접속점들 Girraween에서

Coarse granite slab and face climbing.

Note almost all the sport climbing is on Carrot Bolts. Bring bolt plates.

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

Great cracks in between grippy slabs

Climb to high BR then straight up with increasing difficulty past another 2 BRs to a bolted belay. Tricky slab climbing separated by rests in the scoops.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Take big gear for the top. Longer than it looks from the ground. The corner crack starting behind the large boulder, up the left side of the giant flake facing the First Pyramid.

From the second pyramid it is possible to down solo back into the gully. This is considered the 'normal' descent by locals.

Up the rounded arete about 15m L of Scimitar. 3 Carrots to tree belay.

Start: Base of big obvious leftward leaning crack.

A soaring and beautiful looking curved crack. Described as one of the best routes in the State. The start is unmistakable - the immodest, arching crackline.

1. 35m (21) The line spears leftwards up to a semi-detached flake.

2. 35m (18) Glide leftwards again on excellent stone. Before the crack expires, head straight up slab to the top.

10m right of Scimitar.

1. Step off block to high FH, up water runnel/shallow pockets to second and third FH. Trad belay.

2. Continue up crack and flakes. Walk off.

Up the slab left of Roarke’s Rift past a couple of bolts, moving right to gain the crack

A great classic! The definite shallow corner/flake system around right from Scimitar. I would say it's closer to 75m if starting from ground level.

1. (crux) Up slab, into corner, which is followed to a small ledge.

2. Up, then left a few metres into grass, up flakes to finish. [Note: a better way to do the second pitch is to follow the corner system all the way to the top]

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Don't let the crack suck you in except for placing good protection because there are plenty of good holds either side. Continue past ledge and straight up and over. Scramble down from the back or down climb to to first ledge and rap off obvious horn.

This route is the first obvious arching overhang route. To access you need to squeeze under a boulder and are met with a wide crack that turns into a traverse. Belay from the end of the traverse and an easy walk down.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

This is the second obvious arching crack that encases Charlott's web. The start can be identified by a large offwidth with an eagle skeleton stuck about 10m high in the crack. Follow up the offwidth section before traversing your way to freedom. Descend left from the belay on easy terrain to meet the same decent as Charlott's web.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

This is the second major area of rock you encounter of the left hand side of the trail when walking the castle rock trail. Signpost indicating "Castle Rock 50m" will let you know you arrived.

From the camping area follow the old Castle Rock track for 100m then a vague track to the left for about 400m up the hill and under the main boulder. Keep going left through a narrow gap and the route is on the left wall. Sustained.

Start on the left wall. Bridge the gap up to the first bolt and pull onto the wall. Head up to a second bolt and then left and up to a third. Easier climbing leads to the top.

Nice.

Start: Start on the right wall.

Located 20m on the left side of the Castle Rock trail just after you crest a ridge approx 500m from the information centre after the first set of continuous stone steps. Establish yourself with some difficulty in the rough hand crack and up to a rest in the off-width at half height. Continue up to top out then down-climb easy short chimney at rear.

Belaying from the top of this route is not recommended unless you have several very large cams to protect the top of the crack. If seconding this ideally have belay downclimb rear chimney after their ascent and belay from the floor behind the boulder.

Located on the R side of the track on the walk up.

From where the track hits the rock, head around to the right for about 80 metres to the first orange streak.

Up into the scoop and then up the streak to the top via a bolt (bracket needed).

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

At the next orange streak about six metres right of Dribbly Drop head straight up via a bolt at half height. Most of these old routes need brackets for the bolts, so always have some with you. FA Scott Camps (Solo)

About thirty metres right of Imagine is a third streak. Start about ten metres further right at a small, shallow corner.

1. 15m Up the corner for five metres then left onto the slab to belay on the ledge.

2. 23m Up to pocket (SLCD) and then up slab to the top.

Starts at the third orange streak around from Dribbly Drop. Pull onto a bolt on the block on the left. Up past this to a second bolt in a slight bulge before heading left a bit into the scoop. Step back right to a third bolt and continue to the top passing a fourth bolt along the way.

Starts about ten metres around from That Gigantic Pygmy Possum Fossil at the base of a boulder. Traverse out right under the bulge and then up to a bolt. Head further rightward and up into the scoop before coming back left to jugs and a bolt. Carefully up wall to the top

About five metres right of German Quality is a short overhanging crack. Up the crack past a small tree to finish up a small chute at the top.

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

Now follow the track to the summit of Turtle Rock. When the track along the slab narrows to become a track through trees you should be able to locate a small, undercut crack on the right…

Up.

