접속점들 Wildebeest에서

A major cliffline south of Deep Creek... offering expansive views, sunny cliffs, and water in the creek (Winter-spring). The climbing is interesting and varied... Although some of the rock is soft and sandy, there are quality walls, features and moves to be found. WINTER: Most cliffs (except a few South facing walls) are in the sun all day. SUMMER: Probably best to avoid, but there are a number of cliffs that start seeing the shade from 11am.

A much easier to access cliff. Most of the climbs are on South faces that have shade nearly all day in summer. The climbs tend to be on the side walls of East facing blocks and follow cracks between the strata, most of which are right leaning.

This is the first cliff you reach heading uphill from the creek. It has a number of right leaning lines and two prominent chimney lines. Descend at the left hand side down a steep and fairly unstable hillside. Some abseil anchors would be preferable.

At the LH end of the cliff a R leaning crack/chimney line. Committing pull up into line then up more easily. A BD#3 in a shallow pocket to the L of the line protects the start.

3m R of Republicans two wide cracks start 5m up. Up and L past small orange triangle to foot of cracks. Up these exiting L to finish up narrow buttress between chimneys.

Up the RH branch of the main central chimney.

1m R of RHTC. Up into R leading line, pleasant balancy climbing up this.

5m R of Tories is a wall leading to some deep wide cracks. Pull up onto small ledge, up past 2 FH to deep R leaning crack, up this. Good climbing and protection.

The short chimney towards the RH end of the face, just R of Whippet. Exit L towards top and pull up onto easier ground.

About 50m uphill from Conservative Crag is a small steep orange wall. It has a distinctive white quartz streak towards its LH side. Up blocky groove L of this streak to ledge. Step R onto face and up to below the large protruding block below the overhangs. Exit L. Care needed with rock and protection.

Uphill and L from Conservative Crag about 80m are some more South facing blocks. The LH of the bigger blocks has an obvious deep wide R leading crack towards its LH side. This crack is Suez Crisis. Descent is possible at both ends.

The LH arête of the Suez Crisis block, the route struggles to stay out of the dead tree and is hard to protect.

Uphill and L from Conservative Crag about 80m are some more South facing blocks. The LH of the bigger blocks has an obvious deep wide R leading crack towards its LH side. Hard entry to crack then up to summit block, traverse L beneath this and up short chimney crack.

Face climbing on good rock. 5m R of Suez Crisis is a R leading orange seam. Start up the seam, move L onto a ledge. Up face past 3 FH. Up R of third FH to finish up R leading crack. Easily L and through break to top. Take medium cams for the climbing above and below the bolted section.

Start as for Mithridates. Up, then step R to follow the right wall of the seam to the steeper headwall, up this on fragile jugs finishing up L.

Start at the arête R of Seamless. Up L of the arête, step L at a ledge to the thin juggy cracks, up these then L up arête to finish through break.

Start just R of Disraeli. The crack around the R arête, bridging into the chimney, to ledge. Climb easy corner moving onto the L face to avoid the massive loose looking blocks. Finish up easy break in overhangs.

The next block R of the Suez Crisis block. Start up L arête just R of wide crack/gully separating the two blocks. Up to and up juggy flake to easy angled section, finish up short wide crack to summit. Descend down the North side of the block, possibly roped up.

Just R Bon Mot of is an intermittent R leading crack which is steeper and much better than it looks. Up the crack, good steep moves with some amazing holds and excellent protection [cams to BD4]

Uphill behind the Suez Crisis blocks is a large South facing cliff with two big chimneys lines. Descent is down through the chimney/chasm at the right hand end.

Uphill and behind the Suez Crisis block is a larger cliff, also facing south. At the L had end of this cliff are 2 right leaning crack lines. Up the RH line.

About 30m R of Right Crack is a deep chimney [the R hand of 2 chimneys on this cliff]. Climb the overhung stepped corner on the L side of this chimney.

From behind the Pickett’s Charge block head uphill and L 80m to a pinnacle with a L curving crack. Up the steep juggy crack exiting L.

The 3 main tiers are the main attraction, and are stacked on top of each other; with convenient ramps linking the 3. The first tier is slabby, the 2nd orange and overhanging, and the 3rd is vertical, with some nice corners and sandy aretes.

The following climbs are on the lower tier - where the track meets the cliff. Described L to R.

Up weakness just L of JAS, then delicate traverse R across slab and up crack above (direct might be possible if not seeping).

Nice corner line, with a thin start, and a piton! You can top out, or traverse R at the top to the loweroff on Beestburgers.

Line of FH's up thin slab just R of JAS. Full value climbing.

Line just R of Beestburgers. Easily up into corner, then up to slightly runout wall climbing (some thin wires in between the FH's).

Main crack in centre of wall, just R of Beestburgers. Thin start and a strenuous move leads to enjoyable climbing. Trend L at the top, finishing at Anchor under roof.

Nice slab/wall climb. Over steep start, then balance onto slab and across to FH. Up corner, then up the line until another FH leads you into the top corner. Once you gain the arete it's a bit sandy to finish. Rap anchor is 35m from the ground, a 60m rope may not quite make it.

Direct start to stainless courage from the cave / overhang. Straight up to top corner, then as for SC. All trad.

About 60m R of cave (and 40m short of the waterfall) is a recessed corner-line.

1. 25m 19. Climb corner until it blanks out, and a committing move to the arete brings easier climbing to belay.

2. 20m 21. Up to Roof, then R into line and up. It's nice to finish by stepping L at the top across the slab.

Protection is adequate, although be careful on the swing to the arete. Small wires and cams, although a #3 is very handy on the first pitch.

