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Main Wall Central

  • Contexto de grado: UK
  • Ascensiones: 8

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Vías

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Grado Vía
  1. 4b, 20m.

  2. 5c, 20m.

  3. 6c, 35m.

  1. 4c, 25m.

  2. 5a, 18m.

  3. 4c, 27m.

  4. Easy, 9m.

An exposed and run-out pitch that takes on the blank central section of the pink wall, high on the left side of the face. Start via a scramble to a good ledge directly below the wall.

  1. 5a, 30m. Move up a rib and wall on the left to ledges (belay of Krapp's Last Tape and Main Wall Eliminate on the right). Move up and traverse left until a rib can be climbed past a spike to a bulge and peg. Pull up into the groove above the bulge, peg, and climb it until a belay can be taken at some horizontal breaks.

  2. 6b, 25m. Move up to the pink wall and clip two bolts above (on Think Pink). Move left and then up a line of holds into the middle of the wall. Climb rightwards, bolt, and then up, bolt, before traversing right into a groove (on Think Pink), bolt. Hard moves out left into a shallow niche are followed by a big run out above it which ends at a peg and better holds. A short bulging section gains a belay ledge and tree on the right.

  3. 6b, 13m. Climb a slim groove past a peg and make a long move up the wall above to another peg. Finish leftwards.

Climb Pink Ginsane direct without the traverse into Think Pink.

The central line of weakness in the suspended white and pink wall is brilliant. Start via a scramble to a good ledge directly below the wall, as for Pink Ginsane.

  1. 5a, 30m. As for Pink Ginsane, then traverse right to a stance at a quarry spike and bolt at the top off Krapp's Last Tape.

  2. 6a, 25m. Move left from the spike belay to a steep wall below a small overhang with two bolts in it. Climb with difficulty past the bolts and over the left end of the overhang to an easing and a peg at the base of a long groove. Climb the groove to a bolt and stretch past it to a better series of cracks that are climbed to a belay ledge and tree.

  3. 5c, 14m. Move left along the break to below a right-slanting thin crack with a peg near its base. Climb past the peg and continue a short distance before better holds lead leftwards up the wall away from the crack to the top and a tree belay.

  1. 6b, 25m.

  2. 6b, 12m.

An Avon rite of passage. Good climbing with a bold feel, although the gear improves as height is gained. Start at a peg and nut belay on a high ledge reached via the initial 9m of Pink Ginsane's first pitch. Take the easy-angled groove above the belay to a peg. Step up above the peg and pull out left onto the wall, good small nut. Move up and bridge right to a point below an overhang with pegs below it. Pull over the overhang, good nut in borehole, to a peg before moving down right and then up to an overhang, peg and another good nut. Traverse left below the overhang past a peg to a stance at a quarry spike and bolt. Finish up Think Pink or abseil off.

An intimidating pitch featuring both delicate and strenuous climbing. Start at the peg and nut belay of Krapp's Last Tape. Climb up rightwards past a peg and up a shallow corner to an overhang, pegs. Pull over the overhang at a tiny corner, 2 pegs, and continue to a bolt. Steep climbing through the overhangs above on reasonable holds gains a break and bolt above. Head up to a shallow depression with two bolts in its left wall and climb it to its end, from where moves left reach an abseil station.

A high quality climb on very good rock, with a lot of fixed protection. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line. From the left-hand side of the ledge, climb boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs which may be missing. Move up to a peg in the wall above and traverse left to a small corner which leads to a hole, thread, peg and good nut. Move up to the overhang above, peg, and make a difficult move to get established above it, peg. Climb the weakness above to the shallow depression with two bolts in its left wall and climb it to its end, from where moves left reach an abseil station.

  1. 6a, 40m.

  2. 5a, 25m.

  1. 6b, 35m.

  2. 5b, 25m.

  1. 5a, 27m.

  2. 5a, 25m.

  3. 5a, 25m.

Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating rockscape. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.

  1. 5a, 25m. From the left-hand side of the ledge move boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs which may be missing. Traverse right, beneath a line of overhangs past a number of pegs to a ledge under a shattered looking wall. Climb up rightwards across the wall to a corner and take this to a peg and nut belay on a slab, 5m below the main line of overhangs.

  2. 4c, 32m. Climb up past a peg to the overhang and move over it on good holds. Head rightwards and up a broken rib before climbing back leftwards under a line of overhangs until it is possible to gain the base of a wide depression. Climb up the middle of the depression, to an exit left at the top.

  1. 5a, 27m.

  2. 5b, 30m.

  1. 6a, 35m.

  2. 5c, 30m.

  1. 5b, 33m.

  2. 5a, 27m.

A bold, airy and super sustained voyage. Start at a small tree on a ledge down and right of Malbogies.

  1. 5b, 23m. Move up the blunt rib on the left to gain the right end of an overlap (small cams in the break). Move up right past the right side of the overlap (peg), and then back left to a side-pull and wire. Head up to join and follow Malbogies to its first stance.

  2. 5b, 28m. Down climb from the stance for 5m and traverse left on good holds before moving up to good small wires. Move left again and then down to a small overhung niche. Reach left to good holds and move up to a peg. Climb a groove (peg) to the overhang and traverse left for 6m to a peg and large cam belay.

  3. 5b, 26m. Traverse back right for 3m to a gap in the overhangs and make a puzzling move up to get established above them. Climb the groove and wall on its left past various pegs to an overhang and move out left around the blunt arete. Finish up the easier wall.

  1. 5c, 30m.

  2. 6a, 35m.

  1. 5c, 40m.

  2. 5b, 30m.

  1. 6a, 20m.

  2. 5c, 35m.

  1. 5b, 20m.

  2. 5b, 35m.

  1. 5b, 27m.

  2. 5c, 9m.

  3. 5a, 27m.

  1. 5b, 25m.

  2. 5b, 20m.

  3. 4a, 15m.

  1. 5c, 25m.

  2. 4c, 18m.

  3. 5b, 15m.

  1. 5c, 25m.

  2. 5b, 20m.

  3. 5c, 15m.

F7c climbing.

A surprising classic up the obvious black streaks (may be dry even if they look wet), with a lot of "easier than it looks" climbing. Climb up the lower flakey section with a bold move to the bulge, continuing more easily to pink rock below a thin flake. Layback this positively past the drooping spike to the roof and cams, pull over this with delicacy to the next roof. Step right into a sheer groove which is also easier than it looks, swinging right onto good holds then a final balance move to a spike and new bolt before stepping down to the abseil point.

  1. 6a, 27m.

  2. 5b, 15m.

  3. 5b, 25m.

  1. 5c, 27m.

  2. 5a/b, 18m.

  3. 5b, 18m.

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Martin Crocker

Fecha: 2017

número ISBN: 9780957281547

A definitive rock climbing guidebook covering the Avon Gorge, situated in the centre of Bristol, detailing Suspension Bridge Area, Main Wall Area, Sea Walls Area, and Leigh Woods Area.

Autor(es): Steve Broadbent

Fecha: 2024

número ISBN: 9781913167127

A selective guidebook describes the best sport climbing areas in the southern half of England and Wales, describing 101 crags and over 4,600 routes covering Carmarthen Bay, the Gower Peninsula, Swansea Bay, the Welsh Valleys, Gilwern, the Wye Valley, Avon, north side of Cheddar Gorge, Portland, Lulworth, Swanage, Devon, and Cornwall.

Autor(es): Mark Glaister

Fecha: 2022

número ISBN: 9781873341889

10 top climbing areas of the southwest of England - Wye Valley, Avon and Somerset, North Devon, Culm Coast, Inland Cornwall, Atlantic Coast, West Penwith, The Lizard, Inland Devon and Torbay

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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