Nodo |
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Black Velvet Canyon |
The Monument |
The Monument |
5.12+
★ Desert Crack
Steep fingers to tight hands. If you're here you're probably more interested in the roof. A black totem/0.2 BD is very helpful for the start. |
5.11d
★★★ Desert Reality
The classic roof pitch that is best climbed by aiding Desert Crack (the finger intro) if you aren't up for the full 5.13- rig, and ripping it on lead from where the roof begins. Don't lower off the top anchor! Backjump to clean. There are a few meandering approach trails, so go up the Black Velvet Canyon track until you're certain you can see it (on the right) and pick a trail that looks good. Stays in the shade from early afternoon - perfect for a hot day. |
5.13-
★★★ Desert Gold
Begin by climbing an approach pitch (5.9 PG13) on the left wall below the massive roof. This is actually quite enjoyable. Traverse right on a thin foot ledge towards loose blocks, or continue up a massive hollow flake and then move right. This leads to a bolted belay at a sloping stance. 35 meters. Clip a bolt off the belay with a long runner and step left around the arete into a junky corner. Up this a few moves and then back onto the arete. Stretch right to the crack, place pro, and commit to the short but surprisingly steep finger crack. There is basically one move of each size - tips through hands - on the way to the roof, so no matter your hand size, there's a crux for you! Under the roof, cop a pumpy rest and avoid clipping the lowering bolt; instead launch outwards. #2 Camalots quickly widen to #3 Camalots at the lip where a jug awaits for pulling over to the top. For many this "11d" section proves to be the crux. Backjump and lower from the bolt under the roof to clean. |
5.12- Violent Stems |
5.11- Clipper |
5.8 Scumby |
5.11 Seduction Line |
5.10 No Name |
5.11+ Chinese Handcuffs |
5.11 Lizard Locks |
5.10 All the Right Moves |
5.10 Cornucopia |
Burlap Buttress |
Burlap Buttress |
5.10 Children of the Sun |
? Unknown 1 |
5.11c Unknown 2 |
5.9
★★ Arrow Place
The first ascent party found a native American arrow head on a ledge, presumably shot at a bird and missed, then not retrievable. |
5.12 K-Day |
Whisky Peak |
Whisky Peak |
5.7
★★ Schaeffer's Delight
P1 has been re-bolted and good single pitch itself. Bring a few cams if just climbing P1, the final bolt leads to easy ground but still ~30 feet short of the anchor. Full rack required for P2 & P3. |
5.8 ★★ Flared crack right of Schaeffer's Delight |
5.8 Crown Royal |
5.10+ ★★ Rain Dance |
5.8 ★ Bourbon Street |
5.8 ★★★ Frogland |
5.7 Back to Basics |
5.6 First Grader |
5.10+ As the Toad Turns |
5.10- Romance Is a Heart Breakin' Affair |
5.10+ Kenny Laguna |
5.10+ Perplexity |
5.9 ★★ The Misunderstanding |
5.10 Miss Conception |
5.10+ Return to Forever |
5.10+ I ★ Mazatlan |
5.11c ★★ Ixtalan p1 |
5.11c IV ★★ Ixtalan |
5.12a ★ Matzoland |
5.10 Cabo San Looseness |
5.10
★★ Sand Felipe
A bolt ladder for some reason. But pretty good climbing. |
5.10 Sandblast |
5.10b III ★★★ Triassic Sands |
5.11 Cole Essence |
5.11 Archeoptryx |
5.10- ★★★ Wholesome Fullback |
5.11b ★★★ The Delicate Sound of Thunder |
5.10d
★★ Our Father
Climbs up the right side of the Wholesome Fullback pinnacle. |
5.11 Tales from the Gripped |
5.11 ★★★ Only the Good Die Young |
Black Velvet Wall |
Black Velvet Wall |
5.10 Spark Plug |
5.11 Cutting Edge |
5.10+ Smooth as Silk |
5.9 ★ Refried Brains |
5.12- American Ghostdance |
5.11 Sandstone Samuri |
5.10 II R ★★ Rock Warrior |
5.10c III ★★ The Prince of Darkness |
5.10a IV ★★★ Dream of Wild Turkeys |
5.10 Yellow Brick Road |
5.10- ★★ The Gobbler |
5.10+ PG13 ★★★ Fiddler on the Roof |
5.10- Early Times |
5.10+ Johny Come Lately |
5.10a
★★★ Sour Mash
Sour Mash is one of Red Rocks finest climbs. With varied climbing, tons of thin cracks, face climbing cruxs, and an intriguing traversing roof to crack. It features a mix of styles, between traditionally protected and well-bolted pitches. The bolted cruxs with the fifth pitch being the crux pitch. Small cams to #3 Camalot are good to have. The start is easily identified by a large and deep arch on the R side of Black Velvet Wall. The route follows discontinuous cracks through the R edge of the arch's roof and then angles slightly back L as it ascends the steep wall above.
Descend via rappelling off the middle of the giant roof. |
5.11+ My Little Pony |
5.10+ Velveeta |
5.10 Malicious Mischief |
5.10+ Chalk Is Cheap |
5.12d ★★★ Texas Tower Direct |
5.9
★★★ Epinephrine
This is it. THE classic red rocks route. And it's just as good as everyone says it is. Original route description said 18 pitches, but it can be done in as little as 11 with some boldish soloing in the upper segments.
|
5.11 Texas Hold'em |
5.10+ Lone Star |
5.11a Yellow rose of texas |
Western Spaces Wall |
Western Spaces Wall |
5.10+ ★ Stick for Toys |
5.10+ Tranquility Base |
5.10+ Desert Solitude |
5.11+ The Breathing Stone |
5.11- Western Spaces |
5.10 Black Sun |
5.10+ Mr. Natural of the Desert |
Main Boulders |
Main Boulders |
V5 Freedom Fighter |
V15
Squoze
Immediately to the left of Sleepwalker. |
V16
Sleepwalker
First attempted by Nalle Hukkataival. |
V17
Return of the Sleepwalker
Sit start to 'Sleepwalker'. |
V4 ★★★ The Little V4 |
V2 ★★★ Natasha's Highball |
V7 ★★ Red Dragon |
V4 ★★★ The Little Toe |
V5 The Podiatrist |
V7 The Podiatrist Sit |
Right Fork Boulders |
Right Fork Boulders |
V10 Gunga Galunga |
Wet Dream |
Wet Dream |
V12 Wet Dream |
V11
Wet Dream Right
Same start as Wet Dream but to the right. |