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접속점 |
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Main Stack
The section of rock you first approach at this crag. On your right is a good beginner or warm up area. There are features such as a small stacked roof, cracks and overhangs, and has some stand-alone rock, lowballs, flakes and aretes. Some hard and tall climbs on the north side of the prominant boulder. Mind the tides. |
V0
Oceanic Traverse
Traverse the long obvious rock that dips into the ocean. Be mindful not to dip your feet in |
V1
★ Funky Chunky
Start far right, work pockets and incredible hidden undercling jug up weakness to orange patch. Nice pinch into jugs and topout |
V5
★ Triangulate
To the right of IA seated at base of slopey arete left of FC, using face and arete holds. Pocket, undercling edge, slopers and 2 ridiculous pinches to get to rail and oval pocket to top. Low small feet and heels help. Big and vertical cracks are OUT. Contrived. |
V2
★ Illicit Arete
Sit start at the base of the arete, left of slab the slab wall. There is a small pocket for right hand low on arete. Follow arete keeping feet smeared slab, avoid use of left hand face. Perfect hold halfway. Rails just left of arete on face are in for V1, out for V2. Topout at top of arete. |
V3
Pocket Rocket
Start seated on rock, work up mostly through pockets that work as edges to vertical central crack with pocket. Edge left of this is in. Top out via crack and horizontal rails. |
V3
★ Don't Dab Slab
Stand start low- two underclings. Up through pockets. Then to edge and mini sidepull. Stay left of slight arete. To prow for topout. Harder for sit start, easier if stand starting using pockets straight away (i.e. not using undercling start holds). |
V2
Magical Mystery Tour
Work from Funky Chunky's start to the far left of the Forewall. Thereby traverse all climbs here through the 2m section of the wall. Cool movements prior to the Pocket Rocket section of the climb. Top out as far left as you deem safe, ends above rocks not pads |
V0
Haul of the wall
Sit below crack, work jugs into crack, follow crack to flake-type feature and jugs and crack to top out. Exclude various features for V1 |
V3
★ Epidermis Assemblage
Work far right to far left, using mint heels and toes and open hands on top hand grating edge, to jugs and the topout as far left as possible |
V1
★ Santa's S'cr'ack
Sit in rocky hole, work left hand crack using wall features for V1, V2 for direct up crack without wall's aid |
V0
★ Chimney of the North Pole
Offwidth crack essentially with staircase within |
V2
★ Thing 1
Left hand arete of off-width |
V2
★ Thing 2
Arete right of offwidth, bit more slopey than Thing 1 |
V1
Mulitple one-move-wonders
Using the underside as a sit start, use funky holds of choosing for many renditions of a one move wonder that tickles your fancy. Fair few there to try. |
V2
Le'Crack layback
The landing is a bit sketchy, first point to warrant mentioning. Follow the hand crack from bottom left to top right. Cleaning it each time helps remove the moss. |
V3
Headless Chook
Start low at far left of obvious ominous wall. Work face and arete up to roof. Top left of roof for easier and safer finish. BEWARE GUILLOTINE ROCK BELOW! Also feel free to top right over roof if you trust it as a free-standing piece. |
V2
Awkward Turtle
Pad the hole, start on the arete into chill sidepull holds and semi jugs/pockets. Be wary of scrappy feet. Topout through flaring crack-like weakness |
V1
★ Thin and lacking skin
Use FLIP's thin crack into finger lock, top out over and through crack right of horizontal flake. Start seated by the base of the i |
V0
★ FLIP Off
Sit start on the flake surrounding the F on the Flip graffiti, work up and around and top out. |
V3
★ Leftover Sandwhich
Sit start with pocket and pinch on obvious overhang. Work to scoop, up left to diagonal rail. Gain left horn then miraculous jug rail at top. Topout with far back features or closer cracks. |
V7
Pinch and a Punch
Hard right most line of holds. Use none of the holds from LS except the 2 sit start holds and topout jug. All sharp edges (and one ultra micro). Jared Tyerman (Attempts & beta) |
V2
★ Amazing A'c'rachnid
Sit start underclining underside of major central flake (made possible by the spider who gave his home for this hold). Avoiding dabbing pointed flake behind. Follow into weakness diagonally up left, top above here. |
V3/4
★ Klingon
Arete just right of Gecko graffiti. Slopey compression after small edges. Tops after high dark pinch. Harder starting off right edges and traversing into arete. |
V3/4
★ Sheba
Same as for SD except that the right wall is IN for feet/hands. |
V6
★★ Sheba Direct
Sit at low left diagonal crack. Move up and right to dihedral finger crack opening using foot holds on face only (right opposing wall is OUT). Gain higher vertical rail and above edge. High right diagonal pinch and/or lip for topout. |
V5
★★★ Thy Holy Arete
Sir Reilly dubs upon thee: Sinner, repent for the Lord hath delivered upon your unworthy flappers Thy Holy Arete! Climb the left side of the proudest arete in all the land. |
V0
★ Tap Hollow
Use hollow jugs for fun flying up route |
V1
★ Bubble crack
Use bubbly crack to get to top |
V1
Bubble arete
Start sitting at arete's base, into bubble features to topout |
V2
★ Sitting on the fence
Start seated with pad on spikes, work into crossing holds and then jug to topout. Cool movements. |
V0
★★ Direct dyno
Work 3 obvious jugs or 2 as a dyno. Mind the spiders in the holds |
V2
★★ Insect Arete
Start seated on point of rock to wide arete to nice curved rail, minding all the while the guillotine here below as well. Pad well |
V1
★ Double crimp arete
Sit start the block into undercling to second block to stand on, use two crimps if you're ballsy rather than top of rock to top out (And don't be a Dave and get eaten by skinks haha) |
V1
Face your left
High ball, use features at left of face and go up, end is a bit scarce, just face it and topout |
V1
★ Face Front and Centre
Work holds in centre of wall, end again is slightly scarce of holds working cenral due to angles. But works, topout |
V0
★ And a face to the riii-iight
Use crack and holds left of crack for cruisy sailing to the top |
V1
★ The wanderer's crack
Use crack direct working to flared section and topout. Mind loose sounding section 3/4 of the way up. Should be solid. Use pockets right of crack with crack for V0 |
V1
Outright
Uses pockets right of Wanderer's crack and into flake to pocket and jug topout via mantle |
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