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Bowen

Mostly bouldering. Large variety of difficulties from V0 through V11 with something for every climbers strengths and weaknesses. Hundreds of un-charted lines and boulders

Queens Bay

Queens Bay is a bay near Bowen in Far North Queensland. It has a beach called Queens Beach which is 4.5 kilometres long. It lies on the edge of the Coral Sea.

Queens Bay
Octopus Boulders

Smaller, easy access boulders. Great for a warm-up or new climbers.

Queens Bay Octopus Boulders
V0 Octopus 1

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

V0 Octopus 2

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

V3 Octopus 2 and 3/4 (sit start)

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

V0 Octopus 3

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

V1 Around Big Octopus

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

V1 Octopus Corridor Crack

Standing start on RHS of big octopus as looking at from within gap between boulders

V1 Octopus 4

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

V1 Octopus 5

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

V3 Around the Little Octopus

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

V4 Who Eats Octopus

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

V7 Mollusc Crawl

Start on car park side of Molluscing around bouldering on right hand side pull and left good sloper. climbs to the left through excellent pocket and all the way around the left to the good rail and then up to easy top out. Feet to avoid barnecles and hard residue after the start.

Queens Bay
Broken Glass Boulders

Just off Horseshoe Bay Rd and directly across from the Murray Bay Rd intersection. Walk in the path to the shelter. Just off to the right, in the park can be found the Broken Glass Boulders, the seedy habitation of crusty yobo boulderers.

Queens Bay Broken Glass Boulders
V0- Reflector

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

VB Looking Glass

There is a water tap just to the right of this climb. Tree totally in...

VB Mirror

Tree totally in...

VB- Windows

Tree totally in...

Queens Bay
Sandy Boulders

Some decent sized boulders with lots of potential. Low tide is essential to climb the boulders, and sand will get eveywhere.

Queens Bay Sandy Boulders
VB The Wiley Snail

From the 'ITWE' sit start move left up the rail and through pockets to op out.

V0 Is this Wet Enough

Sit start at big solid flake, traverse around boulder avoiding rail above and come into the one move chimney from a low angle, chimney up and out.

V0 Cocaine and Sangria

Sit start with both feet and one hand in crack, other hand on undercling. Up trending left to top out over left arete.

V0- Freshly Grated Palm-esan

Sit start right hand jug, left hand arete. Up, bridge the chimney and continue to top out up ramp.

Queens Bay
The Overhangs

Set of larger boulders and more complex lines in same area as "Octopus Boulders". Located on grassy edge of beach. Easy access and mat.

Queens Bay The Overhangs
V4 Central railways

Sit start at base of obvious rail, traverse right up rail and mantle out to finish.

V6 Concerned Susan

Start on edges in middle of face right in front of concerning stake sticking out of the ground. Traverse left along small edges to rail then finish up rail to a massive jug and cool mantle.

V4 The Cave

Sit start on pockets at the back of the cave. Traverse out of the cave then some difficult moves to get out of the cave to the lip of the boulder.

V5 Cave left variant finish

As for the cave, avoid the easy holds to the right on the lip, up to the crescent crimp then up left.

V1 Jugs

Seated start, traversing up through jugs.

V1 Time for a fish & chip lunch

Stand start.

V4 Glass Jugs

Sit start in hueco, head straight up on big undercling and good edges to finish in some slightly glassy jugs at lip.

V1 Good Kind of Crumble

Sit start in big pocket then head right and up on good holds.

V3 Salt Spray

Sit start outside the cave both hands on the left side pull then straight up through nice crimps

Coral Bay

Coral Bay is a bay near Bowen in Far North Queensland that is home to a 'clothes optional' beach called Nude Beach. It's rarely occupied and has some great problems. Accessible via boat or by foot from either Horseshoe Bay or Greys Bay.

Coral Bay
Fat Boy Boulder
V0 2

Sit start and up. Any number of variations. All fun

V6 Fat Boy Nick

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

V7 Fat Boy Steve

Start way left and traverse all the way to join "Police State".

Growler
V4 Police State

Start on the two slopers and move R to arête.

Pockets Boulder
V8 Nick's Stolen Roof

Start at the base of the roof on a big jug and out to the big jug on lip. Drop off here - though it could be linked into "Nick's Stolen Roof Top".

V4 Nick's Stolen Roof Top

Starts or continues on from where "Nick's Stolen Roof" finishes. From the jug and up. Be very careful of the rock up high.

V5 Pockets

Sit start and up via big moves to the break. Drop off from there. Does not top out. Can also be done as a stand start, see "Pockets (stand start)".

Pockets (stand start)

"Pockets" can also be done as a stand start.

Hidden Gems
V7 Dark Alley

Cool blank arête deep in amongst the boulders.

V2 Steep Wall

Steep wall with cool feature.

Growler Boulder
V0 Growler

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

Nameless Boulder
V2 Mantle

Start low and up to tricky mantle.

V2 Classic Traverse

Start at the very back of the boulder and traverse R around the boulder, with a pumpy (and sometimes a little grainy) finish.

Horseshoe Bay

Horseshoe Bay lies on the north-eastern tip of Cape Edgecumbe near Bowen in Far North Queensland. The whole cape is composed of rounded granite rocks and boulders with fantastic seaside climbing on amazing weathered granite. Horseshoe Bay is particularly picturesque and is very popular for swimming and hanging out. A nearby beach front café is a perfect place for lunch. Parking can be difficult on weekends when it is busy. Not recommended to swim during stinger season.

