Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sáb 2.º Mar 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
20 Fácil | ★★ Klingons - con Gareth | 23m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Not led it for a while now.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Game Over - con Gareth | 23m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Now with more pull.
|
||||||
Vie 2.º Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 Duro | ★★ Great Scott - con Aidan Sarginson | 27m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
Warmup? Across to the Critters anchor for a 1.5 hour effort getting the big midway flake off that and raining big chunks down. Aidan got the draws off just before rain arrived.
|
||||||
Mié 3.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
20 | ★ Sunday School - con Gareth | 17m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
Straightforward enough once you burn it into non-volatile memory.
|
||||||
Mié 27.º Dic 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Sneakin' In The Backdoor - con Jonno Rau, Gareth | 15m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Dom 10.º Dic 2023 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★ Carpe Diem - con Jonno Rau | 30m, 12 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Lun 23.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
16 | ★ Alice In Wonderland - con Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Gear within half a metre of every bolt.
|
||||||
Dom 22.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★★ Road Tripping - con Gareth | 48m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Better than High Hopes. Could use a clean but not too bad, maybe 18 as is. Nice view of parties on cruxes of After The Sunset and The Odyssey.
|
||||||
Sáb 21.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - con Gareth | 15m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Made a hash of the pull onto the slab. Some kind of weird heel scum.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Ducky Fuzz - con Gareth | 15m | Medio | |||
Waiting for 2 parties in the queue ahead of us on Guardians. Tricky start.
|
||||||
Vie 20.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 Duro | ★★ Great Scott - con Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Side pull flake still present.
|
||||||
Vie 20.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
20 ~19 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - con Gareth | 20m, 5 | Medio | |||
I think it's 19.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Jug Addiction - con Gareth | 20m, 8 | Medio | |||
After a morning spent accessing and removing the loose block on Sex Panther.
|
||||||
Mar 19.º Sep 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
15 | ★ Oliver's Twist - con Rosie | 12m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Replaced pull cord for this and toprope-only route to left.
|
||||||
17 ~16 | ★ Green Spot - con Rosie | 16m, 5 | Ni te molestes | |||
Replaced pull cord for this and Facetious. Still don't like the big detached block.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Out With The Boys - con Rosie | 15m, 4 | Medio | |||
Replaced pull cord.
|
||||||
Sáb 9.º Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★ Powder Queen - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Crux bulge looks harder than it is.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Terror Incognito - con Jonno Rau | 25m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Sáb 2.º Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt - con Jonno Rau | 18m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
3 is enough, post cold, tweaked back. Pretty spoogy at top.
|
||||||
Sáb 19.º Ag 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Safe Playing - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
Warmed up just in time for rain.
|
||||||
Dom 30.º Jul 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
19 Fácil | ★★ Hare Rama - con Jonno Rau | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Off the dog list. Still nervy getting to first bolt. Bloody good.
|
||||||
15 | ★ Holy Braille - con Jonno Rau | 13m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Think it was this, tucked away behind a pine tree. Not bad.
|
||||||
Dom 30.º Jul 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 Fácil | ★★ Wild Country Express - con Jonno Rau | 16m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Body position dependent to make the holds work. Don't drift right.
|
||||||
Sáb 29.º Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
17 Duro | ★ Blazing Away - con Gerald | 12m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
RH start a bit nervy. Good heel hooks on both sides.
|
||||||
Dom 25.º Jun 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★ Serife - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
16 ~16 Duro | ★ Bonne Anne - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Dom 9.º Abr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
16 ~15 | Sweet 16s Not M16s - con Gareth | 20m, 9 | Ni te molestes | |||
Warmup. Meh.
|
||||||
Sáb 8.º Abr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Pinch and a Punch - con Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Overlooked by all the punters on the squeeze routes.
|
||||||
Vie 7.º Abr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - con Gareth | 15m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
Can't reach the finger lock at the crux directly from the stance, but a thumb press out left and right foot on the wee feature allows shoulder rotation to do the job.
|
||||||
Sáb 11.º Mar 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
17 Duro | ★★ WorkSafe - con Gareth | 20m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
Could probably call it 17. But it isn't harder than Bonne Anne ;-)
|
||||||
Sáb 4.º Mar 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
18 Duro | ★ Roadweary - con Gareth | 20m, 9 | ★ Buena | |||
Late start. Possibly poor choice of warmup.
|
||||||
Mié 4.º En 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
22 | ★★ Safety in Numbers | 30m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Consistent all the way. A lot of lichen makes it hard to spot the feet and at times you are on lichen slopers. High priority for a clean. Topped out through some dead bushy stuff I didn't remember being there, couldn't find the anchor, then discovered a tree had died and fallen right onto it. Considerable swearing while balanced on more lichen. Got anchored then spent a while wrenching the tree off and sent it down. Rap cleaned. This will be bloody great after a good brush.
