★★★ Medusa 25 R

The main attraction is a seductive groove on the second pitch reminiscent of Cardigan St, but with lesser quality rock and a sullied history. For those who "only" climb 25, the first pitch is very worthwhile in its own right and deserves a lot more traffic than it gets - especially since the old bolts were replaced (2009). Start as for The Seventh Pillar.

1. 40m (25) Follow the Seventh Pillar LHV for 25m to the bolts at the top of the flake, and then rightwards for a few metres up the runout face. Where SP LHV traverses R to the break, instead continue up past 2 more bolts (the runout to the 1st bolt is fairly secure for a 25 climber), via excellent climbing, to a hanging belay just below break (32m rap, can lower off with a 60m rope - but only just!).

2. -m (-) 25m, 29 (open project). This pitch moves R to gain the distinctive line of water scoops about 8m L of the prominent flake on Seventh Pillar pitch 2. This pitch was "enhanced" with a glue edge by Poultney, but he never sent it (and the glue edge has now gone). On his "belayer's lap" Dave Jones sent the pitch at 29, with a token sit down low. And there it remains - unfinished. If slightly dubious rock and the now old bolts don't bother you ... help yourself. The 29 version moves R at the top of the groove before gaining the major break, however the direct to the break should go around 31/2, and the line then continues above the bushes to the top of the wall. Do NOT rely on the rap anchor just below the bushy break - it uses only one bolt, of a type which has often failed. About 8 bolts?

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

• Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

• Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

• Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

• Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

• Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

• Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

• Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

• Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

• Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

• Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

• Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education