Ascensiones en Oceania por Jill

I really enjoyed this climb. Took a few whips on the crux because I misread the beta. Morag had a go and she worked it out and shared her beta and then I got through the crux first go with her tips. The top was pumpy for me but a lot of that was working everything out.

I can do all the moves, next time I have to climb efficiently, remember my beta and manage the pump and it should be doable I think 🤞 good challenge level for me!

Enjoyable, flowy and easy to read (for me). I recommend this to warm up on.

I misread the climb a bit and decided not to pump myself out on the warmup and had a sit, asked for some beta and then sorted it out next go.

I feel like it's definitely harder than the 17 next to it. Might just be cuz it was my first route at pages and humidity was 🥵

New project incoming! I could do all the moves with rest, now I've just got to link them on lead and not pump out at the top 😳

I really enjoyed this climb despite my sketchy mantle at the top.

I wanted to rest before the steepish pumpy bit so I took a sit before charging through. I really need to improve my steep climbing and pump management so that I am not as intimidated every time the angle goes past vertical.

I found out afterwards that a few of my friends "couldn't watch" because I made the mantle look about as desperate as it felt. I know what I did wrong and next time I will move my feet up before rushing to the top and getting stretched out and stranded.

I am sure I can climb it clean now that I know what is what. An exciting climb with fun holds and moves!

Short but interesting. Harder than it looked from the ground but enjoyable.

I got spooked by the distance between bolts for the traversy crux. My friends had just climbed it and warned me that it was a scary committing move in that section so I had a strategic sit to recharge before the move. Thankfully my reach is a tiiiiny bit longer and I managed to find some Jill beta which made the move a bit less committing.

I really liked the sequences on this climb and the feeling of pushing through a bit of fear. Next time I am at Medlow I'll go back for the clean send.

Really enjoyable warm up, the added exposure and little run out at the top to the anchors kept it engaging even though the climbing was really straighforward and comfortable. What a beautiful climb!

I really enjoyed this route, the start was the crux for me because steep != my favourite. The rest was thought provoking, interesting and flowy. I probably should have led it but my tank was feeling empty.

I enjoyed this one, 3 sections had interesting moves/sequence. I watched some friends climb it so no on sight.

A bit tired from yesterday and arms didn't want to commit to the crux move so I had a sit. Felt a bit hard for a 16 but could have been me.

What an adventure! It was a great mixture of thoughtful moves for the first 3 pitches and then headwall glory for the last 3.

Overall the climb was easier than I expected (phew) but I did have an unfortunate lapse in concentration/decision making skills whilst leading P2 and made a sketchy move above the ledge mid pitch. I fell a decent way onto a spikey tree. Sorry tree.

I was a bit shaken up but I managed to pull it together and keep going.

Bunny Bucket was very enjoyable even with a flesh wound Thanks Grace for being my rope wife! Can't wait for our next trip to the Bluies!

Hurray got it this time! So many cool moves and such a striking climb 🥰

Thought provoking, challenging and brought out the full try hard noises. So happy.

Ughhhh foot slipped. But at least I have the beta dialled now for warm up.

I didn't realise how spent I was until I went to toprope this to finish off the session. I felt relatively fresh after the onsight attempt and then I was climbing much sloppier on the top rope finish to clean it.

Such a satisfying first day at Sanctuary!

TR lap for endurance training

I didn't notice any obvious cruxes on this pitch, just smooth and thought provoking moves on interesting holds and feet. Not too tricky, but nice and long and flowy.

Climb number 3 for the day and I was feeling really confident and and comfortable leading.

I kept on thinking, maybe I will take a break before this section and sit on the rope, but I kept climbing and by the time I was in the crux I was committed, I pushed through it and happily clipped the chains for my hardest onsight postpartum. It's hard to not dismiss it as a little soft for a 20 but until it's officially downgraded I'm claiming it

I really liked the mix of balance, technical moves and the bulgey crux. Very enjoyable.

I have been practicing taking rests and intentionally blowing the onsight so that I don't overgrip and let the ego demon pump me out by stubbornly pushing through bad rushed and reckless beta and instead taking rests ahead of a tricky bit to problem solve and climb things smooth and confidently.

It's hard to know that maaaaybe/probably I would have got the onsight if I pushed through but I am happy that I feel like I can now jump on a lead without being sure I will onsight it and taking the pressure off myself.

It's a great headspace breakthrough to separate the fear of failing from the fear of falling. It has made leading so much less scary for me!

Silly stubborn ego I think I was always more scared of failing but my body associated it with falling.

Will be coming back for the red point! I really enjoyed this climb and I think I could have got the Onsight if I had pushed through instead of taking a headspace rest before a crux.