|
||||||
Lun 2.º En 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 |
★★★ After the Sunset P1
1
18
30m
| 30m, 42 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Warmup. The first of the two good pitches for the route (P5 is the other). Bloody nice.
|
||||||
Dom 1.º En 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
16 | ★ Alice In Wonderland - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
New Year's Day and hardly anyone here? Unbelievable. A much more absorbing route on gear.
|
||||||
Dom 14.º Ag 2022 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ School Bus Route - con Gareth, Jonno Rau, Greg, Max | 35m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Off the dog list. Wanders either side of the bolts, just stay on and keep going.
|
||||||
Dom 14.º Ag 2022 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Flying Cow Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Pigs In Space - con Gareth, Jonno Rau, Greg, Max | 15m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
Alzheimers crux but hung on.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Pani Para Chha - con Gareth, Greg | 15m, 9 | ★ Buena | |||
Warmup in the sun.
|
||||||
Jue 11.º Ag 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | ||||||
18 | ★ Supertwitch - con Jonno Rau | 12m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Very spoogey slab bottom, climbed in from left. A bit plagued by sunstrike much of the way after that.
|
||||||
Jue 11.º Ag 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | ||||||
17 | ★★ Moon Base Alpha - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 6 | Medio | |||
In the sun, out of the chilly southeasterly. A nice afternoon out in the countryside.
|
||||||
Sáb 6.º Ag 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★ Bonne Anne | 20m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Nice warmup and the best 16 here.
|
||||||
Sáb 23.º Jul 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Climatic Extension - con Jonno Rau, Gareth | 25m, 11 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Off the unsent list. Rather good. Stayed mostly on or near left arete through middle, though somebody claimed the face is easier. Can't see it.
|
||||||
Mié 22.º Jun 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter | 25m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Between Josh's burns on something a lot harderer. Start always gives me the jitters but it's fine really. Heel hooks tame the top. Ribs saying stop now. Thanks to Mr Shanks for the shiny new rings.
|
||||||
Dom 17.º Abr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Great Scott - con Greg, Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Rock getting a bit warm, but probably the smoothest I've ever managed. The small crux sidepull flake is flexing, somebody will get a surprise soon.
|
||||||
Sáb 5.º Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
20 | ★★ Klingons - con Angela Hewlett, Colin | 23m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Got a bit too focused and didn't clip the lower of the 2 crux bolts. Oops too late. Then nearly repeated that with the final bolt.
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Klingons - con Angela Hewlett, Colin | 23m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Up to retrieve the anchor. Using all the bolts this time.
|
||||||
16 | ★★ Ride On Time - con Angela Hewlett, Colin | 14m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
Heel hooky goodness.
|
||||||
Dom 20.º Feb 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 | ★ Babs In Toyland - con Gareth | 14m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
Soft for 19.
|
||||||
Sáb 5.º Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
18 | ★ Respect My Authoritah - con Gareth | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Went easily now the gritty feet have cleaned up. Going right to the sloper-undercling thing is a bit harder, but still no more than 18 and not stiff.
|
||||||
Mar 1.º Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete - con Gareth | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
7.30pm and finally starting to cool off a bit. No warmup just punch it and milk the rests. Got a bit too focused and accidentally skipped the crux bolt. Bloody great, and off the unsent list.
|
||||||
Lun 31.º En 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Great Scott - con Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Benchmark 20, if it's harder than this it's 21...
|
||||||
Dom 16.º En 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
The Beer Garden | ||||||
18 | ★ Falling Debris - con Gareth | 15m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Off the dog list. Good route, the lichen isn't a problem apart from visually.
|
||||||
Sáb 15.º En 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
20 | ★★ Klingons - con Jonno | 23m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Last before lunch and loss of shade.
|
||||||
Lun 3.º En 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Secret Squirrel - con Gareth | 20m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Warmdown 2. Use the right arete at the low crux and it's on the soft side of 17.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Sugar Rush - con Gareth | 15m, 5 | Medio | |||
Warmdown 1. Would probably be a decent slab, but pretty dirty. Anyone want to scrub it properly?
|
||||||
Vie 31.º Dic 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 |
★★ Reggae Shark (Reggae Shark P1-3)
- con
Gareth, Grant Johnston, Chris
| 65m | ★ Buena | |||
First outdoor visit for Chris, so why not make it a multipitch? Did P1-2 on gear with one bolt at crux. Shoes still not as sensitive as I'd like for that. Loose rock at top of P2 is a bit worrying. Had thought we might be able to get across to top pitch of DHMK to finish, but that looked sketchy and hard. Hot hot hot, rapped off.
