A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Chris L o_g topher Alex Hartshorne Tiburonny Brendan Heywood Liam Mangan-Smith Laurent Martin Nick Morgan Luen Warneke
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
어떤 내용들은 ~로부터 허가아래 제공되었습니다. © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1.
The Organ Pipes
403 in Crag
- 1.1. Broken Buttress 16 routes in Area
- 1.2. University Buttress 31 routes in Area
- 1.3. Bulging Buttress 31 routes in Area
-
1.4.
Teardrop Gully 33 routes in Area
- 1.4.1. Summertime Buttress 0 routes in Sector
- 1.5. Step Tier 12 routes in Area
- 1.6. Great Tier 35 routes in Area
- 1.7. Central Buttress 73 routes in Area
- 1.8. Flange Buttress 31 routes in Area
- 1.9. The Columns 60 routes in Area
- 1.10. Rockaway and Amphitheatre 21 routes in Crag
- 1.11. Northern Buttress 44 routes in Crag
- 1.12. Far North 16 routes in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Organ Pipes
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.896453, 147.240786
요약
One of the iconic climbing areas in Australia. Vertical dolerite columns with up to 120m in height!
설명
Climbing the Organ Pipes is a serious adventure! Occasional loose rock, complex route finding and a sense of exposure heightened by the kilometre drop down to sea level all contribute to a wilderness adventure. As Phil Robinson once said: "In terms of mileage of routes, skinned knuckles, expenditure of effort and annual traffic, the Organ Pipes is the major focus of climbing activity in Tasmania."
접근 문제들
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!
http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania
Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website
윤리문제
Crag Stewards
Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (kunyani@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.
Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
Other
• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted
• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.
• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.
• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn
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1.1. Broken Buttress
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.898511, 147.239816
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Van Diemen Buttress | 11 | ||||||
2 |
Spurline
FA: R. Alsop, M. Douglas, A. Keller, Mar 1968. Direct Finish: R. Mansfield, P. Robinson, Sep 1980. & R. Mansfield, 1968 | 16 | 48m | |||||
Seamstress Buttress | ||||||||
4 | ★★ Seamstress | 25 | 25m | |||||
5 | ★★ Assault Course | 23 | ||||||
6 |
Start Me Up
FA: N. Deka & S. Bunton, 1987 | 19 | 30m | |||||
7 |
Crestline
FA: U. Aurelli, D. Cox & P. Sands, 1961 FFA: P. Robinson & R. Mansfield, 1980 | 16 | 45m | |||||
Good, Excellent and Ugly ButtressThis quiet south facing wall is a bit of a hike, but features three good quality sports routes. | ||||||||
9 |
★★ The Truth
The left of the classic Parkyn trilogy offers 15m of strenuous and technical laybacks to reach a welcome rest. The intimidating bulge above can then be climbed to the left, directly, or to the right. Good luck. FA: Roger Parkyn | 22 | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★ The Way
The centre line. A bouldery and strenuous start. Hope you can lock off and gaston. Try to avoid using the corner crack to the right of the initial wall (or take a 22 grade if you do). After the initial wall, either finish at the anchors of 'The Truth' or continue up the interesting but slightly lichenous wall above to the top of the buttress. FA: Roger Parkyn | 24 | 35m | |||||
11 |
★ No Way
A cop out to avoid the crux of The Way. But still good climbing. | 23 | ||||||
12 |
★ The Light
Our Lord described himself as 'The Truth, The Way and The Life'. The Parkyn trilogy features 'The Truth, The Way, and The Light'. It is unclear if Roger has just got the quote wrong, or if he is proclaiming himself as our new saviour. Either way, this punchy number will raise your spirits. FA: Roger Parkyn | 23 | 15m | |||||
13 |
★ The Good, The Excellent and The Ugly
FA: D. Stephenson & N. Deka, 1988 | 22 | 30m | |||||
14 |
Prodigal
FA: G. Kowalik & P. Robinson, 1981 | 15 | 130m, 5 | |||||
15 | ★ Blind Faith | 21 | 35m | |||||
Redneck RidgeUpper reaches of Fools Couloir, best accessed from the summit carpark. | ||||||||
17 | ★★ Tired Cliches | 18 | 20m | |||||
18 | Brand New Lies | 12 | 15m | |||||
19 | ★★ Rick the Redneck | 18 | 25m |
1.2. University Buttress
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.898282, 147.240542
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Mountain Rocket
Sustained pitch with some excellent moves. FA: Dave H Jon N, 2017 | 22 | 25m, 13 | |||||
2 | ★ Two Angry Young Men | 21 | 50m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★★ Hold That Thought
Excellent face climbing. Access by climbing Well Actually. | 24 | 27m | |||||
4 |
Well Actually
Access pitch for Hold That Thought | 16 | 15m | |||||
5 | Sisyphus | 16 | 55m, 2 | |||||
6 | ★★ Pete's Power Plummet | 19 | 70m, 3 | |||||
Triclinicty Buttress | ||||||||
8 |
★ Cleavage
Cracks left of the Triclinicity corner, to DBB. | 18 | 20m | |||||
9 |
★ Triclinicity
The clean hand crack. Either step left at the roof (grade 17) or continue direct up the crack (grade 19). Belay anchors at top. FA: P. Robinson, K. Bischoff & Mar 1981., 1981 | 18 | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★ Wide Boy
FA: R. Parkyn & O. Gervasoni, 2월 2015 | 21 | 24m, 2 | |||||
11 | ★★ Ozymandias | 15 | 65m | |||||
12 |
★ Blind Vision
FA: R Parkyn, 3월 2015 | 22 | 47m, 2 | |||||
13 | ★★ Blank Generation | 22 | 60m, 2 | |||||
Avalanche Couloir - Sunny Side | ||||||||
15 | Rebel Without Claws | 24 | 25m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Chancellor Direct
Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir
FA: I. Lewis & L. Closs, 1972 | 17 | 60m, 2 | |||||
17 |
★ Chancellor
Takes the prominent corner line immediately right of Chancellor Direct about 8m up the left side of Avalanche Couloir. Start in the big broken right facing corner as for Vice Chancellor or start up the short wall just right of Chancellor Direct to meet the big corner after 8m. This second option doesn't add much other than the possibility of a painful ground fall.
FFA: Unknown FA: M. Douglas & T. Terry, 1967 | 16 | 55m, 2 | |||||
18 |
Vice Chancellor
Starts as for Chancellor in the big right facing corner between Chancellor Direct and Carpe Diem.
