Nodo |
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Limpopo |
Kransberg
The Mountain Club of South Africa partially owns the land at Kransberg. Access is limited to members and their guests. Kransberg is a remote area with trad climbing (only). The routes are between 3 and 6 pitches long and provide excellent exposure in a natural setting. A large vulture colony is found immediately west of the climbing area. Kransberg offers a number of good quality multipitch climbs of moderate to easy grades. Combined with an hour walk in and an easy, obvious descent, this makes for a friendly place to practise your multipitch skills before heading off to bigger, harder walls like Blouberg. That said, the climbs will keep you honest. On most climbs, expect to have to climb a few meters between gear placements, especially on the faces where you will encounter a few more blank rails than you may like. The popular routes are well enough protected though, so do not worry too much. The MCSA have released a route guide for the area that is available on their website. |
Kransberg |
Cerrado West Area - Vulture colony
Area closed to climbing for protection of the Cape Vultures colony. |
Chevron Area
This is the main climbing area near the MCSA campsite. |
Kransberg Chevron Area |
13
★ Auf Wiedersehen
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
12
★★ Eierkrantz
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
15
Perdeby
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
20
★ Wild Thing
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
17
Claypot
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
7
Yellowwood Gully
This gully provides a pleasant descent route. Two abseils of 20m and 14m from big yellowwood trees are required during the descent. |
12
★ Bacchus
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
13
Snowflake
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
15
★ Hatchet
The climb is situated just to the right of the Eierkrantz buttress, between Snowflake and Wafer Crack. When looking at the face from below there is an orange scar at the bottom left. Just right of the top of the orange scar there are two prominent cracks going to the top of the face, the left one stopping just short of the top. The climb follows the left hand crack about halfway and then the right hand crack to the top.
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13
Wafer Crack
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
17
★★★ Rum Doodle
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
13
★ Cone Face
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
13
★ Hole and Corner
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
20
Cheetah
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
19
Tom-Tom
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
17
★★ Aasvoëls End
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
22
Endvoëls Arse
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
17
★ Jerrymunglum
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
17 A0
Jerrymunglum Direct
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
17
Swift Crag
freed at grade 21 |
19
The Reluctant Accomplice
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
13
★★ Groothoek Chimney
Two large diagonal cracks form a feature on the krantz that look like the Eiffel Tower. This route climbs the left crack. Clean and sustained climbing with possibly one grade 15 move. The crux is in the 2nd half of the route. |
19
★★ Apocolypse
The routes goes up a conical buttress. Starts near a big yellowwood tree midway between Groothoek Chimney and Black Eagle Crag below a big roof 15/20m up.
Note: Excellent climbing made less serious by the proximity of Groothoek Chimney. |
16
★★★ Black Eagle Crag
Two large diagonal cracks form a feature on the krantz that look like the Eiffel Tower. The left crack is climbed by 'Groothoek Chimney'. 'Black Eagle Crag' follows a line up the right crack and then on the face between the cracks. The start is in a vegetated crack leading to some large overhangs in the centre of the Chevron, 15m right of 'Groothoek Chimney'.
Variations: (Pitch 1, 17): Right of crack of pitch 1 there is another crack with overhanging roof. Climb this moving out left at top. (Pitch 1, 17): Start behind tree between the two cracks. Climb the face. (Pitch 6, 20): There is a break in the middle of the overhang right at the tip of the Eiffel Tower. |
21
★★ Reprobate
On the corner of Groothoek gully is a buttress with a tree on top. It is possible to scramble up it from the left. Just left of the buttress is a wide water streak right of a small (30cm) right facing corner. The original climb starts 30m directly above the right facing corner on a large ledge which can be accessed by traversing left from the above mentioned buttress. There is supposed to be a "very good direct start (17)" to reach this point.
Note: Pitches 4 and 5 are a variation of the original line that provides better climbing. The original line climbed much further towards the right to a grass and aloe ramp and then up various corners to a ledge leading to the right, finishing 4m left of Chukamisa. |
16
★ Chukamisa
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
18
Reaching Raptors
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
11
★★ Sunshine Crack
Left of 'Groothoek Gully' is a large block with a large tree on top. The climb proper starts on this block.
