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Hazards Cliffs

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Flowstone Wall

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Flowstone Wall
16 Dance Of The Sugar Plum Fairy

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

15 Dance Of The Sugar Plum Fairy DS

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

17 Undyturd

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

22 Arocknaphobia

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

21 High Anxiety

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

17 Free Ride

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

18 Spasm In The Outback

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

18 Crystal Voyager

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

16 Prenatal Therapy

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

14 Roll Your Own

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

The Gonk

This is a remote cliff in a great spot with beautiful lines.

The Gonk
25 Monty Python's Flying Circus

The deep water solo. Climb the stunning flake on the west face of the huge boulder, at the southern end of the slabs below the Gonk.

15 Sporting Nightmare

Provides an easy, but poorly protected, climb to the top of The Gonk. Scramble up L of the long blank wall L of Dumpster, to belay below a short chimney.

  1. Climb the chimney behind the block and continue up the slab above to the scrub. Go slightly R through this to an easy crack leading to a tree belay on the saddle.

  2. Follow the crack above, then slabs up R to a DBB. Abseil off via On the Highway to Hell, double ropes required.

27 Life of Brian

On the L side of the long wall L of Dumpster, climb via a desperate boulder problem start via 5 B to DBB.

20 Dumpster

Follow 'Sealevel Traverse' until Flowstone Wall is first seen. This route is the short overhung corner.

  1. 20m. Up corner to a large ledge.

  2. 25m. Follow the flakes to other ledge. Abseil off.

24 Where In The Stain Is Snedn

Pan-dimensional hyperclassic line and location. Not bad climbing either. The arête right of Dumpster.

  1. 18m 20. Climb the arête to the foot of the corner.

  2. 25m 24. Climb the incipient corner crack on small wires using bridging, layback, steep slab and even crack climbing. When the top of the corner can be reached, step L onto the face to clip the bolt, then tend L to the ledge. A bolt lower down protects the possibility of a hazardous fall over the arête.

25 On The Highway to Hell

The direct finish to Where in the Stain is Snedn, up the amazing soaring arête.

  1. 20m 20 - As for Where in the Stain is Snedn.

  2. 30m 25 - Climb the incipient corner crack of the original, but instead of traversing off L at the second bolt, continue straight on up the flying arête via 5 more bolts, to a bolt belay where the angle eases.

  3. 30m 22 - Step L and climb the barrelling slab via 4 bolts to an easy runnel leading to a bolt belay at the clifftop. Double ropes are essential to rappel the climb.

25 The Meaning of Life

The awesome flake route right of Where in the Stain is Sneden (fully equipped, with DBB).

Project N. Hancock

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

26 The Holy Grail

Spectacular, steep and sustained. One of the finest routes of this grade and style in Tasmania. (fully equipped). Start 25m right of The Meaning and climb the left trending dyke to DBB above pitch 2 of Highway to Hell.

25 The Life of Meaning

Start as for Holly Grail and climb the thin crack to ledge and BB below The Hourglass corner.

30 The Hourglass

At the very top of The Gonk is a spell binding corner. From the top of The Gonk rappel from a double bolt belay onto a ledge which is the top of The Life of Meaning. The crux is well protected by cams and the second half of the route is sparsely protected with small wires and potentially ball nuts if you have them.

Arete Project N. Hancock

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Star Factory

Immaculate water polished orange granite, generally slightly overhanging, 30m high and 500m long wall, mostly sport routes and some trad.

Star Factory
Routes are listed R to L as you come to them via the access trail.

Routes are listed R to L as you come to them via the access trail.

20 Access Route

Climbs to the ledge where Chris the Porn King starts.

24 Chris the Porn King

Climb the Access route till the ledge. Double bolt belay. Climb the top pitch up via some cool moves on not the best quality rock. Not a bad little route. Harder if you are short.

23 Naturally Blond

Follow the crack L of Chris The Porn King to the roof. Head R to pass the roof and follow the thin layback to the double bolt belay.

28 Total Eclipse of the Heart

The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay.

26 The Reason

Climb a grade 15 crack for 8 meters to gain the big ledge. A wicked striking corner. Classic. Maybe the best 26 at the factory.

21 #Hikin Bikin

Start up the initial corner of The Reason, step right on ledge, then steep and pumpy shallow corner to a rooflet then series of tricky side pulls to an anchor at half height.

25 Pot Bellied Whale

Layback the pillar. Up the arête. Not that good.

28 Soft Option

Same start as Street Fighter. Head R at the top of the chimney.

28 Street Fighter

Grovel up the chimney until you can get out onto the L face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic.

32 Street Fighter 3

Direct Start into Street Fighter. V10 if your 6 and a half feet tall. Harder if shorter.

29 Street Fighter 2

Climb the first 3 bolts of Antimatter then break R and up to join Street Fighter. A bit sharp, and just adds a little bit. Probably grade 26 to join Street Fighter.

