Vías en World para grado seleccionado

'L'Homme Obu' standing start from the big break on If The Shoe Fits. Power out to the LH pocket and finish up Rocket Pants.

Oliver Chen

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

Far right cave problem. Can be done in a number of different ways including a crazy dyno that could potentially send you rolling down to a rocky but somewhat refreshing swim in the ocean.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Oliver Chen

Sit start in the back of the cave on jugs. Climb line of pockets, underclings and flakes out of the roof finishing up the bulbous crack.

Start as for Microwave, head steadily left across Point Break and Tugboat and finish as for Tsunami (not Tugboat). Monique

Sit start/crouched on slopey edges and up pinching up the arete.

The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wyithe) repeated it!

Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber.

Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32.

Start as for Punks in the Gunks. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to chains at the top.

Mayan

Good start hold, up to thin crimps, ooze up to arete and then top.

http://vimeo.com/19953904

Start on obvious jugs in the small cave, huge move to slot and up.

mattias braach-maksvytis Chris Beers

Start on the big break then LH cross-over to pocket and bust RH to break. Match and then long move with RH to gaston the slot, LH up to the 3 finger pocket and jump around the bulge, control the swing and finish matched on the jug just up and right. Australia's first V10 and still the benchmark.

Start of the underclings and make some bizarre contortions (including doing a full 180 degree spin) through the roof. Probably one of the coolest and most unique problems in Sydney.

Travis B

Rob

Stand start matched on low rail then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

extension to Dragonfly. finishes on Fat Monkey

Start with the boulder problem of Evil. After the hard clip go left across a series of bulges. After some intricate betas and a few kneebars, you link into Esoteric Agenda under the top crux. Finish as per EA.

Epic power endurance test piece. One of the purest pieces of climbing in QLD for chur.

Same start as Tyler Durden then head left and up via slot and break to finish up on sloper break.

Travis B. Ian Millar

Popular. Sit start on good flakes at the lowest part of the roof and climb the line of flakes, pinches and edges all the way out to cruxy moves at the lip. Finish at the big jug on the face or top out.

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

Has a very sordid history, as holds and grades have come and gone. Start under the obvious blank arete, just right of 'Junket Pumper'.

Jack_Masel | Jake Bresenhan

Start on the big hold. Often wet.

Dylan Soin

Straight up the front side of the boulder just before the end of Phone Sex. Sit start to big jug, heal hook and big chuck to crimp out left. pull hard to the high gaston and up.

Rad sit-start on block under roof to small undercling, then punch to cool looking flake. Sooo bloody awesome and burly. Make sure you have a fair few pads.

Used to be the Jango fett project, but our authenticity checks clarified that Jango was never actually on tatooine we think. Unless he went there on a holiday at some point, but seriously who would go to mos eisley for a holiday, so it's kind of unlikely.

Sit start the steep crack. A test piece for well 'ard crack climbers. You can try and layback/undercling this, but if you aren't Arnie or can't jam you're likely to fail. Eat your wheaties.

King line of Cohiba. Follow the crack through the roof and up the slab to finish. Hopefully you have the perfect hand size.

Dane Evans | David Cook

The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian.

Daniel Fisher

Rose Weller

Sit start on slopey crimp. Move straight up via sharp LH crimp to top on slopers.

Oliver Chen Tyrone Clements

From good double underclings punch up to the sloper rail and finish as for Anger Management.

Start as for 'Apfenschaukel', but head right through a big gaston move. 2nd ascent was quickly made by Toni Lamprecht in about 5 minutes!

Very short power route mainly on underclings ending at the padlocked chain. Given 30 by Matt it was downgraded by Stuart Williams on the 2nd ascent to 29. Now a V10 boulder problem.

Sit start to Travis starting from a matched crimpy undercling under the roof (same as for 'Re-Detonated').

Travis B.

This climb has a confusing history which had an original description of '??' . General consensus is to start at "Bulge" and traverse left with hands going up over the lip at "The Rick White Problem", then back down at "The Plum". Ends with mantling and topping out as per "Gaston". A power-endurance test-piece

Stand Start. Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2 metres from the very back. Use Gaston like sloper and right hand pinch with feet in roof. Climb out into Fire in the Hole and top out the same. Originally V10 turned V8 and back up to around V9 after two holds broke.

Sit start and up very thin crimps on near vertical wall

Regrade proj due to holds exploding.

Supposed to be the easier variant to Mr Tickle, some people lacking adequate forearm fitness actually find it to be harder. Start as for Mr Tickle but traverse left and finish up Hairline.

Tough move up to sidepull, then to mono and "better" holds, then up slab.

Sam Healy

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start with the rail and climb up right (without left arete) through the bulging face.

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Whilst made to look easy by some, this climb can be bicep destroying. Bring out your big guns.

Sit start under roof, progressing directly up through pockety edges and using the undercling with your left hand to do a powerful move directly up to rail.

Any other sequence not involving left hand on the undercling is one of the Steve Austin Variants.

A real hidden classic.

Sit start under the steep wall on the right side, at the big undercling.