FA: G.Batten, M. Douglas & R. Mansfield, 1968 | 11 | 56m, 3 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Carpe Diem
Brilliant face climbing. A double set of small/medium wires very useful. About 10m right of CD is a recessed column. Scramble up to the base with care. Up, till you can step right onto the column proper. Follow shallow r facing corner till the gear fizzles out, then reach righ to gain hidden flake. Follow this up to gain top of column. There is a DBB a few metres up and left. | 19 | 45m | |||||
20 |
★★ Piping Hot
Crack to right of carpet diem with roof at 20m. | 20 | 30m | |||||
21 |
★★ Terra Nullis
Bolted arete up and right from Cape Diem. DBB. | 21 | 30m, 9 | |||||
22 | Sphygmus | 18 | 18m | |||||
23 | Clench Your Fist and Think of England | 20 | 18m | |||||
Avalanch Couloir - Shady Side | ||||||||
25 | ★★ Kwang Hwa Lantern | 27 | 20m | |||||
26 | ★ Torre | 25 | 8m | |||||
27 | ★ Falstaff | 19 | 25m | |||||
Aperitif ButtressThis small buttress is in between University Buttress and Avalanche Gully, right next to the main path. | ||||||||
29 |
Canapes
1a. A tasty morsel climbing the left-hand arete. Thoughtful moves past the bolts, then over the small roof, with a trad hand crack to the DBB (17m). 1b. Extra Nibbles. (17) If you want a little more trad action, climb the alternative start up the crack just around to the left of Canapes, joining the original route above the roof. FA: B. Bull, T. McKenny & I. Crossland, 12월 2016 | 18 | 17m, 2 | |||||
30 |
★ The Cocktail Hour
The arete directly off the walking track. Good but spaced protection. FA: Tony McKenny & Bob Bull, 2016 | 18 | 17m | |||||
31 |
Aperitif
Starts directly from the track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress. Climb right side of arete on flakes and horizontals. | 17 | 30m | |||||
32 |
★ Catch the Sun in Flight
Wall climbing immediatly left of Sun Stealer. FA: 3월 2015 | 16 | 12m, 4 | |||||
33 |
★ Sun Stealer
Up black streak immediatly left of 19 Shades. Shares last bolt and DBB with that route. | 19 | 14m, 6 | |||||
34 |
★★ 19 Shades of Grey
Located on small buttress next to track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress, at the base of Avalanche Couloir. Climb the right side of short black streaked wall to DBB. | 19 | 15m, 6 | |||||
35 |
★ Sparkle
2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs. Head left under the roof and crank up the arete, to skip the broken hold crux FA: T. McKenny, O. Gervasoni & D. Stephenson | 23 | 10m, 5 | |||||
|
1.3. Bulging Buttress
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.897836, 147.241402
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
SSSSI WallAccess to this face requires climbing 50m up Avalanche Couloir and scrambling back R to the base of the wall | ||||||||
2 | ★★★ (S.S.S.S.I.) Seriously Searching for Sanity but Suiciding Instead | 22 | 32m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Mildly Amused
The first 10m is gear protected, the remaining is fully bolted. | 25 | 35m, 9 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Beaten and Abused
FA: D. Stephenson, N. Deka & P. Steane, 1989 | 22 | 40m | |||||
5 |
★★ Crazed and Confused
FA: N. Deka, D. Stephenson & Feb 1989, 1989 | 22 | 40m | |||||
Black Magic Area | ||||||||
7 |
★ What's Left
A direct variant to Whatever. Start as for that route, but after the roof continue direct staying left of the arete, eventually finishing up the last couple of bolts of Whatever. | 23 | ||||||
8 |
★ Whatever
Starts at the highest point of the gully, climbing to the base of the climb is a bit precarious. Face climbing to the roof, then move right with great technical climbing up the arete using oddly angled flakes. FA: Roger Parkyn, 22 11월 2015 FFA: Chris L, 24 11월 2015 | 21 | 20m | |||||
9 | ★★ The Wizard | 18 | 80m, 3 | |||||
10 | ★★ Cold Power | 21 | 30m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★★★ Heat Pump
The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.
There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the ground using the climber as a counterweight. | 22 | 30m, 2, 12 | |||||
12 |
★ Smokin'
Climbs the steep thin crack-line about 6 m R of Heat Pump. DBB lower-off. | 20 | 15m | |||||
13 |
★★ Warm Glow
Line of bolts right of Heat Pump. Climb P1 of Heat Pump to access ledge. Follow the corner to a ledge, then continue up face and arete on some sharp holds | 21 | 20m, 7 | |||||
14 | ★ Lignum Vitae | 14 | 100m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Black Magic
Climb the slab, trending left of the prow to a lightly overhanging hand crack. Follow this up and over several spears of rock to a ledge (a belay can be set-up here to split the route into two pitches). From here, head to the crack on the left and follow it up and to the right, stepping right around the corner when it ends to DBB and rap-station. FA: Kim Carrigan & Ian Lewis, 1975 | 18 | 55m | |||||
16 | Magic Mushroom Variants | 17 | 50m | |||||
17 | ★★ Malignant Mushroom | 19 | 50m | |||||
18 | ★★ Equipoise | 22 | 30m, 1 | |||||
19 |
★★ Isonomy
FA: A. Donoghue & H. Jackson, 2014 | 24 | 30m | |||||
Jelly Wall | ||||||||
21 | Eye for a Line | 16 | 34m | |||||
22 |
★ Jelly Roll
Cracked face just to the right of the prow, 2m left of the tree. Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary (but the gear is good). Finishes with double bolt belay at the Black Magic step. FA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg & Apr 1978., 1976 | 17 | 35m | |||||
23 | Breakneck | 14 | ||||||
24 | ★ Smoke and Mirrors | 19 | 35m | |||||
25 |
Dal Nulla
Poorly protected Climbs the obvious corner, grovel through the mossy overhang section, finish up the dirty chimney, Bolted loweroff FA: P. Robinson, C. (Basil) Rathbone & May 2013, 2013 | 13 | 30m | |||||
26 | ★★ Crucio | 17 | 30m | |||||
27 | Humpty Dumpty | 14 | 30m | |||||
Breaker Spur Area | ||||||||
29 |
Breaker Chimney
FA: T. Terry & K. Hall, 1968 | 14 | 110m, 4 | |||||
30 | ★★ Breaker Spur | 13 | 100m, 4 | |||||
31 |
★★ Indian Summer
FA: T. McKenny & P. Robinson, 2013 | 16 | 49m, 3 | |||||
32 |
Spice Trade
FA: L. Martin & T. Smith, 2014 | 19 | 19m | |||||
33 |
★★ Cracked Pepper
FA: I. Snape, T. McKenny (alt.) & A. Adams, 2012 | 17 | 46m, 2 | |||||
34 |
Breakout
FA: G. Kowalik & P. Robinson, 1979 | 13 | 110m, 3 | |||||
35 |
Hormesis
FA: H. Jackson & A. Donoghue, 2014 | 20 | 48m |
1.4. Teardrop Gully
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.897351, 147.241398
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summertime ButtressThe first buttress at the base of the gulley. A series of shorter routes tucked away in the shade. Best accessed in summer as the area appears to be a major runoff of water from above. | ||||||||
3 |
The Bentwood
The leftmost climb, short and sweet with steep climbing on good rock. Walk back after top out to rap station. FA: T. McKenny, B.Bull & B.Maddison, 1월 2017 | 16 | 12m, 3 | |||||
