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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Bersuc Mila Camelia Langa Chase Aaron Miller Peterarwin Alex Ioana Felea Bakó Ádám Virgil Litan Terenc Francois None
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Table of contents
- 1.
Cheile Turzii
592 in Crag
-
1.1.
Peretele Cald 84 in Sector
- 1.1.1. Peretele Marac 3 in Sector
- 1.1.2. Timpuri Noi / Poligonul Timpuri Noi 11 in Sector
- 1.1.3. Teatru de păpuși 8 in Sector
- 1.1.4. La Răcoare / Sector A 24 in Sector
- 1.1.5. Sector B 4 in Sector
- 1.1.6. Sector C 2 in Sector
- 1.1.7. Băieţi Buni 30 in Sector
- 1.2. Grota Ercsei 5 in Sector
- 1.3. Turnul lui Mihai Borş / Turnul Bors 2 in Sector
- 1.4. Pereții Alghinelor 4 in Sector
- 1.5. Podul II 14 in Sector
- 1.6. ATA 2009 12 in Sector
- 1.7. Turnul Galben 18 in Sector
- 1.8. La Circ și Papagal 27 in Sector
- 1.9. Peretele Pripoanelor 32 in Sector
- 1.10. Peretele Caprelor şi Erasmus Nyárády 8 in Sector
- 1.11. Izolare 7 in Sector
- 1.12. Peretele Uriaş 39 in Sector
- 1.13. Peretele Porumbeilor 11 in Sector
- 1.14. Poligon 12 in Sector
- 1.15. Grota lui Hili 1 in Sector
- 1.16. Turnul Ascuţit 4 in Sector
- 1.17. Peretele Ciorilor 2 in Sector
- 1.18. Poligonul Unguresc 17 in Sector
- 1.19. Creasta Cocoșului - Școala clujeană 4 in Sector
- 1.20. Pestera Călăştur 3 in Sector
- 1.21. Turnul Despărţitor 18 in Sector
- 1.22. Peretele Aerian 44 in Sector
- 1.23. Cetăţeaua Mică 19 in Sector
- 1.24. Narcisa 7 in Sector
- 1.25. Zona Fisuri 9 in Sector
- 1.26. Zona Scoruş 6 in Sector
- 1.27. Zona Gabor Feri 15 in Sector
- 1.28. Zona Moara Petridului 6 in Sector
- 1.29. Cetăţeaua Mare 11 in Sector
- 1.30. Colţul Sanşil 11 in Sector
-
1.31.
Colțul Crăpat 32 in Sector
- 1.31.1. ATA 2007 9 in Sector
- 1.31.2. Sectorul nordic 14 in Sector
- 1.31.3. Sectorul sudic 9 in Sector
- 1.32. Colţul Puşcariu 4 in Sector
- 1.33. Peretele Suurime 4 in Sector
- 1.34. Colțul Rotunjit 5 in Sector
-
1.35.
Poliţele lui Bieltz 23 in Sector
- 1.35.1. Mario 13 in Sector
- 1.35.2. Emigrant 3 in Sector
- 1.35.3. Produse Bio 7 in Sector
- 1.36. Peretele Vulturilor 3 in Sector
- 1.37. Peştera Ungurească 46 in Crag
- 1.38. Peretele Lateral 5 in Sector
- 1.39. Peretele din Belvedere 18 in Sector
-
1.1.
Peretele Cald 84 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Cheile Turzii 592 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.565119, 23.680582
Take DN75 road to Campeni. 7 km after passing Mihai Viteazu turn right towards Cheia village. Pass through the village and continue until you’ll see the gorge (east entrance).
Take secondary road and drive towards Petreștii de Jos village. A short walk from the village will take you to the west entrance of Turzii Gorge.
Resumen
The diversity of high and steep walls, sharp ridges, rock towers and caves makes it one of the most beautiful and impressive gorge in Romania.
descripción
The canyon, formed through the erosion of the Jurassic limestone of the mountain, is 2 900 m long and the walls have heights reaching 300 m The total surface of the canyon is of 324 ha. From climbing point of view this place is a paradise, being one of the most significant sites in Romania. Entry is free. There is no longer a tax to enter the gorges.
restricciones
From Cluj-Napoca (airport available) take E60 road to Turda (around 25 km). From Turda there are two possibilities:
Acceso
10-40 minutes from the carpark - depending on Sector
|
1.1. Peretele Cald 84 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.566238, 23.687906
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3 |
★★ Hornul Ascuns
Approach: The route starts on a large ledge (on the right, next to the sport routes of Timpuri Noi sector). You will see an anchor at the base of the route.
Descent: You can abseil over the route(not recommended due to possible rockfalls) or continue up to the plateau and then follow the tourist trail. PA: Octavian Bortoş, Călin M Călin & Charly Silex, 1979 | 4A | 93m, 3 | |||||
5 | Ancuţa | 3B | 100m, 3 | |||||
|
1.1.1. Peretele Marac 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada clásica y Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.565817, 23.686018
descripción
The furtest sector of the Peretele Cald area. Not very frequented. The approach is a bit long with some loose rocks on the final area before reaching the base of the wall. 2 trad routes can be found:Fisura Marac and Hornul Marac.
Acceso
Climb up the tourist trail marked with the red dot. Once you exit the forest,leave the tourist trail and head left on a visble path. If you follow it you will reach the Timpuri Noi sector. Continue left at the base of the wall. The path will end at the base of some shrubbery. At this point the Marac sector is visible to your right. You will be able to recognise the crack feature that starts about 20 m above. Start climbing the grassy slope, heading towards the base of the crack. You will reach a metal wire on the last 5 m before the start of the routes.
Descenso
Both routes exit on the plateau above in the proximity of the tourist trail which youbcan follow back down.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fisura Marac | 6 3A | 59m, 2 | |||
2 | Hornul Marac | 6 4A | 58m, 2 | |||
3 |
Sindromul Delia
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024 | 8- | 27m, 7 |
1.1.2. Timpuri Noi 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.565480, 23.685723
descripción
Really nice winter crag. In a sunny day 5 degrees are perfect in order to climb here, with sun all day. Whear a helmet as sometimes rocks are falling (might happen even just from stronger winds) Vertical routes, nice climbing and a distanced bolts.