Head up following some slopey ledges, then swing across to left side of bloc, tricky tension moves guard the finish up then onto the arete. Highly recommended to scrub the top, as this bloc doesn’t get much sun.

Start on the chalked up jugs, traverse left to pockets out and through the middle of roof to finish above the start.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis Aurel Gelot

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Jump out around the bulge and climb up left. mORPHO "Bring your game for this test of co-ordination"

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Mega. Stand start in the pit down right as for Day of the Ape. Up left as for DOTA to gaston on HD. Epic shoulder press down into start of straining rail finishing via whichever of its variants pick your fancy. Quite a few tough moves in a row. Worth extending left for the full experience.

Same as Penis Cling, but starting with right hand on the undercling to the right of the left undercling.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Peter

Low start in cave. Big moves lead to finish jug above boulder. The extension is V7 on its own.

As for Rocket Man but right hand big move and top out left.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start below the twin crack system and climb straight up. "Named after Caro who found the line"

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L0, R3, L4, R5, M5

Hard press move made slightly easier by starting using small foothold high and left the start hold. Just keep reaching. Looks unfeasible but works.

Probably the best route of its grade in Sydney! Start right of Stringybark on little shelf left of the corner. crux at start using a undercling then climb through a variety of holds to a hard drive-by moving rightwards and then up into the back-breaking press into the roof and a quick campus through to top-out glory.

Start as for 'Collision Course' but after you gain the large rail continue right across some slopers to finish up 'Not Drowning, Waving'.

Absolute cracker of a one move wonder. Start on incut edge in middle of wall. Do a big move to good edge, match, then finish up an easy mantle (as for 'Kiss the Witness'). Definitely harder for those challenged in the ways of the span.

Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site.

Sit start left of the arete on a sloping break. Hard moves leading left before moving up to a high and commiting finish.

#sd

Beware the monster. When you find it you’ll know. All time, hard and a bit terrifying. Roof to hard moves to gain the flake and amazing arete. Be careful up high.

Adds a low start to "All the tables are reversed in my private universe". Start at the very back of the cave and make a big move to the start jug of "tables" and finish as per the v10.

Chris Beers

Roman Rosen

Start from the crimpy underclings (as for 'Spooged') and link into 'Hands Off My Detonator'

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Previously a long-standing open project prior to Klem's arrival. Originally graded 11, with some people thinking it's still not far off that.

First pitch 8a+. Mariona

The left arete of the cave, start low with right hand on undercling sloper and left hand on the broken hold. Left hand starting hold broke sometime in 2016. Still sits at V10. Follow the hanging arete and finish on the flat jug. A hard topout may be possible.

Sit start on the good edge. Head up and left via edges, pockets and a hard throw to a sloper. Top out left. (Originally graded V11, but the FA missed some beta).

Travis B. (FA)

Emmanuel Madayag

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Start low in the hole on two crimps and head rightwards on relatively easy ground to a powerful finale on small crimps to the lip.

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project'. Start up Thriller boulder, but instead of cutting left into Evil at the ledge, head right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

Batman start.

Start: Route 60m to the left of 'Dr Foopsickle'.

Sit-start on barely there holds, moving left into mono's and finish on jug below ferns.

Start sitting, then move up the crack before moving right on some small edges to get to the lip. Be careful mantling out.

Life Changes but starting as for Sushi Train. LC originally started as for Abacus.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Start with slot and climb through the roof to jug rail then continue out right finishing at the end of rail or topping out for the full value (Nalle Hukkataival 2015).

Video Video

Start as for Mr Knox. Follow the obvious line of good holds out of the cave and head right via big moves to the arete. Continue up the right-hand arete to top out.

The direct version of 'Zac's Arete' heading up some minging crimps and poor feet out to the arete.

#sd

A great present from the Toni and Klem road trip of '99. Very committing, desperate and good. Pad out the landing well as falling from the top out would be very ugly.

Start matched on the low hueco jug. Climb the steep orange/grey prow using the arete or directly up orange cove. Top out on jugs and slab.

Sit start as for Power Up, then make hard moves right into to the start holds of Muy Forte and finish up that climb.

CMCC

Same as for Crooks and Castles, except starting from the lowest under cling possible.

Right sloper, left friction, then dyno? to massive jug

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Start with the rock, move to rail and climb out on the intimidating seam.

Sit-start with right hand on small scallopy undercling (SGF low start hold) and an edgy pinch with the other. Punch up with your left to a hold on the lip then as per SGF from the undercling and then to the top. A very hard one mover. Crouch start goes about V5/6 and is worthy of your time.

A.K.A. Lover's Tiff Direct. Go straight out the roof from the start jug and link into the end of Lover's Tiff. Morpho as anything. Edit: New beta seems to make this V10ish.

Mattias Braach Maksvytis

Start left hand in corner and right on a sloper. Climb the arete to the slope at the top of it. Traverse right utilising edges, slopes and a big undercling, to a ramp. Mantle to some good holds near the break.

Damien Alexander

Tyrone Clements

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Start as Dirty Lies but climb diagonally right through the roof. "The tendering process for the management of Kliphuis Campground inspired this name"