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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
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Rhum Dhu | |||||
14 | Peacock Gully
Start: Nose the right of Whisky Gully. 83m
FA: P. Higgs, K. Westren, B. Cunningham & M. Montague, 1958 | 75m, 4 | |||
14 | ★★ Shandy
1
8
33m
2
8
26m
3
6
14m
4
14
26m
Walk past DRP and continue past double rap rings on arete. 20m further is an old rap station made of old green tape tied off a gum tree. 5m further is a gum tree growing beneath some think brush. Sandstone block marked 'S' with cairn on top here. Scramble up through scrub for approx 10m then head right to find the line of fixed hangers.
LOST FROM LEFT SCRAMBLE? If you're just climbing the bolted sections, here's how to get out: Follow the line of bolts left, around the cliff, through the small forest and up onto the slab (about 15 mins). Look to your left and you'll see a set of staples in the boulder. Set up a hand-line from here using the bolts- left to the small cave, then around to the opposite side of the boulder, following the line of bolts along a high traverse, over a small gap, before meeting the main cliffline and short walk up to the carpark. You will not be able to belay due to the amount of turns so be careful setting this line up, and consider ways of protecting yourself. Tie the end off at the last bolt and use the standard 2 carabiners on safety to traverse, with draws at each bolt. Note- the exit can be much more daunting for a nervous beginner than the actual climb, but is a fun experience. FA: K Western, 1958 | 99m, 4, 6 | |||
Narrow Neck Crags Northern Crag | |||||
14 M6 | Chancellorsville
Aid up crack to roof, left to ledge, left to rock and up into the choss! Start: Thin left leading seam in small roof on the left side of the 'Waterfall' cave. FA: J.Pickard & R.Reynolds, 1968 | 48m | |||
Narrow Neck Crags Main Bivouac Ledge | |||||
14 M0 R | It's More Fun Than Playing Pool
Wall, aid through overhang, slab right to chossy ledge below overhang, right and up to big ledge. Take Care! Start: 15m right of scramble route to the 100 Man Bivouac Ledge. FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977 | 21m | |||
Narrow Neck Crags 100' Slab Area | |||||
14 | ★ 100' Slab Direct Variant
Slab. Start: 6m right of 100' Slab anchor 2. FA: J.Ewbank & K.Carter, 1965 | 16m | |||
14 | ★ 100' Slab Most Direct Variant
Chickenhead and bolt, up and left. Start: 2m right again! FA: P.Butcher, A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1978 | 16m | |||
14 M2 | Rin Tin Tin
Tree to lip, aid right to bolts, free, then right to cave, wall to ledge and bollard, up to trees. 2). Right up wall. Take wires and slings. Start: 10m right of CB. (tree growing to lip of roof?). FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977 | 52m | |||
Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag | |||||
14 M3 | The Creature
1).Aid to roof,left then out to lip, onto wall, right to ledge. 2).Left, over bulges, right to blank corner, up, left at top then to scubby ledge. 'Gully' to right. Start: Ar right end of Psyncave. FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1978 | 40m | |||
14 | ★ Fuddy Duddy Direct Start
Corner formed by left side of big block. Start: 8m right of Fuddy Cracks. FA: J.Ewbank, 1973 | 30m | |||
14 | First Impressions
Thin scrubby crack, wall to bulge, to ledge near gully. 2).Traverse to weakness in overhang and up. Start: 20m right of TH. FA: P.Martland & G.Herbert, 1977 | 55m | |||
14 | ★★ Cave Climb Direct Start
| 13m | |||
Narrow Neck Crags Herbaceous Gully | |||||
14 | Open File
As for QD to piton past nose, ledge. 3).Traverse left to inset ledge below hidden corner, up, step right, up, walk off right. Start: From N anchor 1. FA: J, P.Leicester, T.Silvers & R.Walker, 1985 | 77m | |||
Castle Head/Ruined Castle Ridge | |||||
14 | ★ Ruined Castle Ridge
1
14
25m
2
14
40m
3
8
5m
4
14
15m
5
5
15m
6
14
25m
A sketchy, poorly protected, and sometimes exposed climb out which is usually done after completing the Castle Head abseil route as an alternative to walking out. Be warned though, the final pitch is very poorly protected, exposed, and consists of mostly soft crumbly rock. If you can't make it up this then you will have to abseil back down and walk out. After pitch one the route essentially follows the centre of the ridge, with some questing and abyss hopping between pitches.
| 130m, 6, 10 | |||
Diamond Falls Access Ledge | |||||
14 | Vision
This may start 25m right of Sweet And Sour at a corner that leads up to a shallow groove on the left hand side of a small wall above the track. FA: B. Cameron & N. Smith, 1994 | 15m | |||
14 | Warlock
70m to the right of Diamond Jack the track passes a large boulder in amongst the trees. Warlock starts another 10m to the right. Marked with a W and the first carrot is visible 3m above the track. FA: H. Luxford & S. Chambers, 1994 | 55m |
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