Vías en Huaraz

10-12 hours from bergshrund

4-7 hours from camp to summit in good conditions

3-5 hours from bergshrund to summit in good conditions

3-5 hours from the bottom of the face to summit in good conditions.

3-5 hours from the bottom of the face to summit in good conditions.

Western Buttress of the Southwest face. 2-3 day for ascent, 1 day for descent.

6-10 hours from moraine camp in good conditions

5-7 hours from glacier in good condition, 10-12 from moraine camp.

5-7 hours from glacier in good condition, 10-12 from moraine camp.

6-8 hours from glacier camp, 10-12 hours from moraine camp.

8-12 hours from moraine camp in good conditions.

A variant that links the start of the 1985 Route with Cruz Del Sur.

The original and most commonly climbed route on la esfinge. One very long day, or two short days climbing. A good ledge facilitates the two day ascent.

This route was originally graded 6c+, though consensus has downgraded it to 6b with an R rating for poor protection on easier ground in some of the upper pitches

A three-pitch variation to avoid an A3 section of 'Riddle of the Cordillera Blanca'.

Standard descent route

Climbs the rappel route that descends from the col.

20 pitches or so with 2 pitches of 5.11 or more if you end up off route

10-12 hours from the bottom of the face in good conditions.

6-8 hours from moraine camp.

8-12 hours from the bottom of the face in good conditions

10-12 hours from the bottom of the face in good conditions

12-14 hours from the bottom of the face with a possible bivouac on descent. 2-3 days roundtrip from the Pisco moraine camp.

2 days roundtrip from moraine camp to summit and back.

A new route, which leads through the center of the eastern face of Huandoy Norte (6360m).

8-10 hours from the bergshrund, 1-2 days roundtrip from glacier camp.

Northeast Ridge, 2 days round trip from a camp on the glacier to the summit.

Via the southwest slopes. 3-5 hours from moraine camp.

Via the south face. 2-3 days roundtrip from the bottom of the face.

Via the south face. 7-10 hours from the bottom of the face to summit, 12-16 hours roundtrip.

Via the west face. 4-7 hours from moraine camp.

Via the southwest ridge. 1-2 days from moraine camp to summit and return.

4-5 days roundtrip from Huaraz.

4-5 days roundtrip from Huaraz.

3-4 days including approach and descent on the other side.

4-6 days including approach and descent on the other side.

Via the north face. 4-5 days from the bergshrund, plus a day to descent the normal route.

Via the south slopes and the Garganta. 4-7 days roundtrip from the village of Musho depending on acclimatisation.

Via the northwest slopes and the Garganta. 4-7 days roundtrip from Musho depending on acclimatization.

4-7 days roundtrip from Musho depending on acclimatization.

A sustained snow and ice climb, made difficult by complex navigation on the lower glacier and moderate objective hazards presented by multiple serac bands. Start early, the face gets plenty of sun.

5-9 hours from base camp in good conditions.

Via the southeast slopes to east ridge. 5-6 hours from Ishinca base camp.

An alternate entry to the east ridge, accessed from the glacier. Easy snow ramp.

An alternate entry to the east ridge, accessed from the glacier. Easy snow ramp.

An alternate entry to the east ridge, accessed from the glacier. Moderate snow ramp with some rock.

2-3 hours from camp to bottom of face, 8-10 hours from bottom of face to summit.

2 days roundtrip from base camp, 5-7 hours from high camp to summit.

5-6 hours from base camp, 2-3 hours from the toe of the glacier.

6-8 hours from base camp, 3-5 hours from Laguna Ishinca.

Best to conduct this traverse from north to south - the climbing is more interesting and the approach is shorter and less heartbreaking.

Via the northeast face. 5-7 hours from the Ishinca Col

8-10 hours from the camp at the bottom of the face.

2-3 days round trip from Huaraz, 3-5 hours from the camp on slabs past the moraine.

Via the south face. 8-10 hours from the bergshrund.

6-8 hours from the bergshrund.

3-4 days roundtrip from meadow camp.

Via the west face. 2 days roundtrip from the glacier.

Via the southwest and west slopes. 4-5 hours from a camp in the meadow at the head of the Quebrada Cayesh.

2 days roundtrip from the valley floor, 8-10 hours from moraine camp to summit.

2 days roundtrip from Camp 1 at the base of the northwest ridge of Huantsan Norte's bergshrund. Bivouac likely.

A good topo for this route can be found in the Casa de Guias or at Zarela's.

P1 (5.6) - Climb an easy, obvious crack to the end of the rope.

P2 - (5.7) - Continue climbing obvious cracks, traversing left to belay off large block.

P3 - (5.7) - Traverse slightly right then climb onto face with cracks to the notch.

P4 - (5.6) - Perfect finger crack which is easier than appears, then follow the ridge to the right.

P5 - (5.7) - Follow the ridge.

P6 (5.8 R) - A couple of spicey traverse moves lead up higher to an alcove on the ridge.

Descent: Bolted anchors on the Sims-Hanning Route can be seen from the end of the route. 6 rappels.

Easy snow slopes which lead to the summit after completing one of the previous rock routes.

Massive glacial retreat has changed this route significantly and decreased the overall difficulty. As of 2018, the route involves an easy ascent of the glacier to the base of a couloir with 60-70 degree snow/ice. The second pitch is an easy snow slope to the summit, but opting for one of a few possible lines directly up the rock band will add some spice.

5-7 hours from a camp on the glacier plateau.

Approach the south summit and climb the left hand side of the arete, closest to the rock band. Sustained 45 - 60 degree snow leads to the summit. Descend by rappelling the route

Approach the south summit and climb the right side of the arete. Sustained 70 - 75 degree snow and ice leads to the south summit. Descend by rappelling the route.

Climb an initial 200m snow and ice ramp average around 55 degrees with a slightly steeper section at the top. Navigate the flat and featureless glacier to the final ramp leading to the summit.