23 Antimatter

A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. Then suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. For those whom it's not a warm up it could be 24.

25 Matter of Fact

For when you get bored of Antimatter. At the roof of Antimatter head L past 1 bolt via some moves.

27 Decafe

Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit.

28 Power of the Percolator

This could be the best 28 in Tassie. A must do!

29 Grand Slam

Start as for Power of the Percolator but head L. Lowers off the 2nd last bolt and needs to be extended.

22 Juicebox

The obvious corner to the Right of Kim's Project. Up past two bolts into the corner. Up this to the lower-off for Kim's Project. Gear from tips to #1 Camalot.

Project - Kim

Up the slab. Looks classic. All Kim has to do is get out of his office and climb it. Hopefully the bolts are ok!

24 Promised Land

Climb Balance of Evil and break R across to join Kim's project. A bit cheeky but a good route.

25 Balance of Evil

A bit tricky down low. Up the R facing corner to the top.

Project RS

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

30/31 Tekken Direct Finish

Exiting the corner of Tekken to join Balance of Evil via. a two move V9 boulder problem.

Closed Project atmo.

27 Tekken

The awesome shallow corner to the right of the obvious choss ramp. Up this via. some very technical moves a bit uncharacteristic of the factory. Lower off the last bolt (with ring) in the corner for the 27. Exiting onto the slab is guarded by a hard boulder problem of around V8/V9 and is still a closed project. Finish up Balance of evil. A #2 camalot can be used before the first bolt but is not essential.

Writing up as is because the only other sport climb around this grade at the factory is Street Fighter so this is a welcome addition.

27 The Grand Adjudicator

10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.

22 The Glass Tier

Follow a series of left trending flakes just past a ridiculously thin crack-line. Most of the rock on this climb looks dubious from the ground, but in fact it is pristine quality except for the first move. The upper section is reasonably sustained.

Project - Garry 3

Closed

Project - Wizard Of The World

Closed

32 Wizard Of Oz

Climb up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming to reach the jug out L. Traverse R on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funky moves. One hell of a good route.

27 Ferret On A Leash

Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean.

Project

Line left of Ferret on a Leash

32 The Tooth Fairy

Named after the route stole the Kim’s front teeth while he was bolting it. Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A good one.

31 Fairy Floss

Climb the Tooth Fairy until the big hanging flake at half hight and then break out L past a bit of a kung fu pinch move. Powerful crux section.

Project - Business Man

One sick project, closed.

29 Entree

Head up easy ground to half height. Head R and up past a rad punch to the biggest under cling in Tassie. Squirm up the groove to reach the belay. Super classic.

30 Come Get Me

Same start as Entrée but go direct. When the route steepens, the hard climbing begins! (skip dogging bolts on redpoint). To some jugs. Then go and get it. A very nice and sharp hold. Head out L to reach the chains. Come Get Me!

27 The Supposed Golden Path

The far LH side of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête, with a tricky finish.

27 Star Wars

This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic moves downwards and left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far every one has gone L on the bigger holds. The best 27 the Factory has to offer.

19 Fusion

The sharp arête right of Maxwell's Demon. Start bridging on slab and wall, then up slighty right of arête. Crimpy.

28 Maxwell's Demon

Up, traverse R via mono(!), up. Stand on top to finish. Preclip the 2nd bolt if you like your ankles as they are.

30 Astro Boy

Water polished granite. Climb Me. This gem of a climb is a must for people who like climbing good routes. A hard boulder to get to the 4th draw will keep the masses away, and the mantel at the top will keep the boulderers crying. Good conditions help.

29 Back Yard Surgery

The line 4m L of Astro Boy. V6 start, then awesome climbing.

28 Simply The Best

The name says it all! Just enjoy - if you can get in the groove of the style. A little cruxy at one point, but once the flared hand jam is reached the fun heats up.

27/28 Nemesis

Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris.

Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2.

Project - Garry 2

U's heading up and right from Simply the Best overlap. Closed.

Project - Madness

Garry's project heading up and left from Simply the Best overlap. Closed.

29 Hubris

Start up Augmentium and at the higher of the two traversing cracks bust out right via some committing moves.

Traverse R climbing past Simply The Best. Clipping the bolts on that route is a serious no-no. Continue to the flaring corner for the crux. Continue up the crack to the top.

You need at least a #4 cam for the bottom offwidth. The rest of the route takes all sorts of gear. Double rack from green alien to #2 camalots with a bunch of slings or just use two ropes.

29/30 Augmentium

The obvious crack splitting the wall 5m left of Simply the Best.

Probably the best trad climb in Tasmania.

Project - Redline

Closed

21 The Adjuster

The well-defined R facing corner system toward the lower end of the tier. Perfect rock. Perfect position. 1. 18m 13. Climb the corner to the ledge under the roof. 2.18m 21. Up to the roof then follow an airy traverse R until the roof fades into a faint depression. Tricky moves to the top.

