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shares first bolt with "Pepe el Loco" then take right hand line toward tan rock

A short easy pitch to a belay ledge at 12m where the real climbing begins

P1: a groove on the right side leads to the dark featured rock above P2: continue up and right to a small overlap, above this and further right to the second anchor

long grade 20 climbing above shared "Whale Access Pitch"

Named after Kina Taufa. Scamper up to high first bolt on good holds then pass the tufas to a corner system, onto face, into and back out of the dirty black groove, to gain a ledge and belay.

P1. 19 - Start up a series of ledges and bulges tackled direct to belay at cave and ledge. P2. 20 - Head left from belay clipping hidden 2nd RB after 4m. Continue up beautifully coloured pocketed face and finish steeply up crack and pockets to belay at ledge and cave. A 3* pitch. P3. 20 - Head left from belay through small roof into some sharpish rock and precarious moves to small alcove and ledge. Continue up right side past RB to an exciting finish clipping the chains.

Can be linked to make a great 2-pitch or single megapitch route.

Descent: It is possible to abseil/rap off from the top anchors with a 60m rope perfectly centralised with stretch. Use tree at bottom to push yourself into ledge at base if not quite down!

Climb the tufa, go right, then up

An interesting technical start with some big moves followed by a pump-a-thon

Climb the tufa, keeping an eye out for moko (geckos). Veer right, up steep pockets to finish.

Placeholder for new routes access pitch to triangle ledge