Acceso
Approach the gorges with your car from Sandulesti. Then hike on the red circle trail until you find a cairn where the red circle goes to the right, but you have to follow the path to the left. After going straight ahead for about 5-10 mins you will reach the sector "La Racoare"/Sector A from "Peretele Cald". Continue a bit down on the same path and you will reach the sector Note: right before getting onto the red circle trail you will pass over a gate-chain thing trough some kind of yard with a lot of dogs, but all of them are friendly, altho they bark a lot.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Bălălău | 8 | 91m, 2, 14 | |||||
2 |
Perfect
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024 | 7- | 130m, 5 | |||||
3 | ★★ Maricica | 7+ | 43m | |||||
4 | Milică | 9+/10- | 9m | |||||
5 | ★★ Stan | 6+ | 28m | |||||
6 | ★★ Bubu | 6+ | 27m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 | ★★ Luca | 7- | 25m | |||||
8 | ★★★ Văru' Maftei / Văru' Maftei | 8 | 23m | |||||
9 | ★★★ Verginica | 8-/8 | 23m | |||||
10 | ★★ Stere | 8- | 22m | |||||
11 | ★★ Tanta | 7+ | 22m |
1.1.3. Teatru de păpuși 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ușor superior
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024 | 8- | 12m | |||
2 |
Barbie boy
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024 | 8- | 11m | |||
3 |
Matrioska
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024 | 8+ | 13m | |||
4 |
Teatru de păpuși
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024 | 6+ | 12m | |||
5 |
Chucky
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024 | 7+ | 9m | |||
6 |
Dolly
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024 | 7- | 8m | |||
7 |
Păpușa de cârpe
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024 | 8+ | 11m | |||
8 |
Păpușoi
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024 | 6+ | 10m |
1.1.4. La Răcoare 24 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Zeghe
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 5+ | 19m, 5 | |||
2 |
Ani grei
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 8- | 20m | |||
3 |
★ Decretul 6
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 7- | 23m, 5 | |||
4 |
★★ Gâde
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 7- | 23m | |||
5 |
★ Canal
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 7 | 20m | |||
6 |
★★ Miss Bulău
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 7/7+ | 21m | |||
7 |
★ La Răcoare
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 6+ | 23m | |||
8 |
Acuzatul
Similar to the route right to it, Poarta Alba - a nice route with big holds. Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 7- | 29m, 8 | |||
9 |
★ Poarta Albă
An interesting route, with big holds. The crux is at around the 7th bolt. Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 7- | 29m, 8 | |||
10 |
Chilia Veche
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 6+ | 15m, 4 | |||
11 |
Ţandăra
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 4+ | 14m | |||
12 |
Ţandăra extensie
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 8 | 26m | |||
13 |
Maromet
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 4 | 13m | |||
14 |
★★ Maromet extensie
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 8- | 27m | |||
15 |
Fals şi uz de fals
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 4+ | 14m | |||
16 |
★★ Fals și uz de fals extensie
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 8- | 23m | |||
17 |
Hope of deliverance
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 4+ | 14m | |||
18 |
Hope of deliverance extensie
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 7+/8- | 25m | |||
19 |
Ocnele mari
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 4 | 11m | |||
20 |
Ocnele mari extensie
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 5+ | 23m | |||
21 |
Târgşor
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 7- | 12m, 2 | |||
22 |
★★ Dreptate cu briceagu'
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 8- | 11m | |||
23 |
Mititica
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 4 | 10m | |||
24 |
Una la o sută
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024 | 7 | 20m |
1.1.5. Sector B 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unora le place jazzul
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 7 | 7m | |||
2 |
Hiene perverse
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 7 | 9m | |||
3 |
Leu' lesios
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 7- | 10m | |||
4 |
Pipi Șoseta
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 5+ | 3 |
1.1.6. Sector C 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Foofa
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 7 | 9m | |||
2 |
★★ Alone in the bush
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 7- | 8m |
1.1.7. Băieţi Buni 30 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Hornul Vulturilor | 1B | 3 | |||
2 | ★ Ilie Măcelaru | 7 | 24m | |||
3 | ★ Pulbere fină | 7- | 23m | |||
4 | Mii de draci | 8-/8 | 41m | |||
5 | ★★ Marele Est | 8- | 41m, 2 | |||
6 | The rest of | 6+ | 39m | |||
7 | Variațiuni | 6+ | 39m | |||
8 | ★ Mitică | 7- | 10m | |||
9 | ★★ Show gratuit | 8- | 9m | |||
10 | ★★★ Băieţi Buni | 7 | 46m, 2 | |||
11 | ★★ Traseu | 7 | 21m | |||
12 | ★★ De Pomană | 7- | 25m | |||
13 | ★★ Big dick toy | 7- | 52m | |||
14 | ★ Rich Bitch | 7- | 50m | |||
15 | ★ Sirena | 6+/7- | 50m | |||
16 | The Rise of Sodom | 7 | 50m | |||
17 | ★ Millennium | 7- | 45m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Mă-ta | 6+ | 32m | |||
