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Ordenado por: Edición en bloque (máx. 100)

Mostrando 1 - 100 de más de 10,000 vías.

Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Popularidad
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
16 Fracas

Start at crack line 2 metres left of Ckinell, up crack, gradually veering left into second crack, then through large guano filled pocket and jug hall through the easier section of roof above pocket. Easy climbing to top or head right to rap anchors.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Freya Hik, Dic 2017

Clásica 28m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
16 Rubbery Under Arms

Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.

FA: Michael Creek, 1986

Clásica 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Cerrado Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
16 Pot Boiler

Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.

FA: Bruce Sutherland & Keith Lockwood, 1984

Clásica 12m
16 R Marmot's Mall

The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.

Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

FA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst & Kevin Sheehy, 1966

Clásica 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Cerrado Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder
V0 V0 problem on left

Sit start

Búlder 2m
V0 V0 Juggy Arete
Búlder 4m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble
16 Yakshini

The line just L of the arete.

Start on the black back wall of The 'Thimble' which faces 'Comic Strip Wall', 1m L of the arete.

FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd, Kasia Kazimierczak & Martin Lama, 1992

Clásica 11m
16 Nothing Too Serious

Short corner then R and up.

Start 1m R of 'The Last In Line'.

FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992

Clásica 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
16 Crucifixion

Grunt your way up the offwidth crack on the wall around left from 'The Rack'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell & Bruce Osborne, 1966

Clásica 12m
16 Castration

LH crack in narrow buttress, then R to a pair of thin cracks.

Start beneath the roadside-face of the buttress.

FA: Paul Gillis & John Bowen, 1970

Clásica 15m
16 The Martyr

The bottomless corner.

Start 2m R of 'I've Got A Big Honker'.

FA: Julie Tulloch & Bill Andrews, 1975

Clásica 11m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin
16 tool bender

first accent

Búlder 6m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks
16 Cling On

Start 3 metres right High School Antics on left side of chimney. Stay on left side of chimney avoiding the temptation to bridge at any stage. Climb up to horizontal crack and into corner. Up to overhang and obvious thread through. Blast through juggy overhang and spare a size 3 cam for pocket in upper head wall.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, 1 Dic 2016

Clásica 15m
16 High School Antics

Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam.

Start: Start 1m R of GM.

FA: M Abbott & Newt Singh-Dodd, 1989

Clásica 14m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
16 Evelyn's New Clothes

The thin corner.

Start: Start just R of arete.

FA: Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1982

Clásica 12m
16 Compost Corner

Up then step L and follow the continuation.

Start: Start 2m R of SL.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Evelyn Lees, 1982

Clásica 50m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
16 Scylla Alt Finish

A little extension to Scylla. Up Scylla until the difficulties ease, then step left to follow the flakes (instead of finishing up Charybdis). More sustained than the original finish.

Clásica
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Upper SkyDiver
16 Trapped Like a Rat In a Corner

An obvious, the word is used loosely, corner.

FA: Bert Levy & Steve Holloway, 1998

Clásica
16 Ratatouille

The same party wrote up another climb here : Rat 9m 16 Climb the bulge 4 metres left of the corner, up the wall, and finish up the right-facing black corner. Sounds like it might be the same as 'Ratatouille'.

FA: Bert Levy & Steve Holloway, 1998

Clásica
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
16 Golden Delicious

Start right of Boo. Up wall to jugs. Continue up until wall blanks out, then take line of holds right across orange face to the arete. Up and right to Mesa chains.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & Geoff Little, 19 Mar 2015

Clásica 25m
16 Shades Of Grey

Takes nice grey wall left of Boo. Chimney and bridge until jugs appear on the right (north) wall. Swing onto these, and direct up wall above.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Geoff Little & Norm Booth, 19 Mar 2015

Clásica 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus
16 Bat Out Of Hell

A variant finish to 'Hell For Leather' which is more sustained and improves the original.

Start: Start as for Hell for Leather.

