A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Guy Moore Laurence Judd pamelalansbury Craig Brownlie Campbell Gome Dan Berry Rod Vincent Thananthorn Suriyasenee Dan millar Daniel Toone
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Blackwood
94 in Crag
- 1.1. Paul's Roof 62 in Crag
- 1.2. Magpie Gully 14 in Crag
- 1.3. Smoke Cave 18 in Crag
- 1.4. Limmo's Roof 0 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Blackwood 94 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
모두 볼더링
Lat / Long: -35.022728, 138.603537
설명
Blackwood is a suburb in the south west of Adelaide.
접근
Blackwood is accessible by car via Shepherds Hill Road or Main Road.
숙박 장소
Accommodation is available in Adelaide.
1.1. Paul's Roof 62 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -35.013804, 138.605585
윤리문제
Take out everything you bring in. Leave no rubbish. Don't vandalise the rock or surrounds. If you use the mats roll them back up and put them back where you found them! Keep noise to a minimum.
1.2. Magpie Gully 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -35.031656, 138.604054
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Snakes Alive
Start matched a big sloper on the left side of the crag. Move out right to a big sidepull on the arete, then diagonally left to crimps in line with the arete. Top out. | V5 | ||||||
2 |
Snakes Alive Direct
Start as per Snakes Alive and then right hand up to the arete and top out. Originally done by putting the right foot high right (making it V6), however more cunning people (with amazing technique) worked out the left foot on the starting hold made it much easier. | V5 | ||||||
3 |
Married to a Magpie
Standing start with a good LH edge and thinner adjacent RH edge, then lock down to gaston the arete up and left. Match this and topout diagonally left via crimpers. | V4 | ||||||
4 |
★ Magpie Roast
(SDS). Start under the roof beneath the start holds of 'Married to a Magpie'. Climb into the start of that problem (blind move LH) then bust up and right to a big sidepull. Topout. | V3 | ||||||
5 |
★ Lateral Thinking
Start as for Mach III, move RH into a hard gaston, then LH to the Bicep Buster sloper, RH out to the sloper of Magpie Has Landed, match this, then finish up that problem. FA: Steve Kelly | V6 | 2m | |||||
6 |
★ Unemployment Benefits
9 move power endurance line starting as for Mach III/Bicep Buster but busting left all the way across the Snakes Alive sloper. FA: 2013 | V7 | ||||||
7 |
★ Mach III
Powerful two move problem starting off the sloper below the roof (centre of the crag) then busting LH up to a poor sloper-edge and RH to the Mach III hold (sharp sidepull). Top out. | V6 | ||||||
8 | ★★ The Magpie Has Landed | V2 | 2m | |||||
9 |
★★ A Close Shave
Start on two small holds on the break (one being the right hand start hold of Magpie has Landed). Then RH to the sloper with the sharp crimp on it, LH to the slope with sidepull (intermediate) then left again to sloper. RH into vertical slot (sharp) then LH over the top to sidepull. Top out. | V3 | ||||||
10 |
The Ladder
Silly name for a great problem squeezed in between The Magpie Has Landed and A Close Shave. LH on the triangular sloper, RH on the next small crimp, over the top with the LH to another small crimp, then RH up to 2 more small crimps before getting to the finish jugs. | V5 | ||||||
11 |
Fusion Razor (trav)
Start as for Snakes Alive. Move RH to the good edge of Magpie Roast, then LH to a small undercut sidepull. Bump RH to the RH edge of Magpie Roast and move LH to its starting crimp. RH to the Mach III start hold, then LH to Magpie Roast R-hand edge. Bust a move to the Mach III sharp sidepull, then LH to the small edge above it and RH to the jug up right. Sequential, sharp and tough! | V5 | ||||||
12 |
★ Low Traverse (trav)
Brilliant climbing along a sustained and technical traverse. Do 'Snakes Alive', and at the big right hand side pull, continue low right thought the start of 'The Magpie Has Landed' Stand Start and finish up right of 'Warm Up 1'. | V6 | ||||||
13 |
★★★ Bicep Buster
FA: Paul Kinnane | V7 | 2m | |||||
14 |
★★ Pat's Extension
Start 'Very Low Traverse' into 'Bicep Buster' and finish as per route. FA: Pat Williams | V8 | 2m | |||||
|
1.3. Smoke Cave 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -35.014077, 138.601439
요약
Dry in the wet. Some holds outside the cave can get wet in the rain.
접근 문제들
None at present.
접근
Park at the end of Baeckea Place. Follow the dirt track down hill until you reach the train tracks. Follow the train tracks right for 30 metres until another dirt track is reached. Continue down the hill and until the cave is reached on your left hand side.