4 |
Dave's Wall
On the wide wall, 2m right of The Bentwood. Starting low to the left, climb the left hand side of the wall. Finally move right at the top to DBB. FA: D.Humphries & J.Nermut, 2014 | 18 | 12m | |||||
5 |
Thor
Climbs the right hand side of the wide wall to DBB. Good protection in horizontal cracks. FA: T.McKenny, B.Maddison & B.Bull, 1월 2015 | 15 | 11m | |||||
6 |
Jon's Crack
Crack immediately right of the large wall. Fun climb with abundant options for protection. Good for someone learning to lead. Recommend rap from top, lowering will drag rope. FA: J.Nermut, 2014 | 13 | 11m | |||||
7 |
★ Sleeping Dogs
Bolted line 3m right of Jon's Crack. Fun climbing on solid rock. Move straight up the rounded arete to DBB found 2m back from climb. DBB is up quite high on uneven ground, take care. FA: B.Bull, T.McKenny & I. Crossland | 18 | 12m, 5 | |||||
8 |
★ Gone Viral
Bolted line, close to the "waterfall". Shares DBB with Sleeping Dogs. FA: B. Maddison, B. Bull. & T. McKenny, 1월 2017 | 18 | 12m, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★ The Unrideable Chicken
On the right hand side of the gully. Great moves with a spicy crux. FA: B. Maddison, T. McKenny, S. Scott & B. Bull, 1월 2017 | 19 | 10m, 4 | |||||
Farewell To Arms Buttress (LH Side) | ||||||||
11 |
Out Of The Frying Pan
chimney left of FTA | 17 | 32m | |||||
12 |
★★ Farewell to Arms
The obvious crack system on the south face of the first buttress, clearly visible from the track. ACCESS: Either scramble up 60m of vegetated ledges OR (Much better) climb Sleeping Dogs at Summertime Buttress then scramble up and left to the base of the butress. Start at the base of the buttress and climb up to the left of the prow. Move onto the left face and up the sustained, flared cracks to belay on a ledge just below the top of the buttress. Tape abseil to descend. FA: D. Stephenson & N. Deka, 1989 | 21 | 30m | |||||
13 |
★★ Into the Fire
A sustained route following the prominent corners on the north side of the first buttress, clearly visible from the Organ Pipes Track. Climb with difficulty into a shallow scoop using insecure small wires for protection (a peg was used here originally). Continue through a bulge using layaway holds to one more queasy experience, a sloping jug. Continue up to belay at a ledge. FA: Simon Parsons & Kim Bischoff, 1981 | 22 | 30m | |||||
14 |
Farouche
the crack right of ITF | 15 | 26m | |||||
Wootang Ledge | ||||||||
16 |
★★ Five-Nil
No natural gear required. Access from the top of the mountain is probably easiest.
FA: D. McConnell, 2007 | 25 | 45m, 2 | |||||
17 |
★ Cornered
Start approximately 5m left of Wootang. Climb the thin crack line just right of the arête, protected by small to mid-sized cams (some people think these small cams are quite dodgy), then continue up the shallow corner above past 3 FH to a DBB at the ledge. A. Williams, early 2005. FFA: A. Williams, 2005 | 23 | 20m, 3 | |||||
18 |
★★ Wootang
A dedication to Lois Scarr. Start on the right-hand side of the wide face above the ledge at a DBB. Layaways on the face for the first 10m (crux) lead to a small ledge, continue up the face above to a DBB on the ledge at 35m. A short pitch (18) past one FH provides access to the top DBB if required. A. Williams, Oct 2002. | 25 | 45m | |||||
19 |
★★★ Shaolin
The line of bolts to the left of The Colour of Magic. Scramble up the large corner then step right to gain the second bolt. Climb the shallow corner then move right into the thin layaway seam, following this to tricky topout. | 27 | 25m | |||||
20 | ★★ The Colour of Magic | 26 | 25m, 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Dark SideAKA Teardrop Wall | ||||||||
22 |
Dave's Climb / Deano's Climb
The crack climb to the niche, then awkward and thoughtful climbing to the top. FA: D. James & D. Rollins, 2010 | 17 | 10m | |||||
23 | ★★ Ano's Sojourn | 18 | 10m | |||||
24 | Fire and Forget | 17 | 12m | |||||
25 | Turkey Slap | 24 | 12m | |||||
26 |
Funemployment
The crack 2m right from Turkey Slap. Start in the crack with stemming options, through the leftwards jag, then to the top of Turkey slap pinnacle. Extend the DBB from Turkey Slap or easily continue to the top. FA: Chris Lang & Madi Roseavear, 11월 2020 | 16 | 14m | |||||
27 |
★ You are not my Friend
Starts just uphill of the pinnacle in an offwidth crack. Climb three offwidth sections to belay in base of chimney. Scramble out. FA: Deano & Topher, 2012 | 17 | 20m | |||||
28 | Sweepings | 13 | 20m | |||||
29 | ★ Ceci N'est Pas Une Pipe | 19 | 10m | |||||
30 | Cocksure propultion | 21 | 20m | |||||
31 | ★★★ Suzerain | 18 | 32m | |||||
32 | ★★ Built like a donkey | 18 | 22m | |||||
33 | Live Fast, Die Young | 24 | 18m | |||||
34 | ★★ Sunk by a pink torpedo | 22 | 18m | |||||
35 | Fat snatcher | 8 | 14m | |||||
36 | Pretty septic | 17 | 14m | |||||
37 | ★ Sheeza | 18 | 17m | |||||
38 | ★★ The Virus | 21 | 12m |
1.4.1. Summertime Buttress
설명
The first buttress at the base of the gulley. A series of short walls with a waterfall at the top of the gulley. Cold and dark during winter but lovely in the summer heat.
접근
Head up Bulging Buttress track, moving right when the track splits. Move right until a scree scramble upwards to the waterfalls base.
1.5. Step Tier
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.897526, 147.241724
설명
Step Tier is a place that maintains its popularity simple becasue it houses some of the best kick-ass natural climbing on the Mountain. The apex of the climbing is, Moonraker. This climb really is a middle grade, photogenic,magic number that sermounts the step and then blasts straight up into the heavens. Even the rap down is a doozey. Step Tier also has easy access from the Organ Pipes Track and can be easily pin-pionted from there. It is about a four minute walk (left) from the Northern Butress track junction.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Left Out | 21 | 30m | |||
2 | ★★ Sucked In | 24 | ||||
3 | Mothers on Adrenalin | 20 | 25m | |||
4 | ★★★ Moonraker | 16 | 70m, 3 | |||
5 |
★★★ Moonraker variant
Alternative to the first two pitches of Moonraker. Pitch 1: Climb the crag for 10m, traverse right in the horizontal break to the cave and keep going as for Moonraker Pitch 2: Follow original variant until below the chimney, then step right to a small ledge and continue with the steep crack until you reach the original line again. Pitch 3: to rap station as for Moonraker | 17 | 77m, 3 | |||
6 | ★ One Way to the Moon | 19 | 40m | |||
7 |
★★ Xenophanes
Nice line, take a #4 and #5. FA: I Lewis & D Hain, 1974 | 17 | 81m, 3 | |||
8 |
★★★ Lone Stranger
FA: Kim Carrigan & Ian Lewis, 1974 | 19 | 78m, 3 | |||
9 | ★★ Opthalmia | 18 | 80m | |||
10 |
★★ Bokeh
The bolted line 3m to the right of Lone Stranger p1.