FA: Loughran + ? & late 80s.

FA: Kieran, 2000

Clásica 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area
16 Hermione

Sounds like its worth a star so we'll whack one on.

Start: Start as for C.

  1. 25m (16) As for CB until below the overhang. Now pull through the overhang at the deep crack just R of the arete. Belay at ledge just above.

  2. 15m (16) Up the L edge of the buttress, with better moves and rock than on CB.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1998

Clásica 40m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area
16 Men in Tights

Start as per Agamemnon, finish last 5m up Electra pinnacle staying on the Northern chimney face. Small pro. Descent off the back or Rap down Agamemnon bolts as Electra chain is an awkward downclimb.

FA: unknown

Clásica 45m, 2
16 Running From the Martian

The crack R of a bush.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Necrophiliac'.

FA: S. Madoc & Sam Blainey, 1990

Clásica 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks
16 Small Victories

The flakes.

Start: Start directly opposite CRaCM.

FA: Nick Neagle, Tim Day & Craig Roberts, 1992

Clásica 9m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
16 Stentor 3rd Pitch

Start on top of the Piccolo pipe and climb the middle of the wall on the D Major pipe. The start is a little bold but the rest of the route protects well. Finish at rap bolts.

Clásica 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Major Pipe
16 Decibel

A few good moves up the front of the 'D Major' buttress.

Start: Start at the lowest point of the 'D Major' Buttress.

  1. 30m (16) Up easily till face steepens, up face to crack in buttress.

  2. 20m (16) Start up chimney just left of 'D Major' then step left above roof to front of juggy buttress.

FA: Chris Baxter & Rod Young, 1976

Clásica 50m, 2
16 Libretto

Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section.

Start: Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of 'D Major'.

  1. 25m (14) Sustained climbing up the thin cracks to the big cave.

  2. 25m (16) Move towards the front of the buttress and climb a short, difficult corner. Continue easily.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger., 1968

Clásica 50m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe
16 Woodwind

The central line up the 'Conifer Crack' buttress is unfortunately not very sustained. Also it has a habit of dealing out broken ankles to leaders falling at the end of the crux.

Start: Just right of 'Conifer Crack'.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Neil Barr., 1982

Clásica 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall
16 Led Zeppelin

Essentially a nice variant finish to Sonatine, sharing that climb's crux. 35m abseil descent.

  1. Start as for Yossarian or Sonatine or other approach to the first belay of Sonatine at the huge block.

  2. 25m 16 Step off the block into a shallow orange groove (as for Sonatine, crux, RPs essential). Move into the righthand groove and follow it direct. (Sonatine is the corner on the left).

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 23 Sep 2017

Clásica 45m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder
V0 Ear of the Bunny
Búlder 3m
V0 Face and scoop
Búlder 3m
V0 Crack
Búlder 3m
16 Bunny Blowjob

Over the nose

Clásica 3m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left What You Like
16 Free Falling

Climb is on the east face, facing the Pines. Starts easily to shallow cave at 6m. Leaving the cave, the gear is rather thin and at the grade.

FA: Lachlan Brown & Pete Holmes, 6 Mar 2012

Clásica 9m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
16 The Day Bryn's Dad Got Scared

Start below tooth-flake 3m right of Mark You've Changed.

Up right side of flake.

FA: Smith, Pritchard & Hoskins, 1995

Clásica 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall
16 Brick Dust

Pale waterstreak into thrutch crack.

Start on blocky ledge halfway up the left side of Brick Wall - i.e. off the top of the pinnacle just ledt of Squeakeasy.

FA: Chris Baxter & Peter Watling (aided on peg - Baxter freed it later), 1974

Clásica 22m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
16 Jed's Climb

Start as for Sue's Climb, take the flake into Pedro for a metre, then head L on the next steep blocky flake. Up wall and through bulge to join Pedro's finish. All reasonably well protected except the initial R leaning flake - take small wires.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Jed, 2013

Clásica 30m
16 Horrible Realities

Surprisingly not as good as the original. Start as for BP and go L 1m as for that route then straight up to join the finish of Jason.