|
||||||
Jue 30.º Dic 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - con Gareth, Greg | 15m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
The low end of 19. Always a slight sense of disappointment when the monkey jugs disappear for the crux.
|
||||||
Jue 30.º Dic 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
18 | ★ Alcoholics Anonymous - con Gareth, Jonno, Greg, Claire | 18m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
I think I call 19 on this. Back on the new shoes. Hard start getting the first draw on if you are not tall, would be a bad fall onto the tree. Certainly woke me up.
|
||||||
Mié 29.º Dic 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
20 | ★★ El Tigre Chino - con Gareth | 20m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
A final quickie before it got too hot up top.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Alice In Wonderland - con Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Perfectly good gear close to every bolt. Took the left-hand crux (17).
|
||||||
17 | ★★ The Mad Hatter - con Gareth | 20m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
A bit tetchy in the new shoes, sensitivity not there yet. Felt 18 as a result.
|
||||||
Dom 19.º Dic 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★ Powder Queen - con Max, Jonno | 20m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
One off the dog list. Bridged far too wide up the leaning corner then cut loose at the jug but managed to paste myself back on. Absorbing top secton once you commit to the bulge. Well worth doing, less pumpy and more technical than Terror.
|
||||||
Sáb 11.º Dic 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
14 15 | ★ Al Fresco - con Emma, Gareth | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
18 | ★★★ Terror Incognito - con Gareth, Amy | 25m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Hot humid day. Pumpy warmup.
|
||||||
Dom 5.º Dic 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★ Serife - con Gareth, Anja | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Straight up crack/arete to start.
|
||||||
Sáb 4.º Dic 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier - con Gareth | 23m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Rock still mostly dry but belaying not, rain setting in. Time to leave.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Virgin On Easy - con Gareth | 23m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Nice. One slick foothold on top arete.
|
||||||
Sáb 20.º Nov 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ Game Over - con Gareth | 23m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
It's only pumpy if you face climb it and ignore the bridging opportunities. Last bit of shade, game over.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Reamed By Percentage - con Gareth | 24m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Climbed as per original description, left and bridging into the groove at grade 18. Direct as described here is more like 20 and beyond me today.
|
||||||
Vie 12.º Nov 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | ||||||
18 | ★ Supertwitch - con Greer, Jonno | 12m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Not 15 Greer. Spoogy at bottom, came in left, then many pockets a bit slimy. Quite good if it's ever dry.
|
||||||
Vie 12.º Nov 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Terror Incognito - con Greer, Jonno, Claire | 25m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Forgot a lot of beta through the middle, managed to clip from a tiny hold then found the jug. Got the top pretty right at least. Happy enough. Cleaned on abseil.
|
||||||
Sáb 18.º Sep 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Community service putting the pull cord back up
|
||||||
Dom 16.º Mayo 2021 - Pakeho | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
18 | ★★ Calcium Snow - con Angela Hewlett | 23m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Time to leave, still something left for the crux on this but no time to muck around, find the damn feet. Best 18 here.
|
||||||
Dom 16.º Mayo 2021 - Pakeho | ||||||
The Stone Steps | ||||||
16 | ★★ Tree Time - con Grant Johnston | 10m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Pretty physical for 16.
|
||||||
Dom 16.º Mayo 2021 - Pakeho | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
16 | ★ Piglet - con Grant Johnston | 21m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
Actually pretty fun. Just dry enough at bottom. Straight up the guts/crack through the low scoop makes that the crux.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Tiger by the Tail - con Grant Johnston | 11m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Draws on until going left before the crux. Feeling good so why not? Clipped the crux bolt from the crack sidepull under the roof before going for it, like a sane person this time.
|
||||||
Sáb 15.º Mayo 2021 - Pakeho | ||||||
The Stone Steps | ||||||
17 | ★★ Topless - con Grant Johnston | 16m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Clean.and dry. Somehow less good than it looks, maybe it's just me.
|
||||||
Sáb 15.º Mayo 2021 - Pakeho | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
16 | ★★ Heffalump Trap - con Grant Johnston | 18m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Hard start on wet mossy slime. Great fun above.
|
||||||
Sáb 24.º Abr 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 | ★ Built For Comfort - con Grant Johnston | 15m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
One off the dog list, climbing bang on the overhanging arete is the way to go. Clipped first 2 bolts of Haul Away, 2nd with long sling, but you'd be better to clip first bolt of Cannibal Groove.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier - con Grant Johnston | 23m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A favourite.
