접속점들 Mitre Rock에서

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock South Area or Mitre Rock North Area

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock South Area

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

After pulling onto the grey nose, continue straight up the arete.

An OK route by a couple of disruptive characters. Scramble up to wall at left end of cliff. There's a blocky grey nose atop an orange overlap.

The second pitch is pretty stiff for the grade.

The Shepherd guide has the second pitch going right and up what is now Wee Skerrick though that's hard to reconcile with the, admittedly vague, text in the Lockwood guide.

Start at the easy-angled grrove about 20 metres left of Acapulco Gold.

1. 18m (7) Up the line with good protecetion and belay on obvious large diagonal ledge/ramp.

2. 12m (13) Steeply up wall to crack then hard moves lead to easier ground.

Great dogleg crack up smooth wall at the left end of the cliff.

Start from a cairn 2 metres right of Acapulco Gold and boulder up to join Loudly Inferior.

Up to small bush and then left and up to tricky finish. Start at undercling 4 metres right of Acapulco Gold.

A worthwhile companion route to 'Acapulco Gold'. Hard start with no gear till a few metres up. Pumpy continuation up and right. Start as for Loudly Inferior.

The following two routes start off a ledge about two thirds of the way up the cliff.

This is the next line up the ramp from the first belay of The Baptism.

Pumpy wall-climbing starting just right of Wee Skerrick from a block.

A quite good top pitch. This old route originally started up The Baptism and then traversed right in a very strange way only a few metres below the major ledge system. Here it's described with a direct start just left of The Nude Balloon Dance, offering a much better climb. The first pitch can be done as an easy climb in it's own right - has some OK moves but is a bit broken.

1. 30m (8) Climb the line 2m left of The Nude Balloon Dance until below the steep orange headwall. Move left and up to the major ledge system.

2. 12m (14) A hard pull into the shallow black corner then traverse right for 2m and move up. Now up and slightly left to finish almost directly above the start of the pitch.

Not as good as first thought but not bad and shady for most of the day. Usually done in one pitch.

Start below the right of two obvious weaknesses right of Acapulco Gold.

1. 12m (7) Follow line to good ledge on right.

2. 18m (7) Step left then up line. When gully is reached, either climb easy wall on right or traverse easily right on narrow ledge to rap anchor of Serpent.

A wandering excursion that has not captured the imagination. Start as for The Nude Balloon Dance.

1. 24m (15) Straight up for 12 metres to left end of a ledge (This is the first pitch of The Nude Balloon Dance). Move up and right on red rock to another ledge.

2. 23m (17) Go right along ledge and up into corner of 'Serpent'. Go up 3 metres then right to arete to finish over overhang (Serpent Direct Finish).

Hard start and finish. Grade is very height-dependent, especially the start of the final wall which will be easy for people well over 180cm tall and desperate if much shorter than that. Originally started up first few metres of The Nude Balloon Dance but now has a direct start and a bolt added to final wall (with permission of Phil Armstrong). Phil originally stormed up the final wall oblivious to the lack of protection after a major falling out with his climbing partner. Start midway between The Nude Balloon Dance and Serpent below a short incipient flake and FH. Up past FH to ledge, step left and then up right-tending ramp to next ledge. Go up to steep, left-leading flake and follow this to below final wall. Past FH and up to ledge and traverse right to anchor of Serpent.

The start is a bit like Paladin but three grades easier. Beware a large loose block at 8m.

Overhanging seam between Renunciation and Serpent LHS, ramble up a bit then arete and wall past two bolts to Serpent chains. Pro is hard to place on the start. Directly below the Serpent chains if you'd prefer to TR.

Fantastic climbing. There is a variant start to the left at the painted initial "S" but the way described is better. Start below right-hand line up the sombre cleft, right of the initial "S".

1. 35m (11) Veer up left and climb orange corners, then left and up to tiny ledge. Step left then up steep, right-facing box-corner.

2. 8m (5) Either rap off (28 metres) or walk left along ledge and go up.

Sustained with a good finish. Start as for Serpent. Follow Serpent for 25 metres then up the steep corner on the right. Pull through overhang and up.

Fairly dramatic but not obviously appealing. Start as for Serpent.

1. 36m (10) Up Serpent for 25 metres then go diagonally right to a small ledge under a prominent white streak. Here you join The Fall of Man: step across gap above roof and up to big ledge.

2. 24m (11) Walk right 6 metres and finish up The Bishop.

