Nodo |
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Avon Gorge
Trad and sport climbing in the centre of Bristol |
Sea Walls Area |
Sea Walls Area |
Unkown Wall |
Sea Walls Area Unkown Wall |
E3 6a
The Halcyon Days of the Bourgeoisie
Follow the furthest left-hand line of pegs in Avon gorge. |
Spool to Tape |
E2 6a Quietly Confident |
E1 5a Hard Labour |
VS 4c
Aasvogel
A route sadly maligned by the guidebook. The vegetation has been cut back and at its present levels is part of the character of the route (and a helpful runner). The opening moves are serious though not highly technical. The crack above the hawthorn bush is better and more useful than it looks at first glance. The route packs a lot of climbing into a short distance and should be better known. |
E2 5c Curtain Call |
E2 5b
Wintersol
A good and slightly bold pitch that follows the staggered right-facing groove in the wall left of Desecrator. Start on the Desecrator starting ledge. Take the wall and groove to a slight horizontal break just below the capping overhang of the groove. Make a thin traverse right to slot and then move up to ledge and peg. Head leftwards to a crack and finish up it. |
E2 5c Stage Fright |
HVS 5a
Desecrator
Tucked away high above the traffic on the extreme left of the Unknown Wall is this exciting and very exposed pitch. Approach via a vegetated path that rises up leftwards under the wall from the base of the face. Follow the path for 100m to a final steep step which ends at a good vegetated ledge and small tree belay on the right, with a cave 5m above and right. Move up a small rib to a spike at its top and step right to a ledge beneath the left side of the overhung cave. Climb very steeply through the overhang on loose looking, but good solid holds to a small tree. Move up to a peg and then follow thin cracks to the top. |
E3 6a Klib |
E3 6a Klib (Cave Start) |
E3 5c Castillos des Arenas |
E4 5c Chalk and Cheese |
E4 5c
The Bilk
The large flake in the description has fallen away so the traverse out left and thus the route will be considerably altered. Other rockfall out left too. |
E3 5b ★★ The Blik |
E2 5b
The Blik
A stern test of both mind and strength on one of Avon's most impressive walls. Start about 45m up the path from the base of the crag at a well-worn gearing-up spot.
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E5 6a
Men of the World
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E4 6a
Appendix
An enjoyable appendage to the climbs on the Unknown Wall. The crux arête is avoidable so only warrents the grade if adhering to the true line. Possibly better done in one long pitch.
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E3 5c Urban Gorilla |
E4 6a Urban Gorilla Direct |
VS 4c
Unknown Wall
A shy gem of a climb that builds to a dramatic climax in its upper reaches. The first pitch is vegetated but the holds are clean. Start at the well-worn gearing-up spot as for The Blik.
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HVS 4c Unknown Wall Direct |
E2 5c Unknown Slab |
E3 6c
The Orang Outang out of Jungle Book
Stick clip the thread first? Then dyno from the stance at the back of the cave to the lip! F.A. done without pre-clipping the thread. |
Sea Walls Area |
Exploding Galaxy Wall |
Sea Walls Area Exploding Galaxy Wall |
E4 6a Reckless |
E5 6a
This Flight Tonight
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E3 5c
★★ Dragon
Large rockfall at the base. Potentially no longer possible/very dangerous to climb P1. [March 2021]
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E4 6b
The Real St Werburghs
F7b, short hard climbing, past two staples. |
E6 6b
Unknown Pleasures
Large rockfall at the base. Potentially no longer possible/very dangerous to climb P1. [March 2021]
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E3 5c
★★★ Unknown Pleasures (Final Pitch)
Alternative finish from the hanging stance on Yellow Edge. |
E4 6a
★★★ Amanita Muscarina
Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mould of "modern classic". Start 20m up from the base of the wall on a ledge next to a short slab and below a precarious looking flake.
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E6 6b
★ Psychopath Way
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E4 6a
★★ Hammer Horror
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E5 6a
Zombie Nation
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E3 5c Yellow Edge |
E3 5c Quip U for Leisure |
E3 5c
★★★ Captain Swing
Exposure and fine well-protected climbing are the main components of this memorable high-rise pitch. Start as for Yellow Edge.
