Nodos en North East Outcrops & Angus

All of the East coast of Scotland goodness.

North facing sea cliff on good sandstone. Toilets available at the car park. Very short walk in (less than 2 mins).

Eastern section of the cliff, directly below the car park. To the immediate left as you walk onto the beach area.

Right of the arete. Climb straight up, without using features on the arete. Last hold's a big reach.

Start slightly right of Orange Peel. Follow the rightward trending flakes.

Up the finger crack to the right of Route One, finishing by traveling left to Route One's finish.

A smooth section of the wall to the right of Ginger Snap, almost directly underneath a small shelf situated just below the top of the cliff (where the climb ends).

Another thin crack line, about ten paces right of Ginger Snap.

The overhung section of wall to the right of Thumper. Sparse holds and minimal protection.

The next crack line along to the right. To the left of the next set of decent holds.

The clear line of flakes bearing to the right.

Right of Flakey Wall. Start at the bottom left of the overhang, and progress gradually to the right to finish as Skelp.

The direct line straight up the overhanging face to the wall above. Finishes at the same place as Route Two

The undercut crack line to the right of Skelp. Once you reach the bulge look to the right to make progress, then continue up the crack to the top.

Often sandy - bring a soft brush. Start as per King Swing, then traverse right along the bulge until you reach a vertical seam. Work your way up this, until you achieve the chimney to the finish.

Route will need cleaning prior to ascent - it seems to collect filth at an accelerate pace through some kind of dark magic. Right of the cave there is an overhanging wall with a slab at it's base. Climb up it.

The arete above the beach approximately 15 paces right of Power Struggle.

The roofed in corner to the immediate right of Solo Wall's dumpy arete. Aim for an incut niche in the corner where the wall transitions into the roof, then move left out onto the slabby wall to proceed to the finish.

UPDATE 6/7/2017 - the descent path has disappeared in gorse thickets, and the top out of Middle Muddle Direct is now a slope of gorse bushes, making for an excruciating top out. Just to the west (right as you look at Orange Wall), there is a tidal bay linked to Orange Wall by a cave. The climbing to the right and left of the cave is average to outright naff (past Sea Witch to the right, there are a number of climbs not listed here. The rock is substandard and very brittle). The back of the Cave is very entertaining!

At the left side of the left wall as you look at it is a line of hollow flakes. Climb up them to the top, veering left to avoid a grassy section by taking a vertical crack.

Follow the thin crack next to a flake, straight up through the roof to the finish. Very brittle rock.

Climb the easy flakes, traversing right to a depression in the rock. Once reached, progress up the obvious groove to the top.

Start a few paces right of the flakes of MM Groove, at a crack that runs through the bulge above onto a ledge. Follow the obvious crack to the top.

The steep wall to the right of MM Direct. About half way up there's a large jug to look forward to, before working through the last few ledges and up the final section of steep wall.

Straight up the chimney at the back to a finish past a roof.

The bulging crack and corner on the left hand side of the back wall. Word on the street is the tricky start is often aided, dropping the grade to 5a.

The route starts a couple of feet to the right of Hernia Corner. Tough reachy moves throughout the wall and roof make for an exciting climb. Take pro of an equivalent size to a WC hex 5 and a Rock 5 for the roof section, which finishes with a long reach right to a spike. Finish up the arete bearing right.

Runout in the upper section - ground-fall potential. To the right of a buttress is a pair of cracks. Climb the left one until reaching the bay, whereupon you trend leftwards up a thin and fingery wall to the finish.

Pumpy moves up the right-hand crack of the pair to the bay. Trend out rightwards to a mantle-shelf finish. Gobbles up cams like sweets in the lower sections.

The chimney to the right of the pair of vertical cracks that make up the previous two routes. Watch out for the tight chockstone (crux) on your way up.

Often needs a good clean prior to climbing. Left of an overhanging crack on the right-hand side of the cave, up a 'flake-nose' and through the brittle wall above. Very poor pro throughout on less than average quality rock.

The overhung crack to the right of Sea Witch

Non tidal - reached at any time from the beach.

The corner at the left of the overhung bay to the ledge above, finishing through the tricky roof.

Right of The Gripper. Climb the overhung wall straight up to the small overhang, then power through to the left before working right towards the top. Bring pro to the equivalent of a Friend 0 and a Friend 3.

Climb the bulging corner to the right of Surf Nazis, following it roughly up to a break via a pocket. Pull through onto a block, then finish up to the right.

Lethal ground-fall potential. Climb the edge of the incut recess right of Aesthetic Ape and left of the features of Orange Ape. Use a wobbly horizontal spike to reach a thin crack which leads to the finish.

Follow the undercut corner at the back left of the bay.

Follow the right edge of the large flake feature approximately 5 paces left of Bat's Wall.Make the ledge above, then reach up to a pinch at the right end of a feature. Levitate to a series of slopers, then follow to the finish above.

Crack line at the back right of the wall. Start direct, or up the shelf as an easier option.

Often damp. Right of Bat's Wall, work your way up the gradually leftward migrating crack line from the depths of the cave. Once you achieve the sloping rest, follow the vertical crack to the roof, the work left on upsettingly poor undercut holds to the groove and the finish.