A weird crux on pitch 2 could fool some people. Pitch 1 is very worthwhile however and it's easy to step R a few metres to finish up Revelations pitch 2 or The Bishop pitch 2 if you don't like the look of the roof slot.

1. 25m (11) Start up Serpent then take right-facing corner to overhang. Through overhang and up to ledge.

2. 20m (14) A total one move wonder. Jam/squirm/thrash up the roof crack then up easy chimney.

The deep cleft isn't the problem; it's the technical crack at the finish. Start at the right-hand line in the cleft, as for Serpent.

1. 30m (15) Easily up right side of chimney to a big roof. Exit right and continue up on steep rock to a big ledge.

2. 18m (17) Up thin, left-leaning corner crack to easy ground.

Start as for Revelations, Serpent, etc.

1. 26m (11) Climb steep right wall of cleft to large ledge.

2. 24m (11) Step up to smooth orange wall. Don't go straight up but step right and pull up steep arete. Up a few more metres then veer right and up right wall.

1. 26m (11) Up the right arete of the Revelations cleft to big ledge.

2. 24m (17) Pull overhang between Revelations and The Bishop then trend right and up or continue up front of buttress (but be careful of huge detached blocks).

Exciting route on overhanging orange wall at front of the buttress. Start on righthand edge of the cleft as for Stinkbug Shuffle.

Start 5m right of Seamy Side. Follow black streak up thin crack through bulges. When crack ends at around the 10m mark, step left and continue up clean headwall to top. Descend off Seamy Side anchors.

Subtle and sustained with small protection at start which is hard to place. Start about 6-7 metres right of the arete at a clear initial C.

Thin, poorly protected line then easily right. Now up left to large ledge, or could continue up Jidas which is directly above. Start about 3 metres right of the initial C.

A wandering route that isn't worth it. Start 5 metres right of Behemoth below box-groove.

1. 30m (15) Up for 5 metres to ledge. Traverse left then climb next line to blocks. Move left and up thin bulging crack and wall to ledge.

2. 25m (15) Step left around left arete of face then up 2 metres and step back right. Move up and right to finish.

A topo of this route was posted on the Arapiles toilet notice-board. A dramatic link-up from Holy Roller into Youth In Asia. There's a fair bit of lichen and the rock looks suspect in places but could be worth a look. However, the time for naming the climb after the climbers has long passed. Start as for Holy Roller or Behemoth.

A major line with lots of scary loose blocks. Start 5 metres right of Behemoth below box-chimney.

1. 25m (15) Climb easily across The Bishop's Crook into box-groove which is followed to loose flakes. Step left and up wall to ledge.

2. 25m (15) Follow line to steep yellow section. Step left below main overhang then up and back right above it, finishing up right.

Dramatic route but the rock can be quite alarming. The route originally only had the top pitch. They scrambled up the gully to the first belay. The first pitch was originally part of Youth In Asia. The climb is often done as a single long pitch.

Start about 3 metres right of the initial C, but there's no good reason not to start a few metres further right directly below the box-chimney.

1. 20m (14) Follow right-ward arching line that leads to box-chimney. Up left side of this (careful of loose flakes on right) then exit right to ledge.

2. 25m (17) Follow v-groove up wildly-steep arete.

This probably originally started in the same place as The Empire Strikes Back at the letter C, which is where we've placed it, but it would be more logical to start further right as for Behemoth.

1. 20m (12) Follow the difficult diagonal crack to box chimney. Traverse 3 metres right and climb wall to big ledge.

2. 32m (12) Scramble up gully for 13 metres, step left onto smooth grey wall. Traverse left to arete avoiding horrible loose block and up.

Doesn't look much but has easy climbing on superb rock. Start as for Youth In Asia.

1. 15m (8) Climb up a couple of metres to join the traverse-line of The Bishop's Crook and move right and up the wall to ledge as for that climb.

2. 25m (9) Follow the easy ramp on the right for about 10 metres until below the first direct line of weakness. Go straight up the steep wall.

Takes prominent ramp on the wall left of Guiding Light. Essentially provides an easier finish to He Certainly Is. Start in the gully uphill from The Bishop’s Crook.

1. 18m Up nice grey wall opposite Guiding Light, with a step right 3-4m up. Belay on big ledge.

2. 14m Short crack, then follow right-trending ramp to the base of the prominent corner.

3. 18m Climb the shorter (and easier) corner on the right, then trend up right to top-out where Guiding Light finishes.