FA: Unknown

Clásica 30m
16 Jason

Regularly recommended to those who can't jam. Start 3m right of Pedro. Layback and jam the water-washed corner, with technical moves L around the roof.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger & Peter Jackson, 1966

Clásica 30m
16 Dylan

There are 3 short chimneys at the righthand end of the wall. This is the left one and is surprisingly awkward.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Bryan Oates, 1966

Clásica 15m
16 Golden Nothing

Stronlgy suspect that this is a repeat of Gobsmacking Dick which was written up in the Operation Leo Area and described as in a hanging gully above Jason. Despite the inaccuracy, I think they're the same. This climb is up behind 'Golden Fleece Wall', starting up a gully of sorts directly behind the top of 'Dylan'.

Chimney until the slab on the left wall is too far away then pull onto the right wall. Hand-crack to start, bulg, finger-crack and on to top.

FA: Hugh Sutton & Jonatha Hajos, 2008

Clásica 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall
16 Where Weasels Dare

Originally described as SSO RHV.

Start as for The Stoat Steps Out.

Up 3m traverse R, crossing Bunyip, for 5m and then up.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Clásica 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dino Pillar
16 The Height Below

The crack then the arete.

Start: Start 2m L of D.

FA: Keith Egerton & Russell Crow, 1983

Clásica 13m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall
16 Rambo Survival Route

Rambo would've climbed 32 if he'd had HB's mo.

Start 2m L GC.

Crack, seam, ramp, wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Bert Levy, 1981

Clásica 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
16 Great Lengths

The short flake with a bouldery start.

Start: Start on a small orange buttress L of TPtG.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Roger Greatrick, 1984

Clásica 15m
16 The Crying Game

A pumpier partner to Sob Story and Tear Jerker.

Start as for SS and TJ.

From ledge where SS steepens (and TJ heads out R), fun and well protected climbing heads up diagonally L to crack on L wall.

FA: Andy Reynolds, Chris Abernathy, Ben Clayton & Lauren Connell, 1997

Clásica 18m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
16 Watch Dog

The corner then L around the roof.

Start: Start in the alcove R of K.

FA: Dave Gairns, Gordon Talbett & Mike Stone, 1978

Clásica 10m
16 Click my Lit

Cooner Spunnilingus?

Start: In the back of the gully is a crack on the right wall, up higher.

Up this, avoiding temptation to bridge back.

FA: Richard Smith & solo, 1999

Clásica 10m
16 Felicity's Tongue

Wedged in the middle of Jeff's Buttocks. The easy looking right-hand crack.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Clásica 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress
16 Dead End

The line up the L side of the buttress.

Start: Start in the gully on the LH side of the buttress.

FA: Rod Young & Matt Taylor, 1976

Clásica 12m
16 http://www.climb.webprovider.com/

The first route in the world to have its own web-site!

Start: In the hanging gully at the back of the All 'Alone in the Dead Zone' (Shattered) buttress is an obvious corner. This might be the same gully as 'Dead End', but then again maybe it's not.

Up the corner, finishing slightly left

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Clásica 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
16 Lets Do Lunch

See arapiles.net for a photo.

Start: Start at the front R arete of the block, R of DDT.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, Nikki Sutherland & Jon Basindale, 1999

Clásica 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
16 Flying Foxes

Diagonal seam that doesn't quite reach the ground left of FOTR. Bouldery start, diagonal then wall right of the corner of Pure and Simple.

FA: Keith Lockwood et al.

Clásica 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
16 Boot Off

After the bouldery start of Bootleg, continue up wall right of that route. Some poor rock and gear.

Clásica 20m
16 Cream Puff

Grotty corner.

Start: Start 2m R of NH.

FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd & Kazimierczak, 1990

Clásica 8m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
16 John Thomas

Bouldery start with not much gear then wall to break. Step R then up grey wall to finish up 'Babylon'.

