Ayuda

II

  • Contexto de grado: SA
  • Ascensiones: 3
7

Estacionalidad

E
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Descripción

The cliff is more or less south facing and has all-day shade (at least in winter).

Restricciones heredado de Hanglip South

Written permission from Entabeni Game Reserve is required. Access should be arranged via the MCSA Johannesburg section. Private parties will not be allowed. Climbers will be escorted by Entabeni staff to- and from the climbs.

Acceso

There is a cement road going over the neck to the left of the koppie, just before the cement road starts turn right to drive next to the koppie for about 100m to a point where the trees become thinner and most of the slope is grassy. Walk up the slope to the routes.

Descenso

From the top walk to the left until you find a good decent gully. Follow the gully until you get to the cement road and then follow the cement road down.

It is also possible to abseil down a gully just right of Cycad Ridge.

Etiquetas

Vías

Añadir vía(s) Añadir croquis Reordenar Edición en bloque Convertir grados
Grado Vía
1 F3 A1 26m
2 G1 40m
3 F3 30m
4 F2 25m
5 G1 A1 32m

The route generally follows the shallow recess about 30m to the left of the prominent chimney of Afternoon Ascension. At the base is a steep corner that peters out before reaching the shallow recess above. About 15m to the right is another corner extending from the left of a small overhang about 3m up to a larger overhang about 12m up. Start below this corner.

  1. 26m (F3 A1) Mantleshelf up to face to a small ledge below the corner, then climb the corner to the upper overhang via mixed aid and free climbing. Move to the left under the overhang to a ledge and then traverse to the left around a bulge to a ledge at the base of a recess.

  2. 40m (G1) Climb 6m diagonally to the left up a face, then traverse to the right into a corner behind a huge flake. Climb 7m to a ledge at the top of the flake, then traverse to the left to the arete. Move up a thin face to a small sloping ledge, then move to the left around the arete and into a corner. Climb the corner for about 18m to a small ledge at the top of a pinnacle.

  3. 30m (F3) Continue 12m up to corner to a small ledge on the left-hand face. Continue up the face to another ledge, then traverse to the left until the large ledge can be easily gained.

  4. 25m (F2) Climb the continuation of the recess to a large ledge.

  5. 32m (G1 A1) From the left-hand end of the large ledge, descend to a small ledge and traverse to the left to the base of a bulging crack. Climb the crack, using two nuts for aid in the lower portion, to easier rock above the overhang. Continue to top.

PA: Paul Fatti & Art McGarr, 1974

1 D 15m
2 E 30m
3 F1 25m
4 F2 25m
5 F2 25m
6 E3 30m
7 D 30m

Start 40m right of chimney. Scramble up to ledge.

  1. 15m (D) Traverse left to foot of chimney.

  2. 30m (E) Climb chimney to top of large chockstone.

  3. 25m (F1) Traverse left around corner. Ascend recess to platform below chimney.

  4. 25m (F2) Ascend chimney to chockstone

  5. 25m (F2) Climb diagonally across right face towards tree. Traverse 5m below tree to right hand side of ledge. Mantleshelf up to ledge. Tree belay.

  6. 30m (E3) Start in groove 2m left of tree and climb straight up to big overhangs. Traverse out right to corner stance.

  7. 30m (D) Scramble via grass ledges to top.

PA: T. Bright, D. Charlton, P. Petoussis & G. Thorpe, 1947

1 G1 36m
2 F2 13m
3 F2 11m
4 G1 36m
5 F3 30m
6 F2 48m
7 D 10m

The route goes up the prominent crack-line 50m to the right of Afternoon Ascension on the Eastern Buttress above the camp site.

Scramble up to a ledge and tree belay at the foot of the crack.

  1. 36m (G1) Climb the crack (difficult to start) and then continue diagonally up to the left for 13m on broken rock before moving diagonally back to the right into the crack about 5m below a small tree. Climb the crack with difficulty past two small trees, to a stance on a small ledge with a good tree belay.

  2. 13m (F2) Traverse to the right around the corner for 7m to a large ledge, and then climb up steeply to another large ledge with a small tree belay.

  3. 11m (F2) Climb diagonally back up to the left to a stance in the main crack (Nut belay).