Climbs pitch one of Guiding Light to ledge, then through gully to exit.

A quirky ramble that is very enjoyable. There was a serious accident on this climb a couple of years back, showing that a lapse of concentration can get you hurt anywhere. Start at the foot of the chimney-gully.

1. 32m (4) Climb diagonally rightwards up the easy wall to large ledge.

2. 13m (6) Scramble 5 metres to next ledge and take vague corner-weakness 4 metres right of arete to summit. This summit has also been reached by the wall on the opposite side of the block, from within the chimney; much harder and not recommended.

3. 15m (6) Downclimb from summit, step across chimney then up wall to main summit.

1. Climb first pitch of Guiding Light to large ledge. Belay at left end of ledge near the base of wide chimney.

2. Climb the juggy left face in chimney to join the finish of the original route.

Some nice moves. The gear is poor until the V-groove is reached but the climbing is easy to that point; better protection is available for the harder climbing.

The major orange corner has a few boisterous moves. Be aware that the first gear is too low to keep you off the boulder if you come off the balancy slab.

An enigmatic start up thin crack left of Hopscotch. After 6 metres head up right to a ledge on the arete and finish as for Hopscotch.

Used to be a grade 21 sandbag.

Up to the roof, left through it and up. Quite fun on toprope.

Red-hot start then good pumpy climbing. Start at a small cave below curving line 4 metres right of Hopscotch.

Start up arete just right of Cayenne and go into a short seam which joins Cayenne below the top.

The distinctive black corner 5 metres right of Cayenne, finishing left above the corner.

A good technical crux and delightful top crack. Start just left of Mum's The Word at a nice-looking crack.

Consistently interesting climbing and a worthwhile addition to the wall. Up the leaning, awkward corner of Mums the Word. Step L, up the cracks, then pull the fingery arete (bolt) to reach the narrow ledge. Resist the temptation to pull up and stand on the ledge, instead step across R into the finishing crack of Speechless. Lower-off anchors to the R.

Variant start to Speechless.

This short steep, left-leaning, black-streaked corner system closely resembles Walk On. Make sure you are on the correct route!

Originally climbed using two protection pegs which disappeared decades ago. A bolt added in lieu of the old pegs was chopped, presumably because of the possibility of a lower cam placement behind a dubious block. That block has fallen out (the climbing is now a grade harder than when the route was established) and the bolt has been replaced (to avoid a ground-fall that a fall from the crux would otherwise entail).

An unusual pitch that is both harder and better than it looks. Start as for Speechless, pull around the arete on the right, then up the blocky line to move up left to an interesting exit left of the thin crack through the bulge.

start a few metres right of the original (a metre or two right of the arete). Straight up to join the original line.

Start up Mediterranean Sundance Direct Start, then through the incipient seam midway between M.S and AaA. A nest of little cams can protect the crux finish

Good sustained climbing. Protection is good but placing it is tiring. Double ring belay/rap anchor.

Toprope up the wall R of Anything At All. OK, nothing special.

Not that good, a bit loose and contrived. Start 2 metres right of Anything At All.

Another OK climb that's in the shade on a hot morning. Shares the good start of Off The Shelf and takes an easier logical finish just left of the easy corner. Good rock and protection.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock South Area

2 meters L of When Kim Was a Girls Name, up weakness to front of butress and R to finish a the top of WKWAGN

Climb wall direct to a prominent sentry-box at top of cliff.

Face left of "Armageddon" to orange bulge which is turned on right. The bulge has been taken direct at 20 via a line half a metre left of this one.

The sustained dog-leg crack to a steep, juggy finish.

Traverse left and up through a wide crack.

Start: Start 5 metres up and right of "Armageddon" at initials "HB"

Go straight up, moving slightly right to a contrived, but worthwhile finish.

Start: Start as for "Hell's Bells"

Offwidth crack 2 metres right of "Hell's Bells"

A steep, pure hand-crack splits the front of the second outcrop at the base of the gully.

Gab Wall is a small marbled wall on the right side of the gully. This is worth a look even just to throw a top-rope on the bold routes. Walk up the Hells Bells track and cut across rather than going directly up the gully below the outcrop.

A most sustained mini-route. Crack-seam on left edge of face.

Good but there's only a 30-year-old piton between you and the deck on the crux and it's a long way up to the next runner.

Hard start 3 metres down right of The Gab Gets Up leads past pin and up to pocket (cam). Finish to right.

Lovely face but the cryptic name and ascentionists should give pause; the eman is not a misnomer. The grade has been arbitrarily bumped up from 18 to 20 and the deadly flag applied to give fair warning. A toprope inspection is advised.

The original description says "seam in middle of wall right of The Gab Gets Up" but it only makes sense as the seam in the middle of the wall right of Screwloose And Sexless.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock North Area

A number of climbs have been done on the little pinnacles in the middle of the gully but this is the only one recorded. Up the gully, on the pinnacle opposite 'Prelate', on the side facing the carpark.

Through the overhang then balancy moves to top.

Testy overhang.

Start: At top (right-hand) end of wall facing into the gully is obvious overhang with an unusual peanut-shaped jug above.

Up faint corner then swing onto the peanut and pull up the tricky wall above.

Up past hole and up arete, through small steepening.

Start: Squeezed between the 'Prelate' and 'The Priest' (ooh er).

Chimney-crack 2 metres left of "Prelate".

Face 1 metre left of 'The Priest'

Delightful moves up wall and thin bottomless crack 2 metres left of "The Priest"

The crack at the left end of the wall has a tricky move at half-height.

Start: Start 5 metres left of "Deacon's Dilemma".

Not a bad lead with enough gear in horizontal breaks (take cams) and interesting moves in between.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock North Area

If you're tired of Arapiles you're tired of life.

And you'll be tired after this. Overhung undercling flake with stuff all for your feet. You might not be surprised to find it hard for the grade.

Requires a bit of a grope around the bulge. The line about 3m left of The Archbishop. Groove to bulge, then on easily up to scoopy wall and upper wall.

Start at the painted initial 'A'.

1. 27m (10) Follow crack to V-corner and bridge up this (placing gear in some loose blocks) to ledge.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall.

Start 2 metres right of The Archbishop and go straight up wall to flat roof below left arete. Over this to seam just right of arete. If you climb this route direct it's about 22, it was originally given 18, not sure if this was just meant to be a sandbag or if they avoided the hard bits!

1. 27m (14) Start as for Penny Dreadful but diagonal delicately left and up to small undercling roof. Move up and right into right-facing corner and up to ledge.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall.

Start below thin seam on the first bit of orange rock left of the gully, 8 metres right of the initial A marking the start of The Archbishop.

1. 27m (11) Hard, avoidable, start up seam and through small bulge at 5 metres to ledge. Veer left to right-facing corner. A tricky move into corner then up to ledge. Rap chains.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall above.

Quite good moves on the top flake. Start as for Penny Dreadful or at the next seam to the right. Up to the blocky ledge then take the flake-crack right of the Penny Dreadful corner.

Takes the big wall around right from Leather Bound. So-so. Start up the gulch between Leather Bound and The Great White Hope, moving left to the prominent crackline on the wall around right from Leather Bound. Up crackline, step right through bulge, then finish up corner system on the front shoulder of the buttress.

Old-fashioned jamming up the line through a couple of overhangs. Be wary of loose blocks near the top. Start immediately left of Bangla Desh at obvious crack-line.

Worthless. Has lots of loose blocks as well.

Good rock. Takes the prominent prow 30 metres down left of Mason's Apron. There's a small, chipped mark near the ground.

1. 27m (10) Either climb the ramp from the right, or direct up a tricky seam to a small ledge under the overhang. Go 3 metres left then gain main, left-facing corner and go up.

2. 8m (5) Romp to the top.

A series of sustained moves.

1. Start as for The Parsons Nose Direct Start and continue directly through overlap and seam and up steep wall. Belay at ledge.

2. Move left through right facing corner and tricky overhang a few metres right of The Great White Hope.

A good climb for beginners to follow as protection is limited. Start 2 metres left of V-corner of Pete Made Us Do It.

Space filler.

An enormous pile of bat guano. Start below middle of big diagonal crack and scramble up to a ledge with an enormous pile of bat guano beneath roof.

The full name is "Regarding Apocalyptic 'Simpleton' 'Simpleton' Fun Penis Shooter Shrug Woof Hello". Despite this, it is not a great climb. Start 2m left of Through the Dardanelles.

Done Exodus and Cloaca and looking for another easy route? Below the Mason's Apron (left of Exodus) is a short pinnacle. This climbs the tallest part of the outside face.

Bolted line on back wall of Mason's Apron. Short and powerful. Start on the back of the Mason's Apron block.