도움

접속점들 Bouldering에서

~에 탐색하기:

탐색 필터들:

~에 의한 분류

모든 {수} {대상들} 보이기

접속점
Bouldering

Boulders littered throughout the floor of The Amphitheatre. Host to some fantastic climbing, though not well documented. If these already have names or you know who FAd please update them!

The back wall of the amphitheatre on your left as you scramble in. Some awesome problems, varying fr

The back wall of the amphitheatre on your left as you scramble in. Some awesome problems, varying from vertical to steep. Some nice easy warm ups. Can run with ground water, so summer and autumn are the best time of year for these problems.

VB Back Wall Warm Up #1

Sit start.

VB Slab

The Park Ranger has stated that no climbing is allowed in the area on weekends and public holidays. Many lives have been lost and they don't want non-climbers putting themselves at risk wandering away from the lookouts.

V0 Back Wall Warm Up #2

The Park Ranger has stated that no climbing is allowed in the area on weekends and public holidays. Many lives have been lost and they don't want non-climbers putting themselves at risk wandering away from the lookouts.

V0 Back Wall Warm Up #3

The Park Ranger has stated that no climbing is allowed in the area on weekends and public holidays. Many lives have been lost and they don't want non-climbers putting themselves at risk wandering away from the lookouts.

V0 Back Wall Warm Up #4

The Park Ranger has stated that no climbing is allowed in the area on weekends and public holidays. Many lives have been lost and they don't want non-climbers putting themselves at risk wandering away from the lookouts.

VB Back Wall Warm Up #5

The Park Ranger has stated that no climbing is allowed in the area on weekends and public holidays. Many lives have been lost and they don't want non-climbers putting themselves at risk wandering away from the lookouts.

V1/2 Sunfish Boulder

Start at big flake left of 'Man the Guns' and traverse left without using the top edge of the wall. Crux is an interesting underarm crossover move that ends at the eye of the sunfish.

V7 Man The Guns

Stand start on slopey edges. Two tricky moves to the flat lip. Slippery!

https://youtu.be/4yhMBqcHYow?t=133

Project?

Sit start.

Stand has been done... quite awkward

V1 Perched

Sit start on the right. Up the jug flake then make an exposed traverse left to top out on the obvious ledge.

V1 Borderline

sit start. Up jugs, scary topout...

V3 Over The Line

High and terrifying. Sit start and then come out left onto the face into a terrifying ending.

Blue Steal

Sit start on good flake then up the overhanging face trending left. Bulk hard.

V7/8 Blue Steal Right

Sit start, up the right arete. Powerful and technical to the lip then trend left to topout. Direct topout has also been done and is slightly harder. https://vimeo.com/326212278 @4:19

V8/9 Blue Steal, Right (Direct)

The direct finish - avoiding going to the jug on the left. Instead do a tricky mantle onto the bulge. May add a grade - hard to tell.

V1 Sea Spray

Sit start. Up the obvious vertical crack then escape to topout... scary. (Can escape topping out left or right ).

Listed as ‘sea spray’ gr14, 7m FA by R Doherty, A Webb nov 1990. Easily protected with bouldering mats, and obvious sitter.

Tessalate Proj?

Sit start at the base of the obvious prow. Slap up to gain the obvious flat jug. Ballsy topout.

V4 Tessalate Right

Stand start. Up the right face. Scary up high...

Trad wall (aka Atolls Away Wall)
Project #1

Vertical highball granite climbing. Left most project on the wall. Stand start with obvious sidepull features and directly up into thin slopey holds then question marks to gain the thin seam Lower moves have been done.

Project #2

Vertical highball granite climbing. To the right of 'Project #1' Stand start with good obvious holds and up with easy moves to the obvious edges then scary moves to gain the good holds up high. Lower moves have been done.

Project #3

Vertical highball granite climbing. Hard and thin. Stand start, traverse right then desperately thin moves.

V5/6 The Hurricaine

Sit start on flat rail (doesn't make much of a difference, but the original start is from the lowest of the two horizontal rails with a long-ish move up the the higher rail). Up through the roof with the flake system. Finish matched on the underclings (boulder problem is a drop off).

