Good climbing out on the buttress rather than in the dank chimneys. The route is now considered grade 20, but it does relent somewhat after the start.
Start: Line up buttress just left of "Vee Wee"
25m (20) Line then right and bulging flake. Step right to belay.
28m (18) Up and L on lovely flake system (poor pro). Around the arete, finishing up thin crack on front of buttress
20m (18) Up on block then crack in orange wall. The final wide section can be avoided by going up left on flakes. This pitch was later written up be Peter Steane as a variant pitch to Stinger. He used the flakes out left to finish which may have been new ground.
22m (17) Climb the juggy corner behind and right of the belay until you can move right to climb middle of the steep, grey buttress on fantastic rock.
12 2월 1978 | 초등들: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve |
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어떤 내용들은 ~로부터 허가아래 제공되었습니다. © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
20 | 공동체 등록 등급들 |
★private | |
18 | Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update |
18 | South Eastern Grampians |
21 [19 - 21] + | grAId |
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
Overall quality 53 from 5 ratings.
Author(s): Steve Toal
일자: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Steve Toal
일자: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons
일자: 2016
ISBN: 9780646955544
"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"
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