"Cleverly found" indeed. Named "Bentrovarto" in guidebooks for many decades. However, Bryden says the name was contributed by his German climbing partner on the day, and agrees that using the correct Italian spelling is apt. A grand girdle adventure that spends as much time going across as it does going up! Originally done by starting up Colosseum Corner, it is 18 this way. But ever since the FA most people have climbed the crack 3m L of CC as the first pitch, which is 20. The rest of the route is many grades easier.
The pitches are difficult to accurately and independently describe because of the way this route has been retrobolted by the other multis on the wall. The feature is very obvious and the line easy to follow so just belay where is comfortable and makes sense. The only tricky bit of route finding is at the end when you go round the corner on the left side of the main face into the gully and then across it, but as long as you remember to do that you should find the belay okay. From here it is a bit of a no gear choose your own adventure situation to the top.
20m (20) A great sustained pitch - well worth doing in it's own right to the first rap anchor. The steep thin crack eats medium wires (a triple set isn't excessive). Long thought to be a whopping sandbag at grade 18, but this was because the FA actually climbed p1 of Colosseum Corner. The FA of this pitch is unknown.
27m (8) Traverse left and slightly up along the ramp the whole way, passing the RB anchors of Guillotine, Marxism, Vespasian's Wall, miscellaneous ancient carrots, bomber trad, and at least one big loose block. Eventually, belay at Kizashi's DRBs, just before the ramp becomes an almost vertical corner.
13m (14) Steep leftwards corner/ramp to another bolt belay.
31m (-) To ledge, traverse left to nose and up to cave and old bolt belay.
16m (-) Left and around corner on ledge (crawl??) to chimney/gully. Cross the gully to ledge and single carrot and trad belay.
33m (-) Back right across gully onto right wall. Bulge to ledge, then left to tree. Basically no gear, often wet, harder then you want it to be.
13m (-) Back of horrible chimney gully and up, or more pleasantly up the right wall of gully. Also basically no gear, often wet, and harder than you want it to be.