Can be linked into the the trad route 'Crosswords' - making 'Local Anaesthetic'

Julz

V6/7 R Local Anaesthetic

Sit start as for 'The Hurricaine' but instead of dropping off at the underclings continue to quest up as for 'Crosswords'/'Listen To The Wind Blow'

FA done as a boulder problem after working the top on toprope for many months. Probably more accurately described as a free solo or alternatively if done as a sit start with harness and gear a sit start to the trad climb 'Crosswords'.

Main Boulders

Boulders littered in the middle of the amphitheatre. Great range of problems. The problems are listed in roughly clockwise fashion as you walk in.

V3 Party Pooper

Sit start on the right. Straight up with weird moves.

Variant: sit start on the flake on the left

V4/5 Training Traverse

Start as for ‘Party Pooper’ traverse left and around the corner into the slab and traverse the slab to top out on the far left corner as for ‘Port’. The lip is out for the traverse until you link into port. Contrived, but good for training slab..

V2 Bloc Party

Sit start far right, traverse left to top out on the arete. Direct (starting on the flake and up the arete) = V1

V4 i ladies

sit start right hand on the slopey crimp and left on the low bulge on the arete, gain the jug and top directly up with a mantle and a big slap avoiding the left arete. Can be linked into the other existing climbs

V1 Not Invited

Sit start with crimps. Straight up.

V1/2 Starboard

Sit start with flake. Tricky to establish, then straight up.

V2 Port

Sit start on the triangular feature with smears. Up the left arete.

V0 The Chisel

Sit start.

V1 No Headway

Sit start. Tricky start move to gain jugs.

V4 Spectator Sports

Sit start with high left hand on the arete and right hand pinch then slap your way up. Classic! https://youtu.be/z6O06yvfO5Y?t=11

V5 Spectator Sports, low

Start left hand on the good low hold (where you start the left heel for the original) and right hand as low as you can on the right crack. Adds some cool tricky moves into the original sitter, but is a bit contrived

V6 Toe Tipping, low

Low start

V4/5 Toe Tipping

Start the same as Spectator Sports, traverse right to the jug and finish at the top of Shirt Dab.

V5 Shirt Dab

Sit start, right hand arete left hand undercling. Sneaky beta to gain the jug and top out.

V0 Warm Me Up

Sit start on juggy side pull up up the face.

V0 - 1 No More

Sit start with left hand jug and right hand on the arete. Tricky move to establish.

V3 Barefoot Bandits

Sit start with left palming down and feet out right. Just press up and grab the lip, then traverse and finish left. Silly stuff, if you're tall its not even a problem.

Fun variant was done by starting in a handstand, step your hands up onto the boulder, then rotate around like a clock and once upright again, finish as normal.

V1 Squeezing Them Out

Sit start, up the vague arete.

V2 Count Your Blessings

Sit start on the far left. Up the face. Thin.

V4 Free of Fancies

Sit start in the middle of the face. Trust your feet on the way up.

V4/5 Read Between the Lines

Sit start matched on the obvious flat jug. Tricky moves straight up the face.

V1 Toe The Line

Sit start on good hold. Long move up and right.

V5/6 The Amphitheatre Traverse

Sit start on the far left as 'Count Your Blessings' and traverse right to finish up 'Toe the line'. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1YnOs-mBWU

V3 Thrown Overboard

Sit start with sharp left hand undercling and slopey pinch. Tricky smear to slap the lip and top out.

VB Split

Crouch start. Up the crack.

V5/6 The Mega-Futuristic All Time Epic Problem

Sit start with slopers and good feet. Awkward moves traversing right and to get around the corner and join the east crack of ‘split’

V3 Romanza

Sit start, up the arete and right face avoiding the boulder behind you.

V8/9 Sea Shanties

Sit start with obvious ear hold and good foot. Up and right to Gaston crimp then into the horizontal break. Traverse right and finish as for ‘Last Fair Deal’

V4 Last Fair Deal

Sit start, squeeze your way up the arete and left face avoiding the boulder behind you. Tricky up top.

V0 Chocabloc

Sit start. Corner crack

V2 Nocturne

Stand start. Up the triangular face avoiding the left boulder.