Horseshoe Bay
North Side

The north side of Horseshoe Bay has some impressive overhung rock formations and a great collection of problems, starting at the end of the beach and continues on to Cape Edgecumbe. Walk along the high tide mark. The rock can sometimes be a little sharp in this area.

Horseshoe Bay North Side
Beach Side

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

Horseshoe Bay North Side Beach Side
V6 Fat Girls & Beef

Start two hands on obvious rail then straight up on bad feet and small edges.

V7 King of the North

Sit start on obvious undercling (stack pads if necessary), big move to lip then mantle.

V2 King of the North (stand start)

Stand start on big jug at lip of overhang then straight up.

V9 Beefy Americano

Sit start in big groove and then make your way out of the overhang on cool groove features and then some very small holds at the lip. Looks possible but who knows.

V7 Sultans of Ming

Sit start in slopey hue then straight up.

V5 A Salty Groove

Sit start way at the back of the groove in pockets then head up and out to finish up the right hand arête.

V0 It's a Fallacy

Sit start on low boulder, stand and work over right edge to finish with slab like problem

Horseshoe Bay North Side
Warm-up Boulder

A well featured, little boulder with plenty of variations and fun problems on and surrounding it.

Horseshoe Bay North Side Warm-up Boulder
V0 4

The arête ("3") can also be done as a nice stand start and mantle.

V5 Danabus

Left of "1". Sit start, starting on a two hand pinch moving diagonally up R through problems "1" and "2". Finishing up the juggy arete with a mantle.

V2 1

A classic sit start.

V6 2

A pumpy traverse. Sit start and traversing right on a series of slopey features finishing on the obvious juggy arête on the opposite side of the boulder, the start of the problem.

V6/7 3

Starting on the same arête as "2" finishes on. This sit start problem starts low with a small chockstone for feet; pull down on with two desperate sloper sidepulls and throw for the big jug.

V2 Lotion on it's skin

Start with a double undercling and smear feet. Go straight up.

V0 Bum hug

Starting on the obvious hold. The reward for getting the 'top' is a rock feature that seems to be perfectly carved out for sitting, like a bum hug!

Horseshoe Bay North Side
Wall of Certain Death

This overhanging boulder is a high ball and you won't want to fall from the top... Descend the boulder via the slab on the west side.

Horseshoe Bay North Side Wall of Certain Death
V7 6ft Under

Start sitting below the big flake on two tiny crimps. Pull on and throw for jug.

V5 Afterlife

Start at the big jugs at the base of the little corner. Blast out to the arête and pocket and up the high wall.

V1 Appointment With Death

Starting on the upper level pull out onto the steep wall and up big jugs. A dangerous problem.

V2 Wall of Certain Death

As classic as they come. Very high and scary. Up the arête to the steep wall and out the overhang on amazing jugs to a lip crux. Bring lots of pads and be aware that if you fall off this problem you could be seriously hurt.

V2 Horny Horns

Standing start using horn and up via next horn to crumbly sslopers. Bad landing.

V1 Thug Life

Standing start

V3 Thug Life (sit start)

Sit start and up the wall. Be careful of the rock up high.

V3 Underbelly

Sit start and then traverse R staying low to finish on the RH end of the big flake.

V3 Moisture Infused

Standing start. Crimps/edge up to high under cling / pinch then continue to top out.

V4 Moisture Infused (sit start)

The sit start of "Moisture Infused". On edges and up to a pitch which turns into an underclig.

V2 An Inconvenient Struth

Standing start. Undercling up to not so good rock.

V2 An Inconvenient Struth (sit start)

Sit start and up "An Inconvenient Struth"

Horseshoe Bay North Side
Pockets Boulder

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

Horseshoe Bay North Side Pockets Boulder
V4 Penumbra

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

Horseshoe Bay North Side
Jump Boulder

Descend the boulder on the north west corner where "Chip That Won't Dip" finishes. There's a bunch of assorted problems between V0 – V4. Lots of short sit starts, traverses and eliminates. Fun!

Horseshoe Bay North Side Jump Boulder
V2 Classic Wall

Up the obvious cool features. A nice under cling mid way up.

V2 Vague Seam

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

V2 Come Out & Play

A classic arête. A high ball with bad landing. Start with fridge move, work way out right on corner and up slightly left.

V7 Pandora's Boxjump

Grab edge and jump. Up via bad slopers.

V0 2

A fun high problem.

V5 3

Sit start and desperate mantle.

V1 What can I say except you're welcome

Layback from the crack.

V0 Left Cheek

Stand start up the crack - layback. Another variant.

V3 Right Cheek

Sit start. Campus up via good holds (no feet at the start).

Plenty of other variants (V0 – V4). Lots of short sit starts, traverses and eliminates.

V0 Chip That Won't Dip

Traverse from left to right. Ending at the boulders easiest descent route.

Horseshoe Bay North Side
Bat Cave

The Bat Cave is a cave located in the northern half of Horseshoe Bay and is also known as Cave 60 for obvious reasons. It's a fantastic cave but can get a bit slimy in hot and humid weather and sometimes the holds need to be cleaned from the sea salt spray. Bird droppings can be seen in this cave.

Horseshoe Bay North Side Bat Cave
V7 Kingdra

Start on double underclings, use right crimp and left pinch to reach better holds.

Located 10m left of the roof.

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