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접속점들 Grand Junction Wall에서

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접속점
Grand Junction Wall

USE A 60M ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope when using a 50m rope on these routes - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

Also, the logs are getting a bit wobbly: stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

This sector has been renamed from its previous name ("Golliwog Wall"), given that Golliwog Grades was added much later than Grand Junction (and carries unfortunate overtones).

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

27 Isle of the Green-Hatted Wombat

Start about 20m left of Krusty the Climb, and 20m R of Slay Ride, at a prominent red shale blob. Stick clip a staple above the vegetated undercut, traverse 8m to the right, then up to an anchor in the black rock about 5m from the top.

24 Krusty the Climb

The longest stick clip at Shipley, and the batman is quite a rope shredder too. Start 20m L of Supercal, at a gap in the handrail where it bends to a post embedded in a boulder.

The next three routes share the same start off the access log with a fork at the top.

The next three routes share the same start off the access log with a fork at the top.

26 Grand Junction

Another route that is unfairly overshadowed by its 'three star' neighbours. Up the log and first two bolts as for The Eviscerator then traverse 5m L to the lefthand line of bolts.

28 The Eviscerator

Excellent. Very thin and technical up the orange wall to a nip in the tail. Save it for a cool day. Straight up off the log.

26 Supercallousfragileextradosage

A very popular route, and one that seems to be a good introduction to the grade - probably due to the plethora of bolts at the crux. Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended, then take the righthand line of bolts off this log.

5m right. The next three routes share the same start up the 2nd access log (which is due for replace

5m right. The next three routes share the same start up the 2nd access log (which is due for replacement as at 2023 - don't solo up it).

25 Silently Flying By

Start 5m right of Supercal, up the log just to the right of the end of the railing. The crux will have you silently flying. Bye!

24 Land of Green Navels

Needs medium cams (BD #0.5-2). There's no need to touch the sandy broken flake R of the 2nd last bolt. Keep climbing through the roof (past the fixed carabiner) to chain anchor. A 60m rope works.

23 Alliterating Austrian Ostrich

Long, sustained - excellent. One of the longest routes at Shipley. Start as for SFB for a bolt then long traverse right, hard crux, then pump until oblivion with a left trend through the steepness to finish. USE A 60M+ ROPE minimum.

The next three routes share the same start up the 3rd access log which has been replaced and is now

The next three routes share the same start up the 3rd access log which has been replaced and is now in good condition.

23 Weak as I am

USE A 60M+ ROPE. One of the best routes on the whole wall - sustained but no definite crux (unlike many routes on this wall). Start about 15m R of AAO at the next log. This is the left line of the three.

23 Golliwog Grades

Up the log (stick clip recommended, as with all the log starts), then straight up. Great moves with a powerful little slab to a tricky, annoying, probably undergraded finish.

24 Displaced Persons

USE A 60M+ ROPE (tie a knot). Good long route but often dirty from runoff. Start as for WAIA, stick clip recommended.

The next two routes share the same start up the 4th access log.

The next two routes share the same start up the 4th access log.

23 Mental Mantle

Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree. After the silly runout this is one of the best 23s at Shipley.

25 Dance Like a Mother

Right hand route off the log. Mostly cruisy grade 22ish climbing - then a final sting in the tail at the end. Use a 60m rope!

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