19 | ★ Parfum de onanie | 7- | 12m | |||
20 | Tuta | 8- | 33m | |||
21 | Mioara brună | 8- | 36m | |||
22 | ★★★ Breaker | 8- | 37m, 2, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Mitoman de carieră | 7- | 36m | |||
24 | Speri Mata | 9 | 32m | |||
25 | Curara | 8- | 17m | |||
26 | Piaza rea | 8- | 17m | |||
27 | Progeria | 8- | 17m | |||
28 | Tetania | 8- | 13m | |||
29 | Cheloo | 8 | 13m | |||
30 | Societatea | 7 | 10m |
1.2. Grota Ercsei 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.565898, 23.684874
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Traseu 1
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2022 | |||||
2 |
Traseu 2
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2022 | |||||
3 |
Traseu 3
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2022 | 7 | ||||
4 |
★ Also sprach Zacusca
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2022 PAL: Alex, 9 Nov 2023 | 9- | 10m, 2 | |||
5 |
Traseu 5
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2022 |
1.3. Turnul lui Mihai Borş 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada clásica
Lat / Long: 46.565203, 23.683954
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Creasta lui Mihai Borş | 6- A1 4A | 5 | |||
2 | Regina Ana | 2 |
1.4. Pereții Alghinelor 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada clásica
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La Tisă | 6- A1 4B | 4 | |||
2 | Creasta Sură | 6+ 3B | 3 | |||
3 | ★★★ Mişi Szalma | 8 A1 5A | 150m, 4 | |||
4 | Peretele Alghinelor | 4A | 3 |
1.5. Podul II 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.564114, 23.682951
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 22 - 25 Septembrie | 7-/7 | 9m | |||
2 | Studio '69 | 6+ | 10m | |||
3 | 20 cm. | 5+ | 10m | |||
4 | De Doi Bani | 5+ | 13m | |||
5 | Oo | 4 | 12m | |||
6 | Maxim | 4- | 12m | |||
7 | Fără Număr | 4- | 12m | |||
8 |
Remat
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 6 | 12m | |||
9 |
Javre
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 6 | 12m | |||
10 |
Tumba
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 6- | 12m | |||
11 |
★★★ Umor grotesc
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 5+ | 12m | |||
12 |
Racla
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 6+ | 12m | |||
13 |
Negru de fum
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 7-/7 | 12m | |||
14 |
★★★ Zâna nebună
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 5- | 12m |
1.6. ATA 2009 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.564520, 23.682196
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Metabo | 7 | 20m | |||
2 | Bosch | 7 | 20m | |||
3 | Machita | 6 | 20m | |||
4 | Lalena | 8 | 14m | |||
5 | Mistreated | 7+ | 14m | |||
6 | First and Only | 8- | 38m | |||
7 | First Love | 8- | 24m | |||
8 | Moale'n Coccis | 7 | 25m | |||
9 | ★★ Puls | 6+ | 23m | |||
10 | Temperatură | 7 | 19m | |||
11 | Harap Alb | 6+ | 18m | |||
12 | Prichindel | 3 | 11m |
1.7. Turnul Galben 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y otros estilos
Lat / Long: 46.564595, 23.681261
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Omega
PA: R. Oprea & V. Trifan, 2010 | 7 | 26m | |||
2 |
Lulu
PA: Ilies Adrian & N. Adorjan, 1998 | 6 | 20m | |||
3 |
Regina
PA: Ilies Adrian & N. Adorjan | 8- | 20m | |||
4 |
Regele Carol I
PA: Chifa Adrian, 1996 | 6+ | 15m | |||
5 | ★ Manșa de larnă - Variantă | 5+ | 15m | |||
6 | ★★ Manșa de larnă / Winter toprope | 5+ | 15m | |||
7 |
Red Hot
PA: Crisan Romica & P. Calin, 1996 | 8+ | 15m | |||
8 |
Chili Pampers
PA: Popa Calin, 2002 | 8+/9- | 15m | |||
9 |
Turnul Galben
Advertencia Roca: Danger of rockfalls PA: Iorga Silvius & K. Janos, 1985 | 8- A1 | 220m, 6 | |||
10 |
Lassie
PA: Török Janos, 1989 | 10- | 10m | |||
11 |
Regele Ferdinand
PA: Chifa Adrian, 2000 | 6- | 20m | |||
12 |
★★ Coroana
PA: Chifa Adrian, 1996 | 5+ | 20m | |||
13 |
Regenta
PA: Chifa Adrian, 2000 | 6- | 20m | |||
14 | Regina Maria (Ra) | 5 | 30m | |||
15 |
★★ Ingrid
PA: Iorga Silvius, 2001 | 4 | 20m | |||
16 |
SIS
PA: Iorga Silvius, 2001 | 6 | 20m | |||
17 |
Hilti
PA: C. Popa | 63m | ||||
18 |
July
3rd pitch for Hilti. | A1+ | 28m |
1.8. La Circ și Papagal 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.564044, 23.681330
descripción
10 - 20 m high wall adjacent to touristic path.
Acceso
15 minutes from the carpark
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Circ | 5 | 11m | |||
2 | ★★ Manșa ucide | 4 | 11m | |||
3 | ★★ Greața | 4 | 12m | |||
4 | ★ Fetiș | 4 | 12m | |||
5 | ★★ Clovnul trist | 4 | 13m | |||
6 | ★★ One by one | 4 | 13m | |||
7 | ★ Șezlong | 6- | 13m | |||
8 | Jmecher prost | 6+ | 12m | |||
9 | ★★ Felină obosită | 6 | 12m | |||
10 | Muza moale | 7- | 13m | |||
11 | Secera | 5 | 15m | |||
12 | ★★ Mokus | 5+ | 10m | |||
13 | ★★ Mokus moha | 4 | 11m | |||
14 | ★ Două într-unu | 4+ | 18m | |||
15 | ★★ Varianta | 5 | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Papagal în serie | 4 | 19m | |||
17 | Buba | 6- | 19m | |||
18 | P.C. | 6 | 22m | |||
19 | ★★ Dildo | 6 | 22m | |||
20 | ★★ Papagal | 5 | 15m | |||
21 | ★★ Pinochio | 6+ | 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Gepeto | 6+ | 20m | |||
23 | Figaro | 7 | 20m | |||
24 | Nefeli | 8 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★ Beri-beri | 6+ | 20m | |||
26 | Rata | 6- | 20m | |||
27 | F.N / F.N. | 5-/5 | 20m |
1.9. Peretele Pripoanelor 32 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Camembert | 7 | 12m | |||
2 | Sajt | 7 | 12m | |||
