등정들 South Face에서

A rather chilly day in Queensland on the south face. Took about 3 hours. Went to the top then down tourist track. Rock architecture in the overhangs is amazing

Lovely day out on the mountain, nice movement, choice views and a surprise shower made for a cracking adventure.

Great climb on some decent rock. Pitches 3/4 and 5/6 can easily be linked. The last pitch was a bit hard to find but was a nice finish to the day. Took 6.5hrs with minimal faffing about. Highly recommend!

Great fun. Linked pitches 2&3, 4&5, 6&7. Used 70m rope to link.

This was an absolutely fantastic day out! With the description of a beginner trad multi from some of the comments figured this would be a great progression on from Traction Action and a good way to push some trad grades. the route was a real calf burner and was engaging the entire way (especialy after some lost form during covid). The bolts where nicely placed for when you really wanted to clip something where protection was sparse though far enough apart to keep you on your toes looking for gear. Took longer then expected for us and was glad we didn't do it as a group of three. Would recommend at least a 70m rope for a retreat as with our 60 we would often have the half way point pass up through the belay by at least a few meters. Also i think we only placed 2 hexes on the whole route and personally would rather take an additional #1 and #2 in their place for protecting the final pitch. Anyone that is climbing at the grade I would watch the factor 2 fall off the belay of the last pitch as they are quite thought provoking moves before coming up to some bommer gear in the crack (the colourful language on the gopro footage would indicate that i was a bit nervous on the final pitch lead). Was really stoked on the climb and will happily head out again for another run on this one.

Great adventure style line, big thanks to the guys that bolted it. Broke off a few holds at the crux below the horizontal hand jam section, one nearly hitting Hilary at the belay. Overall, rock quality is good, and sometimes better than it looks!

Led 1-3, 7, 10

Finished the last pitch just before sunset. It was a little bit of a race against the light by the end of it. Walked off down the tourist route in the twilight, pitch black by the time we hit the picnic area.

My second time on the route, first time leading any of the pitches. The fading light gave me a kick up the bum to get going on the last pitch which was an awesome lead. Right in my discomfort-zone.

The whole route is a great introduction into leading trad. It is sensibly bolted for those looking for a bit more confidence on bigger moves, but sparse enough when things are cruisey for you to be able to focus on looking for placements.

The Martian makes for a great day out! The last 2 pitches are certainly the most fun, but the others are so relaxed that they’re enjoyable in their own right.

Andre did a great job, taking the lead for his first ever mixed multi, and only his second mixed lead. Great placements!

We went at a very leisurely pace, and copped some rain on the descent. Doesn’t take much water to turn the slab to glass!

Gear

The recommended rack is perfectly adequate for a safe day out. If you really wanted to double up on something, you could get another 3 (DMM) in.

If you’re comfortable at the grades, you can essentially leave the whole rack on the second for the first 8 pitches. I think Andre only placed wires and DMM 1 & 2 during these pitches.

Good times switching leads and simal climbing. a few cams and nuts handy and slings. Pay attention around P6 not to get lost by trending Left not straight or up right.

Wearing bouldering shoes on a 300m slab route is not recommended. Jill did an amazing job of getting herself and baby up and down this route. Pretty big day out. P9 was the most enjoyable for me.

Fun day out. We did the left variant for pitches 3-5 mentioned in a previous comment, which definitely added variety (and a very cool flake). Pitches 9 and 10 had the most interesting climbing, but the scramble down the tourist track might have been the hardest part of the climb led odds, Chris led evens.

Managed to turn this fun scramble into a decent adventure

We opted for a classic alpine start, beginning with 0930 coffees in Brisbane. Pulled onto the route after midday joking about not having head torches...

We climbed on twin 50m ropes, which came up painfully short of being able to link pitches nicely. Managed to link 2-3 and 4-5 with a bit of simul climbing. Twin 60's would have been ideal for linking pitches on lead and rap.

Very sporty for a mixed route in this part of the world. Bolts provided adequate pro, just supplemented a few pitches with the odd nut or hex and slung a few trees. Really impressed with the rock quality and variety through pitches 1-5 especially.

Final pitch took cams, nuts and hex's, much more so than the rest of the route. Fun, 3D finish up the final overhangs.

A stuck rope during the rap turned into a pleasant two pitch rope solo session in the dying light and a walk out in the dark.

Rpt. Got the other pitches plus the crux this time.

Changed tact this trip, took nuts plus a single rack for the last pitch and climbed on a 70, linking 2-3, 4-5, 6-7 easily. Walked off down the nicely polished N face slippery dip.

Not as adventurous or continuous as I was expecting but fun nonetheless.

Linked 2/3/4 and the chimney pitch. The steep move off the belay on P7 was cool. In general we stayed mostly out of the gullies in favour of the clean rock. Not loads of gear but rock quality was good enough that it is never a worry. Finished up via shell rock.

FFA. Big long easy pitches on good rock, what's not to like?

Eating is cheating and we should all strive to climb in the purest possible style.

“Reptiles are just retarded birds,” said the King of the Birds, “and so I am your King, thank you very much.”

A fun day on the side of a hill that ended up having very little to do with the hill, and much to do with the quality (and patience) of the company I got to share it with.

Approach: We came off The Martian as advertised, mid pitch 8, which was significantly higher and steeper than the hands free rising vegetated traverse that started at about the pitch 7 belay. Would recommend future ascensionists deviate from that route there instead.

I then led Reneé on a merry venture up and down several pitches of soloing, at alternating times slabby, steep and abrasively vegetated. All the while Ryan napped patiently at the base of the actual route. Some time later after a tour of Beerwah's SW saddle we pulled on to Divine Comedy proper.

The Route:

P1 – A bit crumbly but it’s all there. Bolts and a Jesus nut right where you want it. Not a giveaway at 18.

P2 – The cruxy corner crack. The crack was wet where it mattered, which made the 3 distinct crux sections quite... cruxy... to free. Wet and silty as it was, the fingerlocks were bomber and it did force some (committing) but great crack movement. Huge props to Ryan who onsighted the pitch to within 2 foot of the anchor before going for a ride stepping back in from the arête, taking a small garden with him. Could be hard Frog 22 if dry and clean, but I don’t see that ever happening given the location. Reneé managed to second it clean front on jambing up the filthy flared pods in the top third, it’s unclear how normal humans should best approach it.

P3 – Cool traverse under roof, bolt ladder will go free if someone can be bothered to dry off properly after the wet first half of the pitch and brush the inevitable silt off everything on the arête.

P4 – Crack above roof that you can see from The Martian. Short, protectable crack that makes you work harder than you feel you should have to for vertical thin hands.

To the top, follow hangers and line of most solid-ish rock. Climbing bits of this in the evening gloom definitely added to the ambiance.

Topped out to a sunset and the summit and descent to ourselves, delightful.

Climbing this in late November was a mistake. The entire route cops full sun, all day. We got thoroughly cooked and dehydrated.

Climbing was reasonably good, except pitch 3 and 4 which was low angle and scrubby but par for the course on S Beerwah.

Started at 10am. Topped out a 11pm.

Great day out! Lots of runouts, although there's always a bolt or gear where you need it. Potential for a bad fall off the belay on the last pitch, although the climbing is not hard for the grade. Linked pitches 2-3, 4-5 and 6-7 with a 70m rope.