V2 Fair Dinkum

Sit start. Traverse the rising crack rightwards to finish up easy jugs on the right.

Also a sit that can be added into 'Fancy Free' if you like..

V0 Fair Dinkum Direct

Sit start

V3 Fancy Free

Stand start on the crack. Up the face. Optional sit on the left.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1YnOs-mBWU

V2 Tai Chi Left

Stand start and head up and left through the edges.

V4 Tai Chi Right

Stand start. Bit of an eliminate - balancy moves to head straight up to obvious high flat rail. Optional sit start that adds a grade.

V5 The Gladiator

Sit start as low as you can in the roof. Rad moves on some steepness into a sketchy topout. Only viable in low swell and low tide.

V2 Mini-adventure

Sit start.

V1/2 King Waves Kill

Sit start. Shoulder your way up. This one is right in the king wave zone so low tide and swell is the way to go. Watch those pads!

V8/9 Absolution

Stand start with right hand undercling and left hand sloper at the bottom of the huge roof to the right of 'Mini-adventure'. Flowing movement on jugs into the guts of the roof and a radical high tension crux. Avoid the dab and top out. A classic!

Needs low swell, low tide and a good going easterly to dry off. Sketchy landing.

https://youtu.be/G-sbC4BD0pI

V11 Desolation

Sit start deep in the roof on the obvious flat jug on the left. Move right into hard moves to join the stand - 'Absolution'.

https://youtu.be/dt2dJuzYuf0

Low Low

The Park Ranger has stated that no climbing is allowed in the area on weekends and public holidays. Many lives have been lost and they don't want non-climbers putting themselves at risk wandering away from the lookouts.

V4/5 Drop Off Kings

Located around the back of 'The Block' facing the ocean. Sit start with slopey holds on the far right and move into the juggy rail. Traverse left along the obvious flake and drop off at the end of the flake (roughly where the brown streak starts). Pumpy. Tricky to grade... 4/5?

V7/8 Sea Sick

Sit start. Up the layback jugs. Big move to finish, with various options for beta.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiFT3DUkX-o

V5/6 Barnacle Bill

Sit start on flat edges. Tricky starting move. https://youtu.be/4yhMBqcHYow?t=97

Thin Crack Proj?

The Park Ranger has stated that no climbing is allowed in the area on weekends and public holidays. Many lives have been lost and they don't want non-climbers putting themselves at risk wandering away from the lookouts.

V8 to V9 TBA

Sit start on jugs of FITH, but head out the opposite way. Once you gain the face exit straight up with big undercling and avoid trending right

Tension dependent and hard.

https://vimeo.com/326212278 @5:15

V4 Fire in The Hole, Midstart

Classic in its own right! Start on the jug on the corner of the roof and follow the edge rail out right to finish up the arete. Classic!

V7 Fire In The Hole

Sit start deep under the roof, traverse right to the roof corner then turn the corner and follow right on good edges. Avoid the boulder underneath. An instant classic! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNZda2-GaD0

V7/8 Fire In My Hole

Sit Start under the roof same as Fire In The Hole, but exit straight up the face rather than traversing along the rail

Starting at the edge of the roof nets you V5/6.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flK9qlzew4c

V1 Gunpowder and Steel

Sit start. up the flake.

V1 The Long Nines

Sit start with slot for hands. Up with jugs and a fun sequence trending right.

V1 Canons

Stand start on flat holds and up.

The Chasm

On the right as you walk in is The Chasm. Usually wet, unless the swell/tide are low. Some fun ones, with more to go...

The Low Tide Roof

Has this been done? who knows - looks cool though!

V2 Short and Steep

the crimp broke

Sitstart with slopers. Big move left and up on jugs

V1 Colosseum

Sit start, up with easy moves into a slopey topout

V1 My Life With The Thrill Kill Cult

Sit start and up the good holds. A bit of a dodgy landing, but easy up high.

V2 After The Flesh

Sit start with the break. Up to the obvious flake into an easy top.

Possible hard vert projects

The Park Ranger has stated that no climbing is allowed in the area on weekends and public holidays. Many lives have been lost and they don't want non-climbers putting themselves at risk wandering away from the lookouts.

모든 {수} {대상들} 보이기

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文