★★★ Valkenism 22

A fairly direct line running through Valken Surprise. A bold crux pitch.

Start: Left of Valken Surprise blocky first pitch is a set of roofs running up diagonally left. Start midway beneath these roofs.

1. Climb the face, then break through the overhangs above and to the left of the big roof. Follow some overlaps up to the left, then climb directly up a lichen-covered face to gain a ledge to the right of the loose white block on Valken Surprise, and below the crux of Shock Absorber. Move 8m right and stance at a long crack.

2. Climb up into the corner above, move out right onto the arete (hidden nut placement around the corner before doing the move is strongly advisable), then pull up to a ledge on Valken Surprise leftward traverse.

3. Climb up directly behind the stance and pull through a series of small overhangs, passing right of a prominent white nose (Valken Surprise goes left of the nose). Continue up to a platform stance shared with Valken Surprise.

4. Starting Left of Valken Surprise, climb the wall above, crossing Valken Frontal and finish up the steep wall left of Frontal's final pitch.

No bolting.