★★★ Tarantula G1

The route runs up the centre of the third rock band north of Hanglip proper. It is easily distinguished by the following descriptions: A corner with a large open book will be observed approximately 100m up. In the middle of the open book, a strip of white rock is noticeable. To the left of the route there is a large grassy ramp, ending short of a free-standing rock tower.

1. 30m (F2) From the beacon, ascend the crack which narrows in the centre. The overhang at the top is avoided by negotiating the left-hand wall.

2. 35m (F2+) AScend broken wall to large shelf. Climb the corner on the left with stance on second shelf.

3. 35m (G1) Traverse 1-2m to the right and ascend the face until directly under the overhang. Traverse right to ledge below large open book.

4. 18m (G1) Use aid to get off the ground, and climb the following 5m free. Two further aid moves are required to attain a small fig tree. A small stance will be reached 6m higher.

5. 15m (G1) Climb to the top of the open book. Aid was used to negotiate the bulge and to move off the stance.

6. 27m (F1) Traverse to the right and climb up a short crack - then traverse 16m to the right onto a grassy band.

7. 25m (F2) Climb the receding ramp in the corner. The crux is below a tree that grows out of the corner approximately hald way up.

8. 40m (E2) Climb the right hand crack to the summit.