윤리문제
Take out all rubbish.
역사
Discovered by Paul Kinnane. Established by Paul Kinnane and Trent Searcy.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ The Kids are Restless
Sit start on the left hand entrance of the cave on the good side pull. Climb the diagonally trending feature and finish above the caves entrance. | V1 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ Fire Play
The obvious sit start to 'The Kids Are Restless'. Start as for 'Black Hole' just inside the cave on the side-pulls. Move left to the arete and climb 'The Kids Are Restless' to the top. Finishes once established on the face. Jump down. FA: pamelalansbury, 2022 | V3 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★ Head Like a Hole
Start as for Fire play. Before finishing Fire play- reverse the exit sequence of Nightmoves, gain the knee bar rest, then finish as for Black hole. FA: Dan millar | V7 | ||||||
4 |
★ Headcase
Firestarter start into Head Like a Hole FA: Redanon, 19 1월 FA: 19 1월 | V7 | ||||||
5 |
★ Firestarter
Two move sit start to Fireplay's one move sit start ha ha. Start as for Burning Down the House and traverse horizontally left into Fireplay's start. Finish as for that. Now easier with new intermediates thrown in. FA: 18 6월 2022 | V4 | ||||||
6 |
★ Hubbly Bubbly
Start as for Firestarter, then traverse into Head Like a Hole reversing the Night Moves exit from the cave and at the knee bar rest change direction by hopping onto Black Hole Sun and finishing as per that. FA: Rod Vincent, 30 12월 2022 | V5 | ||||||
7 |
★★ Black Hole
Sit start with R+LH on good side pulls. Climb up into 'Nightmoves' underclings and climb this route backwards. Once at the blocky undercling Head up and right and finish matched on the black hole in the back right hand side of the cave. FA: pamelalansbury, 4 7월 2020 | V7 | ||||||
8 |
★★ Blackout
Climb all of Black Hole, then back out via Nightmoves finish. 28-30 move marathon. FA: Redanon, 29 10월 2023 | V8 | ||||||
9 |
★★ Black Hole Sun
Start in the black hole at the back of the cave, climb into all of Nightmoves crux, then exit via Burning Down the House. FA: 22 8월 2021 | V6 | ||||||
10 |
★ Blackened
As for Black Hole Sun but takes the more direct Night Moves exit to finish. FA: Mitch Slocombe | V7 | ||||||
11 |
★★ Burning Down the House
Starts matched on the big undercling on the left hand side of the cave. Head left and finish on the headwall. FA: Paul Kinnane | V4 | 3m | |||||
12 |
★★ Fighting Fire with Fire
Burning Down the House to its 3rd hold, then press into a RH gaston into Nightmoves, gain its final kneebar, and finish as for that problem. Originally '5 until someone pointed out that Burning Down the House was about 3, if that! | V4 | 3m | |||||
13 |
★★ Hold Tight
(It's a line out of Burning Down the House). Links new territory straight into the Nightmoves crux, joining it at its crimper as a RH gaston. Start as for BDTH but with a RH on a slopey crimp in the middle of the wall. RH to gaston the Nightmoves intermediate crux crimp, then a very hard shoulder press into the remainder of the crux of Nightmoves. Finish as for that. FA: 28 9월 2021 | V7 | ||||||
14 |
★★ Gonna Burst into Flame
Start matched on BDTH undercling. Break up & right to flat slopey edge, then right gain into gaston press. Push up into bad undercling and cross LH to the good dish of Nightmoves. Finish in the black hole up and right. A unique sequence for this cave. FA: 12 10월 2021 | V8 | ||||||
15 |
★★ Fight Moves
Nightmoves, finishing up Burning Down the House. FA: 18 6월 2022 | V7 | ||||||
16 |
★★ Nightmoves
A Paul Kinnane vision of 2011/12 until Trent took the drivers seat. Starts in the back left hand side of the cave on left hand side pull (RH matched or below it). Move RH to gaston then pop again to a good edge and then left on a series of underclings. Head out the cave and finish on the headwall. Definitely nicer starting on the RH gaston - however description now reflects the FA. Guess everyone will have to do it again! Worth noting that the start hold did break around 2020 but still climbable via this method. FFA: TRENT SEARCY, 2012 | V7 | 4m | |||||
17 |
★★ Nightshift
Nightmoves start direct to the black hole finish. | V4 | ||||||
18 |
Smoke It If You Got It
Stand Start on RHS of Cave on big undercling halfway into cave. Move into roof via RH ear and crimpy sloper of Nightmoves. Move into the good underclings of BDTH and finish as for Burning Down the House. | V3 | 3m |