Vías en Sudáfrica para grado seleccionado

Climb the slab right of scoop

Climb up the middle of the face.

Climb the arete. Acts also as a climb down.

Start with the bottom of the rail and climb up.

Sit-start with large slopey holds and climb up. (Sit-start low left traverse extension...)

Climb the slab.

Up the arete and rightward

To the left of the performer, start on the pedestal and head left on good edges

Up the obvious features next to the colourful streak

From the low break move up on slopey crimps to gain better holds in the higher breaks

From the jug shelf move right to join the arete

From the break move up over the bulges

Large moves around the bulge

Great quality moves on great quality rock

Climb out left.

Start with shelf and climb up on good rails.

Start on the low corner and climb straight up through glorious golden grips. Amazing!

Start on the low corner and climb rightwards on awesome jugs towards the downclmb runnel.

Start on jugs and set up on edges to a toss for another jug

Make a toss out the left side of the short roof

Climb out the middle of the short roof

Cabin Pressure, but start on the jug rail

The elder farm dog

Sit start at obvious jug and climb up and traverse out right through the hole

Skip the first move of Spare the Rod

Skip the first move of Spoil the Child

A pumpy boulder problem from the get go, turn the lip for easy climbing to the top.

On the right of the Rooibosch wall is a huge roof at about 1/3 height. The route climbs up to the middle of this roof then rails out spectacularly rightwards to pass it before continuing via another roof higher up to the top.

1. 25 m (15) About 50m right of the tunnel scramble gulley is a slightly overhanging, orange recess directly below a prominent, leftward protruding prow on the massive roof above. Climb this recess to the huge ledge (the same ledge from which Rooibosch starts).

2. 30 m (25) Move across the ledge to the base of the wall directly below the middle of the huge roof. Climb the crack leading up to the notch in the first level of roof. Pull through the notch to reach the big rail under the main roof. Rail right until able to pull onto the face above using great pockets and a good crack. Move up to the next rail then head left until able to pull up to a small ledge. Make a semi-hanging stance using small cams. A superb and wild pitch. Gear: A #4 and a #3 Camalot and long slings are useful for the rail and some small cams for the stance.

3. 30 m (17) Climb straight up to a big ledge. Continue up to the next big ledge.

4. 25 m (14) Move up ~6m on the right of the big roof to the second roof. Rail left until the roof ends. Stand up above the roof, move left, and up to the top.

A varied route just right of 'Amarula' with a stunning arete pitch and contender for the best-designed belay stance on the mountain.

1. [22] 15m

   Start 5m right of 'Amarula' on top of some blocks. Up easily to a large rail below a roof. Move left and pull through the roof onto a small platform. Head straight up the smooth recess to a good ledge.

2. [25] 20m

   Head up and left to a wide rail below an overhanging nose. On the left of the nose, there is a narrow crack (tiny cam required). Pull up into the higher vertical crack and crank to a horizontal rail. Step right around the nose and up a short layback to a thin rail. Step back left across the nose and then up a series of laybacks to a fantastic stance above the prow. Gear: Very small cam (eg. C3 000) to protect the first move onto the nose.

3. [21] 45m

   Climb up and right into a bottomless chimney. Continue up and step right onto a large split block. Tackle the steep jam crack (with an off-width to the right). Move right around the corner onto a ledge and straight up to the huge ledge.

4. [16] 20m

   Step off a wobbly block and climb a golden, polished arete (just right of a gulley) and then easy slabs to the top. This is probably shared with 'Ice Tea'.

Starts about 10m right of Bat off a rectangular black block below a leftward pointing prong and short corner/crack. The route heads straight up through a large, dark red corner to the right-hand side of the large roof then does an airy, Oceans Of Air like traverse left under the roof to escape straight up the blunt corner system to the top.

1. 25 m (21) From the block use the prong to pull into the corner. Climb up and slightly right up a shallow recess then back left onto some blocks and through an overhang onto a large ledge.

2. 15 m (25) The dithering pitch. Climb a layback flake into a dark red/brown corner below a roof. Rail 4m right to below a small prong. Hard moves up to a rail and up the groove to the big ledge below the huge roof. Stance on the left.

3. 20 m (18) Rail left to a semi-hanging stance on the black rock past the huge roof.

4. 50 m (18) Straight up to a large ledge. Up a shallow, yellow recess just to the left for another 15m to the huge ledge.

5. 35 m (21) Climb the short, wide, overhanging crack at the left end of the ledge. Up and left past the blocky roof and up to the top.

Steep climbing through some imposing terrain. Large cams including a #4 Camalot useful. Start 20m right of Snake In The Grass. At this point, the large roof on the left ends and another starts on the right about 2m higher up.

1. 20 m (25) From a projecting, good edge at head height, pull up past three rails into a short brown corner. A hard move (past an old peg) gets one to the roof. Traverse left until the roof almost peters out and crank up to the next rail. Move 2m right, up to the next rail, and back left to another old peg. From here head 3m diagonally up and right across a face to a hanging stance left of a bulge.