| 24 | 63m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ Peacepipe | 16 | 80m | |||
12 | Sunday Morning Fever! | 17 | 25m |
1.6. Great Tier
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.897178, 147.241618
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Zoloft Wall | ||||||||
2 | ★★ Static Journey | 19 | 50m | |||||
3 | Choc-o-Block | 17 | 25m | |||||
4 | ★★ Zoloft | 19 | 45m | |||||
5 | ★★ Dynamic Journey | 20 | 25m | |||||
Suicide Sadness AreaRoutes in the Suicide Sadness area start at the left hand end of the ramp immediately beyond the big step midway along the ramp. | ||||||||
7 | ★★ Melancholy Mania | 16 | 100m, 3 | |||||
8 |
★ Manic Melancholy
A less vegetated variant for Melancholy Mania. Takes the rib if rock to the L of the second pitch of Melancholy Mania. Scramble around from Suicide Sadness to avoid the first pitch of the above climb and belay at the base of the chimney. Climb up cracks and shallow corner past rooflet and blocky sections up the belay for Melancholy Mania. | 17 | 50m | |||||
9 | ★★ Tsing Gai | 20 | 65m | |||||
10 |
★★ Janzoon
Pitch 2+3 can be combined. FA: I.Lewis & B.Kennedy, 1974 | 17 | 60m, 3 | |||||
11 | ★ Massacre Madness | 21 | 40m | |||||
12 | ★★★ Suicide Sadness | 18 | 60m | |||||
13 | ★ Terror Firmer | 25 | 20m | |||||
14 |
★★ Nefertiti
FA: J Moore & P Stranger, 1968 | 15 | 77m, 2 | |||||
15 |
★★ Clouds of Obsession
Black streaked buttress, up and left from Slow Combustion. Awesomly sustained and balancy face climbing, to a DBB. Well protected if you have doubles of micro cams. | 22 | 30m | |||||
16 |
Passiona
FA: V. Kennedy & J. Moore, 1968 | 13 | 66m, 2 | |||||
17 |
★★ G Pillar
Climbs pillar between Clouds of Obsession & Slow Combustion. Excellent climbing, let down somewhat by a hard first 5m, and scrubby last 5m. Good protection. At top of pillar, traverse 4m to rap of Clouds of Obsession chain (25m). | 15 | 52m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 |
★★ Slow Combustion
Start a few meters after the big step in the access ramp at the right-hand end of the Suicide Sadness area.
50m abseil from the bolted anchor on the right end of the ledge to the start of the climb. FA: T. McKenny, P. Robinson & B. Rathbone, 1979 | 15 | 52m, 2 | |||||
19 |
★ Slow Combustion Direct
Starts 1.5m Right of Slow Combustion. Traverse left for 2m below dark roof to rejoin Slow Combustion. FA: H.Jackson, 1998 | 16 | 52m | |||||
20 |
★★ Twist in My Sobriety
FFA: I. Snape & T. McKenny FA: Pitches 1, 2: T. McKenny, A. Beech. Pitch 3: I. Snape & T. McKenny, 2011 | 18 | 50m, 3 | |||||
21 | Doldrums | 14 | 120m, 4 | |||||
Blue Meridian areaRoutes in the Blue Meridian area start right of the big step midway along the ramp | ||||||||
23 |
★★ Schizophrenic
Three pitch sport route starting 10m up the ramp from BM.
FA: J Nermut & D Humphries, 2012 | 21 | 70m, 3, 24 | |||||
24 | ★★ Roaring Forties | 15 | 80m | |||||
25 | Feeble Fifties | 15 | 120m, 4 | |||||
26 |
Shaky Flakes
FA: D. Fife & P. Mackenzie, 1983 | 18 | 10m | |||||
27 |
★★★ Blue Meridian
A must do if you are in this area of the Pipes. Trad with DBB anchor stations at the top of both pitches. | 17 | 90m, 2 | |||||
28 |
Prime Meridian
second pitch alternative to Blue Meridian or Fine Time | 23 | 45m | |||||
29 |
★★ Fine Time / Slime Time
FA: D. Stephenson & N. Deka, 1988 | 21 | 92m, 2 | |||||
The Lower TierTake the signposted track up to Great Tier; where the track meets the cliff take the left fork that is signposted to Step Tier | ||||||||
31 | Janzoon Direct | 15 | 38m, 2 | |||||
32 | Thirsty Thirties | 20 | 33m | |||||
33 |
★★ Skyfall
About 20m left of Kabling is a short inset wall.
FA: T McKenny & P Robinson, 2013 | 20 | 40m, 2 | |||||
34 |
★ Quantum of Solace
Precarious and pumpy climbing. Start on the ledge as for Skyfall (can be accessed via the short bolted wall, or by scrambling up the vegetated corner to gain right side of ledge). Climb several metres right of Skyfall, blasting up up the seam and through the large roof passing the DBB of Solace to the rest ledge. From the ledge, clip the bolt up and left on the hanging arete, then commit to moving up and left (crux) above the void. Balance up arete to a DBB FA: O Gervasoni & T McKenny, 2013 | 23 | 32m, 16 | |||||
35 |
★ Solace
as for QoS; stop at DBB after roof | 22 | 20m, 14 | |||||
36 |
Procrastination
3m left of Kabling is a right facing corner. Up this then slightly left to top of yellow fin. Fiddle in some gear and climb the short crux wall, to a belay on the main ramp. FA: T Mckenny, A Beech & O Gervasoni FFA: 2013 | 17 | 35m | |||||
37 |
★★ Kabling
On the lower tier, 15m left of where the track meets the tier, is a compact black streaked wall leading to a featured roof. Excellent face climbing past a FH to a ledge. Up corner above before moving right and through the big roof, then the face and arete above to DBB. Scramble a further 10m to the base of G Pillar. Micro cams important. FA: O. Gervasoni & B. Ikin, 2012 | 17 | 25m, 1 | |||||
38 |
★ Master Class
FA: T. McKenny, B. Bull, T. McKenny & B. Bull, 2월 2017 | 18 | 20m, 2 | |||||
39 |
The Trump Tower
FA: B. Bull, T. McKenny, B. Maddison & S. Scott, 2월 2017 | 20 | 24m, 7 |
1.7. Central Buttress
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.896665, 147.242061
설명
The most extensive buttress on the Pipes. The RH end of 'Central Buttress' is broken and scrubby (Pooch 'Gully', a vegetated trough that separates Flange and Central Buttress). The LH end of the 'Central Buttress' is steeper and cleaner providing routes of greater quality.