Variations: (Pitch 3 & 4, 15): From the large ledge, move onte the left hand face at a point about 5m left of the main corner. Climb diagonally leftwards up face to the top. (2002, A. George, A. Porter) |
8
Devil's Highway
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
6
Groothoek Gully
This is the usual decent route involving some scrambling. |
13
Dry Waterfall
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
12
Feather Recess
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
15
Lego
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
17
The Sinner
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
15
★ The Saint
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
15
★★★ Angel Recess
About 10m left of Angelica is a small buttress against the main face about 10m high. Start in the corner between the buttress and the main face on the left side of the buttress.
Note: The climb can be done in two pitches by scrambling to the top of the buttress (easy on the right) and then combining pitches 1 and 2. |
11
★ Angelica
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
19
★★ Alignment
Climb the thin seam, splitting the buttress, to the right of Angelica’s deep crack. This is easily seen from where the path enters the kloof at the base of Sunshine Crack. Walk around Angelica’s pillar and scramble up to a ledge at the base of the crack, about 25m right of Angelica’s pillar.
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13
Jerries' Jitters
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
17
Hairyback
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
13
Pigeon Pie
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
17
Enema
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
17
Pwoit
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
12
Dry Vulch Traverse
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
13
Chanel Crack
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
15
Vintage Adventure
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
15
Lavender Crack
The route is 70m to the right of 'Chanel Crack' in a corner formed by a step in the face. The vegetation has discouraged subsequent parties. |
17
Imagination
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
7
Garden Route
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
19
Lost Contact
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
12
Cabin Crack
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
13
Crack of Doom
Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section. |
Kransberg |
Wages of Fear Area
5km east of the Chevron. Some of the hardest and best climbs are found here. |
Kransberg Wages of Fear Area |
15
★ Vavoom
Access from Grobbler farm, Contact "Klipbokkie trails". Alternatively Please contact the MCSA for access details. |
21
★★★ Red Rackhams Treasure
This route climbs directly up the middle of “red sail” (same face as Vavoom) and breaks through the left extremity of the top overhangs
Descent
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17
Gasoline Alley
Access from Grobbler farm, Contact "Klipbokkie trails". Alternatively Please contact the MCSA for access details. |
22
★★★ Wages of Fear
Access from Grobbler farm, Contact "Klipbokkie trails". Alternatively Please contact the MCSA for access details. |
22
Echard's Error
Access from Grobbler farm, Contact "Klipbokkie trails". Alternatively Please contact the MCSA for access details. |
22
Faction Fightin
Access from Grobbler farm, Contact "Klipbokkie trails". Alternatively Please contact the MCSA for access details. |
12
Plumbline
Access from Grobbler farm, Contact "Klipbokkie trails". Alternatively Please contact the MCSA for access details. |
18
★★★ Grey Beard's Sabre
Pitch 1: 50m 18: Gain the obvious crack on the left of the stance follow the easiest line up the crack system past a small block on the left with a manky piton. (20m) continue upwards until you reach a large ledge below the open book. Pitch 2: 60m 15: continue up the open book feature until you reach an obvious stance on the left of the crack. (2 people comfortably). Pitch 3:50m 16: climb up the crack until you reach a small overhang move diagonally left through the overhang and continue up the face trending left past a small tree on the left arête to a stance below a large yellowwood . Pitch 4: 50m 18: traverse right from the good stance back onto the face, trend diagonally right until you gain the right arête, bomb up the committing but well protected face until you reach the obvious stance before the easy scramble out. |
Renosterpoort Farm
Two good climbing areas, single pitch trad and deep water solo |
Renosterpoort Farm |
Lazy Day Crag
Lazy day crag nice climbing on gritty vertical rock. wilderness area so watch out for snakes and baboon dung on the rock. |
Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag |
Upper Sector
Short climbs near a nice cascade and natural pool |
Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag Upper Sector |
6c
★★ Poolside Boulder
Start just to the left of lightning bird, a boulder problem to the ledge, rap off the tree. |
18
★★ Lightning Bird