3 | Iguana | 6+ | 21m | |||
4 | Greuceanu | 7- | 16m | |||
5 | Varan | 8- | 19m | |||
6 | Batman | 9+ | 17m | |||
7 | Un Creier în Minus | 7+/8- | 45m | |||
8 |
Ortacul / Memorial Ilie Humiţă
Equip: János Török & Adorján Nagy, 2010 | 8+ | 2 | |||
9 |
Lélek Vesztő
Equip: András Sárközy & Tirging Kioks, 1988 | 8+ | 71m, 3, 10 | |||
10 | Lopakodó / Hoţie | 8- | 25m | |||
11 |
★★★ Pompidou
Equip: János Török & Ovidiu Cățănaș, 2009 | 6+ | 25m, 7 | |||
12 | Patagonia | 8- | 2 | |||
13 | ★★★ Înainte să adorm | 7- | 23m, 7 | |||
14 | Priponul Mare | 6+ 4A | 3 | |||
15 | ★★★ Adiere | 7- | 26m, 9 | |||
16 | Ciklon | 9-/9 | 3 | |||
17 | Hurikan | 8 | 3 | |||
18 |
Labirint
Equip: Gheorghe Pop & Csaba Kiss, 1987 Mant: Nicolae Budeancă, 2014 | 7+ | 72m, 3 | |||
19 | Vânt | 8-/8 | 19m | |||
20 | Foitaş | 8-/8 | 20m | |||
21 | Kashmir | 20m | ||||
22 | Sictir | 8- | 2 | |||
23 | Speranța | 6- | ||||
24 | Ignoranța | 7- | 7 | |||
25 | Vidraru' | 6+ | ||||
26 |
Teodora
Equip: Marius Morar, 2015 | 7 | ||||
27 | Alexandra | 7 | 52m | |||
28 | Ficatu Praf | 7- | 51m | |||
29 |
Tajsz
Equip: Csaba Kiss, 1988 | 8+ | 2 | |||
30 | Între Pripoane I | 6+ A1 3A | 2 | |||
31 | Între Pripoane II | 7- A1 4B | 2 | |||
32 | Priponul Mic | 7 A1 3A | 2 |
1.10. Peretele Caprelor şi Erasmus Nyárády 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada clásica
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Asta la Vista | 8- | 3 | |||
2 | Oxigen | 8- | 22m | |||
3 | Peretele Caprelor | 6+ A1 4A | 2 | |||
4 | Quasimodo | 5+ | 2 | |||
5 | Erasmus Nyárády | 6 A0 4B | 3 | |||
6 | Iedera | 7 | 2 | |||
7 | Acvila | 7 | 2 | |||
8 | Mosquito | 7+ | 2 |
1.11. Izolare 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Piesa 1 | 5 | 18m | |||
2 | Piesa 2 | 6+ | 20m | |||
3 | Piesa 3 | 7 | 20m | |||
4 | Piesa 4 | 18m | ||||
5 | Piesa 5 | 6- | 27m | |||
6 | Piesa 6 | 5+ | 26m | |||
7 | Piesa 7 | 5 | 26m |
1.12. Peretele Uriaş 39 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada artificial
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Zombi | 8 | 17m | |||||
2 | Quo Vadis | 5 - 7 A1 5B | 6 | |||||
3 | Ilegal | 7+ | 5 | |||||
4 | ★★★ Vigh Tibor | 8- A1 5B | 8 | |||||
5 | Manşa Lungă | 7- | 29m | |||||
6 | ATA 2002 | 7- | 23m | |||||
7 |
★★ Madona Neagră
PA: Octavian Brătilă & Silvius Iorga, 1984 | A1 6A | 280m, 8 | |||||
8 | Ave Caesar | 6 | 25m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Memorial Jenci Bacsi
6A Romanian, UIAA 7/5A1 | 7 | 350m, 9 | |||||
10 | Calea Durerii | 7+/8- | 5 | |||||
11 | Vaja con Dios / Memorial Cristi Sândean | 8 | 4 | |||||
12 | Ave Maria | 6+/7- A1 6B | 8 | |||||
13 | Omide | 7 | 23m | |||||
14 | Tovarăşilor mei, pitpalacii | 7- | 26m | |||||
15 | Dark Web | 7/7+ | 30m | |||||
16 | Balta Cotită | A2 | 10m | |||||
17 | ATA 2000 | 7 | 25m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Bulinel | 8+ | 10 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 | ★★★ Pisi | 6 | 12m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Jane Doe | 6- | 12m | |||||
21 | Popeye | 6 | 12m | |||||
22 | ★★★ Bluto | 7- | 12m | |||||
23 | Olive | 6 | 12m | |||||
24 | Calvaria | 6 A1+ 6B | 9 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
25 | ★★ Demolatorul | 7 | 14m | |||||
26 | Fosula | 7+ | 14m | |||||
27 | ★★★ Marmota | 7 | 14m | |||||
28 | ★★★ Miau Miau | 6 | 14m | |||||
29 | Hell's balls | 9- A1 | 9 | |||||
30 |
Fight for Life
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2009 | 8 A1 | 160m, 5 | |||||
31 | Premiera '85 | 2 | ||||||
32 | Troia | 6+ | 12m | |||||
33 | ★★★ 22 | 6- | 12m | |||||
34 | Kare | 6 | 12m | |||||
35 | Picătura Chinezească | 6+ | 13m | |||||
36 | Phoenixul de Gheaţă | 8- | 2 | |||||
37 | Bălăurici | 6 | 20m | |||||
38 | Jgheabului | 6 | 2 | |||||
39 | Rocks | 7 | 18m |
1.13. Peretele Porumbeilor 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada artificial
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Go-rilla | 7- | 29m, 9 | |||
2 | Go Hard Go Rock | 7 | 31m, 10 | |||
3 | Go-Gosch | 7+ | 42m, 14 | |||
4 | Go-Start | 8- | 42m, 10 | |||
5 | Gorgonzola cu nuci | 48m, 13 | ||||
6 | Gonoree și ciuperci | 6- | 33m | |||
7 | Diedrul Porumbeilor | 7+ A1 5B | 5 | |||
8 | Gomora | A1+ | 2 | |||
9 | Golander | 9-/9 | 5 | |||
10 | ★★ Peretele Porumbeilor | 8- A1 5A | 200m, 4 | |||
11 | Peretele Porumbeilor - varianta directă | 8- A1 5A | 4 |
1.14. Poligon 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bavarezelor | 6+ | 2 | |||
2 | Echos | 7+ | 34m | |||
3 | Extazia | 7+/8- | 35m | |||
4 |
Hysteria
chipped holds PA: | 8+ | 33m | |||
5 | ★★ Fantasia | 8- | 40m | |||
6 | Jerry | 7 | ||||
7 | Tom | 7-/7 | 32m | |||
8 | Hoţ de Timp | 7+ | 26m | |||
9 | Colibri | 7+ | 26m | |||
10 | Căruţa Dracului | 6+ | 34m | |||
11 | Cei 7 Samurai | 6 | 33m | |||
12 | Hocus Pocus | 5+ | 28m |
1.15. Grota lui Hili 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Vía ferrata
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sky Fly / Hiliodul | C | 350m, 4 |
1.16. Turnul Ascuţit 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada clásica, Escalada artificial y Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Solidaritatea | 5A | 6 | |||
2 | Imaginaţie | A2+ | 40m | |||
3 | Zoli Ur | 8 | 2 | |||
4 | ★★★ Turnul Ascuţit | 7- A1 5A | 250m, 6 |
1.17. Peretele Ciorilor 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada artificial y Escalada clásica
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Surplomba Prieteniei | A1+ | 15m | |||
2 | Judecata de Apoi | 7- 5B | 6 |
1.18. Poligonul Unguresc 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Zile Negre | 7 | ||||