접근
Continue on the 'Organ Pipes' Track past the access track to 'Flange Buttress' for roughly another 50m, passing a large horizontal flat boulder before cutting up R. (GPS: E0519827 N5250667) This is usually marked by a small cairn.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
The ArenaAmphitheatre at upper LH end of Central Buttress. Best accessed by walking down from summit carpark and rapping in. | ||||||||
2 | ★ Menhir | 20 | 40m | |||||
3 | ★★ Asterix | 15 | 27m | |||||
4 | The Den | 16 | 35m | |||||
5 | ★ Gladiator | 21 M1 | 35m | |||||
6 | ★ Catacomb | 17 | 30m | |||||
7 | ★★ Centurion | 18 | 30m | |||||
8 |
★ The Spear
Exciting moments to be had on the prominent hanging pillar R of Centurion. Bridge the offwidth corner 5m R of Centurion for 8m to a small roof. Traverse R under this onto the face of the column. Climb the finger crack past a problematic niche, surmount the large flake above, and continue more easily to the top. FA: D. Stephenson & N. Deka, 1989 | 21 | 30m | |||||
9 | Circus Maximus | 20 | 30m | |||||
10 | Circus Minimus | 17 | 30m | |||||
11 | Obelix | 18 | 40m | |||||
12 | ★★ Legionary | 17 | 35m | |||||
13 | ★ Caledonian Variant | 19 | 45m | |||||
14 | Caledonian | 16 | 45m | |||||
15 | The Steps | 12 | 25m | |||||
16 | ★★ Cheers to Dave | 21 | 35m | |||||
17 | Telopea | 20 | 25m | |||||
18 | Shrapnel | 21 | ||||||
19 | The Spirit | 19 | 30m | |||||
South Central Buttress | ||||||||
21 |
★★ Shrapnel
Climbs a pillar located about 10m right of where the access path to Blue Meridian turns steeply left. Fully bolted, however a finger sized cam may help add confidence for the slopey top-out. | 21 | 25m, 9 | |||||
22 |
★★ Halleluja
Starts at Phil's Crack just around right and up the gully from the start of Shrapnel. Ends by topping out on the Arena. FA: P. Robinson, K. Robinson & C. Rathbone | 20 | 120m, 5 | |||||
Below Battle Cruiser Ledge | ||||||||
24 |
★ Bad Back
Below Battle Cruiser ledge. Bolted route slightly uphill left & around the corner from "The Three Stooges." FA: J. Nermut & D. Humphries | 18 | 12m, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
25 |
★ The Three Stooges
Obvious bolted face below Battle Cruiser ledge, located up side track between Great Tier & Central Buttress access. Mantle near top & across some loose ground to rap station. FA: T. McKenny, S. Scott & B. Bull | 18 | 20m, 7 | |||||
26 |
★ Living the Dream
20m R of The Three Stooges up secondary track. Tricky start then up arete. FA: M. Bailey, B. Bull, T. McKenny & D. Bruce | 18 | 12m, 4 | |||||
Battle Cruiser Ledge | ||||||||
28 |
★★★ Improbability Drive
A stellar route, made awkward by its access. Best to do a route (Battlecruiser etc) that abseils down the Linda Chimney (or just climb the chimney). Either way your heading to the large ledge 10m up and left from the Abseil point 25m up the chimney (at the chockstone).
FA: S. Parsons, D. Fife & Phil Steane, 1982 | 20 | 40m, 2 | |||||
29 |
Linda
Pitch 1: Ground level to obvious large chockstone (rap anchors present) Pitch 2: Up chimney and belay at base of huge corner Pitch 3: 3 variants - Direct (18) - Left of huge corner which becomes offwidth Chimney (15): Climb R wall for 5m, thenstep R up to ledge and finish up chimney FA: J Moore & J Veasey, 1968 | 15 | 90m, 3 | |||||
30 |
★ Five Easy Pieces
The small buttress to the left of the Linda chimney, capped by overhangs. Belay at far left end of Battlecruiser Ledge. Step left across Linda chimney and follow 6 U bolts up wall and blind corner capped by overhangs to double U belay on small ledge above. FA: Dave Stephenson & Neale Smith, 23 4월 2019 | 22 | 15m, 6 | |||||
31 |
★ Hyperspace
FA: N Deka, D Bruce & D Batten, 1988 | 20 | 35m | |||||
32 |
★★ Starship Trooper
The arete left of Battle Cruiser.
| 22 | 74m, 2 | |||||
33 | ★★ Major Tom | 22 | 28m | |||||
34 |
★★★ Space Cowboy
An alternative 2nd pitch to Starship Trooper and Battle Cruiser – start from the belay ledge shared by both routes at the top of their first pitches. Climb directly above the belay into a small left-facing corner to the right of the arête. Layback the flake above to a spectacular rest below a small overhang. Move straight up the arete, or slightly easier, step right and climb straight up a short wall (crux) to join Battle Cruiser at the diagonal trending flake. Continue up the rest of Battle Cruiser to the rap station. FA: D. Stephenson & J. Otlowski, 1989 | 20 | 30m | |||||
35 |
★★★ Battle Cruiser
Both pitches are awesome. Start: Shares the same start as Twice.
FA: M. Law & D. Bowman., 1978 | 18 | 74m, 2 | |||||
36 |
Twice
| 18 | 90m, 3 | |||||
37 |
★ Once
A direct version of Twice. Start 2m right of Battle Cruiser. Follow thin cracks up and through roof to belay at BC ledge. Continue up the corner of Twice. | 20 | 30m | |||||
38 |
Thrice
Alternative start to Faust which avoids some inital chimneying but involves some alarming flakes. Start up flakes 2m L of chimney and continue directly up the wall, eventually stepping right into Faust at the Hakea. Continue up Faust from here. | 15 | 30m | |||||
39 |
Bumps and Angels
The thin line between Faust and Twice, up the thin seam through two overlaps. Looks bold. | 23 | 80m, 2 | |||||
40 |
★★ Faust
The big left-facing chimney.
FA: J. Moore & R. Williams | 16 | 85m, 2 | |||||
41 |
★ Cognitive Dissonance
The line up the face and arête between Faust and Spartan Ethics. There is a thin and balancy crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and another tricky move at the roof, the rest is about 20. FA: J. Nermut, D. Humphries & Jan 2015., 1월 2015 | 22 | 28m, 12 | |||||
42 |
★★ Thesaurus
Steep start then keep following the U's FFA: Heather & Nick Hancock FA: Roger, James Parkyn, Heather, Nick Hancock & May 2016., 5월 2016 | 21 | 24m, 10 | |||||
43 |
★★ Spartan Ethics
Sustained and consistent. An inverted small L-shaped roof/flake marks the start of this route.
FA: (1) S. Parsons, D. Bowman, Dec 1979. (2) D. Bowman, R. Wells, Feb 1978. (3) N. Deka, D. Stephenson & Apr 1988. | 20 | 100m, 3 | |||||
44 | Youth With a Mission | 18 | ||||||
45 | Youth With a Mission Direct Start | 19 | ||||||
Third Bird Area | ||||||||
47 |
★★★ Third Bird
Up the corner from the natural belay bench. Challenging, sustained, airy climbing with good gear.
Rap from DBB anchors (2 raps). Set: Ian Lewis & Lyle Closs, 1973 | 18 | 80m, 2 | |||||
48 |
Banana Republic
Start 3m right of Third Bird
FA: D. Stephenson & N. Deka, 1988 | 18 | 95m, 3 | |||||
49 |
★★ Butt Funky
An average first pitch is a necessary task to access the excellent, airy arete of pitch 2.
| 20 | 110m, 3 | |||||
50 |
High Flyers
Climbs up the hand crack directly above the bolts at the top of pitch 2 of Acid Test. | 18 | 42m | |||||
51 |
★ Acid Test
Located 2m R of the Butt Funky fist crack, 2m L of a deep chimney.
