Nodos en Phantom Spires

A hillside above highway 50 covered with tiny crags and boulders, and a few main towering spires of granite.

Amongst a barren rock field you will find many traditional routes, along with some more difficult sport and mixed routes in an excellent, yet unsheltered setting that's almost eerie at times. Watching other parties climb is easy, since there are absolutely no trees surrounding the spires.

You can climb here from late fall to early summer before it gets too hot, and even in the winter on heavy drought years.

The black and white granite of The Phantom Spires will remind you of Yosemite, but like most Tahoe granite, isn't as glasslike.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Place cam in horizontal after 3rd bolt.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

2-bolt anchor for first belay

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Between East Face Route and North Ridge. Belayer should wear helmet. Sling every piece and be careful! Everything is loose.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Sport route with knob tie-offs

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

A classic line up the "Upper Spire".

1. 5.7, 140ft. Climb through a scary series of hollow booming flakes to single solid flake about half way up, then up this until it ends with a small ledge at a horizontal break.

2. 5.6, 50ft. Step left from the belay to a wide crack. Climb mostly the face left of the crack and left edge of the crack, reaching right into the crack to place gear.

Climb takes large cams, generally 2-each BD Camalots #2, #3, and #4 (or equivalents) as well as a normal rack.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Ascend the sharp arête up the south side of Shark's Tooth to a 2-bolt top anchor.

Ascend 15ft of easy climbing to the only bolt and then up through the bolted anchor shared with 3-Bolt Arête.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Solo up the north face of Clam Rock to the bolted anchor.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

A pair of shortish south-facing spires beside each other.

On the left owl, a 4th class (easy 5th) scramble up the left allows for a top-rope on the 5.8 climbs. An easy (though preferably roped) traverse from the left anchor allows top-roping the climb up the other side of the left owl.

On the right owl, a 4th class (easy 5th) up from the right also allows setting of a top-rope.

The first few climbs are on the left owl -- the one split by a squeeze chimney up the center of it.

Climb through the thin start to knobs, then thin slab above. The detached block overhanging the left side of the face can be grabbed to ease through the initial crux.

A liine of 4 bolts to anchors. Avoid the large knobs to the left, but use the arete to the right.

Climb the squeeze chimney in the middle of the left owl.