2 | Nopți albe | 7- | ||||
3 | Avînt prin cuvînt | 6 | ||||
4 | Barát | 5 | ||||
5 | Vremuri și vremuri | 7 | ||||
6 | Lopățelu' | 5 | ||||
7 | Scar | 6 | ||||
8 | Urechelnița | 7- | ||||
9 | Moștenirea | 9+ | ||||
10 | Borzos | 7- | ||||
11 | Baba | 4- | ||||
12 | Bolond | 8+/9- | ||||
13 | Anonimus | 7- | 16m | |||
14 | Hastanc / Burtă | 8+ | 15m | |||
15 | Négy Muskétás / Patru Muschetari | 8- | 15m | |||
16 | ★★★ Şaman | 7 | 14m | |||
17 | Mâncătorii de Ziduri | 7+ | 8m |
1.19. Creasta Cocoșului - Școala clujeană 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Creasta Cocoșului | 5 3A | 3 | |||
2 | Şcoala Clujeană | 5 | 20m | |||
3 | Şcoala Clujeană - Variantă | 6+ | 21m | |||
4 | Şcoala Clujeană - Variantă 2 | 5 | 21m |
1.20. Pestera Călăştur 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Á la Grec | 9+ | 15m | |||
2 | Attikis | 8- | 15m | |||
3 | Rodon | 7+ | 15m |
1.21. Turnul Despărţitor 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Clipstick on top | 7- | 28m | |||
2 | ★★★ Zygy | 7 | 29m | |||
3 | Zeit | 8-/8 | 28m, 8 | |||
4 |
★★★ Cărăbuș de M.A.I
Equip: Nicolae Bundeancă, 2022 | 7 | 29m | |||
5 | Creator de migrene | 8 | 24m | |||
6 | ★ AC | 6+ | 13m | |||
7 | Uno | 6+ | 13m | |||
8 | Fulger | 8 | 12m | |||
9 | ★★★ Dușmanov | 9- | 23m | |||
10 | DC | 7+ | 17m | |||
11 | Timişoreana | 8 | 24m | |||
12 | ★★ Rolling Stones | 7 | 24m, 7 | |||
13 | Tecnica | 6 | 13m, 4 | |||
14 | Long way... | 9 | 16m | |||
15 | ...to the top | 8+ | 16m | |||
16 | Mămăliga | 7- | 15m | |||
17 | Pink Witch | 8- | 15m | |||
18 | Ciufulina | 7 | 16m |
1.22. Peretele Aerian 44 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.567335, 23.675326
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Sushi | 7 | 21m, 8 | |||
2 | ★★ Bizkit | 7 | 23m | |||
3 | ★ Comet | 6+ | 23m | |||
4 | Take | 6 | 24m | |||
5 | ★★ S-o cum? | 8+ | ||||
6 | Sorin | 8+/9- | ||||
7 | Alex | 8 | 27m | |||
8 | Tentaţia | 7 | ||||
9 | Revelaţia | 10 | ||||
10 | Drumul lui Cuc | 8+ | 39m | |||
11 | Abandon | 7 | ||||
12 | French free | 9- | ||||
13 |
★★★ Prieteniei
PA: N. Giurgiu & S. Podar, 1995 | 6+ | 45m, 2 | |||
14 | Palermo | |||||
15 | Vendetta | 8- | ||||
16 | ★★ LM | 7- | 50m, 2 | |||
17 | ★★ Trio | 7 | 52m | |||
18 |
★ Bere virtuală
Traseul porneşte în dreapta de Trio, îl intersecteză sub cea de a doua surplombă şi continua spre stânga, iar Trio spre dreapta. | 7/7+ | 52m | |||
19 | Zburătorul | 6+ A1 3A | 2 | |||
20 | Zburătorul direct | |||||
21 |
★★ Meteor
PA: Adrian Munteanu & Constantin Stoian, 2003 | 7- | 50m, 2 | |||
22 |
★ Spiderman
slabby | 8+ | ||||
23 | Neterminat | 6+ | 50m | |||
24 |
Nervasta
Equip: Mitrut | 8+/9- | 15m | |||
25 | Masa Tăcerii | 9+/10- | ||||
26 | Milgamma | |||||
27 | Alanerv | 9+/10- | ||||
28 | Garofiţei | 8- A1 3B | 2 | |||
29 |
Asteroid
PA: Adrian Munteanu, 2003 | 8- | 57m, 2 | |||
30 | Sebulba | 7- | 30m, 10 | |||
31 | Cirus | 7+ | 2 | |||
32 | Mariquita | 8- | ||||
33 | Hirax | 9 | 20m | |||
34 | Traseul Dan Pulea | |||||
35 | Masai | 7+ | 35m | |||
36 | Eden | 7 | 3 | |||
37 | Fuiaş | 6 | 45m | |||
38 | ★★ Crescendo | 7 | 60m, 2, 9 | |||
39 | Undeva | 6 | 15m | |||
40 | Cândva | 4+ | 15m | |||
41 | Altcândva | 7- | 15m, 4 | |||
42 | Altceva | 7+ | 12m | |||
43 | Nimic | |||||
44 | Ceva | 7+ | 11m |
1.23. Cetăţeaua Mică 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada artificial
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Miscu | 7+ | 29m | |||
2 | Colţul Vestic | 6+ A1 3A | 69m, 2 | |||
3 | Eternal Flame | 8- | 25m | |||
4 | ★★ Stone Love | 7- | 24m | |||
5 | Sconx | 8- | 29m | |||
6 | ★ Pasărea Polară | 6 | 29m | |||
7 | ★★ Pepa | 7 | 35m | |||
8 | Lizuca | 6+ | 11m | |||
9 | Lizuca - variantă | 8- | 11m | |||
10 | Patrocle | A2 | 20m | |||
11 | ★★ Şcoala Turdeană | 6- A0 3A | 130m, 3 | |||
12 | Godzilla | 7- | 16m | |||
13 | Cultural '07 | 7 | ||||
14 | Free Zone | 6 | 30m | |||
15 | One | 9 | 22m | |||
16 | Creasta Frumoasă | 7 A1 3B | 79m, 3 | |||
17 | Beautiful Day | 7 | 31m | |||
18 | ★★ Semper Fidelis | 7 | 31m | |||
19 | Lisa | 6+ | 31m |
1.24. Narcisa 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Muşăţăl | 5+ | 31m | |||
2 | Rasa | 5+ | 31m | |||
3 | Bulbuci | 5 | 30m | |||
4 | Ploşniţa | 6- | 30m | |||
5 | Narcisa | 7 | 30m | |||
6 | Floarea Soarelui | 7 | 30m | |||
7 | Deep Water Soloing | 6- | 43m |
1.25. Zona Fisuri 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Krizza | 7 | 27m | |||
2 | ★★★ Fisura cu Nuci | 7 | 26m | |||
3 | ★★ Sud America | 7- | 26m | |||
4 | Hevia | 7+ | 27m | |||
5 | Krimson | 7+/8- | 24m | |||
6 | Metronom | 8/8+ | 30m | |||
7 | Czici | 6 | 24m | |||
8 | Traverseu | 7- | 37m | |||
9 | Biţi | 6- | 25m |
1.26. Zona Scoruş 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada clásica y Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.566799, 23.673337
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fisura Scoruş | 6- A1 4A | 95m, 3 | |||
2 | Repedes Nyom | 7+ 4B | 21m, 2 | |||
3 | Brânele de Piatră | 8- A1 4B | 4 | |||
4 | Hullámvasút / Montagne russe | 8+ | 23m | |||
5 | Hexoral | 10 | 17m | |||
6 | Peretele Scoruş | 9- A1 4A | 3 |
1.27. Zona Gabor Feri 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Concurs | 5- A0 2A | 51m, 2 | |||||
2 | Recurs | 6 | 27m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 | For Friends | 7+ | 45m | |||||
4 | Mickey Mouse | 8+ | 25m | |||||
5 | Krampus | 7+ | 25m | |||||
6 | Rites | 8- | 45m | |||||
7 |
Energhya
L1 ~ 20m Equip: A. Major & F. Vulturar | 7+ | 2 | |||||
8 | Fisura Strâmbă | 6+ | 2 | |||||
