Nodos en The God No Wall

The biggest steep wall at Boven and home to most of the hardest climbs. Probably SA‟s best sport crag. The sector starts where the crag becomes much bigger and steeper! For some superb views of the climbs, at the top of the gulley, walk along the small path that leads along the cliff top – take your camera!

HEIGHT: 25 - 40 metres

Scramble up roots just left of 'Rodan'. Harder from the ledge after that.

The leftmost line up the long leaning face... At the ledge 8 metres up, look out over the forest, take a deep breath then immerse yourself in 25 metres of pumping orange rock-karate. Opened at 34 but 33 with new sequence on crux.

📹 Video

Boven‟s 'King Line'. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10-move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. It is possible to move off-line to a jug far right just before the crux but this is a kop-out and would be graded 30/31.

The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! The only line with ring bolts. Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29.

Start up 'Monster' and move right at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'man trap' then finger jugs diagonally to the chains. 70 m rope needed. Low in the grade if you use all the latest tricks. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag.

Not the Steve McClure 9a but pretty cool. Climbs 'The Beast' until 2/3 height then shoot straight up the strenuous crack. A nice variation on the original. 31 if you can get the jams right? use a 70m rope

Start 10m right of 'Monster'. Continue straight up above 'The Beast' man trap on a sea of crimps and dead points. Mountain Club of South Africa Bolts

A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. A bit of everything from technical arête, burly roof, gnarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roof section - that way drag is negligible. There are half height lower off chains. 70 m rope needed.

Start in the middle of God-No, a few meters left of 'Freak Show'. Climb the steep arete to a technical crux and bust through to chains under the massive roof.

Open project. Extension of BBB through endless roofs.

Open project, an extension of 'Freak Show', through the massive overhangs. Only 2-3 metres unsolved to date. Could avoid the 'Freakshow' crux by branching left off 'The Juggernaut'.

Start 2 m left of 'Freak On'. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs.

Shares the first 3 bolts of 'Freak On' and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt (which has a fixed quickdraw).

Mega classic! Crimps to the ledge then move right then take the rightwards slanting weakness and much pump. The route remains dry during heavy rain but may seep a little.

A two bolt boulder problem. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won‟t let you climb anywhere else.

Climb 'Chocolate Éclair' then continue over the roof with a grunt, then up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. The route remains dry during heavy rain.

Open project through the massive horizontal roofs above 'Who Needs Lucky Cows', involves a Font 8A+ dyno..

25 if you can use your feet. This route starts in the corner just right of 'Chocolate Éclair'. Much better than it looks, a great climb. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging corner behind the trees 20 metres right of 'Freak On'. Dry in all weather.

Sustained with lots and lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge up and right of the start of 'Dungeons and Dragons'. Climb left to get into then up the corner of 'Dungeons and Dragons', after 3-4 bolts, break out right through the small roof. Dance up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of 'The Blackcountry Butcher'. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof.

Starts off the same ledge as 'Tokolosie', or from the ground. Up the orange vertical wall past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, take a rest at the ledge then up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Don‟t get butchered. Solid at the grade.

This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of 'Jack of All Trades' with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch, it is more fun to break it up. A 50m rope will work as all the stances have rap anchors. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago.

The crackline on the left of big smooth 35-metre wall. The original God No classic. Benchmark 8a. Hard for the short. 70 m rope needed.

The route up the middle of the face, was SA‟s hardest climb for many years and still one of the hardest lines in Boven. Solid at the grade, opened at 33. Steel fingers and ace footwork are required. 70 m rope needed.

The one that killed the 'Jabberwocky'. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of 'Jabberwocky', shares first bolt with 'Hell Yeah'. An unbelievable climb, one of best sport pitches in SA. Need a 70 m rope.

A very long climb which takes the long corner immediately right of 'Vorpal Sword' (shares the first bolt). Not sustained but a superb line. A popular route. Belayer must keep rope close at the 3rd crux to avoid impact with the ledge! Need a 70 m rope

Starts about 10m right of 'Jabberwocky'. A low crux then fun climbing but a bit ledgy.

Between 'Rock-Chuka-Chick' and 'Big Bad Wolf'. NB: This route is 36m long. 70m+ The belayer needs to climb up onto the first ledge in order to lower the climber. MCSA bolts.

10m right of 'Rock-Chuka-Chick' is another looong route, this one with some fingery technical cruxes.

Start up the first 5 bolts of 'Big Bad Wolf' then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A rest before the crux detracts from the climb. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down.

Some pleasant face climbing leads to a high crux that if solved correctly is rather easy for the grade. This route is fairly long at ±35 meters.

Start on u-bolts as per 'Alice in Grannyland' and sneak around the right of the arête onto hangers till the top.