From Micro Epic walk straight down the slab for thirty metres to drop down onto a boulder. From this boulder climb down the tree (!) on the right to the short crack. A tad contrived…

Up the crack and then right for one metre (but don’t bridge the gully…) then up the continuation to the top. Allen Hansen and Shane Chemello Dec 1983

from castle rock camping ground head to the right up hill and under huge boulder. Go right through the cave, turn right and walk 10m, the huge blank boulder in front of you, on the opposite face is a series of nasty looking crimpers. Bring spotters and crash mats, difficult highball with lots of commiting moves on tiny holds. Note LACK OF FOOTPIECES

Two rusty BR's.

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

On the northern end of the first big boulder of the Sphinx Rock group encountered from the campsite track. Free the move or stick clip the bolt to avoid the undercut start and aid up. Once you get the digits established on the rock climb up leftwards to another bolt. Then rightwards and up to the top via a sling runner. SLCD’s for the belay. Rap station descent.

A classic, steep and sustained arête. Starts on the southeastern side of the same boulder as Winter Daydreams, near to the other major boulders of the group. Up the arête past three bolts to a huge spike near the summit. Up to the rap station.

The next nine routes are on the long and narrow boulder behind the Sphinx proper.

The first route on the left hand end of the boulder. Don’t fall off, there isn’t any gear… Bridge onto the wall then up until a few moves right are necessary to gain a small ledge just below the top. Nut and SLCD belay. FA: Scott Camps (Solo) April 1986

Not well protected either. Start in the middle of the wall as per Snow White. Head diagonally left to a shallow runner slot, before continuing left on jugs until it is possible to move up and right to finish.

Exciting. Start in the middle of the wall below the bolt. Pull onto the wall and head up past the bolt with a move to the right near the top to reach a large spike.

Well protected. One metre to the right of Snow White step off the block and move up to a bolt. Move out right passing two more bolts before a sharp move left leads up a shallow corner on jugs.

Stickclip. Boulder start and up to flake (optional wire/cam), then continue up. SLCD belay or from pitons off to side.

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

Steep and strenuous, overhanging about two metres over ten. Starts on the opposite side of the causeway about twenty metres right of Vagabond. From the bolt step left over the void and head steeply up past a second bolt and slinging a spike. Step left and up the water streak to finish.

From Vakula The Smith, scramble around to eastern side of the opposite boulder. To the left of the chimney is an arête.

Up with difficulty to the huge jug on the arête and then continue up the slab to the top.

Up the obvious chimney (to the left of Alex in Wonderland) to the rap station.

Three metres right of the chimney is a magnificent, sharp arête. Up the flake to the first of three bolts. Belay and rap bolts at the top.

Four metres right of Alex In Wonderland head up to a bolt via a hollow sounding flake and then on to a small ledge on the right. Left and up past two more bolts. SLCD belay. Rap as for Alex In Wonderland.

Fantastic clean overhanging splitter crack found down gully from Space and Energy block. Hands to offwidth. Toprope, trad lead or boulder problem, it's up to you.

On arrival at sphinx rock go to northern side walking under a massive boulder and turn to face sphinx rock.

Stand start on jug right side of boulder. Make your way along to the end of the rail, heel hook and throw to jug, mantle rail, jugs to top out.

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

Follow the track another 300 metres or so past Sphinx Rock (i.e. 3.8km from campsite).

Start at the obvious detached flake behind the Turtle Rock sign where the track first meets the rock. From the top of the flake follow the slab to the top without any gear. FA Solo

Ten metres left of the previous route move up the slab and trend right to a bolt. Past this then to the top. Double bolt belay on the left.

Starts just left of Winter Winds. Straight up to a bolt at about 12 metres and onwards. Double bolt belay and rap.

Three metres left of Mazeppa is a bulge. Pass this and continue past two bolts. As the wall steepens to a third bolt, crank to a double bolt belay on the right.

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

Left of the large slab wall area at the end of the track there is a second large wall with an obvious finger crack line splitting the wall and trending left. Lower down it has an overlapping arete formed by the right side of the crack line's rock. This is right in front of the large tree growing there.

Follow the finger crack through the crux section lower down to gain the slabby headwall, some balancy nut placements higher up but on fairly easy ground give an exciting finish.

Plenty of size 2-5 nuts and a few slightly larger cams leave you very well protected throughout.

plenty of far back rock a the top to allow for a multi point anchor.

The next nine routes are in the tourist gully about twenty five metres left of the above route.

Start from the block next to the small arête to the left of the track as it turns right to the summit. Up the arête past two bolts. Tree belay well back.

Two metres left of Mozartiana up flake to bolt. Move right then diagonally left to the top. Take the RP’s.

Follow the thin crack three metres left of The Tempest past two bolts to a tree belay (well back).

At the start of a long and narrow gully about 12 metres left of Tintogale, behind a tree. Up the wall past a bolt to tree belay.