9 | Boglárka | 7 | 50m | |||||
10 | ★ Manuela | 6+/7- | 25m | |||||
11 | Gábor Feri | 6- 3B | 3 | |||||
12 | Kirándulás | 7- | 22m | |||||
13 | Mămăruţăpisi | 7+ | 23m | |||||
14 | Tres Dificiles | 8- | 21m | |||||
15 | ★★ Team Spirit | 7+ | 25m |
1.28. Zona Moara Petridului 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Shere Khan | 7- | 15m | |||
2 | Kaa | 6 | 15m | |||
3 | ★★ Baloo | 5 | 15m | |||
4 | M. S. '98 | 7 | 12m | |||
5 | New Age | 8- | 11m | |||
6 | Baghera | 7- | 15m |
1.29. Cetăţeaua Mare 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica
Lat / Long: 46.566343, 23.672677
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ I.T. | 5+ | 22m, 10 | |||
2 | ★ Samsaru | 7- | 21m | |||
3 | Traseu | 8+ | 22m | |||
4 | Vorace | 7+ | 22m | |||
5 | Teance | 7+/8- | 16m | |||
6 | Rapace | 8 | 16m | |||
7 | Capace | 7 | 22m | |||
8 | Susnumitul | 8+ A1 4B | 2 | |||
9 | Singuratic | 7 | 6m | |||
10 | Variantă Susnumitul | 4B | 2 | |||
11 | Colţul Cetăţii | 7- A0 3B | 58m, 2 |
1.30. Colţul Sanşil 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada clásica y Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Grota Sanşil - varianta cu tunel | 6 A1 3B | 2 | |||
2 | Grota Sanşil - varianta cu ieşire în creastă | 6+ A1 3B | 3 | |||
3 | Grota Sanşil - varianta cu grotă | 6 A0 3B | 2 | |||
4 | Surplomba Sanşil | 7 A1 4A | 5 | |||
5 | ★★ Creasta Sanşil | 6- A0 3B | 160m, 3 | |||
6 | Fehér Macska / Pisica albă | 7+ | 30m | |||
7 | Fekete Macska / Pisica neagră | 7+/8- | 2 | |||
8 | Akandur | 8-/8 | 2 | |||
9 | ★★ Peretele Suspendat | 6+ A1 4B | 5 | |||
10 | Regele Carol al II-lea | 6+ | 21m | |||
11 | Dark Side | 7+/8- | 20m |
1.31. Colțul Crăpat 32 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada artificial
Lat / Long: 46.564500, 23.674829
|
1.31.1. ATA 2007 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.564494, 23.674821
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Furnir | 6 | 14m | |||
2 | OSB | 6+ | 14m | |||
3 | Mușchi și forță | 8 | 36m | |||
4 | Adevăr | 9 | 11m | |||
5 | A Muerte | 11m | ||||
6 | Minciună | 7+ | 7m | |||
7 | Gemenii I | 5 | 7m | |||
8 | Gemenii II | 5 | 7m | |||
9 | ★★ Cocain şi Abel | 6+ | 6 |
1.31.2. Sectorul nordic 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada deportiva, Escalada artificial y Escalada clásica
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Art of Aid | A4 | 3 | |||||
2 | Hypnos | A2 | 3 | |||||
3 | Vis gri închis | 7/7+ | 34m | |||||
4 | Cocota de munte | 3 | ||||||
5 | Backslash | 7+ | 36m | |||||
6 |
★★ Csipkés / Dantelat
The route has a lot of pythons and can be easily aided (6+, A0). The crux move is morpho so the grade is subjective. At 1,74 I would say it is around (hard) 8-. The route wanders a lot so half-ropes are really useful. Also, half-ropes are really useful for the retreat. After the last pitch, continue to climb over some grass ledges, then descend on the south side and find a rappel station. From here, a long abseil follows (around 60m) or 2 shorter ones (you will find the chains of a sport route for the second abseil). While going from the last belay station to the rappel station it is recommended to remain roped . Another option is to abseil over the same side you climbed (look around for other belay stations from other routes, it might be useful). | 8- | 130m, 5 | |||||
7 | Primată deprimată | 4 | ||||||
8 |
Călătorie Psihedelică
Considered to be the most beautiful sport multi-pitch climb in Turzii Gorges | 8+/9- | 110m, 4 | |||||
9 |
Eu, Cuminţenia Pământului
PA: 22 Oct 2023 | 10- | 150m, 4 | |||||
10 |
Nesimţirea absolută
Equip: CMAC, 2017 | 7- | 38m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Superbeţea de catifea
Equip: CMAC, 2017 | 7- | 160m, 4 | |||||
12 | ★★ Vespula Vulgaris | 6+ | 31m | |||||
13 | Schweppes | 7- | 32m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 | ★★★ Thanos | 8- | 31m, 8 |
1.31.3. Sectorul sudic 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fifi, furnica | 7 | 29m | |||
2 | Tam tam | 7- | 30m | |||
3 | Gri, gri | 8-/8 | 31m | |||
4 | La, la, la, Laci | 8-/8 | 32m | |||
5 | Cucu | 8-/8 | 34m | |||
6 | Tyo-tyo | 7 | 2 | |||
7 | Gheena | 2 | ||||
8 | Metalul | 8+ A1 4B | 4 | |||
9 | ★★ Hans Gora | 7- A0 3B | 170m, 3 |
1.32. Colţul Puşcariu 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Han Wag | 6+ | 26m | |||
2 | ★★★ Tao Rossa | 7- | 18m | |||
3 | Kopačky | 7- | 24m | |||
4 | Teneş | 6+ | 25m |
1.33. Peretele Suurime 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada clásica
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Brăduţ | 5A | ||||
2 | Pajura | 4B | 3 | |||
3 | Peretele Suurime | 7+ A1 5A | 4 | |||
4 | Vietnamezul | 3A | 4 |
1.34. Colțul Rotunjit 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.563145, 23.678165
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Creasta matematică | 6 | 4 | |||
2 | Peretele Sudic al Colțului Rotunjit | 6 | 3 | |||
3 | Fata morgana | 8- | 4 | |||
4 | Furnicile | 6- | 7 | |||
5 | Vega | 7- | 3 |
1.35. Poliţele lui Bieltz 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
1.35.1. Mario 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Lighi Oana
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 13m | ||||
2 |
Ba Laura
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 14m | ||||
3 |
Nord
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 17m | ||||
4 |
Eu nu, ăăă, încurajez
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 5 | 17m | |||
5 |
Magical Mystery Tour
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă | 3+ | 2 | |||
6 | Scârbos | 8-/8 | 14m | |||
7 | Chelbos | 15m | ||||
8 | Bigbos | 8 | 16m | |||
9 | ★★ Mario | 7+ | 16m | |||
10 |
Super Mario
Equip: Andrei Ilyeș, 2001 | 6+ | 17m | |||
11 |
Proastă educație
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 8- | 13m | |||
12 |
De duzină
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 4+ | 9m | |||
13 |
Școala altfel
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 3+ | 27m |
1.35.2. Emigrant 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Record absolut
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 8-/8 | 20m | |||
2 |
★★★ Bruzli
Equip: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 7 | 23m | |||
3 | Emigrant | 7+ | 11m |
1.35.3. Produse Bio 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Imi | 9- | 23m | |||
2 | Hazard Bio | 9/9+ | 18m | |||
3 | Şogor | 25m | ||||
4 | Miere Bio | 7+ | 14m | |||
5 | Lapte Bio | 7+ | 13m | |||
6 | Walk the line | 7- | 16m | |||
7 | ATA 2002 | 8- | 13m |
1.36. Peretele Vulturilor 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica
Lat / Long: 46.562645, 23.681439
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Morcov
PA: M. Szlama | 4B | 100m, 3 | |||
2 |
Zeliko
PA: 2009 | 7 | 15m | |||
3 |
Wild Route
PA: 2009 | 8 | 15m |
1.37. Peştera Ungurească 46 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 46.562685, 23.681243
Resumen
A huge north-facing cave situated high in the Turzii Gorge. Perfect for hot days or those where you want to avoid the sun. Can be climbed in the rain as well but the holds won't feel ideal.
descripción
A unique area for Romania with thuggy athletic roof climbing on good holds and mostly permanent gear. Lots of link-ups and crossing lines exist, with groups of climbs finishing on shared anchors. If you're from out of town it's good to talk to a local that knows the routes so you don't get the harder lines confused. Most of the routes have the name painted at the base.
Acceso
Park in front of the Salvamont Hut across the small bridge, there is small lot to the left of the white building. If this is full you will have to pay 10 lei to park in the big private lot. GPS: (46.5602668, 23.6906879)
Walk past the hut taking the trail just behind it. Follow it uphill and at both intersections go right. Eventually you will come to an opening in a scree field. Continue across the scree to the woods after enjoying the view. There's a few more spots for pictures on the way. After another small opening with some rocks on the right, the trail will descend downhill for a second before turning sharply uphill for the last part until you finally reach the cave. Total approach time 20-30 minutes. GPS: (46.5623940, 23.6820760)
Alojamiento
Camping 1 minute away before heading up the road out of the gorge. Lots of airbnb's and rentals in Turda (20 min) and Cluj-Napoca (45 min).
Ética
Keep the cave clean for everyone's enjoyment! Don't litter in the cave. Don't use the bathroom in the cave. No fires in the cave.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Zoliko
Currently the furthest-left route, outside the cave. This route will be the first one you see when walking up. Greasy, hard start leads to some weird techiness on choss before an easier finish. | {FR} 6b | ||||
2 |
Wild Route
Kind of goofy, on brittle rock. Shares anchors with Zeliko. | {FR} 7a | ||||
3 |
★★ Auraru
A pumpy warmup with a bit of polish at the start. Harder than it looks! Equip: Adrian Munteanu & Florin Apahidean, 2002 | 6+ | 10m | |||
4 |
Ţâgan
Equip: Adrian Munteanu & Romică Crişan, 2002 | 7+ | 10m | |||
5 |
Gabor
Equip: Adrian Munteanu, 2002 | 8- | 10m | |||
6 |
Kedeino Se Se Se
PA: Dan Roşca, 2012 | 10+ | 35m | |||
7 |
★★ Ursaru
Equip: Adrian Munteanu & Mihai Horváth, 2002 | 7- | 5m | |||
8 |
★★ Scursaru
Extension of Ursaru. Follows the prominent chalked arête with a hard boulder problem. PA: Rosca Radu Razvan, 2011 Equip: Dan Roşca & Horaţiu Dicoi, 2011 | 9+ | 10m | |||
9 |
Sareta
Equip: Romică Crişan, 1996 | 7 | 15m | |||
10 |
Ciutricip
Equip: Romică Crişan, 2008 | 8 | 15m | |||
11 |
Ştraf
Equip: Romică Crişan, 1996 | 8- | 15m | |||
12 |
★★ Ginta
Equip: Cosmin Poduţ & Romică Crişan, 2002 | 5+ | 15m | |||
13 |
Şatra
Equip: Romică Crişan, 1995 | 6+ | 15m | |||
14 |
Scorbaci
PA: Ovidiu Pop & Romică Crişan, 2002 | 7+ | 15m | |||
15 |
★★ Dric
Hardest of the three that share anchors. For a proper pumpy warmup run all three starting with Tinu and TR the other two without stopping. Equip: Romică Crişan, 1996 | 6- | 10m | |||
16 |
★★ Rostaş
A nice line that's a little. bit harder than Tinu Ceave. Equip: Adrian Munteanu & Ovidiu Pop, 2002 | 5 | 15m | |||
17 |
★★★ Tinu Ceave
Don't let the depressing look of this line fool you, it's pretty sweet. Locate the name on the left side of the cave up on the platform, on the mossy back wall facing outwards toward the exit. Shares anchors with Dric and Rostaş. Equip: Romică Crişan, 1996 | 4+ | 10m | |||
18 |
Purade
A different style of line with a technical start. When you reach the roof you can either traverse into Bulibasa to the right (easier) or stem up and left and traverse the far wall going left, eventually finishing on the same anchors (harder). PA: Romică Crişan, 1995 | 8-/8 | 20m | |||
19 |
★★★ Bulibaşa
Thuggy, juggy, and just lots of fun. The best warmup in the cave. Traditionally traverses right when you get to the upper bit. You can also go left and around the backside of the roof though, making it a bit harder and longer. PA: Romică Crişan, 1994 | 7- | 18m | |||
20 |
★ Piranda
Not the best bolting PA: Romică Crişan, 1996 | 8- | 18m | |||