Attractive corner / flake line about 10m L of the main waterfall. Rap from block at 25m (sling), or continue to the top.

Steep slightly overhang wall in a great position.

Fun steep overhanging wall, prob a little soft for the grade. At the top of the turret, make a move L then back R under the roof. Spicy traversing finish.

Grampians wall climbing at it's best with distinct sections of increasingly sustained and technical climbing. Start at the corner 3m L of Forty is the new 23. Small gear required for the initial corner, and beware the top FH is very difficult to clip, add a long draw.

A link-up, but with fantastic and sustained climbing the whole way; taking in the best parts of both routes. Head up the project, then where the project goes L, bust R to Arete (good wires) to finish up 'Forty is the New 23'. Wires and small-med cams.

A good line, and a slightly more enjoyable way to go to get to the final crack of Lost on Migration. Start just down and L of '40 is the new 23', up L into corner, then over bulge to a rest (and a high wire on the L), now traverse R and up into LOM.

Great climbing up the leaning shallow corner; which slowely increases with difficulty. Gain the line via large hole (thread), great moves, with gear much better than it looks after you get past the start. Finish at fixed anchor / lower-off.

Nice climbing up snaking line. About 5m R of '40 is the new 23'. Take the L line at first overlap, up the corner a few moves, then carefully traverse L onto small ledge and up widening crack above.

Easily accessed from the RH end of the Middle Tier. Can also be easily approached from the Briggs Bluff walking trail if you happen to be up there. Follow the creek down and it's the first main cliff-line on the R

Arching crack 10m L oft 'Jungle Drums Talk'. Thin crack to good stance half way up. Shake out, take a deep breath and follow the overhanging crack to the top.

Obvious, smooth, blimp-like corner on the upper tier, about 100m south of the creek.

To the R end of the upper tier is a steep offwidth in the corner... Luckily this climb takes the arete on the R (starting just R of it).

The following climbs are described here, but are on different cliffs around the other side of the rockfall. You can approach NGGN from above (first gully N of the main creek), or by scrambling around R of rockfall (be careful, but it's not as bad as it looks if you stay back from the edge).

Nice corner with good gear, just beware of a few loose blocks at the start and finish. Starts approx 40m N (RHS) of rockfall, at slabby corner.

The next two routes are about a kilometre from No Gnus is Good Gnus. From the track junction above Wildebeest, follow the main track NW for 500m to an orange stone fireplace. Scrub bash north down into a gully then down the gully to the top of the cliff (10 min from track). The climbing is on the portion of the cliff to your right (facing out), and the best descent is at the far end. Cliff faces NW.

Start 5m right of the cave nearest the left end of the cliff (cairn). Up face for 12m to where it blanks out. Move left past loose looking flake, then up seam.

About 150m right of Détente and just right of a chimney corner is a thin left facing dihedral corner. Up this and straight through the bulge. (James lowered off half way up leaving the rope on the route, and Chris lead through).

This is a continuation of the Lower Tier - on the RHS of the waterfall, and has a few challenging climbs on grey stone of varying quality. The obvious rockfall is above!

WARNING: Beware of the massive rockfall on the top of much of this cliff as it is extremely loose with much scree and loose rock on top. We didn't witnessed anything come down on our 5 days there, but esp after rain, you never know.

Rather mossy adventure wall climb that is quite an outing. Start about 20m R of the waterfall behind boulder. Up shallow corner seams (committing). R at rooflet then trend back L above, heading for the final corner. Guarding the corner is an enormous, hollow sounding block which can be avoided (but appears attached). Launch into final corner (crux) and trend up final juggy wall to belay below final terrace. Take very small wires to a size 3 Camelot.

The following 3 routes are located on a smooth S facing wall at the far RH end of the rock-scree. They finish at a rap station that is at least 32m from the ground. You can only just get down with a 60m rope - beware.

Fully engaging wall climb the whole way. Left line of the wall. Gear to size 1 cams.

A bouldery start (FH) leads into more moderate climbing, up the crack. Hard moves where the crack bends slightly L, then R at the horizontal and up to FH, where final hard reachy moves lead to slopey ledge. Bonus points for finishing direct up crack, without going into the corner.

Start on the R at the overhanging arete with FH. Pull hard to gain the line, then up to fixed thread, traverse up and R around the nose, then trend forever up juggy arete until you reach the ledge.

A compact grey and orange wall about 200m South of the Main / Middle Tier. Hosts a few good climbs, with room for more. Gets shade from around 1pm.

Start as for Grey Mouse Lemur at the crack. Where it goes R, head L past a FH and up into next crack. Definitely a harder finish, but shares the same crux start.

'Grey Mouse Lemur is the smallest primate which can do a pull-up'. Stretch for good starting holds at the thin crack which breaks through the overhang on the LHS. Channel your inner Lemur, pull up, then move slightly R and finish up wall. Nice climbing.

Takes the 3 FH up nice compact wall in the centre of the crag - traverse in from the R, after you grapple with the bulgy start. An easier variant is to ignore the bolts, and climb the wide crack direct. Finishes at Rap Anchor.

Great sustained climbing. Start as for PM, then up thin crack until you can make a few moves L, then straight up final pumpy crack to the top.

Takes the Turret-like line with 3 spaced bolts on the LH side of the R wall. Start at short crack, then head L over roof. Take a small rack, saving a #2 cam for after the 2nd bolt.

A fantastic sequence of tenuous moves up central waterstreak R of Wilderpeople. Tricky to get gear in for the traverse R into the line (could probably do with another bolt). At the top, head left up headwall to lower-off, or R and up Arete.