The slab right of Trev's Arete, below the tourist gully. A tree is infront of the route. Up slab past 3 BR's.

The right-hand arete of the Charapace wall. Start from the high boulder, clipping the carrot before you pull on. Follow the enjoyable and surprisingly well bolted (relatively) arete. Good beginner's lead.

Don’t bother with the rack and don’t fall off now, ya hear? Boulder the start two metres right of Charapace and head straight up.

About 40 meters down from gully from Staircase, clip the bolt, step off the boulder and head up to the second bolt. Left and up to a third bolt and easily to the top. SLCD belay.

Follow track to Turtle rock, as you walk past first face you come to notice large obvious crack, unbolted, first accents? could use trad or set up toprope. Difficult finger crack start that gets easier as you go up before easy top out.

No runners. The next line of holds is three metres left of I’m A Fraggile. Don’t bust an ankle bouldering the start, then straight up and right to finish. Geoff Weigand (Solo) Sept 1984

Follow the wide crack three metres left of Quick Quiz to the tree. Rob Staszewski early 1980s’

Pull onto the high foothold about eight metres left of Quick Quiz, and continue up to join Wading Ape at the first bolt. Scott Camps (Solo) April 1986

Now follow the track to the summit. Rap 30 metres down the southern side to a double bolt belay on a sloping ledge (or climb Wading Ape Direct Start to the same ledge…) to access the next four routes.

A bit of a mid grade classic. From the belay traverse three metres right to the short, shallow corner (bolt). Step right and climb straight up to the second bolt. Step left and head up past a nob (Evan’s Envy) to a third bolt. Up and a bit right to finish.

Paul Grey, Mike Groom, David Groom and Phillip Waters June 1984

Straight up from the bolt belay to a bolt. Then continue up to flake and piton. Up to a second bolt in the bulge, and then easily to tree belay. Scott Camps and Dick Henderson April 1986

Left from the belay and up to a bolt at 15 metres. Thin past this then up to a second bolt. Up with another move left at the bulge to a third bolt then up to finish. Scott Camps and Stuart Camps Jan 1986

Go left and up from the belay to traverse four metres left along small foot ledges to a short flake. Up, moving slightly right to a bolt. Push it out diagonally left to a second bolt and then up and left again to a third bolt. Steeply through the bulge to finish. Scott Camps and John Pearson April 1986

The next three routes are also accessed from the summit. Walk down a northwestfacing gully to a large, sloping platform.

The strenuous layback corner on the right hand side. Rob Staszewski and Shane Chemello early 1980’s

Short route up L of New Paths. On the left hand wall opposite the layback corner, two metres right of old gum. Up and right to bolt, then steeply to a second. Up and left, then back right to finish at tree belay. Dick Henderson and Scott Camps April 1986

Near the edge of the slab (two metres right of Summerbreeze) pull onto the wall just left of the shallow groove to a jug/plate. Sling this and up to a bolt. Left and up to step back right at the top of the groove to a second bolt. A reachy move right leads to a jug and sling. Back left and up to tree belay (well back).

Dick Henderson and Scott Camps April 1986

Now back to ground level…

Steep and sustained. This is the steep wall down from Millions Of Dead Punks. About 55 metres around the corner from Wading Ape Direct Start from a low platform on the right. Up thin moves past two bolts. Left and up steeply through the middle of the wall past two more bolts to a marginal rest at the fifth bolt. Left and up intermittent cracks in the bulge (natural pro) to the sixth bolt. Steeply up to the seventh bolt and then an exciting finish up a slab to the top. Tree belay well back.

Scott Camps and John Pearson May 1986

Walk under the boulder opposite New Paths and climb up a short wall to the base of a west-facing, overhanging wall. Use cairn to start. Pull onto the wall and go past first bolt, dyno to jug and second bolt. Up steeply past two more bolts to finish to the right to top.

Scott Camps and Dick Henderson May 1986

Three BR then a long run out to a BR anchor. Walk off.

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

This is the offwidth crack in the southern section of Turtle rock. The cliff face is facing north. It is detached from all other climbing sections. The crack starts at flaring hand jams , passes through a small lip, and opens into an off width. Crux is getting through the lip. Top out and easily walk up a Three bits of vegetation remains in the crack. Belay from an excellent gum tree.

First ascents unknown. Reestablished by Dave Os and Jacinda

The area immediately south of Turtle rock. It is a complicated area of huge boulders.

From Voyevoda walk past the un-named 16 layback crack for 40 metres, drop down to the left for 20 metres, and then continue for another 15 metres until a steep slab is found on the right. (Confused??? ☺)

A hard slab. Up corner on the right for a few moves. Follow flake out left and up to bolt and hard moves. Follow good holds till they fade, then traverse right till the angle eases after five metres or so. Climb straight up carefully to the top.

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan