★★★ The Final Frontier 22

Furthest right route on cliff. Steep and sustained, with Pitches 3-5 being particularly excellent. Recommended strategy is to rap in and climb out in a day. Start: On the large ledge at the short pillar.

1. 25m (20, 3B) Start from the pillar, up past 3 bolts and then straight up to the ledge, via a short left facing corner at the top. Belay at bolt by flake.

2. 15m (20, 3B) Start a few meters right of stance, up past two bolts, and traverse left at third bolt into a break that is followed to ledge with bolted stance.

3. 35m (19, 1B) Traverse up and right on grey rock until to a traverse level (~8m above height of belay). Traverse right at a good foot ledge past one bolt to reach a diagonal break in orange rock. Follow this to a bolted stance. The Banger Pitches

4. 25m (21, 2B) More or less straight up to a tricky move past the second bolt to a rail. Traverse ~2m left and up to standing platform at base of recess. Continue up a few meters to stance at a jagged rail.

5. 30m (22, 1B) From stance start slightly right and up to the roof. Traverse left using underclings to the left edge of roof. Move ~1m left and up to a tricky, reachy move past a bolt. Reach back right to a finger crack over roof. Follow the superb leaning corner to below a very wide break in the top roof. At this height traverse left on exposed awesomeness and then pull up to a comfortable ledge.

6. 20m (19) Climb the corner at back of ledge, then traverse right below the roof to a ledge. Continue straight up via some long, testing moves to gain another ledge where you traverse right. Pull up carefully over grey blocks (the projecting one is musical) to a ledge. Stance on right side at base of short corner.

7. 15m (20) A short burly sequence up and right using a short vertical crack and sidepulls further right leads to easier ground. Up and left to a vertical crack system. Follow this to another ledge.

8. 20m (20, 1B) Up corner crack at back of the ledge (punchy start) to a hanging flake in the corner. This feature is solid enough to gingerly climb on, but DOT NOT place gear behind it (hence the bolt up and right). Follow the corner then exit right to platform – there is reasonable left of the single bolt.

9. 20m (19) Pull through the steep V-shaped feature above bolt and up a recess to mantle onto a small ledge on the right. Pull up to a roof and traverse left to a wide rail. A long move here gains the face, then tend up and right to finish up the blunt arete (to the right of a vegetated shoot). Belay at thread at ledge. Walk right ~10m past a big boulder to the right side of the roof (~3m above the ground).

10. 40m (16) One long move to get established above the overlap. Follow the left tending break to a ledge. Traverse ~4m to left end of ledge. Continue straight up easy ground from ~10m, then tend up and left to the top. Bolted belay on the left.