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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
11 | ★★ Piccolo
1
11
18m
2
11
15m
FA: Garry Kerkin & Ian Speedie, 1965 | 33m, 2 | |||
11 | ★★ Piccolo Direct
| 33m | |||
17 R | ★★ Stentor
Subtle line on left side of the D Major Pipe. The third pitch, up the south-east face is mostly done as a climb in its own right.
FA: Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips & Kieran Loughran (p3 previously done by the Ottens who called it Rust Never Sleeps)., 1980 | 50m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Decibel
A few good moves up the front of the D Major buttress. Start at the lowest point of the buttress.
FA: Chris Baxter & Rod Young, 1976 | 50m, 2 | |||
10 | ★★ D Major
1
10
25m
2
10
25m
Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches". It is possible to escape from the first belay through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe. Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the D Major pipe.
FA: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1964 | 50m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Obbligato
Start as for D Major, then take the line between D Major and Libretto. FA: Unknown., 2000 | 50m | |||
16 | ★★ Libretto
Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section. Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of D Major.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger., 1968 | 50m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ Libretto - CS Concerto combo
This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of Libretto.
| 50m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ C.S. Concerto
A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up Holpyp which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric. Start in the D Major gully.
FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien. Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood had previously climbed pitch 2 in, 1967 | 50m, 2 | |||
13 | Holpyp
One of the old gullies that gets few takers. The roof is exciting but is also part of Ejaculation. FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull., 1965 | 50m | |||
15 | ★★ Ejaculation
Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots. Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst., 1967 | 50m, 2 | |||
17 | It Could Be Worse
How? The initial crack of Ejaculation and then straight up from the plaque. FA: Brigitte & Jon Muir.., 1984 | 50m | |||
23 | Quiet Time
A good pump in the Organ Pipes? Start left of Diapason, 2m right of Ejaculation, beneath obvious overlap. FA: Hoskins, Wilkins & Pritchard, 1995 | 20m | |||
8 | ★★ Diapason
1
7
20m
2
6
25m
3
8
10m
The first climb done in the Organ Pipes. A very pleasant outing. Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.
FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Rob Taylor, 1963 | 55m, 3 | |||
12 | Fugue
Another gully. FA: Bernie Lyons & Steve Craddock., 1965 | 63m | |||
19 | Juvenile Speed
A short, hard avoidable crux set amid a lot of easy climbing. Start as for Keyboard.
FA: John Stone & Richard Evans.., 1979 | 75m, 2 | |||
9 | ★ Keyboard
Deep crack on left side of Conifer Crack buttress, in the gully. Take some large gear. FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter., 1968 | 25m | |||
9 | ★★ Conifer Crack
1
9
40m
2
9
40m
Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).
FA: Chris Davis & Ian Guild., 1964 | 80m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Woodwind
The central line up the Conifer Crack buttress is unfortunately not very sustained. Also it has a habit of dealing out broken ankles to leaders falling at the end of the crux. Start just right of Conifer Crack. FA: Kieran Loughran & Neil Barr., 1982 | 30m | |||
14 | ★★ Fiddle Diddle
Desperate for short people. Start below the gully between the Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo pipes, immediately right of Woodwind. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Moss., 1983 | 30m | |||
14 | ★ Cod Piece
Not attractive. Start as for Fiddle until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo. FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Wilkins, 1995 | 30m | |||
15 R | ★ Fiddle
The left arete of the Didgeridoo buttress (the abseil route) looks good but protection is fiddly and there's a large hollow block that would ruin your day if it came off. Start as for Didgeridoo/Horn Piece. FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim., 1984 | 30m | |||
11 | ★★ Didgeridoo
Start as for Horn Piece on the Didgeridoo Pipe. Veers left from Horn Piece near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade. FA: Ian Speedie, Garry Kerkin & Mike Stone., 1965 | 35m | |||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece
The excellent thin cracks up the middle of the front of this pillar. Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams. FA: Chris Baxter & Matt Taylor, 1976 | 33m | |||
15 | Didge Rhand
A toprope route keeping just right of Horn Piece offers another option for a busy day. Rig from the Horn Piece bolts - long slings or cordalette. Could be lead-climbed but it is somewhat contrived and initial slab is unprotected - no bolt please. Start 2m right of Horn Piece just left of grotty crack. Slab to bushy crack. After crack follow Rhand side of arete. Pass small triangular overhang then move R and up to anchor. FA: | 33m | |||
15 | ★ Hornpipe
Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of Conifer Crack. This looks ordinary but it makes for a good continuation from Horn Piece or the other single pitches that lead to the big ledge. FA: Wayne Maher, Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1981 | 33m | |||
21 | ★ Pull Anchor
Climb Hornpipe for ~5m, then move left and up past a bolt (crux) and through a crack to a ledge. At the ledge move right to climb another crack, past another bolt. Ends at the same height as pitch 2 of Conifer Crack at a rap station. FA: muki woods | 30m, 2 | |||
10 | G String
Start at the first belay of Conifer Crack and climb the gully between the second pitch of Conifer Crack and the Red Wall. For the connoisseur of chossy gully routes. FA: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie., 1965 | 30m |
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