21 |
Cioroi
Equip: Romică Crişan & Cosmin Poduţ, 2002 | 8- | 18m | |||
22 |
Ciricli
Equip: Romică Crişan, 1996 | 8- | 15m | |||
23 |
★★★ Gadjo Dilo
A continuation of the Ciricli route through a part of Lautaru and then through all the heavy movements in Rudaru. It is definitely harder than Rudaru. PA: Cristian Man Equip: Adorján Nagy & Romică Crişan, 2010 | 9+ | 24m | |||
24 |
★★★ Lautarul
A long roof with long moves mainly on good holds. Many possibilities for knee-bars and heel hooks. Equip: Romică Crişan, 1996 PA: Romeo Chira, 2009 | 9+ | 25m | |||
25 |
★★★ Rudaru
The most classic route at the grade here. A beautiful overhanging endurance line. This line joins a few others near the top. Have a local show you which permadraws to use so you don't go the wrong way. Equip: Romică Crişan, 1994 PA: Marius Oniga, 2001 | 9 | 20m | |||
26 |
★★★ Ciuraru
When most of the routes are damp this one will be dry. Equip: Romică Crişan, 2002 | 9- | 15m | |||
27 |
★★★ Mo Prala
An absolute classic. THE must-do line in the cave at the grade. Equip: Romică Crişan, 1994 | 7+/8- | 20m | |||
28 |
★★★ Mo Gadjo
Equip: Romică Crişan & Călin Popa, 1995 | 8 | 20m | |||
29 |
★★★ Mo Raia
Equip: Romică Crişan & Călin Popa, 1995 PA: Imre Sedevi, 2001 | 9+/10- | 22m | |||
30 |
Mondialu
Equip: Adorján Nagy, 2010 | 9+ | 25m | |||
31 |
★★★ Ţitruş
Equip: Radu Răzvan Roşca & Dan Roşca, 2010 PA: Dan Roşca, 2011 | 10+/11- | 22m | |||
32 |
Țitruș Extension
From Dan Rosca: It was an absorbing project first envisioned in 2011, when this side of the wall had no routes on it. It has different layers of beauty and difficulty: You start with Titrus, reach its top, then with no rest or intro move, you literary "launch" into a hard morpho sequence that connects the line with the roof of Chedeino all the way to the top of Bulibasa. Coming from the ground makes the upper crux a totally different story, this stopper move being at the almost limit of my arm-span. Having to propose an alpha numerical rating for a piece of rock can sometimes be tricky but at 8c the route's difficulty is fairly obvious (outside feedback also from Enzo Oddo and Seb Bugnon). PA: Dan Roşca, 2018 | {FR} 8c | ||||
33 |
Moro
Follow the first 6 bolts of Titrus then make a wicked move to join Şucaru. Finishes at the master anchor shared by Bulibasa, Rudaru, etc. PA: Dan Roşca, 2014 | {FR} 8c | ||||
34 |
★ Cetera
An interesting traverse line that starts way in the back of the front mini-cave on the right. Watch where you belay, there's a massive hole with a nasty drop where it starts. Finishes on the same anchors at Tambal. Equip: Călin Popa & Lucian Farcaş, 1995 | 8 | 15m | |||
35 |
★★★ Ţambal
Gymnastic, juggy, and awesome. This line traverses the most-inside line of bolts on the roof of the right mini-cave near the front, finishing on the low anchors to the left of the start of Titrus, about 5 meters up. There is currently a red permadraw on it. This route is worth trying just for insane roof arch crux which is a style you usually only see in a gym. While the climbing is great, it does not get much attention since it is low to the ground with spacey bolting. If you are solid at the grade, you have nothing to worry about with a tight catch as the falls swing you outward and away from the higher platform. Bring a kneepad or two. PA: Romică Crişan, 1995 | 8+ | 10m | |||
36 |
★★★ Xylofon
Starts on Tambal and ends on Mondialu. Super aesthetic movements with one good rest in 30 meters. PA: Maria Stefania Ionel, 2014 | {FR} 7c/c+ | 30m | |||
37 |
★ Ocarina
Super steep, short powerful moves. Ends on the 4th permadraw. PA: Ionel Ene Equip: Romică Crişan, 1995 | 9- | 12m, 4 | |||
38 |
★★ Sucarina
An extension of Ocarina. Overhanging bouldery moves. Power Endurance! PA: Radu Răzvan Roşca & Dan Roşca, 2010 | 10+ | 25m | |||
39 |
★★★ Şucaru
A world-class line. Do Sucarina then continue the beef into Chedeino. | {FR} 8b+ | 32m | |||
40 |
★★★ Coviltir
A full-body workout! PA: Romică Crişan, 1994 PA: Imre Sedevi, 2001 | 9+/10- | 17m | |||
41 |
Coño
Starts on Coviltir and continues onto the roof of Chedeino. PA: Dan Roşca, 2016 | {FR} 8b | ||||
42 | ★ Mocabrio | 10+ | ||||
43 |
Traseu
Equip: Adorján Nagy & Romică Crişan, 2010 | 7 | 15m | |||
44 |
Traseu 2
PA: Adorján Nagy & Romică Crişan, 2010 | 8- | 15m | |||
45 |
Traseu 3
Equip: Florin Daneliuc, 2011 | 8+ | 15m | |||
46 |
★★ Bloody Mary
Currently the furthest right route, outside the cave. Traverses above the lip of the cave to the left. Takes a very long time to dry after rain. Crucial pockets stay wet for a while. PA: Rosca Radu Razvan, 2015 | {FR} 8b |
1.38. Peretele Lateral 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Maya | 7+ | 10m | |||
2 | Nuk | 9+/10- | 10m | |||
3 | Baila | 9 | 8m | |||
4 | El Maricon | 10 | 8m | |||
5 | Colţişor | 10m |
1.39. Peretele din Belvedere 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Frăsinel | 6- | ||||
2 | Frumoasa | 8+ | 16m | |||
3 | Bestia | 8- | 17m | |||
4 | Chestia | 8+/9- | 15m | |||
5 | Zmeul | 7+/8- | 7 | |||
6 | Prâslea | 6+ | ||||
7 | ★★ Avântul | 7- | ||||
8 | ★★ Abis | 7+ | 28m, 12 | |||
9 | Main dampf | 8+ | ||||
10 | Main | 7+ | 29m | |||
11 | Stein | 8+ | ||||
12 | Stein Extension | 9 | ||||
13 | Rain | 9- | ||||
14 | ★★ Fain | 8+ | 27m | |||
15 | Pro pain | 10- | ||||
16 | Hain | 9+ | 20m | |||
17 |
Cain
After the 5th bolt the route goes a bit left merging into "Hain". If you continue straight up there are no more bolts as you are climbing the trad route "Crackul" | 8+/9- | 20m | |||
18 | Crackul | 7 | 21m |