2. 15 m (21) Climb up and then right to a recess. Continue straight up to a wide rail under a roof. Traverse right until able to pull through the roof at its narrowest point. Stance just above in a vague corner.

3. 25 m (23) Step left and head up through a stepped series of roofs to a hand jam rail below the last roof. Head right over the void until able to pull up onto the face. Continue up to a spacious ledge.

4. 35 m (21) Climb up on the good orange rock, just right of a black scrappy corner, to another ledge. Move right until below a corner and featured arete about 10m higher up. Continue straight up to this corner, and then climb to the right on the featured arete until you reach the walk-off ledge. Descent: Stroll rightwards along the walk-off ledge until you can scramble down below the Black Ice Wall. Perhaps one day some strong blokes will find a way from the walk off ledge to the summit.

Start as for 'Field of Opportunity' Just right of the arête is a short groove/mini corner. Climb up the thin crack, move past the blank section, and shift right at the top.

Immediately above the narrowing between the boulder and the wall. Up to an overlap. Slightly right and up to a rail. Continue up past a rail to a sloping jug. Move slightly right onto jugs. 6m up, go diagonally left until directly above the start.

Start under a small roof. Climb through on the left to a rail. Pull through a small bulge and up the wall. Move right to a thin diagonal ramp/seam to a rail. Straight up a crack between jugs on the left/ 'Four Strong Winds' and a crack on the right /'Comes a Time'.

The line between 'Echoes and Shadows' and 'Comes a Time'. Pull through the roof at twin cracks. Straight up the wall to the big halfway rail. Climb the crack (black streak) on the right of 'Comes a Time' to the top.

Climb the arête closest to the chain.

Start off a large, flat boulder more-or-less in the centre of the wall and climb up easily to a break. Follow a slight right leaning groove to a finger rail (small cams). Traverse 1m right and use two short slanted rails and the golf ball to reach the next good rail. Traverse about 2m left until able to pull up to another good rail, and the ledge above. Move slightly right to a darker brown, steep prow and climb the left side till the top.

Consensus grading required, probably harder if you are short.

A varied route with an improbable start, and then consistently good climbing. Start about 15m right of Dogmatix, below a pocketed roof.

1. 25 m (25) Up a short easy wall, and a left-leaning break to a wide rail (#3 and #4 Camalot) below the pocketed roof. Use a deep C-shaped pocket to launch to the lip, and do some circus moves to establish on the face above. Climb up and slightly right for about 7m to a semi-hanging stance.

2. 10m (18) Straight up steep face to the ledge, again #3 and #4 Camalot useful.

3. 15m (19) Traverse left along narrow ledge for a few meters, then pull up to some underclings above the slab. Continue traversing left until able to easily pull up to the large ledge.

4. 40m (20) Start directly under a narrow roof, at about 10m height, that has two small left pointing flakes. Up to the first break, then to the narrow roof and use the flakes to gain the face above. Tend diagonally right across the face to pass the next larger roof on the right side. Continue tending slightly right and up, just left of the wide arete. Stance in a small right-facing corner on the ledge.

5. 30m (19) Climb the corner for about 2m then traverse right and up on rails. On the right edge of the long roof is a thin, left tending finger crack. Pull up into this, and then again tend right across the face to the next ledge. A short wide crack on the right then leads to a blocky ledge. Stance in a right-facing corner under a bottomless chimney about 10m up.

6. 15m (20) Climb the short steep cracks to a rectangular roof. Pass this on the right side and then step left into the chimney that leads to the top.

The route immediately left of Forked Tongue, shares anchors with this route.

Further right along the wall from Forked Tongue, in the deep gully.

Takes the steep crack through the bulge left of Snake Charmer.

Scramble up to the platform. Straight up the face to the roof. Pull through the roof (micro cams for pro) to the short, fierce crack. Continue up the featured recess then step 1.5m left and straight to the top.

Consensus grading required. Height, finger size and faith in small gear might affect how hard it feels.

Takes a central line up the buttress to right the King Cobra Prow as view from the road. An intimidating and improbable roof problem on great holds with stonking gear. Do it!

Follow the right tending break to the ledge. Launch out through a pumpy horizontal puzzle to glory jugs up the face.

Start as for Worlds Apart, but move right and follow the line of bolts to the anchor.

An alternative third pitch to Whinge taking the blank face left of the arete.

NB: This route requires very small micro nuts and was head pointed on pre-placed gear.

1. As for Whinge

2. As for Whinge

3. 25R/ X Start about 4m to the left of the arete at a good rail. Climb up a few meters to some small crimps in a thin rail. Traverse right on hard, very thin moves to an undercling flake and then climb up and left to better crimps. Continue directly up a vague break to a good rail where one moves right to join the arete.

4. As for Whinge

5. As for Whinge

Supplement the route with trad gear.

The big block on the approach path.

A long voyage, about 45m. After the 4th (and last) bolt, head left to a wide crack Rappel straight back down.

Shelf is in