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등정들 The Pharos and Surrounds에서 다양한 완등 형태로서 Douglas Hockly에 의한

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  • Milestone
  • Wearable
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금요일 11번째 11월 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
22 Family Food - 누구와 becca saurus 전통등반 20m 좋음
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux

 
일요일 13번째 3월 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
15 Is It About A Bicycle? - 누구와 Wendy Eden 전통등반 12m 좋음
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.

 
6 Jack-a-Dandy - 누구와 Wendy Eden 전통등반 12m 평균
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner

 
목요일 3번째 3월 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
20 Eye Spy 전통등반 30m 좋음
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.

 
일요일 17번째 1월 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
18 19 No Turning Back 전통등반 20m 좋음
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.

 
22 Totally Foxed! 전통등반 20m 좋음
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.

 
19 Unemploid - 누구와 Kate Dooley 전통등반 15m 안하는 것이 좋음
Just one move then suss rock and gear.

 
목요일 3번째 12월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully Parsley Area
21 Parsley 전통등반 12m 아주좋음
This is excellent. Start is technical on great rock, finish is a bit easier. Looks like 23, even when you're on it! Might be a bit scary to lead in the bottom half. Top half would be fine.

 
21 Sage - 누구와 Wendy Eden 전통등반 12m 좋음
Good climbing, would be a bit worrying to lead in the lower third I think. And maybe a touch runout at the top.

 
18 Rosemary - 누구와 Wendy Eden 전통등반 10m 좋음
Good fun, plenty of gear.

 
토요일 14번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
27 Genug - 누구와 Gordon Poultney 혼합 고전등반 15m, 2 좋음
Has a very, very cool crux move - drive by from layaway to undercling

 
26 Yesterday 전통등반 27m 완전 구식
I think this is borderline 27. I'm always so impressed when people onsight this as it's hard, sustained and technical till close to the end.

 
23 Lunatic 혼합 고전등반 25m, 3 클래식
If only it didn't have the rest in the gully.. fabulous climbing. A small cam (green alien? blue alien? I forget) is a very, very good idea to back up (or replace) the peg.

 
18 Psychotic - 누구와 Juergen Bollinger 전통등반 20m 평균
Wouldn't bother doing it again. Doesn't come together that well.

 
19 Moo Hawaii 전통등반 25m 좋음
20 Blue Hawaii 전통등반 35m 좋음
Dodgy rock at the start detracts.

 
22 21 Yesterday's Rooster 혼합 고전등반 22m, 2 좋음
I always find this a bit scary - rock and gear at the start are a bit iffy. And it feels like 22

 
12 Sweet Bugger All 전통등반 30m 안하는 것이 좋음
I thought this was awful!

 
20 The Last Resort 전통등반 30m 평균
Loose

 
15 Future Past - 누구와 Ben Weissner 전통등반 31m 좋음
Actually good! Some loose blocks though.

 
23 Haphazard - 누구와 estherenita 전통등반 15m 아주좋음
Great - hard, continuous and varied. Only just managed to squeak up this one.

 
23 Not Just a Pretty Face 전통등반 35m 좋음
23 Fever Pitch 혼합 고전등반 30m, 2 아주좋음
22 Black Spasm - 누구와 Paul Deacon 전통등반 20m 좋음
Eases a lot after the roof. Some bees nearby.

 
토요일 14번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
24 Pattern Juggler Direct Start 전통등반 15m 좋음
25 More Moves 전통등반 10m 평균
Looks good but doesn't really come together

 
23 Milk Blood Variant Finish 전통등반 10m 좋음
I find this easier than the original!

 
23 Milk Blood - 누구와 Gordon Poultney 전통등반 10m 아주좋음
Went for it off the wire at the rest... and fell off the last move.

 
23 Pattern Juggler 전통등반 15m 좋음
Good climbing - yet another worthwhile 23 in Yesterday Gully

 
18 Tomorrow 전통등반 10m 좋음
Twicky, and be careful of the start

 
18 Undertow 전통등반 15m 좋음
Good, and probably easier than Tomorrow!

 
20 The Same Issues 전통등반 10m 좋음
19 Changin' Times 전통등반 10m 안하는 것이 좋음
Crap gear and dodgy rock

 
금요일 13번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
20 Hypnosis 전통등반 15m 평균
22 In Lemon Butter 전통등반 15m 아주좋음
You think you've done the crux, but you haven't.