|
||||||
Vie 2.º Abr 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★★ High Hopes - con Colin, Paul Baron | 45m, 14 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Got out there early before the hordes arrive and start queueing. 5 years since I last led this and every move seemed new. One long pitch is the way to go, but if so your seconds need to be aware of the rope stretch at the low crux (which is not 16).
|
||||||
Dom 21.º Mar 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
20 | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Community service to put the pull cord back up. Felt like 20 today, too slow through crux, tore my finger up a little.
|
||||||
16 | ★★ Ride On Time - con Greer | 14m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
A nicer arete at the grade.
|
||||||
13 | ★ Gary's Arete - con Greer | 14m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
A nice arete at the grade.
|
||||||
Dom 14.º Mar 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
20 | ★★ Klingons - con Wade | 23m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Directly up beside the arete through the crux, bridging and heel hooks. I call 19. Fat old chain at top is a bugger to clip anything through.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls - con Gareth, Wade | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Back on pocket bingo, a bit strange and sharpish after the south island.
|
||||||
Jue 4.º Feb 2021 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
The Main Cliff | ||||||
17 | ★★ Headbangers Arete - con Grant Johnston | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Much better. Managed to bang my head too. Thank you helmet.
|
||||||
Mar 2.º Feb 2021 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Kai Whaka Pai | ||||||
16 | ★ Unknown - con Grant Johnston | 16m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
There's perfectly decent gear all the way with a miniscule runout to the anchor. Crux getting out of the crack and over the lip. Solid 16 or soft 17?
|
||||||
Dom 31.º En 2021 - Kingston | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
19 |
★★ The Spell of the Barking Spider (The Spell of the Barking Spider P1)
- con
Grant Johnston
| 28m, 20 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
P1 only. Crux gave no trouble this time, just a bit crimpy. Grant didn't want to go through the roof so we didn't do P2.
|
||||||
Dom 24.º En 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
23 | ★★ Rise Of The Sloths | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Gotcha! Just a bit different after ManBearPig. Avoided drifting right to the tempting thin horizontal crack at the start, that just sets you up for a really tenuous wide move left. Stayed just a whisker left of the bolts the whole way from the start, on smaller holds, but smaller moves are required. Linked into P2, got all crossed up and made that harder than necessary. A happy ending to a good trip in excellent company.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Samurai Pizza Cats - con Angela Hewlett | 15m, 9 | ★ Buena | |||
Much easier than it looks from the ground.
|
||||||
Vie 22.º En 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Mad Hatter - con Angela Hewlett, Colin | 20m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
Engaging, stay a whisker left/below the bolts at the start traverse to avoid a nervy step across.
|
||||||
Sáb 19.º Dic 2020 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ Horus - con Jonno | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
A little dirty but great exposure for the grade. The top holds are a bit more weathered now but the sequence is there if you explore left and don't get intimidated. Took a bail biner off 2nd to last bolt.
|
||||||
Sáb 28.º Nov 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
16 | ★ Alice In Wonderland - con Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
And as promised, it goes on gear. Decent pro for the boulder crux, a bit trickier low down.
|
||||||
Dom 22.º Nov 2020 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | ||||||
18 | ★ Star Gazer - con Amy, Jonno, Greer | 18m, 5 | Medio | |||
Finally off my dog list. A desperate moment with wrist lockup and rope behind leg before bolt 3. Took the separate finish at top. I never need to climb this again.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - con Amy, Jonno, Greer | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
A thinking 16, really enjoyable. Still tired.
|
||||||
Sáb 21.º Nov 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier - con Jonno | 23m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Warmup? No bridging thru middle.
|
||||||
Lun 26.º Oct 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
16 | Marshmellow - con Gareth | 20m, 6 | Medio | |||
Couldn't find my rock shoes, climbed in chunky approach shoes, certainly upped the pucker factor on the moss. Gear a bit sparse at top. I never need to do this again.
|
||||||
Sáb 17.º Oct 2020 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Flying Cow Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Pani Para Chha - con Jonno, Wade, Alex | 15m, 9 | ★ Buena | |||
Direct at bottom crux a smidge harder now two bits have broken off. Still 17.
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Pigs In Space - con Wade, Jonno | 15m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
Clipped from the sharp hold above the bolt. Works well setting up for the next bit.
|
||||||
Sáb 17.º Oct 2020 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★ Carpe Diem - con Jonno, Greer | 30m, 12 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Pocket bingo face climbing, not my favourite style. Fun route finding at the top though.
|