Vías como deportiva en Sudáfrica

Extention of The Megalomaniac. Starting on The Megalomaniac, it runs along till the last bolt of The Megalomaniac, tends gradually upward, then crosses over the last bolt of Kleptomaniac, the last bolt of Cock or Bollock (in the roof) and then follows a roof crack and ends on Violent Streak's chains.

"If I was to grade and it was boulderable it could see around 8B+ for the whole thing...?" - Paul Robinson (3rd Ascent)

Walk past 'Bukketraube' on your left to the next boulder to your right.

Instagam: Giuliano Cameroni

Instagam: Fred Nicole

Opening ascent - mellow

Bolted by Dylan Vogt and Chris Cosser. This line takes the beautiful blank rock just downstream of 'Squawplay' via some absolutely insane moves on monos. By Chris's own account he said it could be 9a.

Open Project

Clip the first couple of bolts on 'Frazzle' then move left and up on small holds. Just when you think you have pulled hard enough, the crux appears; a long move from a break. Reach will help. An amazing line.

MCSA bolts.

Closed Project

Open Project

Open Project

Open Project

Compression roof climbing, twisting turning through the roof and snatching for your dear life on the lip will set you free.

The right hand line.

Open

Linkup of Chongalolo and The Legend Of The Lost Italian Climber

Boven’s hardest line! And worthy of the crown, being long, steep and of continually interesting climbing. Take sthe obvious 20 degree leaning wall. Scramble up to start with a hollow flake and a hard move left to the arête. Then lots of sidepulling leads to a desperate campussing crux. MCSA Bolts

Starts at the left of The Man cave, traversing through a flat roof on a parallel crack to the right, ending on a lead out dash to the chains exiting the roof. 3 Bolts up, 8 across and a dash to the chains.

Left-hand side line of bolt on the overhanging red wall slanting to the right, midway up the face. Stick clip recommended. Rebolted by Andrew Pedley in 2012.

Closed Project

From the tree climb up then left and finish as Skywalker

Sport FA and grade here

8b+ boulder problem as reported on 8a.nu

left wall right route

Key holds have broken off

Some holds have broken off since FA.

Local legend Ningo opened this in 2007, the route only seeing its second ascent in 2022. A bullet hard line pulling through on pockets in the roof.

Open

The only 6 star line in the Universe? The sixth star is not for the climbing, just the aesthetics, this line is flawless and makes all other rock types look ugly. Sustained pocket and edge pulling takes you to a shake then a boulder problem to a glorious cruise to the chains. If you do this climb you are amazing.

Climbs up the very blank, very overhanging wall. Pack you best pair of fingers.

Aja Project 8c/8c+

Start up the choss pillar 10m right of 'Snapdragon'. Through the roof above.

The blankness just left of 'Snapdragon'. A couple of extremely poor holds on the face lead to easier ground. Might be 33..?

Climbs up the centre of the blank gently leaning wall via some desperately awkward movements. Starts off the ground at the base of the crack. Clip first bolt with a single screwgate biner from the block. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. Needs grade confirmation.

Start 10m right of 'Monster'. Continue straight up above 'The Beast' man trap on a sea of crimps and dead points. Mountain Club of South Africa Bolts

The leftmost line up the long leaning face... At the ledge 8 metres up, look out over the forest, take a deep breath then immerse yourself in 25 metres of pumping orange rock-karate. Opened at 34 but 33 with new sequence on crux.

📹 Video

Probably 33-ish. Yes, it really does cross the big blank face! Gallop up the wall left of 'The Butterfly P1', to a niche, then all hell breaks loose, bring your strongest fingers. Joins 'The Butterfly P1' for the last 2-3 bolts. Opened at 35 downgraded to 32 and now maybe 33 as some footholds got smaller.

FA Video

Two pitches. The first is easy the second is very hard. Best to try the top pitch off a hanging belay (two bolts). Some outrageously thin and techy moves up the short vertical wall. Unrepeated ATOW.

Controversial! This is the old p4 project at oudshoorn main wall, climbs the crux of el nino and then splits off right to another crux that used to be about 6C+ Before i broke a hold that changed the boulder to 7a+. I sent the project to the new chains of el nino which the route later climbs close by but then fell on the top moves of the full line as the holds where wet. The full line with broken holds is thus still up for grabs but i will be back in jan to finish it off. All controversy aside the line is amazing and must get tried more, great powerful flowy moves that pump your brains out(only slightly harder than seven) - Ben Louw

Very long line running up the entire left side of the overhang

The route has seven manufactured holds

Open Project - 80m rope!

2nd line from the left. Easy climbing to blank section (Stack rocks/dyno?) followed by semi-parallel opposing side pulls with an extremely technical headwall, into the roof crack and blasts to the top of the crag.

Start up Stem Gem, before moving out right to follow the line of bolts on the blunt arête.

"The stuff of dreams; a spectacular spear-arête adorning the western corner of the hillside"

1. 15 bolts

2. 8 bolts

3. ? bolts

left wall middle route

Climb Strange Days and just before the anchors, move on to The Activist.

https://www.climbing.co.za/2018/01/old-projects-opened-by-andrea-biffi-in-montagu/

Clinton Martinengo

Video

Stunning stunning stunning. Start on the far R end of the steep ‘chos’. Boulder up diagonally left to a jug on the headwall then bust out left and up the immaculate orange streak above. Doesn’t get any better than this anywhere..except for DW.

A very hard move to turn the lip then easier above.

Ask Damien if you can open it for him. Once you’ve both finished laughing, he might well say yes.

Open project. 70m rope. Use knee pads and long draws to improve quality of life on this route.

Open project.

Starts up 'God of Small Things' then moves left then up on very small holds. Opened at 30! Alternative start bolted by A. Pedley, won‟t change the grade and nicer, being independent and direct. Opened at 30..! Needs a 2nd ascent.

Does't look hard from below but an absence of any useful holds on the headwall gives plenty of spice. Solid 8b. Starts just left of 'Tripolactic Fairytales'.

Blasts straight up to top of the crag via awkward pulls in the roof. Opened using the left sequence at the crux but a sequence on the right is possible.

The route up the middle of the face, was SA‟s hardest climb for many years and still one of the hardest lines in Boven. Solid at the grade, opened at 33. Steel fingers and ace footwork are required. 70 m rope needed.

Not the Steve McClure 9a but pretty cool. Climbs 'The Beast' until 2/3 height then shoot straight up the strenuous crack. A nice variation on the original. 31 if you can get the jams right? use a 70m rope

Boven‟s 'King Line'. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10-move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. It is possible to move off-line to a jug far right just before the crux but this is a kop-out and would be graded 30/31.

Start with your feet on the lowest boulders, preclip first bolt. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Finish rightwards to for most fun.

The mega linkup; Red Dragon-Johnny-Blackout, by Wesley Black.

After the dyno of Red Dragon, head left through some steep terrain to join Johnny Keep Walking. After the crux of Johnny, head left and up from the roof before joining Blackout for the last 3 bolts.

Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Scramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on.

Starts in the pit. Bouldery start leads to a half-height hard move which requires accuracy of movement and body tension to stick, or some sneaky beta... Compulsary showboat one-arm-hang clip of the 5th draw when sending for full pleasure.

Route tops out

MJ sending The Scream. Video by Thomas Luger

FA post on Facebook

Illona Pelser on Instagram: "31 maybe 32 (SA Grade), One of the most unique hard routes in South Africa"

Clinton Martinengo (Link): "An amazing route very unique to Paarl Rock ... I personally think it 32". Video