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E3 5c
★ The Haystack
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E5 6b
Imploding Galaxy
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E6 6b
★★★ Tour de France
Intense climbing that builds to a decisive pitch which battles up the thin seam and shear wall left of the top of the ramp. Start as for Yellow Edge.
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7c+
★★★ Was It You?
A sport-style single pitch up the wall right of the diagonal break of Amanita Muscarina's third pitch. Start from the bolted belay at the start of the third pitch of Tour de France that is best reached via an awkward abseil from the top of the ramp or by starting up the lower pitches of Tour de France. Protection is provided by a collection of bolts, pegs and a large cam. On the left take the thin wall past a break and up a crack to a ledge (cam). The wall above leads to a thin break from where a move utilising a slot reaches a sequence of hard moves right to finish at a bolted belay. Abseil off or top out. |
E6 6c
★★ It Wasn't Me
7c/7c+. Climb the easy opening sequence of 'Was It You’ to the thin break and natural peg and compose yourself for a direct assault up the holdless wall where the parent route wimps-out leftwards. At the thin horizontal seam make a ‘baby bouncer’ between the parent’s bolt and the peg on Tour de France. The final attack is made without any protection until the final bolt of the parent can be clipped, however a slightly safer option is to first, tenuously clip the peg on Tour de France with a long reach out right. Finish at the in-situ lower off. |
E4 6b ★ Duncan Goes to Clevedon |
Sea Walls Area |
Unknown Buttress |
Sea Walls Area Unknown Buttress |
HVS 5a Unknown Gully |
E2 5b
Take Five
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E3 5c
★ Hang Ten
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E6 6b ★ Smog of Things |
E2 5b
The Pusher
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E3 5c
★★ New Horizons
The huge arete on the right-hand side of the lower wall is a good but slightly bold route. Start 3m to the left of the arete.
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Superstition |
E6 6a Poked Off |
E4 6a
Hocus Pocus
The towering face right of the arete is taken centrally by this superb and sustained route. Start just to the left of the large corner at the base of the face.
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E5 6a Conjuring Trick |
E1 5b
★ M2
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E1 5b
★★ M1
A fabulous pitch, loaded with a great deal of varied climbing. Start beneath the large corner/groove at the base of the face. Follow the blank corner/groove to ledges before heading right along a break to the base of a scoop. A few difficult moves up the right-hand side of the scoop, peg, gain the base of a right-leaning groove which leads to a ledge and easier ground. |
E4 6a
Motorway Madness
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E4 6a Electra Glide Direct Start |
E4 6a
★ Electra Glide
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E3 5c/6a
★★ Ladder of Desire
An enthralling wall-pitch composed of numerous testing parts and culminating in an exciting finish. High in the grade. Start at a blank section of wall 7m right of the long corner groove of M1. Make some bouldery moves up the initial wall before moving left and climbing a corner/groove to a break and two pegs. Make bold moves rightwards up the wall to a ledge. From a short crack on the left, move up left to pockets that lead to a concrete block. Move right to a narrow groove and climb this and the wall above with difficulty past a pocket and bolt on the left to better finishing holds that lead to the ramp. |
E5 6b Cuban Eyes |
E6 6b The Rebel Yell |
E3 6a
Pigeon's Nest
Easy slab to funky groove climbing where a new staple protects. Escape rightwards after clipping old bolt for 2nd. |
E7 6c
Crown of Thorns
Hard rockover onto heel hook and slopey nothings for hands. One poor peg protects. |
E6 6c
★ I'm 55
Hard crimping passed pair of pegs, then scary upper section. Has been done ground up. |
E2 6a
Non-stick
E4 without the bolt The route now has a lower bolt so is a clip up |
E6 7a
★ The Enchanted Gordon
First peg replaced after failure which resulted in lengthy groundfall. Upper peg atrocious. Was E7 6c until undercut came off. Now pushing Eng 7a. |
