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접속점 |
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Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
An excellent winter venue, with all routes basking in the sun from about 8:30-9am. |
15
★★ Wild is the Wind
Start: On a flat rock at the large eucalypt at the bottom of 'Solo Gully'.
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20
Far Q 2
Start: On grassy ledge 10m right of the gully. |
25
★★★ Shock And Awe
Start: QUICK ACCESS TO P2: Climb spikes 20m left of Superbug/Firebug and then traverse left 15m to get to the start of P2. ORIGINAL ACCESS: Traverse in around ledge at the bottom of 'Solo Gully'. This is easy but a bit scarey. Can be protected with a couple of medium cams. Belay on double rings
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27
★★★ The Ass Of The Angel
Utterly absorbing climbing all the way with two tricky cruxes Start: EASY APPROACH: Off the ledge at the bottom of Firebug. Stick clip first ring and batman up to spike. Up 6m to ledge and traverse left 10m. |
20
★★ Say Cheese for High n Wild
Grey face with two bolts 6m left of Fire Bug. Double ropes or long runners useful to optimize the trad gear. |
17
★★★ Fire Bug
Blue Mountains trad multi-pitch classic (with zero bolts!). This is the major corner system just left of the steep orange buttress. Gets sun by 8:30am in winter. Original pitches are described here, but it’s better to combine pitches 1 & 2, and 3 & 4. Note that the topo above greatly foreshortens all but the first pitch.
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26
★★★ Superbug
Arete 1m right of Firebug. Up Firebug for 4m then swing right onto the face below the nose. Either stickclip super high first bolt, or place two medium cams. |
24
★ Bug Proboscis
An even more airy finish to 'Superbug'. Start: 'Superbug'. Continue 10m past the top of 'Superbug' to chains.
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20
★★ Light My Fire
Rap in to large ledge with chain. Climb up veering left to above Firebug. Follow rings to 2 alternative finishes. |
14
★★ Baby Carrots
Approach the top of Bronze Orange Bug/Bug Free, spot two carrots at ground level and scramble down 2m to U bolts. Rap from these and redirect ropes through the large stainless steel hook to maintain the arete to a semi-hanging double ring belay, well off the deck. Committing crux off the belay leads to many glue in carrots to top. Bring 12 brackets. |
27
★ Better Than Wife
Unbelievably good fun with fantastic climbing all the way. Start: Start as for 'Bug Free' at the ugly undercut arete. |
25
★★ Bronze Orange Bug
An old aid route at 12m6 now freed grade at 25. A great mountains pumper, crux near the ground then great long climb on feature bright orange rock. |
13
Passion Vine Hopper
Jan 2017: Access to Mt Boyce from Station St Blackheath: Vehicle access IS permitted by climbers to the Mt Boyce car parks 1 & 2 Access to Mt Boyce from Fairy Bower Reserve, Mt Victoria: Vehicle or walking access IS NOT permitted. Do not walk or drive on the maintenance track between Fairy Bower Reserve and the Mt Boyce climbing areas. Climbers approaching Mt Boyce from this direction are asked to walk on the footpath at the right hand side of the track which takes them down to the climbing areas. This is an existing agreement made in 2003 after discussions with the council, SRC and other interested groups. We are reminded that this agreement may change due to risks to members of the public on the maintenance track alongside the increasing number of works projects planned for the tracks. This message comes as the first of a number of upcoming works projects between 18 Jan and 9 Feb 2018, commences. Sydney Trains ask all climbers to adhere to the original agreement for access to the maintenance track. |
12
★★ Air2Spare
Rap-in climb out route. Rap anchor located in the cave about 10m right (facing out) of the top of Goldstar. Abseil 35m tending slightly left (facing cliff) clipping in to carrots on the way down. Double ring belay on a grey nose about 20m above ground. Take care not to abseil past the belay as ascent may be highly problematic and your rope probably won't reach the ground. Take medium wires, slings, large hexes, and a few medium cams. (Or just bolt plates and run it out). |
21
★★★ Vincent HRD
30m left of the 'Gully'. 15m further left on the Goldstar ledge with a belay carrot bolt. Traverse out to the line and up to the stellar diagonal hand jam crack to the chain belay on Thruxton. One of the best single pitch trad routes at Mt Boyce. |
19
★★ Thruxton
3m right of VHRD. Belay 10m left of Goldstar on the ledge. 1x carrot bolt and small gear to set up a belay. A great sustained layback corner, most people just climb the first pitch to the chain.
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14
★★ Little Johnny
Right of air 2 spare on carrots |
14
Manx
Start as for VHRD.
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14
Bonnieville
Start: First pitch as for Manx.
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18
Cow Chaser
Start as for Manx/Bonnieville then follow the carrots up the wall and over the boulder/roof at the top. Take small cams, a medium wire, and a #3 Camalot or similar for the start |
18
★★★ Gold Star
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16
★★ Gold Star Pitch 1
Jan 2017: Access to Mt Boyce from Station St Blackheath: Vehicle access IS permitted by climbers to the Mt Boyce car parks 1 & 2 Access to Mt Boyce from Fairy Bower Reserve, Mt Victoria: Vehicle or walking access IS NOT permitted. Do not walk or drive on the maintenance track between Fairy Bower Reserve and the Mt Boyce climbing areas. Climbers approaching Mt Boyce from this direction are asked to walk on the footpath at the right hand side of the track which takes them down to the climbing areas. This is an existing agreement made in 2003 after discussions with the council, SRC and other interested groups. We are reminded that this agreement may change due to risks to members of the public on the maintenance track alongside the increasing number of works projects planned for the tracks. This message comes as the first of a number of upcoming works projects between 18 Jan and 9 Feb 2018, commences. Sydney Trains ask all climbers to adhere to the original agreement for access to the maintenance track. |
20
★ Grand Slam 2008
Rings and bolts right of Goldstar |
19
★ My Mate Matey
Jan 2017: Access to Mt Boyce from Station St Blackheath: Vehicle access IS permitted by climbers to the Mt Boyce car parks 1 & 2 Access to Mt Boyce from Fairy Bower Reserve, Mt Victoria: Vehicle or walking access IS NOT permitted. Do not walk or drive on the maintenance track between Fairy Bower Reserve and the Mt Boyce climbing areas. Climbers approaching Mt Boyce from this direction are asked to walk on the footpath at the right hand side of the track which takes them down to the climbing areas. This is an existing agreement made in 2003 after discussions with the council, SRC and other interested groups. We are reminded that this agreement may change due to risks to members of the public on the maintenance track alongside the increasing number of works projects planned for the tracks. This message comes as the first of a number of upcoming works projects between 18 Jan and 9 Feb 2018, commences. Sydney Trains ask all climbers to adhere to the original agreement for access to the maintenance track. |
21
Half Life
Right hand side of the gully coming down. Start: Streno crack, overhung corner and roof to top. |
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