Vías en Lofoten

Described by Mårten Blixt in the Lofoten Alpin article in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. There´s a low resloution topo

Described by Mårten Blixt in the Lofoten Alpin article in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. There´s a low resloution topo

SDS on crimps

SDS on crimps

The traverse of the Gimsøy skyline is a fine tour for running/hiking in the summer. Begin via the Storknubben hiking trail then from the Summit continue East along the U-shaped ridges before eventually descending via NW slope of Skjolden. There are a couple of short technical sections which slow things down. Allow a half day for hiking or 3/4 hours for running.

A GPX file and photos available here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4016851045

Classic ice line forming in gully above the road approximately 1km from Sundklakkbrua. Faces the sun so unlikely to be in season from late jan/early feb (i.e when the sun returns). Abalakov desent.

If you know the name, please update.

A great mixed line which stays in season longer than the WI5 to the right.

Directly above the 815/E10 intersection. Steep snow with sections of watefall ice.

Mixed line above Sandvika with many possible variations to the summit. The ice here seems to form slower than the other surrounding routes. Be prepared for classic Lofoten mixed climbing with sections of rock, ice and moss.

There is a GPX and photo of one variation available here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4651430624

Formation below Varden/Anderstinden & above the 815 approximately 3.5km South from Sundklakkbrua. Visible from Henninsvær, forms early & seemingly can stay in condition late into the season (march/early April).

The approach exposes you to avalanche terrain; Caution required. Snowshoes or skis handy.

Start from the underclings

Sit start on flake, traverse low on slopers & finish up left of arête

Dyno from the sloper

Video beta here

Sit start left side roof. Right hand on undercling, left on pinch. Sloper traverse right & finish up with the Moreno dyno

Sit start on flake, dyno to sloper & mantle up

Sit start deep in the cave. Hard to avoid dabbing with pads

Sit start on the left with both hands on the horn. Sloper traverse then mantle up onto the flake

Start up Project Flexmix then continue on the rail into Silly Season

One of, if not the best, lines on the islands. Some beta options-

here

here

Beta here

The impressive rail on the back of the boulder. Open project. Potentially the hardest line on the islands (if it´s even possible).

A broken flake at the start means this route is also now significantly harder.

A broken flake at the start means this route is now significantly harder than listed in the guidebook (6a).

Image here: https://i.redd.it/lsqw8741lj431.jpg

Video beta here: https://youtu.be/egVZYH5lRvY?t=80

Beta here

Beta for the støte på crowd

Image here-

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SDS