★★★ New Ground Breaking Route 22

Another fine line, this time with three very different pitches, however plenty of air and arete.

Start: right of the large platform on which PGA starts ( and the start of the second pitch of HGA) is a stand of tall bushes which marks the base of a beautiful, but slightly intimidating wall. The first pitch starts about 3m right of the platform, maybe 2m left of a very vague buttress.

1. A committing and sustained starting sequence. head to a thin rail (at time of opening had grass on the left end), then up to an open pocket maybe a bit larger than a fist. Above the pockets is an obvious rail, then onto the much larger ledge above. Step right 2m, then pretty much straight for a while on big holds to a stance underneath an overhang, on top of a bit of a tower.

2. From the stance climb diagonally left to an obvious protrusion that marks the base of the arete. Join HGA for maybe 3m until the crack left of it emerges, then follow this until a right facing lay-back crack takes you to a good ledge capped by a rounded, featured crack. Confidently follow this to the Sea-saw ledge for a stance. Best use the large thread thru for a stance

3. Immediately left and above the large thread thru is a thin vertical crack (facing left). Follow this and exit right, then up to a dodgy looking/sounding/feeling but obvious laptop sized flake left of the arete. Continue onto the arete, then up it to the base of the right tending overhang above. Take the right side of the arete to a left tending break to gain the arete, then straight onto a vertical crack on the face and continue up to the top.

No bolting.