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Atlantis
Steep single pitch sport routes with rungs/ropes access and perched above a lovely bend in Hat Hill Creek. The cliff faces east - and is thus protected from the winter westerlies. The Upper Right Side Ledge easier routes come into the shade around 11am and are not bad on a hot day. The Upper Left Side Ledge routes get a lot more sun - until 2pm and are better for winter. This is one of the better wet weather options in the Mtns - even heavy rain is usually not a problem. Most of the best routes have now been rebolted (this area was once infamous for shite bolts). Some of the rock here is fairly fragile and sandy so take care on the less popular climbs. Most routes are belayed from narrow ledges where a slip unroped would be fatal. |
Ground Level
The first few routes are on a grey slab that you pass on the approach track - just before the access rungs leading up to the main cave itself. You can actually climb any of these routes and belay at the top and bring up your second rather than doing the rungs. |
Project
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
19
Subwoofer
Right of the slab routes. Very hard start for 19. |
22
Same Same But Different
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
20
★ Driving the Fat Farang
The easiest route at Atlantis - about 3 grades easier than the "19". Pretty fun despite appearances. Left of the slab routes - with a couple of sinker pockets to start then a juggy flake and wall. |
Upper Ledge Right Side
Up the rungs, then traverse right along fixed rope on sketchy ledge (clip in!) to larger ledge. |
22
★ Eurotic
Righthand route off the ledge. Belay off bolts to the left. Rebolted 2019 |
23
★ Twenty Something
Great rock and cool roof move - one of the best here. Unlike most routes off this ledge, this one has a nice pleasant juggy start. |
22
★ Bullshit Iceman
Bouldery start |
21
★ Wingman Anytime
The most popular route at Atlantis. Starts at far right end of fixed ropes. Very featured rock reminiscent of Logan Brae. |
22
★ Angry Angus
Stick-clip the high first bolt. Boulder through opening sequence then head out right and up the nice water washed rock. |
22
★ Greg's Route
1st route on the ledge. Above and right of fixed rope. Rebolted July 2021 |
23
★ Who the Fuck is Alice?
Steep start on jugs then a bit of an odd section weaving left up a shield, then back right (mantle!). Now finishes direct to new seperate lower-off anchors (it originally traversed way off right into Gregs Route). Rebolted 2021. |
23
★ Strutt Your Funky Stuff
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
24
★ Rooky of the Year
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
24
★★ The Diary of Ann Spank
Shared start with Rooky of the Year then left line of bolts. Anchors on slab kill your rope lowering off. |
25
★★ Gluten Glutton
Good steep fun with a low crux. Belay off low first bolt, and stick clip 2nd bolt. At 4th bolt do a hard traverse right along break then up (Don't get suckered going straight up to razor jugs). Bolts are in good condition. |
project
Project 1
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
23 R
A Little Bit Frightening
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
23
Fast as Lightning
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
22
Kung Fu Fighting
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
18
Funk Soul Brother
Access route to the mini routes above the big cave. Climb Hillbilly (24) then traverse right along break (grade 18) to small ledge. |
27
★★ Forever Midnight
The line straight up the middle of the overhanging amphitheater. A sustained pumper. Rebolted July 2021 |
24 R
★ Leftism
Shares start with Forever Midnight Above small boulder to the left of the access point. Traverses left. |
26
Nancy Boy
Extension is open for takers. |
29
The Fat Controller
Batman start. A few metres to the right 'She Male'. Near the right side of the cave. |
28
★★ She Male
Steepness Plus. As for He Man but straight out through the roof. Great climbing through very steep terrain. |
26
★★ He-Man
Steepness. Good fun pumper. Start on the far left side of the cave just next to the rungs. Traverse to arete and up. Rebolted July 2021. |
A roped-traverse on some "exciting" rungs to gain the main ledge system. Belay on single bolt on the
A roped-traverse on some "exciting" rungs to gain the main ledge system. Belay on single bolt on the rock platform, delicately up the rungs and left along the ledge to the belay. |
24
★ Hillbilly
The 1st route on the high ledge - immediately above the end of the access rungs. Easiest way to do this route is to belay down at ground level - and lead the rungs then continue up the route. Two long sling down low required to reduce ropedrag. Finishes at same anchors as He Man. The route can be cleaned on lower off but the final swing is epic! Rebolted 2019 |
24
★★ Hisbollah
Warning - Bolts are in poor condition on this route. |
22
★ Histrionix
Nice long pumper out the far right end of the belay ledge. Shares lower-off with Hysteresis. Rebolted 2018. |
23
★ Hysteresis
Belay on the larger ledge to the left. Rebolted 2017? |
24
★★ Hoderlump
Good long route on mostly big holds. Crux is somewhat reachy! Rebolted 2019. |
23
★★★ Highside
A quality steep route with an intense opening salvo and an airy bulgy roof above. This is the left route off the shared start. Rebolted 2018. |
25
★★ Herminator
Long steep pumper on aesthetic water-washed rock at the far left of the crag. Overhangs more than 5m, so lowering off requires a lasso from the belayer to retrieve the climber! Access either from the belay on the main lefthand ledge (by a roped traverse crawling along the ledge to the belay), or by abseiling in from the top. To find the top abseil, during the Atlantis approach, as the descent steepens near the end (just before the main atlantis cliff appears on the right), spot the major cairn made of 50 small-rocks to your right, and follow the terrace below it to the right for about 50m, looking for a cairn near the cliff edge which makes the top of the route. Rap off trees down to single-bolt above the route, and over the lip to the route itself. Bring at least a 50m rope. Rebolted 2019, resolving the "death start" issues via a variant start. |
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