  4. 36m (G1) Climb steeply up the crack for 8m before traversing to the right with difficulty, using a small finger-rail, to a foothold around the corner. Mantleshelf with difficulty onto a small ledge and continue up via two further hard moves to a ledge with a bong belay 3m below a prominent overhang in the main crack.

  5. 30m (F3) Climb up to the overhang and continue strenuously past it on the left. Continue up the steep crack to a small ledge with nut belays about 5m below a large section of red rock.

  6. 48m (F2) Descend 1m from the stance and traverse delicately to the left for 7m into a corner. Traverse further to the left along a grassy ledge and then climb up, bearing slightly left to a grassy stance with a tree belay.

  7. 10m (D) Scramble to top.

PA: P. Fatti & L. Mallen, 1971

1 G3 30m
2 G2 30m
3 F3 30m

Start 15m left of Naked Orange.

  1. 30m (G3) Climb the steep crack (mostly G2 and G3). When the holds run out, make a hard traverse (G3) left and up on small knobs. Move back into the crack and up onto a stance about 5m below the roof.

  2. 30m (G2) Traverse right on small holds to a recess which yields some protection. Continue railing to the end of the roof. Move up on the right to an easy traverse line back left. Where this ends (directly above previous stance) drop down and rail into the flared open book on the left. Climb this with difficulty and then onto the face above and through rightwards to a large flake. Climb this to a stance on the left.

  3. 30m (F3) Climb the recess on the left to a grassy ledge where a scramble to the right leads to easy ground and convenient abseil trees.

PA: Chris Lomax & Dave Cheesmond, 1979

1 F2 30m
2 F3 A2 24m
3 F1 40m
4 F2 20m
5 E2 40m

The route follows a line 130m right of Afternoon Ascension and 15m left of a huge boulder.

  1. 30m (F2+) Start at the base of a crack and corner and climb straight up the crack. Climb up as high as possible, then traverse to the left onto the face. Move up and traverse to the right to an obvious ledge.

  2. 24m (F3 A2) Climb diagonally upward, passing over a small overhang, for 20m until stopped by an overhanging rock. Traverse to the right underdeath (sic) this rock to a recess and an overhanging crack. Climb the crack (A2) to easier rock and a small stance. It may be advisable to divide this pitch into two to reduce rope-drag.

  3. 40m (F1) Traverse right, move up to ledge, then traverse left and climb through overhanging rock bearing slightly left, to a large ledge below a grey open book recess.

  4. 20m (F2) Climb the open book recess to a grass ledge, then traverse right to a tree belay.

  5. 40m (E2) Climb up through easy rock bands, bearing slightly left to reach the top. Walk off left along a large grass ledge.

PA: Eckhart Druschke, Romey Druschke & Clive Ward, 1973

1 F1 25m
2 F2 10m
3 F2 25m
4 E3 45m
5 F1 30m
6 E3 45m
7 E2 45m
8 E1 45m

From the start of Naked Orange, walk along the rock face to the right until a ledge is reached. Continue along the ledge (about 150m) to a 4m open book with a beacon at the start. This is about 50m to the left of C cad.

  1. 25m (F1) Climb the open book, traverse 2m to the right and continue up a crack and a face to a ledge capped by overhangs.

  2. 10m (F2) Climb the recess, traverse delicately 2m to the lef, then climb a smooth bulging face to a stance with a wedge belay.

  3. 25m (F2) Move up to just below an overhang, make a tricky move to the left and continue traversing 13m on the same level to a stance in a recess.

  4. 45m (E3) Climb out diagonally to the left to a little tree to the left of a steep face, then move to the right and up a recess to a big tree.

  5. 30m (F1) Continue up to the left at first, then diagonally to the right onto a smooth ledge. Move to the right into a corner, do a delicate pull-up mantleshelf out to the right and move up to big ledge.

  6. 45m (E3) Scramble diagonally to the left at first, to an obvious crack in a little buttress. The route here crosses Cycad. Climb up to a stance 5m below a tree.

  7. 45m (E2) Climb past the tree and continue up just to the left of a cycad to a comfortable ledge with two trees. This stance is shared with Cycad.

  8. 45m (E1) Continue up the face. Further scrambling leads to the top.

PA: J. Zietsman & Eckhart Haber, 1976

This climb follows the ridge 50m to the right of African Bee. Most of the route is fairly obvious. At the top rock band a leftward detour from a recess onto a face is necessary.

PA: M. Prior

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