FA: G. Phillips & D. Fife, 1996 FA: T. McKenny & J. Nermut, 2013 | 20 | 120m, 4 | |||||
52 |
★★ Heat
The line of bolts just right of Acid Test. Take a few mid-size cams for 15m of easy scrambling at the top of the third pitch to get to the start of the final pitch. All belays are spacious ledges with DBBs.
| 21 | 100m, 4, 35 | |||||
53 |
★★ Wedgetail
The line of FH right of Heat. Nice, pumpy climbing on some sharp rock. FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2014 | 22 | 28m, 13 | |||||
Kacktus Buttress | ||||||||
55 |
★★ Peregrine
The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken | 23 | 48m, 2 | |||||
56 | ★ Roast Chicken | 14 | 130m | |||||
57 |
★★ Remembrance
Well conceived line up a sharp arete.
FA: D Humphries & J Nermut, 2012 | 21 | 45m, 2, 20 | |||||
58 |
★★ V
A fun little sport climb starting 5m R of Remembrance and climbing to the same anchor. Climb up and into shallow R facing corner, continue up to steep bulge. Jugs lead to good side-pulls on the face above. Step back L to lower-off. Trickier if you are short. However is defo 25. FA: Simon Young, 2013 | 25 | 17m, 8 | |||||
59 | ★ Pugnacious | 22 | ||||||
60 |
★★ Oopsy Daisy
MIxed route left of Kacktus. Climb loose chimney on natural gear until top of pinnacle is reached. Step onto the right wall and follow fully bolted wall to ledge and DBB. There is a short extention to a second DBB. | 23 | 40m, 9 | |||||
61 | ★★ Kacktus | 20 | 40m | |||||
62 |
Alpine Style
Up manky chimney then orange face Access left of Drama Queen and Princess on flange buttress FA: D. Humphries & J. Nermut | 20 | 22m, 8 | |||||
63 | Starseeker | 13 | 100m | |||||
Circus WallRH upper end of Central Buttress. Best accessed by walking down from summit carpark and rapping in. | ||||||||
65 |
Scotch Mist
| 17 | 30m, 2 | |||||
66 |
Faith, Hope and Deliverance
| 17 | 30m, 2 | |||||
67 |
On the Road Again
| 18 | 55m, 2 | |||||
68 |
High Wire
| 19 | 55m, 2 | |||||
69 | Clowning Around | 18 | 60m | |||||
70 | What a Circus | 19 | 58m, 3 | |||||
71 |
★★ Clown Face
Classy face climbing on the lowest tier of Circus Wall. Can be accessed by climbing the first 3 pitches of Heat and then scrambling across scrubby ledge. | 23 | 20m, 9 | |||||
72 | ★★ Centre Stage | 18 | 20m | |||||
73 |
★★ Circus Taz
| 18 | 60m, 3 | |||||
74 |
★★ Circus Interruptus
Nice arete with the crux at the top | 21 | 16m, 6 | |||||
75 | ★★ All The Way | 20 | 15m | |||||
76 |
★★★ Arthur's Circus
| 18 | 55m, 2 | |||||
77 | ★ Line Tamer | 19 | 50m | |||||
78 | Polymorpha | 18 | 35m | |||||
79 | Double Trouble or Triple Treat | 17 | 37m | |||||
80 |
Empty, Unfilled, Bare
Contrived but good! | 24 | 6 |
1.8. Flange Buttress
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.895976, 147.241835
접근
Reddish buttress at the southern end of columns
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Drama Queen
Face/arete left of princess. Starts up a crack. Only to top half is bolted. | 24 | 20m | |||||
2 |
★★ Princess
On the face to the right of Drama Queen. FA: R Parkyn, 11월 2014 | 19 | 25m, 12 | |||||
3 | ★★ Influenza | 21 | 28m, 12 | |||||
4 | ★★ Nefarious | 22 | 25m, 12 | |||||
5 |
★★ Slippery Sensation
Climb RH crack for 7 m, then move into LH crack and up to below a bush. Traverse L and onto arete to Nefarious anchor. Start: Crack to the right of bolted arete (Nefarious 22) FA: S Parsons, K Bischoff & A Wing, 1981 | 20 | 25m | |||||
6 | ★★ Slipper | 20 | 30m | |||||
7 | ★ Ring of Fire | 21 | 15m | |||||
8 |
★ Just a Little Bit Longer
A serious but rewarding single pitch route up the wall to the left of the obvious chimney ("Bert's Fear"). The first half of the route follows the line of least resistance up, trending leftwards, to the obvious large jug on the arete. The climbing on this section is sustained face climbing, with care needed to be taken with some loose rock to be avoided, and some devious gear placements to be found. Small wires very important. From the jug on the arete, the climbing is easier, following a series of short blockly corners up and trending back right to a ledge with two small trees and a cluster of fixed tat. From this tat, a single 60m rope will get you back to the deck (although you're probably better of leading the route on double ropes). | 19 | ||||||
9 |
★★ Berts Butter Menthol
Contentious, original done as a trad route the unknowingly bolted a week later. Climbs the line left of the bolts, it is possible to go right of the bolt at the roof at grade 23. Climb the wall left of "Bert's Fear", starting at the base of the "Bert's Fear" chimney. There is thin crux at the second U and then a pumpy hike to the top (all sport). FFA: Roger Parkyn & Owen Gervasoni, 2013 | 22 | 30m | |||||
10 |
★★ Bert's Fear
Starts 16m downhill of Fiddlesticks at the obvious body chimney in a shallow corner. FA: U. Aurelli, D. Cox & J. Fairhall | 12 | 120m, 4 | |||||
11 |
★ On Bended Knees / Bert's Fear P4 Variant
From the belay at the top of Brown Madonna, wander up rock face on the left and continue straight up hand cracks to the left of the chimney. Traverse right at top to Bert's Fear DBB | 16 | 35m | |||||
12 | ★★ Precarious | 20 | 40m | |||||
13 |
★ Alex's Thing
Sporty route between CSTS and P. Can be done as a second pitch to P, or a single pitch starting as for CSTS and using the DBB for that route to descend. Bring a light rack for the start and the finish FA: A Wilson, 2004 | 22 | 40m, 6 | |||||
14 |
★ Chop Sticks
Originally a short, bold, route connecting the Fiddlesicks ledge to the 1st belay of Precarious. A retro-bolt or two (as part of the logical arete line CSTS) have tamed the route, which is now normally done as part of AT or CSTS. FA: H Jackson & M Jackson, 2000 | 17 | 8m | |||||
15 |
★★ Chop Sticks The Sequel
Mostly sport route up the prominent arete left of Fiddlesticks. Start at the base of Fiddlesticks, and move left to arete (wire and small cam) to gain line of u-bolts. Balancy arete climbing on great rock. You'll probably place another wire & small cam up high before gaining a DBB. FA: A Williams & D Grey, 2004 | 25 | 30m, 10 | |||||
16 |
★★ Fiddlesticks
Starting at a prominent corner with twin cracks.
Continue as for "Bert's Fear" (45m) up the ridge or rap down your choice of three anchors right from ledge - Brown Madonna / Pleasant Screams. FA: Tom Terry & Geoff Wyatt, 1967 | 14 | 65m, 2 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Neon God
Best done as one pitch however, the easier first pitch to this ultra classic is an excellent route in its own right.
FA: Sam Edwards, 1997 | 25 | 50m, 2 | |||||
18 | ★★ The Holy Road | 23 | 25m | |||||
19 |
★★ Big Sticks and Beatings
Follow the finger crack to the right of Neon God. Continue until a solid stance 2/3rds of the way up, resist the urge to move towards the Neon god bolts and head right up the small corner. Traverse left to clip once level with the anchors of of Neon God (pitch one). | 21 | 25m | |||||
20 |
★ The Cuts
This route now has a direct start and finishes called 'The Directors Cut' 21 | 20 | 25m | |||||
21 | ★ The Directors Cut | 21 | 48m, 2 | |||||
22 |
★★★ Digitalis
Start: Crack system to the L, around arete of Brown Madonna.
FFA: D Bowman & M. Steane FA: J. Moore & R. Williams, 1977 | 18 | 62m, 2 | |||||
23 |
★★★ After Midnight
Absolute classic. Up the arête to the left of Brown Madonna. Consistent, exposed, technical moves. Double ropes can reduce drag, but aren't mandatory. | 24 | 50m | |||||
24 |
★★ Pleasant Screams
Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay. The second pitch was climbed at 27 by moving into Brown Madonna at 2/3 height. Nowadays rarely done as Pleasant Screams Direct is a significantly better option. FA: S. Edwards, 1996 | 25 | 20m | |||||
25 |
★★★ Pleasant Screams Direct
One of the best climbs on the pipes. Climb Pleasant Screams to just below the midway anchor then follow the line of bolts to the top in one mega pitch. Avoid moving into After Midnight and Brown Madonna, not as contrived as it sounds. FA: S. Parsons, 2007 | 29 | 50m | |||||
26 | ★★ Brown Madonna | 19 | 50m | |||||
27 |
★★ Pink Car / Brown Madonna
Avoids the chimney at the bottom. Climb the chimney 1m right of Brown Madonna to the hanging flake on the left where you can move back left into that route. | 19 | 50m | |||||
28 | ★ Pink Car | 16 | 50m, 2 | |||||
29 | ★★ The Great Bitch | 19 | 55m, 2 | |||||
30 | ★★ Canis Minor | 18 | 62m, 2 | |||||
31 |
★★★ The Tower of Power
The tall overhanging column to the right of Brown Madonna, 60m single pitch route, sustained arete climbing as good as it gets. Take a no.1 camalot to avoid a runout at about 3/4 height. 19 quickdraws plus rap chains FA: nick hancock | 25 | 60m, 19 | |||||
|
1.9. The Columns
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.895572, 147.241336
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Cairn Column | ||||||||
2 | ★ Best Route in the Gorge | 24 | 15m, 4 | |||||
3 | Birthday Treat | 18 | 27m | |||||
4 | Piccolo | 16 | 90m, 4 | |||||
5 | Serendipity | 19 | 40m, 2 | |||||
6 | Firebird | 18 | 65m, 3 | |||||
7 | ★ Pooh Corner | 17 | 72m, 2 | |||||
8 | ★ He Spoke Human | 24 | 32m | |||||
9 | Whodunnit | 19 | 130m, 4 | |||||
10 |
★★ Anomia
| 24 | 60m, 2, 22 | |||||
11 | ★★★ Aphasia | 24 | 28m, 12 | |||||
12 | ★ Cymbal | 20 | ||||||
13 | ★ No Beginning and No End | 19 M0 | 20m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Tularaemia
1 30m 25, 20 bolts 2 20m 24, 15 bolts FA: C Hewer & K Robinson, 2012 | 25 | 50m, 2, 35 | |||||
15 |
★★★ The Brush Tail Extension
Two pitch extension of 'Tularaemia' adds 30m of additional climbing and increases the grade. 3 15m 27, 8 bolts 4 15m 28, 8 bolts | 28 | 30m, 2, 16 | |||||
16 | ★ Firebrand | 20 | 80m | |||||
17 | F-Sharp | 18 | 100m, 3 | |||||
Battlements ColumnBattlements Column is a forward-standing column capped by three turret-like rocks that is situated in the centre of the Columns. When viewed in profile, a large slab of rock caps the detached summit tower, connecting it with the main cliff. Routes on Battlements Column are predominantly accessed using a top-down approach. | ||||||||
19 | Armchair Ethics | 23 | 35m | |||||
20 |
★★ Once in a Lifetime
경고 Fixed Gear: Loose Bolts | 26 | 55m, 18 | |||||
21 |
★★ Daedalus
Mega off-width pitch, take some big gear. | 20 | 55m | |||||
22 | ★★ Cruel But Fair | 23 | 25m | |||||
23 | Claret Corner | 16 | 110m | |||||
24 |
★★★ Icarus
Sustained on a impressive line, up higher at least... The steep crack on the S face of Upper Battlements Column. Most people rap in and climb the top 2 pitches only.
FA: C. Dewhirst & J. Ewbank | 20 | 120m, 4 | |||||
25 |
★★ Freedom
Probably the hardest route on the Pipes and a magnificent line, taking the arête and wall to the R of of Icarus. Access via a 30m abseil from rap station above the slab that caps Battlements Column, to the Middle Battlement (top of pitch 2 of Battlements). A reachy and powerful boulder problem at half-height offers some amazing moves in an outrageous position. A finger-sized cam can be handy to protect the post crux section. FA: Jake Bresnehan, 2010 | 30 | 25m | |||||
Battlements LowerBet accessed from below, from the Northern Buttress track | ||||||||
27 |
★★★ Close to the Sun
| 23 | 48m, 2, 23 | |||||
28 | ★★ Bismark | 24 | 100m, 3 | |||||
29 | Incision | 18 | 100m | |||||
30 |
★ Sirius
Clip the first two bolts on Dark Nebula, then step left and up past a few more bolts. A long traddy ramble follows (single set of cams and wires), before a thin finish past another 3 bolts to DBB. | 20 | 40m, 8 | |||||
31 |
★★ Dark Nebula
A long and sustained pitch of face climbing on good rock. One of the better sports routes at the grade in southern Tasmania. FA: R Parkyn, 12월 2016 | 21 | 32m, 17 | |||||
32 |
Ford Prefect
The left of the two short sport routes between DN and PS. FA: R Parkyn & O Gervasoni, 1월 2017 | 16 | 12m, 6 | |||||
33 |
★ Datsun Sunny
Technical and interesting climbing up the short wall left of PS. FA: O Gervasoni & R Parkyn, 1월 2017 | 17 | 14m, 8 | |||||
34 | ★ Battlements Direct | 17 | 40m | |||||
35 |
★★ Plymouth Satellite
More fine dolerite face climbing 15m right of Dark Nebula | 23 | 23m, 11 | |||||
36 | Battlements | 15 | ||||||
Split ColumnImmediately right of Battlements Column when viewed from below | ||||||||
38 | ★★ Sandy Bay Road | 18 | 35m | |||||
39 | ★★★ Holiday in Cambodia | 21 | 35m | |||||
40 | ★★ Ultrahard | 26 | 30m, 4 | |||||
41 | ★★★ Ultrasound | 23 | 35m | |||||
42 | ★★★ Split Column | 19 | 40m | |||||
43 | ★★ Soliton | 18 - 20 | 35m | |||||
44 | ★ Face What You Fear | 23 | 20m | |||||
45 | ★ Fear Inoculum | 22 | 30m | |||||
Double Column | ||||||||
47 | ★★ Strange Angels | 23 | 40m, 16 | |||||
48 |
★★ Double Column Central
The crack / chimney up the centre of the column is a varied classic adventure. FA: M Douglas & T Terry, 1967 FFA: B Kennedy & L Closs, 1970 | 17 | 77m, 4 | |||||
49 | ★★ Minds Eye | 24 | 70m, 2, 20 | |||||
50 | The Cordoban | 15 | ||||||
Cossack ColumnRight of Double Column is a wide curving stretch of wall that ends at a closely joined twin column that is 65m high. Two large wedge shaped blocks cap the summit. Routes are predominantly accessed using a top-down approach. Top-Down Access Cossack Column is located about 40m left of the patch of snow gums as viewed looking towards Hobart. The Cossack Column rap station is located here (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) and is used to access routes in the vicinity of Sky Rocket. Access for Hakea and its neighbours: just before Cossack Column (if heading towards the amphitheatre), locate a narrow gully below and build a trad anchor. It is suggested to fix a rope off this, running it down the sloping ramp to a small ledge at the top of Hakea. From here, either rap of the Hakea tree, or better from an anchor point on your fixed rope. Rap from the Hakea tree/ledge is about 45m. | ||||||||
52 |
★★ Duckling
The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse. Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately. You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it. FA: 2월 2019 | 27 R | 30m | |||||
53 |
★★★ Killer Canary
A nice line up the crack and arête just L of Where Eagles Dare Not. Probably best to approach from above to avoid the fist pitch.
