★★★ Long Bolt to Freedom 17 A0

Route

1. 17 15m Climb the layback, move right just under tree and up to stance in large round cubby hole. Belay IN cubby hole.

2. 12 Move up and rightwards on easy rock and through huge natural holes. Keep moving right till you see some other glued-in bolts and some chains belonging to SKINNY LEGS AND ALL. Go up and into a stance in a cubby.

3. 17, AO(23?) This climbs left from the stance in a zigzag manner till eventually traversing left into a smooth, shallow recess which is the crux. Pull on draws if needed, A0. Up to stance in perfect cubby hole. (Note: The last abseil is from these chains)

4. 16 about 40m? Follow bolts up the huge face to chains(shares chains with SKINNY LEGS). Scramble up onto grassy ledge moving left about 10m.

5. 15 Up recess to stance on big ledge.

6. 15 Up recess to stance under roof.

7. 7 Walk right along ledge for 15m to corner past one bolt. A0 Aid for 3m and scramble to the summit.

Descent

Take 2 ropes to abseil off this route.

Abseil from summit chains to big grass ledge is about 50m. Abseil from top of pitch 4 to top pitch 3 is about 48m. The top of pitch 3 to ground is about 48m.

It is possible with 50m ropes to abseil from the top to the top of pitch 4, to top of pitch 3 and then to the ground - but this will take you (and your ropes) through a thick patch of prickly pears, and should be avoided.

Several parties have not been able to pull their ropes after the first abseil (despite the chains being perfectly adequate). Ensure the rope is threaded through the chains in a manner which minimises friction and do a pull test - BEFORE the last climber comes down.

Testing was done a few years ago on the different types of bolts and it was found that on slab, vertical or slightly overhanging routes the stainless steel Hilti HSA-KR M10x110mm can be used. Please note that for anchors of multi-pitch routes or steep routes these bolts will not be strong enough. Either the M12x110mm bolt or the Upat UKA3 glue-in capsule with 100mm stainless threaded bolts can be used. Almost all of the other glue's and readily available bolts were tested and not always found to be sufficient. Please take extra care in testing where you place your bolts as there are many hollow sections of rock. Remember that when you bolt a route you do not own the rock, and that many others would also like to climb it, so bolt it for everyone and not only yourself. Some of the routes are still bolted with unrated U-bolts and some dodgy placements can be found, but for the most part all routes are safe. If you would like more information about bolting in this area please contact the Mountain Club of South Africa.