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Estoy de acuerdo
Climb a small hidden groove 3 metres right of the large roofed groove, and move left on a ledge above the crack of Coda. Climb up on good holds slightly leftwards and then back right to stand above a bramble ledge. Now climb directly past a peg, the break a hollow sounding flake. Pull up above the bush to the last moves of bottle buttress to a tree belay.
Small Wall - An existing route with original peg and new tat. Climbs the right face of Tiswas (HS 4b) to the upper break, then finishes up that route. The route compliments the other three E grade routes at the crag, now it has been cleaned.
Intimidating and pumpy pitch with a bold start from under the low overhang.
Ascend towards the overhang and then manoeuvrer to the left, passing beneath it to reach a diagonal break on the wall. Follow this break until you come across a vertical seam. Proceed upwards along the seam to finish
This logical extension of the venerable traverse of Clan Union has been in the pending tray since the opening up of the right hand side of the buttress with the ascent of Lymbic Dystrophy and Rock on Ruby. Consequently the new climbing is the section between Lymbic Dystrophy to the point where it meets the original start for Hell Gates. Pitch 1: 22m Climb Lymbic Dystrophy to the initial ramp of Rock on Ruby. Belay in the niche (small wires and small cams). Pitch 2: 21m. Ascend 3m to an old peg in the break. Climb leftwards along the break, intially across an easy bay, then far more thoughtfully after the rib on Heironymous, dropping a little below the break itself to maintain the grade. Well protected for both leader and second. Pitch 3 and 4 are as Clan Union
A new link up now the bridge shoring up is complete.
4 pitches
1 and 2 as for Hell Gates
3, traverse right from the belay, following the ledge, hexes useful, to the bottom of Hieronymous pitch 4, hidden thread belay.
4, Hieronymous pitch 4.
New abseil station by tree stump down to the right looking in.
60's reach the ground.
Pruners and gloves de riguer.
Right side of the buttress, crossing the lines of Limbic Dystrophy and Rock on Ruby to create a trio of worthwhile routes. The first pitch is directly under the line of the abseil descent, providing an opportunity for inspection and further cleaning.
Start 7m right of the start of Limbic Dystrophy at a pair of metal reinforcing rods.
Pitch 1 30m 4b/c Climb up and trend slightly left on compact rock passing two small bays (peg). Cross cleaned ledges to a pocketed wall and traverse right 3m using pockets (peg). Climb the pocketed wall up a slight groove to an interesting hole (old peg above). Climb compact rock to a large rad rhomboidally-shaped rock (nut and cam belays abound).
[An alternative is to start up Limbic Dystrophy and at the slab below the initial arete to trend rightwards to join the first pitch at the pocketed wall.]
Pitch 2 30m 5a To the left is a right-facing corner. Climb this (peg) using an inconspicuous pocket with interesting moves to reach a break. Climb the groove/arete of Limbic Dystrophy then continue directly up the arete above in a splendid position. Belay at the large ash tree.
An amusing alternative is to start by climbing onto the red rhomboid and athletically ascend the white wall.
From the base of the prow climb leftwards past a long pocket to the cave. With thread runners, leave the cave and take the blank looking face to the right to pocket and thread runners. Move back right and finish up the grove to double ring belay.