Start: Start 1.5m R of WMT.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Bill Andrews, 1982

Clásica 30m
16 Babylon

30m (16) Start 3m L of a gumtree at R end of the wall. Up the intermittent L line of the faint twin lines then featured slab to anchor. Hard and tricky to protect start. 30m abseil.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1982

Clásica 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Everyfin, Everyfin, Like That & Everyfin
V0 Our Doreen
Búlder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
16 Mug's Game

Short thin seam and up to ledge.

Start: Start 3m R of the big block.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Eddy Ozols, 1979

Clásica 27m
16 Helictite

The overhang above the cave.

Start: Start at the Pillars (i.e. at the top of the previous routes).

FA: Derek Lord, Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1968

Clásica 8m
16 Frankenstein

Start on the featured arête just right of the overgrown corner crack down and right of the gully, opposite the broken east edge of Minstrel Pinnacle. Easy climbing leads to a distinct crux off a ledge. More easy climbing follows. Rap rings situated on the far L side of the ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Garry Sudholtz, 1968

Clásica 38m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
16 The Catacombs

A shady outing for a hot day, starting in 'Dreadnought Gully' then taking the rock between the Dreadnought and Starless Buttresses. Nod and Norm did it years ago but detoured around some challenges on the second pitch. Nod and Kieran have now straightened it out with the addition of a comforting bolt.

  1. 25m (14) Up grey rib directly opposite Dreadnought, finishing up the roof crack left of the chains. Belay, then walk up the gully 20m to where the Dreadnought Buttress abuts the main cliffline at a corner.

  2. 40m (16) Climb the water-polished line 3m left of the corner, trending right after about 10m. Continue trending up the grey wall right of some yellow patches of rock, then straight up centrally via a distinctive line of white spots (no, it’s not chalk) followed by a bulge, where a BR shows the way.

  3. 40m The gothic headwall above features an obvious black water streak. Traverse right from the gulch and follow black streak to the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 12 En 2015

Clásica mixta 110m, 3, 1
16 Stranger Things

Fun climbing. Good for a hot day as its mainly in the shade.

  1. 25m (14) Up first pitch of The Catacombs. Belay then walk up 20 meters, under the giant chockstone until you can see a big corner crack.

  2. 13m (15) Climb corner crack and belay at top. Watch out for loose block at the top.

  3. 30m (16) Climb directly up face for around 5 meters with no holds into crack. Climb crack and traverse right onto slab. Slab starts on a corner ledge and goes up for around 20 meters past bolt. Belay from top of giant round boulder roughly 8 meters above bolt. In the first section it's a bit run out if you're into that sort of thing.

I will go back next trip and install some anchors so lowering off is an option instead of having to climb the headwall (super easy).

FFA: Chris Ferre & Philippa Briglia, 5 En 2017

FA: Chris Ferre & Philippa Briglia, 5 En 2017

Clásica mixta 68m, 3, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress Western Desert
16 Yatungka

The next three routes start in the gully behind Starless Buttress, left and slightly lower than the huge chockstone. The starts are hidden by the top of Starless Buttress in the topo.

Start as for 'The Empty Quarter'.

  1. 15m (15) Up to thin crack and up past bolt. Easier face left of bushy groove to big ledge.

  2. 35m (16) Pull onto buttress just right of Ngarrinarri and up and right at bolt. Up a few moves just right of centre then step back left and steeply up the centre of the buttress. Easy slabby country leads to the top, taking the last little step to the left or right.

FA: Kieran Loughran, maureen little & sean Smallacombe, 17 En 2016

Clásica mixta 50m, 2, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
16 Saracen
1 16 35m
2 12m
3 16 33m
4 34m

The first and third pitches are good. It's best to run pitches 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 together, then you get two good, long pitches followed by an easy pitch off.

Start: Start below and L of the big overhangs, on the lower section of 'Dunes Buttress', at a layback crack.