 
23 Snow Blind 혼합 고전등반 15m, 1 아주좋음
Very good but slick

 
18 Four Sticks 전통등반 20m 좋음
22 Ephemeral Direct Finish 전통등반 22m 아주좋음
22 Ephemeral 전통등반 20m 좋음
24 Les Ordures Blanches - 누구와 Wendy Eden 전통등반 20m 좋음
22 White Heat - 누구와 Kate Dooley 전통등반 20m 아주좋음
21 21 R More of the Same 전통등반 25m 좋음
I thought gear was OK on this, but I've only done it once. My impression is that it doesn't deserve the R rating. Climbing was cool.

 
18 Turquoise 전통등반 25m 아주좋음
A little scary up the arete at the top as the rope stretch would land you on the ledge. You could belay on the ledge which would help if 18 is close to your limit.

 
19 19 R Green Shirt 전통등반 25m 좋음
Start is fun, finish is scary! There's a #3RP that is too low to keep you off the ledge and a loose flake you have to pull on. Happy not to do this one again.

 
23 23 R Cat People - 누구와 Gordon Poultney 전통등반 25m 평균
Had my best day ticking ghosts when I did Spasm, Genug and this.. though Gordy had to show me how to do this by the end.

 
금요일 13번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress
15 Pibroch 전통등반 20m 아주좋음
Great! Always fairly tough.

 
20 18 Whacky-Did 전통등반 20m 좋음
21 Ethereal 전통등반 20m 클래식
I love this route - varied, technical, good gear but you have to go above it. Shame it doesn't finish direct.

 
21 Running on Empty 전통등반 20m 좋음
I find this a little awkward.

 
24 Family Feud 혼합 고전등반 20m, 1 좋음
18 Today - 누구와 Kate Finnerty 전통등반 15m 좋음
Can be quite hard if you don't get it right! I've done a direct finish up the little wall above by accident with worthless gear and a scary mantle. Climbing's ok if you really want to risk your ankles.

 
금요일 13번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
12 Hendor 전통등반 36m 평균
Wouldn't do it again. Not sure how it gets a star. Gwen is better.

 
13 Long Hair And Great Coats 전통등반 35m 평균
Not that great - the top 5m are good!

 
18 19 Cheops 전통등반 20m 아주좋음
Very nice - 18?

 
11 Gwen 전통등반 20m 아주좋음
Really nice!

 
17 The Only Way To Fly 전통등반 15m 평균
Watch the rock

 
20 19 Fly By Night 전통등반 20m 좋음
Best started at ground level on the L wall for the full pump. Not the greatest gear or rock.

 
19 19 R Void - 누구와 Clive Curson 전통등반 15m 좋음
금요일 13번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
17 Spellbinder 전통등반 27m 클래식
Looks like you're in for heavy duty offwidthing, in fact there's some awesome face holds in just the right places. Great climbing.

 
22 Drivetime 혼합 고전등반 8m, 2 좋음
20 Traffic 전통등반 7m 좋음
18 Act in Haste 전통등반 12m 좋음
16 15 Angel Black 전통등반 12m 좋음
More like 16?

 
22 20 R Angel Grinder - 누구와 Kieran Lawton 전통등반 12m 좋음
Not sure if I did a direct but felt more like 22. No gear till about 6m, then fiddly wires for the crux.

 
19 A Short Crawl in the Pharos Gully - 누구와 Kieran Lawton 전통등반 12m 좋음
Amazing! Looks like 13 and rubbish, is in fact full on for 19, very odd, not that well protected. You won't forget this!

 
금요일 13번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Jackass Wall
18 The Last New Route at Arapiles - 누구와 Edwin Irvine 전통등반 35m 평균
금요일 13번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
8 Barefoot in the Park - 누구와 Wendy Eden 전통등반 15m 좋음
Nice. Chains above Flights of Fancy

 
금요일 13번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Jackass Wall
17 Jackass Crack - 누구와 Edwin Irvine 전통등반 35m 좋음
18 Nautilus - 누구와 Edwin Irvine 전통등반 35m 좋음
목요일 12번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites
19 Stairway to Hell 전통등반 20m 좋음
목요일 12번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face
21 Mental Debris - 누구와 Gareth Llewellin, Shaggy
1 21 ~에 의해 선등된 me
2
3
혼합 고전등반 40m, 1 평균
Just the first pitch - after which the rope we were using disintegrated spectacularly. Glad I didn't fall off!

 
20 20 R Dazed and Confused 전통등반 20m 좋음
Really quite scary. The gear's not great and the rock is worse. If in doubt, go sideways!