The overhung shallow groove line to a ledge with a large flake, traveling up left and through the roof section on jugs to a rightward arete and the finish.

The arete to the right of Noddy Machine. Climb it.

The vaguely ovoid shaped groove with a mini roof at the top, just right of Noddy Machine. The left side of the groove is the arete for Jaded Arete. Finish right as per Border Crossing.

The shallow groove to the right of Triangular Groove. Follow the groove to the flake on the right wall, then head directly up to the finish via a vertical crack.

The big dihedral right of the groove. Bring a brush.

Just to the right of Borderline. Climb directly to a jug, employ yoga/contortion/dislocation to stand up in said jug, then straight up the vertical crack to a small ledge and the top.

The right hand side of the arete to the right of Palmist. Confusingly, start on a tiny step on the lower left side of the arete. Once you reach the left facing corner take a deep breath, then tackle the roof to easier going and the finish.

To the right of The Prophet. Climb the front face of the bulge towards the feature above that supposedly looks like a map of Africa. Place gear out left before brazenly climbing the sparsely protected face.

Climb the next arete to the right pretty much any which way you can. Get inventive with your pro, or it can get alarmingly run out.

The left-most corner of the big buttress.

Up Left to a flake, then out right and head directly up the centre.

As the name implies, the right corner of the big buttress.

The arete between Centre and Right. Eliminate - keep your eyes front and centre.

Directly up the rib to the right of Right. No pro before the crux at half height.

To the right of Right's corner, the first groove.

The second groove to the right of Right's corner, passing the obvious and awkward bulge to an equally awkward top out on slick grass.

At the back of a little bay to the right of Bing-Bong, in the corner where the wall shifts direction. Climb the corner.

The clear vertical crack line, right of the corner of Gnib-Gnob.

The next decent looking crack, a few feet to the right of Pigmy Shrew.

The corner and slot away to the right of Bank Vole.

Right of The Weem, you will find a shallow groove that faces left. Go up it.

Like The Wobble, but to it's right and marginally more difficult.

An 80m traverse taking in all of the sights, starting from near The Gripper and finishing on the grass near Thud. If in doubt, look for chalk off-piste from the main routes. Taxing in duration if not in difficulty. Little red swim suit optional.

Non tidal - Loose rock apart from the bottom bay area containing The Nest (E2 6a).

Up at the top left end of the wall, there is a short chimney/corner. Climb it.

Look for the wall down the hill a short distance from Slimline covered in short crack features. Loose, friable rock abounds. Treat like a solo with the encumbrance of rope, a harness and necessary provisions.

The arete at the end of the wall. Climb it direct.

Start at the arete of Tall Order, then migrate right up a chimney full of loose rock.

Direct up the centre/right graffiti covered slab to the right of Tom's Wall.

Head right until you come across a little bay made up of a corner and roof (The Nest). Climb the arete to the left of the corner, on it's right side.

Climb the middle of the wall left of The Nest. Absolutely nails. Start at the thin crack and work your way upward using an undercut and sheer grit. Bring a brush to clean the upper sections.

The roofed corner. The crux is reaching the climb's namesake.

Partially tidal. The largest of the stacks, visible slightly to the left as you descent from the path between Prophet and Tapered Wall. Exciting climbing in a beautiful location.

The left hand corner facing the land. Climb up the face, over the bulge then finish up an obvious groove.

Begin right of Captain Birdseye, aiming initially for a small square ledge. Traverse right to a set of slightly angled cracks, then work up them to top out.

Begin at the right hand side of the slightly sloping shelf. Follow the corner to a ledge, then transfer to the face and finish directly.

Looking at Flying Buttress, use the same crack but follow the right hand side. Finish up the face as FB Left. No pro for the first three quarters of the route except very large cams in the crack. Easier to just solo it than try to place gear, although the right hand side wall's rock is crumbly

Past Flying Buttress to the right is a large clear groove. Climb it.

Around the East side of the The Stack lies a bulging prow. Climb up then left over the lip, finishing directly up the face. Bring a range of large cams for the upper section where frequent but shallow placements abound.

To the right of The Prow, between it and a recessed corner. Starts just to the left of the corner, and gradually trends to the left onto the protruding prow. From there finish directly. Tenuous top-out.

Climb the wall to the left of Back Passage, trending right underneath the ledge covered in grass (and occasionally seagulls) to an easy finish.

The recessed corner full of deep cracks. An easy climb for all the family, and doubles as a descent route from the top of The Stack.

To the right of Back Passage, using the often vegetated cracks. Easy finish.

Climb the curved groove to the right of Dirty Old Man, finishing over a bulge.

Start at the far right of the North facing wall. Once you get to about half height move over to the left and gain a ledge, then finish to the left over an exciting bulge.

Start right of Footloose, following a natural line to the right end of a ledge to finish up the corner.

Follows clean cracks up the left side edge of the West facing wall to a bulging finish.

To the right of Butcher's broom. Climb directly to the small flake, then make a long move before finishing right.

The obvious left crack, to the right of Shadow Flake.

The right hand crack of the two, occasionally reaching for the arete when the going gets sparse.

Clockwise around the block. High tide adds spice, and occasionally soggy ankles.

Non tidal - Left of Tapered Wall. The steep wall opposite the largest stack. Finishes at the opening to the tunnel.