  1. 35m (16) Up the corner for 6m, then swing up L past overhang onto slab. Trend L into bushy territory, then R into dirty groove to Arab's 3rd belay.

  2. 12m (-) Step L and up to small stance. Best to keep going up the next pitch rather than belay here.

  3. 33m (16) Go 2m R then up excellent grey crack. (A grade 8 variant established by the three Gledhills on 14/1/68 goes straight up the deep crack into the chimney on pitch 4).

  4. 34m (-) Ramble onwards.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967

Clásica 110m, 4
16 Arab
1 16 25m
2 10m
3 3 15m
4 25m
5 32m

Start: 2m L of 'Dunes' is a R facing corner. Start by scrambling (or roping) up this to the top of the huge flake.

  1. 25m (16) Grey slab to strenuous chalked wall, then head L up stepped ramp to a belay ledge on the arete. (The original avoided the overlap by going way off R - this better direct way was done by Keith Lockwood and Geoff Schirmer 4/2/78).

  2. 10m (-) Step L then up over worrisome blocks and belay under orange corner. 2b: Variant 15m Straight up arete with reasonable pro and rock.

  3. 15m (16) Up orange corner then R under arching roof to arete.

  4. 25m (-) Up the line then L onto wall and belay under steep little crack (which is pitch 5 of Dunes).

  5. 32m (-) Traverse L, ignore scrubby crack, and take the balancy grey slab then join the final corner of 'Dunes'.

FA: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1965

Clásica 110m, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
16 Foxes in Boxes

good climbing some dodgy gear

Clásica 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
16 Kamikaze

Worth doing? Yes. Worth a star? hmm...

Start: Start in the middle of the slim S face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor, 1968

Clásica 20m
16 Mantis Variant Finish

As for 'Mantis' to the recess under the roof, now take the left end of the overhang and up the corner above, rejoining 'Mantis' near the top. There is a piton somewhere on this.

Start: Start as for 'Mantis'.

FA: Phillip McMillan & Rod Young, 1979

Clásica 33m
16 R The Wizard

Layback a pin-scarred flake with poor pro, then directly up wall above.

Start: Start 5m R of PK.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965

Clásica 20m
16 I'd give Both My Ankles to do a route this close to camp

The full description provided is "Right of Mantle". Hmmm. Maybe a repeat of Downward Bound? Maybe somewhere else entirely? Who knows.

FA: Richard Smith, 2006

Clásica 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque
16 Lobboff

Up then traverse L across lip.

Start: Start 4m R of ALM.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Nic Taylor, 1975

Clásica 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder
V0 Classic high arete
Búlder 7m
V0 L-slanting ramp with hard start
Búlder 4m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Big Pointy Boulder
V0 V0 Face
Búlder 5m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Animal Acts
V0 No Hands Traverse
Búlder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder
V0 V0

The chimney

Búlder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder
V0 7.

L leaning line of jugs to topout.

Búlder 4m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
16 Matthew The Musical

This route was originally done in one pitch but can be done in two after crossing the Keyhole.

Start just right of 'Required'. Follow the obvious break/crack right for several metres and then up to top of a large triangular flake (shrouded in green lichen) where you will meet the first indecision of go high/go low. The top of this ramping flake sets the general level of the traverse which continues right through a large square tan colour patch under a bulging roof before crossing the 'Keyhole' gap.

At this point decide if you can handle the rope drag or want to bring the second.

The route then goes up through two sections of roof both fun but the first is much more consequential if you are not able to find some protection and fall.

From the ledge take the first slight crack line up through the roof. It begins on jugs and then the test piece is to make it through to the next set of jugs ... this is the crux and will decide the fate of many to come and if they decide to bail on the easier route off to the right. The crux will feel a It desperate as you move between jiffy sections but it goes ... for the bold.

After the crux continue up easy climbing to next ledge and walk diagonally to next roof to finish on a high through pushy positive jugs. Easy belay with blocks at very top of Bluff Minor. Holds my feel unused but it hasn't had the traffic yet so adds to the experience.