 
목요일 12번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
23 Shivers - 누구와 estherenita 전통등반 55m 아주좋음
Very good! The first pitch is good and tricky - well protected apart from the start of Kingdom Come. The second pitch is hard and intimidating - I had to come back on a second day (why do I always attempt things on the back of the Pharos when I am hung over?). Even Malcolm didn't onsight it! You do the crux off a small wire or two and then run it out quite a long way. Great route.

 
20 Kingdom Come 전통등반 45m 좋음
22 The Second Coming 전통등반 57m 안하는 것이 좋음
The only three star 22 at Arapiles? Really? Super greasy, wandery, contrived waste of time. Of all the routes on the back of the Pharos I've done this is the worst. A far better multipitch 22 nearby is the first pitch of Shivers and the second pitch of Trojan. And Squeakeasy is a far better candidate for the mount's only three star 22.

 
목요일 12번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
8 Spiral Staircase - 누구와 Tim Rogers 전통등반 100m 클래식
Fabulous.

 
10 The Shroud 전통등반 120m 좋음
OK but wandery

 
11 12 Hurricane Lamp Cracks - 누구와 Wendy Eden 전통등반 120m 평균
OK but wandery

 
18 17 Oceanoid 전통등반 75m 아주좋음
Too loose for three stars!

 
18 Transatlantic Crossing - 누구와 Wendy Eden 전통등반 40m 안하는 것이 좋음
Loose and not fun!

 
목요일 12번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
25 Spasm in a Chasm - 누구와 Gordon Poultney 혼합 고전등반 25m, 3 클래식
Doesn't seem that soft to me. I'd worked the crux but not the finish - when I got through I was too pumped to place the wire, ended up just laying one on for the last hold, which fortunately was a jug. Phew.

 
18 Virginia 전통등반 25m 아주좋음
Awesome!

 
16 Coming on Chris 전통등반 25m 좋음
I always find the greasiness and dodgy gear and rock disconcerting at the start of this. None of it is that bad but...

 
24 Nose Job 전통등반 30m 아주좋음
The initial corner would be daunting to lead. The top bit is great.

 
28 India - 누구와 Kate Dooley 전통등반 25m 아주좋음
TR'd it one day and led it placing the gear the next - it had 2 fixed wires so gear wasn't that hard to place. The bit up to the crux - about 24 - is really insecure and great climbing. The crux is interesting but the dyno for a gravelly fingerlock is not heaps of fun if you blow it. The top bit is easy (Gordy fell off it te he). Not a three star route though.

 
목요일 12번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
17 Garden Gnome 전통등반 20m 아주좋음
Very nice fun.

 
18 Commuted (Strange Fruit) 전통등반 45m 평균
Tried to do this.. what I did seemed more like 15

 
18 Death Row 전통등반 45m 아주좋음
Very odd getting out of the cell, but interesting after that too. Take some large cams for the start

 
13 Social Comment 전통등반 37m 좋음
Very hard for 13!

 
26 Redacted 1 (Social Retard) - 누구와 Kieran Lawton 혼합 고전등반 30m, 4 아주좋음
Really good, 4 x 23ish cruxes, a slopey bulge, a technical footsy traverse, a powerful iron cross, and a technical crank at the end. A great mirror image to Birdman.

 
15 Rush Hour - 누구와 Natasha 전통등반 15m 좋음
화요일 10번째 11월 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area
19 Sheckle - 누구와 adam demmert, Wendy Eden 전통등반 18m 평균
Not the greatest rock/gear/climbing but worth doing once.

 
22 Clap for Kiwis - 누구와 adam demmert, Wendy Eden 혼합 고전등반 18m, 1 아주좋음
Backed off this 10 years ago before the bolt was placed, and fell off it even with it! Really good rock and climbing, take a good number of small wires. Felt hard for the grade to me but Adam seemed to find a better sequence.

 
15 18 Jeckle 전통등반 18m 평균
Bit of a shock even if you're expecting 15. I could easily believe 18 for the start. Lookout.

 
13 13 R Rush of Blood 전통등반 18m 좋음
Yep not much gear up top

 
15 Mr Hyde 전통등반 15m 아주좋음
Very interesting

 
17 Crack Attack 전통등반 15m 아주좋음
Harder than it looks!

 
21 21 R Wogs at the Piles 전통등반 15m 좋음
Pretty much all the gear is not that inspiring.

 
18 17 The Creesed Palm - 누구와 adam demmert, Wendy Eden 전통등반 14m 좋음
Adam did a more direct start traversing below the corner and up. Good climbing apart from a few loose blocks.

 
17 Double Decker - 누구와 Wendy Eden, adam demmert 전통등반 13m 평균
OK face climbing, a tad loose feeling.

 

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