Vías en Oriental Carpathians para grado seleccionado

Older, pre-current-ethics route, 3 artificial footholds at the start and 1 artificial handhold in the undercling near the top. Try it without them

Start is apparently damaged, route is no longer a UIAA 5.

The entry and first meters of the route are deteriorated due to construction work on a parking lot.

Manufactured bolts, haven't checked the top

Manufactured bolts, haven't checked the top

Initially opened up as a trad linkup of Umbra Muchiei and Traseul Vânătorilor de Munte , this was reequipped as a mixed trad route (currently on spaced up bolts and some old pitons, with plenty of gear opportunities. Described is the classical entrance from Umbra Muchiei, with the Vanatori lower traverse version being easier but far more exposed to rockfall from the routes above.

P1: Common with Umbra Muchiei. Climb a detached boulder and then head on a left-leaning crack (6a+)

P2: Common with Umbra Muchiei. Can be broken in two pitches using the intermediate belay from the Vanatori lower traverse. If doing it in a single pitch, keep an eye on your rope management, since the line traverses more than is visible in the topo. Pitch 2A continues slightly leftward on the widening crack to a human-sized alveole, then heads up over a slight overhang to a grassy ledge that leads rightwards to the intermediate belay from the alternative entrance (5c?). Pitch 2B then traverses leftward again on a flake that leads to a crack, then past an overhang and rightwards again on easy terrain on Vanatori face to a ledge at the base of a chimney.

P3: While Umbra Muchiei heads left directly on the arete, Umbra Vânătorilor climbs straight up on the chimney, then once it ends in a small alcove traverses right to a slightly overhanging offwidth that exits on the arete, near a dead tree. Belay on the left of the tree is part of Umbra Muchiei, and entirely avoided when linking the following pitch with the chimney/offwidth. 6a+

P4: Head on the arete on easy and airily protected ledges to a belay at the base of a large rock fang. 5b

P5: Climb the rock fang on very easy terrain with 1 5b flake until reaching a rap station. Either regroup there and rap on the other side of the flake to where the line joins Vanatori, or be lowered there and belay and then lower your second. 5b

P6: Common with Vanatori. Follow the vertical, then slightly overhanging crack through gorgeous white rock. Short but physical. 6a+, or 5c A0.

P7: Common with Vanatori. Follow a right-arcing crack (6c or A1) and traverse right into a dihedral (5c/6a) before exiting to the final belay. From there, there are 10 more meters of scrambling to the cross. 6c, or 6a A0

A well protected route (bolted/natural features belays, occasional bolts on the route itself, the original aid pitons still in place) following a highly aesthetic crack system.

P1: After an initial overhang, traverse to the left until reaching a ledge, then follow a dihedral to the belay (a comfortable ledge with 2 trees)

P2: Head up on a dihedral then traverse left on a small arete, continuing until the base of a 20m long hand-sized crack. At the metal pipe, traverse right, horizontally, until reaching easier ground. Bolted belay.

P3: Traverse/downclimb slightly to the right and follow a slightly overhanging, and then vertical crack on more sustained terrain than P2. Bolted belay.

70m rope required

Access is either from the narrow ledge that leads you to Sector B or by going left after climbing the Sarpele route from Sector A

Route renovated in march 2023.

Pitch 1: Head up on easy slab towards the fir tree, then at some tree roots take right, towards a very red portion of the rock. Follow a slightly overhanging crack up(it's probably the most interesting portion of the route, cool moves and a rock not very often found in the area) and exit right then slightly left to the base of a wide dihedral where the bolted belay station is. 50m, 7-/7 UIAA

Pitch 2: Follow the dihedral upwards. Slightly more airily bolted/pitoned, but easy terrain and good possibilities for larger mobiles. After ~25 meters, you'll see an old 3-piton belay station on a ledge to the right. The bolted belay is 10 meters higher, so continue following the dihedral up and traverse to the left under a roof to the bolted belay. 30m, 5 UIAA

Pitch 3: Follow a crack upwards (crux of the route, 7/7+ UIAA, can be aided on medium-large nuts/small to medium friends) and reach a ridge. Follow it, and belay at a tree. 40m, 7/7+ UIAA

Fully repaired and re-bolted, the old pitons are still in place though.

Approach:

From the Ecolog hut follow the red triangle marked hiking trail to the Șugăului rock until you get to a wooden pavilion and continue further for 3-5 minutes and then take a right at an over hanged boulder that has the red triangle until you get to the base of the wall where you will see the start of the route marked with a big white square painted on the rock.

Retreat:

Follow the ridge to the left passing the boulder, approx. 30m. There are some spits for safety. It will get you back to the red triangle hiking trail where you can take a left or right which will get you to the Ecolog hut in approx 30 minutes.

Classic route, now fully bolted.

Romanian alpine climbing grade: 4B