I really enjoyed the moves on this climb. I think I can do all them, it'll be hard to link them together. I do enjoy the harder routes at KP even if it's only on top rope. It's much more fun when it's not ledges, dirt, vegetation and runouts that the easier climbs are often cursed with.

The loose block is spooky so I climbed a bit of Punks in the Gin until I could get back on to the ramp. I could have pulled the move over the roof but when a block moves AND makes a noise, it's a no for me.

This climb was incredibly dirty and in places I could smell the dirt as it covered my face and got in my eyes.

There are definitely some cool moves to be had but overall I'm not keen for a repeat.

I took a strategic rest before the crux move to sort out my beta and then climbed the rest clean.

Next KP sesh it's in the bag for sure, I just couldn't remember the beta and I wanted to practice prioritising getting to the top on lead over always pushing for the clean attempt.

The sun was hitting the wall and right in our eyes so we set up a top rope on footprints and did a quick lap before it got too hot and we had to head home to pick up the kids.

It will be a super pumpy and sustained lead for me but I was happy to get it clean on toprope first go.

Clean on second attempt of the day

Another strategic problem solving rest before the steep move and rest clean. I found this climb pumpy and thrilling. I really like the crux move (once I worked it out and committed)

Clean on second attempt for the day.

Strategic rest before the crux bulge to work out my sequence and not pump out pushing through. The rest clean.

I really enjoy the moves on this climb. Flows nicely.

Warm up

Another pink point lap cuz it's so delightful

Pink point on the second attempt of day

A strategic rest before the crux on the first attempt with the rest clean

Yay started the day strong with a red point

Last climb of the brooyar endurance day with Grace and I think I actually managed this one clean or maybe I am delirious and can't remember, did I even climb it? Ha, that's what happens when we do 9-10 routes in a day and 250m.

Another sloppy finisher lap for endurance

Arms were cooked by this point and I couldn't hold on to much but I think I did 2-3 disgracefully sloppy laps to try and make it to our 250m in a day goal.

Had one false start remembering the moves for the start and then lowered and tried again from the ground and got it clean. I was still so pumped from send me an angel that the rest of the day felt so much harder than usual to hold on, but I was happy to still get this one clean on second.

One second and one top rope lap back to back. Endurance training. I don't believe that there is a grade 17 way direct through that cave... would love to see someone do it, I escaped to the side, no "key undercling" in sight.

Mann I made some bad beta calls on this and pumped myself out epically overgripping in fear and cooked my arms for the rest of the day. It was a very important lesson in not prioritising the onsight and my ego over making it to the top and saving some beans.

I am sure I will climb this next time with way less stress and indecision and be amazed at how differently things can go with some deep breaths and confidence.

It's a cool climb and the top section is amazing! Biggest and steepest jugs I have ever hauled myself up that high off the ground on lead, pumped out of my mind. Will repeat for sure to get the red point. I am glad Kyle A. was at the top on "looking for the sun" to give me a pep talk to get through the last few clips.

I've probably climbed this before but I have no logs and no recollection so I am claiming the onsight.

It's super easy the whole way, only thing to contend with is the exposure and the feeling of being well and truly above your bolts (on mega coral jugs).

Such a fun day out with Grace. My crux was the bolt spacing on the 16 slab on the 8th pitch, a bit heady making delicate moves knowing the fall would be gross.

I should have skipped some bolts on the 18 that I led as the rope drag was pretty bad and there was an excess of bolts for once on Tibro ha!

The 7th pitch was clearly the crux of the whole climb. Looking forward to climbing it again one day and leading the other pitches!

Crux move is a bit spicy for a 14 but it wasn't too stressful for Jayne and I's first trad leads in forever.

I was determined to get the big girl pants on and get back to leading and I was happy to lead this one clean. Not an onsight technically but I definitely didn't remember anything about climbing it in the past.

I didn't bring a yellow cam by accident so protecting the top was a super dodgy overcammed blue which was only providing psychological safety haha. Bring a yellow ha!

I can't remember my own performance on this route, only Grace's whip on my first time belaying with doubles ha! Happy that I'm a fast learner and she got through it. Definitely felt a big sandbagged and I don't remember enjoying it on second.

My jamming technique for this crack size is definitely lacking. I found this MUCH harder than Infinity (19) and I pumped myself out wresting my way to the top. I am in awe of Grace for leading it like a boss and I have a lot to learn about thin hand jams ha!

I really enjoyed this climb (on second haha)

I loooooved this climb so much more than I ever would have expected. I am no expert at Jams but I managed to really feel the thrill of jamming on this climb. The line is so beautiful and it keeps going and giving all the way to the top!

I don't remember exactly where I fell/sat but I know I only had a couple sits to problem solve/rest the pump. Unlike Plume which I lost count of my falls, I found this one flowy, engaging and delightful .