It's a super adventure and will feel very exposed for people climbing at the grade and an interesting experience of traversing. Slings are handy and a keen eye for trad placements to keep it as safe as possible for your second.

FA: Matthew Rothwell, 2nd: Ian Grabowski

19 Oct 2018

FFA: El Matt a Door & Ian.Grabowski, 19 Oct 2018

FA: El Matt a Door & Ian.Grabowski, 19 Oct 2018

Clásica 55m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
16 Resignation Left Hand Start

Up the shallow L facing corner for 10m and rejoin the original. Slightly fiddly gear.

Start: Start just L of R.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1977

Clásica 35m
16 Resignation Direct

The direct line up P2 of Resignation and into the bulge of P3.

P1: As for Resignation.

P2: Instead of heading left to the weakness, continue straight up on orange rock to reach the bottom of the bulge on P3 of Resignation. Continue to Resignation's belay.

P3: Follow P4 of Resignation.

Clásica 90m, 3
16 Absolutely Fabulous
1 16
2 16

Great first pitch up face left of Skylark. Second pitch is a bit scrappy until a good finishing headwall.

  1. 55m (16) Start just left of Skylark and make your way up and left to left side of bulge. Continue up face more easily but with a couple of runouts to good ledge and ring-bolts..

  2. 33m (16) Easy face up left to bolt rap anchors, go left a bit then up and back right under bulge then up right side of bulge and up towards left side of headwall. Committing moves up onto headwall until able to traverse right and eventually to rap anchor at Flinders Lane,

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Little & Keith Lockwood, 2015

Clásica 88m, 2
16 Skylark

This good climb starting up the left arete of 'Kestrel' is probably best done with a long first pitch. A lot of parties take advantage of the rap anchor and skip the second pitch or do 'Kestrel Direct Finish'. However the second pitch has some good climbing, especially on the crux overhang low down. Noddy graded the top section 12 back in the day but is now unable to identify where it went. They may have gone much further right or maybe just a sandbag. Now has a lower-off on top pitch to avoid bushes and loose rock on exit - 60m rope mandatory.

  1. 55m (16) Climb arete left of 'Kestrel' until it is more logical to continue up the seam and face left of the arete to the chain belay of Kestrel.

  2. 30m (16) Traverse right from the belay, above Kestrel's corner, and up a little to ledge, up crack in the steep wall. Then take the right-hand option up to the final overhangs. Climb these, moving right and up to anchor. 30m lower off to anchor for Diving Deep / Surfacing. 55m (or 30m + 25m) abseil to ground from there.

FA: Matt Taylor, Keith Lockwood & Nick Andronis, 1975

Clásica 85m, 2
16 Yo Yo

The major left-facing corner facing 'Kestrel' is another well-trodden favourite. The second and third pitches can be fairly easily combined, especially if double ropes are used.

  1. 25m (13) Climb the corner to a block on the right just below the overlap.

  2. 13m (16) Short, technical layback flake then move right into chimney and up to stance. The wide crack leading directly into the chimney goes at the same grade but is not as good.

  3. 13m (15) Take the right-hand of the twin grey corners (The corner on left is 18).

  4. 40m (13) Go up 7 metres, left to skirt overhang and follow line up slightly right to Flinders Lane.

FA: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965

Clásica 90m, 4
16 Monkey's Paw

Nice long pitch with multiple tricky sections

Climb orange crack 4 metres left of 'Syrinx', just right of GWDS. When it stops, step left to the next orange crack. Up easy ground to small orange R facing corner, step left and through overlaps 2 metres left of "interesting move" on 'Syrinx'. Up to 2nd belay on Syninx. Continue up that or roped traverse across to abseil on 'Nakablitz'.

FA: Recorded: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992

Clásica 42m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
16 Deathwatch Beetle
1 13 27m
2 16 27m
3 10 35m
4 45m

This fine climb varies considerably from the original climb but is much better. Start as for 'The Lute Direct'.