E3 6b
Slap Stick
E5 without the pegs |
E5 6c
Jimmy Lowe
Very hard (and dirty) crimping past single ring bolt to top out of Slap Stick. |
E2 5a Make It Up as You Go Along |
7b+
★ 56 Is The New 55
Just to the right of Jimmy Lowe. Thin hard moves to start. 3 bolts |
Sea Walls Area |
Upper Walls |
Sea Walls Area Upper Walls |
E5 6a Straight and Narrow |
E3 6a
★★★ Them
A thrilling pitch combining a head-spinning position with faultless wall-climbing. Start at the top of the ramp. Traverse left for 3m along the break to a tiny ledge. Climb slightly rightwards up the wall, past 2 pegs, to good nuts in the cracks above. Move up leftwards with difficulty to the base of an open groove and a peg on the right and proceed up the groove to where it fades. Finish up the fingery final wall passing a peg. |
E4 6b Keep on Going |
E5 6a
★ Already Gone
E5 if hidden wire found. |
E6 5c Already Gone Direct Start |
E6 6a Rising Son |
E4 6b
★★ Solar Power
Lovely climb on great quality rock. Climb the Slender Norris crack to a shrubbery (which may benefit from the occasional prune). Place some good gear as high as you can reach and then traverse left on good crimps to a thinner crack that offers quite little in terms of gear and holds. Work your way up to a break to find good hold and and a reassuring peg, then make long reachy moves up and right to gain a shake-out and the biggest, fattest peg anybody has ever placed. Somehow find a way to get stood up in the seemingly blank scoop above and tip-toe delicately right to an exit where a belay station can (eventually) be found. |
E5 6c Slender Norris |
E4 6b Big Wednesday |
E2 5c
★★★ New Horizons II
A good pitch that takes on a fine corner-crack. Start at a right-facing flake crack 10m down from the top of the ramp. Climb the corner past some difficult moves midway, to where it ends at a short steep headwall. Traverse right to better holds and easier ground leading back left to belays. The short headwall can be climbed directly via a long move at 6a. |
E6 6b An Illusion of Love |
E5 6b
★★ Lost Illusions
F7b climbing |
E6 6b Bold as Love |
E3 6a
★★ Mirage
An upper wall testpiece that features a well-protected crux. Start at a right-leaning crack, the base of which disappears into a hole in the ramp. Follow the crack pleasantly to a hand-ledge. Continue more steeply to where it thins, and make a couple of urgent pulls up the wall just left of the crack to an easy finish up a tiny corner. |
E5 6b Raindoctor |
E4 5c ★★★ Arms Race |
E5 6b
Street Life
Some thin moves and a long reach up to the pegs at the break for a semi-rest before launching up the headwall just right of the Arms Race ring bolt. |
E7 6c Living on the Skyline |
E5 6b
★★★ Low Profile
Takes a disjointed crackline. Grade depends on finish used. The LH finish is best and hardest at E5. The original finish traverses R 20' below the top to the arete and is E4. Superb and very sustained wall climbing. Start at pockets in the wall just left of a small overhang, 4m right of the start of Arms Race. Climb up the pockets to meet the base of a short right trending crack. Climb the crack to a peg and step right to a thinner crack. Climb this past another peg to a move right and a shakeout on the blunt arete. Move up to a peg and then climb the steepening wall past a peg on the left to the top |
E6 6b Low Police Profile |
E6 6b Higher Profile |
E2 5b
★ Us
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E2 5b
What about Me?
Start 7m left of the broken fissure. Start up the deteriorating crack that forms the lower R/H element of the crossing cracks that make a vague 'X', poor gear. Make use of features to the right, to gain the rightward arching crack crossed by Rancho, the upper R/H element of the 'X'. Follow this to it's end and proceed upwards to the borehole belay. |
E6 6c
★ Um Bongo
An eliminate up the lower wall between What About Me and Rancho Cucamonga. Start behind the budleia (if it's still there) and gain and pinch a poor sidepull. Placing the other foot on, dynamically gain an intermediate crimp and then go again out right for a bigger but dirty flat hold. Less positive holds above and to the right of this lead to a big move from a finger jug to the sanctuary of a niche and good wires. From the good break above (good hex and or cams) finish more direct to the left of Rancho, or to suit. |