25 Turbo Hammer

Named after the one and only. Looks easy but! Climb up the radtastic left leaning flared crack, on some smears and a few more smears. Very good.

25 The Final Solution

Faceted blocky arête to same belay as Seal Launch.

22 Seal Launch

Climb a dogleg groove just R of a distinct arête formation.

23 Minor Technicality

The arête and RH Face left of seal launch, delicate technical climbing mostly on the face past 3 FH lead to jugs past another FH to a DBB.

24 Cheese Supreme

Start just L of Technicality. Reachy moves in the thin seam to get off the ground lead to some big moves off big holds on immaculate rock. 5 bolts + lower-off. (This route goes straight up thin seam around the corner from Technicality, lower-off is off a small ledge at about the same height as Technicality).

The following routes are on the flat slightly slabby face characterised by large (often loose) cryst

The following routes are on the flat slightly slabby face characterised by large (often loose) crystals, the rock quallity is not perfect but the unique large crystals make for interesting climbing.

22 The Great Gonzo

Next route R of Holy Ghost. Up steep wall on good holds with tricky moves gaining slab. Up on big crystals to the top. 10 bolts + lower-off.

24 The Holy Ghost

The RH line of bolts with a reachy crux high up.

21 The Son

The central line of bolts with a tricky slab finish.

22 The Father

Follow the LH line of bolts on the highly featured wall at the far LH end of the cliff.

The Men's Gallery

The Men's Gallery is a little separate from the main Star Factory crag. To get to the Men's Gallery walk down the ramp at the far Lside of the Star Factory to a rap station. From here climb the short wall above via 4 bolts (grade 12) to the belay on the ledge (directly below Doug's Power Climb). To descend rap off the rings, but try to avoid letting the ropes fall down the crack below!

26 Red Hill Town

The furthest line R on this bit of the wall. Power up steep wall (crux) to good rest. Continue easily, with tricky move at half height. 9 U-bolts + lower-offs. Best done with the first two bolts pre-clipped.

Project - Garry 1

Middle line of bolts between Red Hill Town and Wild Winds. Closed.

27 Wild Winds

Starts 2m R of the belay on the Men's Gallery ledge. Up face and corner system via some unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance route.

26 Doug's Power Climb

Starts 4m left of Wild Winds. Up on good holds to hard boulder problem, then easily to the top. Excellent climbing.

About 6m left of the normal belay is a DBB (FHs) on the sloping ledge.

About 6m left of the normal belay is a DBB (FHs) on the sloping ledge.

Project - Will

Closed

Project - Alex

Closed

Hazards Main Wall (Low Starting Point)

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Hazards Main Wall (Low Starting Point)
9 Pooch Slab

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

19 Pneisses (Direct Start)

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

16 Pneisses

A slabby day out. Easy to follow. Bring some smaller wires and cams .1 to 3 BD.

Start 20m L of Japhlion, 8m to the left of a right facing corner and arete.

  1. 45m (15) Up the crack for about 10m until confident enough to move right onto the slab, then head boldly towards the top RH corner of slab. Drop off the edge of slab into the gully and go up to the second tree belay.

  2. 40m (14) Thrash through tree and step out right onto slab. Head up and right but staying away from the vegetation. Belay in the gully on the Left.

  3. 35m (16) Solo diagonally out left and up to a hollow sounding flake. Continue soloing directly up the weakness towards the small shrub in the steeper slab. Continue up easy slab above to a bush belay in the left hand gully.

  4. 45m (14) Up the slab trending slightly left, to a wire belay just below the steeper headwall.

  5. 30m (16) Up the right leaning crack below the headwall. Pull around this and onto the slab above and belay on large ledge with a trees.

  6. 45m (16) Step across a gutter onto the wall behind (don't fall) and follow the slab above to the top.

16 Japhlion
  1. 50m (16) Follow flakes for 20 m then step left and run it out to a pocket full of quartz crystals, then continue to belay near a small tree.

  2. 45m (16) Step left off ledge. Straight up the slab past the overlap. Belay in zen-like cavey scoop on the slab.

  3. 55m (15) Exciting climbing up the slab to an overlap (gear), then follow the gully/crack on the right (staying to its left) to belay in the gully about 15m below the steep corner.

  4. 45m (16) Up to the steep corner (vertical rock? wha-a-at!?) and climb it to a chimney. Get back into slab mode and follow thin crack, tending right to a belay.

  5. 50m (8) Up easy slabs to the top.

Rack - Wires and cams up to BD#4. Small cams (C3s etc) are very useful. Protection could be considered sparse for leaders not confident at the grade.

19 Griphon

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

{수} {대상들}에서 {별}-{끝} 보이기

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