  1. 50m (13) As for 'The Lute Direct', bridging the deep line 7 metres right of Syrinx. At 20 metres continue straight up the steep thin line. At 40 metres, traverse 10 metres right on small ledges past a several anchors of old pegs to a larger part of the ledge and chains ( the 'Broken Song' anchor).

  2. 35m (16) Up left-facing shallow corners to the smooth wall at 12 metres. Step right then up the delicate, bolt-protected wall. Move back left and climb the steep, juggy weakness to easier ground and a ledge beside The Belvedere. The original start to this pitch was well to the right, followed a ramp then made a long traverse back left to the steep, juggy weakness.

  3. 45m (10) Polished juggy wall just left of The Belvedere to join 'Syrinx' at the overhang. Scramble easily off right.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman (alt). Pitch 3 direct variant : Simon Mentz & Glenn Tempest., 1981

Clásica mixta 130m, 4, 1
16 Radish

(Somewhat rad?) A long adventure on good rock, straight to the summit of the mount. Individual pitch grades not supplied - the overall grade is 16 but some pitches are easier.

The last pitch is in a similar vein to the forgotten final pitch of Shaggy's Route and could well have been better consigned to the same fate.

Start: Start up easy, vegetated crack about 5 metres right of Shaggy's Route. This is also the start of 'The Wobble'.

  1. 30m (13) Climb the easy crack and keep in the line (via hand crack through bulge) all the way to a good ledge on the right.

  2. 30m (16) Up wall to corner which leads to right side of prominent roof. Pass roof on right and continue past right edge of next roof. Bridge up line until a ledge appears on the left.

  3. 30m (10) Straight up line. Belay below long horizontal line of overhangs.

  4. 20m (12) Move left and up past left edge of overhangs to terrace. Up wall immediately left of trees to nice orange alcove.

  5. 40m (16) Up wall to long roofline on the left. Traverse 2.5 metres right at the roof and up past its right edge. Up easily, veer right, then up wall direct to summit block. Bridge up undercut corner on the left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, Ray Lassman & varied leads, 2006

Clásica 150m, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Roadside Crag
V0 Juggy traverse
Búlder 4m
V0 Western Face

Climb up anywhere along the western face, it's all about the same grade.

Búlder 3m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V0 #3 slabby crack on Face of boulder behind

Beautiful incident cracks to high finish. Descent same way or over back.

Búlder 7m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Good Morning Arapiles
V0 Traverse
Búlder 2m
V0 Selected Climbs problem #2
Búlder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag
16 The Hun

Reachy moves up the R side of the wall facing the campsite, past a piton and not much else for gear.

Start: Traverse in from the start of Procul Harem (easy but exposed - you might want to rope up).

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1965

Clásica 13m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Pan Grove
16 Celeste

In the shade for most of the day, so a good one to do when's it's hot. Oh, and the good bit may be short but it's feisty. Originally graded 12! Below the L-facing grey corner at the R end of the wall. Wander up to the corner, and jam it until it eases, then continue up to the arete. Rap anchor (30m) on finishing ledge (to the R).

FA: Rein Kamar & Bill Andrews., 1969

Clásica 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Argyle St Clump
16 No More Gaps

Follow cracks up R-wards to a bold finish up the R arete of the gully face.

Start: Start in the gully around L of 'Argyle Street' at a grassy patch.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1998

Clásica 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Rats Alley
16 Nymph

Thrash up the chimney to a crack on the R wall.

Start: Wander up the gully to the base of the chimney.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Uebergang, 1967

Clásica 42m
16 Ckoff

"For historical reasons only..."

Start: Near 'Nymph'.

FA: Norm Osborne, 1970

Clásica 57m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall
16 Pointy End

Committing crux with less-than-the-best gear. Left-facing corner at the left end of the cliff, just right of a callitris tree. Finish up gentle wall to bolt belay.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 18 Jun 2018

Clásica 20m

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