The objective of this route is a lightning bolt shaped crack on a block at the top of the crag, where the gorge makes a bend. Start behind a huge boulder, true left, at the narrowest point of the gorge.' Climb up in the corner to a mantle move through an overhanging crack. Aim straight for the block, easy, and top out via the lightning crack. |
Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag |
Chopping Block
Large rectangular block the juts out from the main face |
Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag Chopping Block |
18
★★★ Poo with a view
Climb on the stream facing side of the block, start 2m to the left of the corner shared by slickenside, pull on good holds through overhanging bulges. |
18
★★ Slickenside
Climb on the face adjacent to the vegetated dihedral, start close to the corner |
Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag |
Main Crag
Main wall at lazy day crag |
Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag Main Crag |
13
★ Face of Fear
Start to the right of a 3m high block in an nice dihedral, Traverse right onto a ledge avoid nettles, some scary moves up a sloping dihedral to a small ledge, move left and up passing a small tree on the right. |
14
★ Dutch Rubber
Climb 2m to a small ledge, weasel your way (left or right) of a small chimney trending up and right follow you nose up to a good ledge with a tree, continue up on the left hand side of the tree. FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo, Delpoort Botma, Courtney Robinson, Mathias De Beenhouwer |
15
★★ Sunbird
Scramble to a ledge beneath a small roof, pull through roof off crimps to easy climbing to the right, follow vertical seam to top. |
16
★ Crack a doodle doo
Start to the right of chimney, climb diagonally right up obvious line to ledge, traverse left under overhanging section into chimney. Climb to top. Stance at tree. |
Thieving Magpies
Start the same as for Crack A Doodle, at blank overhanging rock go slightly right and up, follow line of blank overhanging rock until roof ¾ way up, pull through roof on crimps to jugs then easier rock |
16
★ Bobejaan klim die berg
Climb the obvious diagonal slab and rail left under the left hand side of the roof to a small ledge with trees. Continue more or less straight up to the top of the crag. |
11
6.7 Klimen en klauterin
Start as for FNJ, continue traversing left beneath the steep rock, continue up the recess between the two major faces, stance where necessary and follow your nose to the top up easy rock. |
19
★★ Activate
Between “KeK”and “FNJ” Skirting the first corner 2m up activates then mental focus for the route. Climb easily half way up to a roof corner crack. Pull through middle of block, with a long move to next rail. Powerful and commiting. Climb out slightly to right around corner and up straight. Easier climbing but still committing |
19
★★ Full Nettle Jacket
Start at stream level and climb the obvious buttress, through a small roof halfway up the buttress |
21
★★★ Juluka
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15
★★ Riverview
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Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag |
Sunny Face
North facing more slabby |
Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag Sunny Face |
12
Adder Udder
Start at the base of an open book and follow your nose to a ledge with trees |
Lindani
New developed sport climbing venue in the Waterberg |
Lindani |
Big Fig
The Big Fig crag is approximately 400meters to the left (climber's left) of the Upper crag |
Lindani Big Fig |
16
★ Fig Jam
15m left of Big Fig. From the 2m high ledge climb up the crack system to the left of two wide cracks. 4m up then step left to a fist jam, up trending right to a short orange arete at the top. |
15
★ Big Fig
Start 2 meters left of Big Fig Direct. Climb up on loose looking blocks for 5 meters then diagonally right to the tree. Keep left of the tree using it where necessary. Strait up in crack above tree to convenient belay and ab tree. |
Lindani |
Upper Crag
Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception. |
Lindani Upper Crag |
15
★ SNAKE ALLY
Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception. |
17
★★ Bolting is fun
5 meters to the right of Willows Way, a small crack line leads into a bulge. Climb the crack and pull through the bulge on small but good holds. Then, over easy ground to the anchors. |
14
★★ Willows Way
Start in the small recess. Climb the corner and move out to the arete when possible. Follow the crack line and then pull through some overhangs to the top. Easy but technical first 10 meters. |
20
★★★ STRIPED PIPIT
Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception. |
16
★★ DASSIEVOEL
Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception. |
19
★★★ Narina Bozon
Starts to the right of too legit to quit, takes the obvious crack line through the roof, easy pulling through nice overhangs. |
19
★★★ TO LEGIT TO QUIT
Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception. |
21
★ Flight of the Mopane Bee
Starts left of Too Legit to Quit. Are you👆 going left or right at the roof? |