FA: S. Parsons, 1982 | 22 | 50m | |||||
54 | Bad Attitude | 18 | ||||||
55 | Days of Future Past | 20 | 50m | |||||
56 |
★★★ Hakea
A steep, sustained and challenging crack that varies from a small seam to hand width, including v-grooves and a short chimney. Seeps longer than most climbs in the area. Climb the wall and thin seam to a thin corner, passing the bulge with finger jams. Continue up the thin-hands v-groove to pass another bulge at half height. Continue jamming up the second v-groove (thin seam) and short chimney above, then pull around a huge overhanging flake to a stance at the Hakea tree near the top. Either ascend your fixed rope for ~8m (recommended approach), climb awkwardly past the tree, or abseil-off the tree back to the ledge where you can abseil from bushes or down climb (grade 14) back to the base of Cossack column. The crack has been thoroughly cleaned as of Jan 2023, which should keep it tidy from moss for the coming years. | 23 | 40m | |||||
57 |
★★ Sassanach
Starts off the Hakea ledge about 3m left of Hakea. Best accessed by rapping in (~55m). Lots of wide hands and fists, with perfect knee jams, and a couple of shrubberies. | 19 | 50m | |||||
58 | The Word Was Made Flesh | 20 | ||||||
59 |
★★★ Tartarus
The crack-line up the front of Cossack Column.
FA: Ian Lewis & Kim Carrigan, 1974 | 21 | 60m, 2 | |||||
60 |
★ A Step Back
The corner and offwidth left of Tartarus. 2 pitches split at the 60s hex and tat | 19 | 55m | |||||
61 |
★★★ Sky Rocket
The prominent crack up the front of Cossack Column. One of the best routes at the Organ Pipes.
FFA: Simon Parsons, Phil Bigg & Phil Cullen, 1982 | 20 | 60m, 2 | |||||
62 |
★★★ In Flagrante Delicto
Two pitch bolted arete right of Sky Rocket. Final pitch takes a few pieces of gear.
| 24 | 50m, 2 | |||||
63 | ★ Potem Tole | 19 | 50m | |||||
64 | ★★ The Shield | 20 | 2 | |||||
65 |
Battle Axe crack
In the recess just R of Cossack Column there is a large black chimney with a large chockstone 20m up. Scramble up 12m to the base of the chimney.
FA: M. Tillema & G. Batten, 1971 | 12 | 62m, 3 | |||||
66 |
Voluntary Vomit
Old school bulimia? Follows the crack and groove lines that starts on a grassy ledge in a recess just R of Cossack Column.
FA: I. Lewis & A. Hogarth, 1974 | 17 | 75m, 3 |
1.10. Rockaway and Amphitheatre
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.894968, 147.241394
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Amphitheatre Ledge | ||||||||
2 | Afterburner | 21 | 20m | |||||
3 |
Early Bird
Rap in from two carrots (hangerless expansion bolts) at head of the amphitheatre. Goes on gear with one carrot. Two FHs for belay. | 25 | 30m | |||||
4 | Exit Entry | 7 | ||||||
5 | ★★ James's Arête | 25 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | Richard Scraper | 11 | 30m | |||||
7 | The Munt | 14 | 30m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Resurrection Shuffle
FA: Ian Lewis & Kim Carrigan, 1975 | 20 | 30m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Second Coming
Start up Resurrection Shuffle until you can traverse right to the finger crack. Tight finger jamming leads to the top. FA: J. Kennedy & S. Parsons, 1985 | 25 | 25m | |||||
10 | ★ Ethnic Cornflake | 19 | 30m | |||||
11 | ★★ Bella Donna | 21 | 30m | |||||
12 | Bob Gnarly And The Nailers | M5 | 25m | |||||
13 | Beast | 20 | 25m | |||||
14 | ★★ Galah Performance | 20 | 20m | |||||
15 | Reds Route | 8 | 30m | |||||
Rockaway Gully | ||||||||
17 | ★★★ Punk | 19 | 25m | |||||
18 |
★ Fall Out
The awkward face and crack facing Albert's Tomb. FA: G. Phillips | 24 | 15m | |||||
19 | Albert's Tomb | not graded | ||||||
20 |
★★★ Priapism
Climbs the arête left of Slap Dancer. Reach dependant compression moves to barn door hell. Brilliant! FA: G. Phillips & Mar 2011, 2011 | 29 | 10m, 6 | |||||
21 |
★★★ Slap Dancer
Some of the best moves on the pipes. The two north facing arêtes of Albert's Tomb. Tricky mantle to fridge hugging finish. FA: S. Edwards, 1997 | 27 | 10m, 5 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Completion Backwards Principle | 26 | 27m | |||||
23 |
★ The Fifth Elephant
The bolted blunt arête starting just right of Completion Backwards Principle. Wanders back and forth via. 3 distinct boulder problems. Possibly 28. FA: A. Williams, 2001 | 27 | 25m |
1.11. Northern Buttress
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.894790, 147.241728
설명
The first major buttress at the right hand end of the organ pipes
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Darkside | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Side Saddling Cheescake
Great series of sustained moves up the short bolted arete to DBB. | 23 | 12m, 5 | |||||
3 | Jackson's Apprentices | 24 | ||||||
4 |
★ Skyline Minor
FA: J Peterson & D Webber, 1958 | 9 | 120m | |||||
5 | Pelf | 18 | 12m | |||||
6 | ★ Pommy Slide | 20 | 15m | |||||
7 | Bollard Chimney | 15 | 12m | |||||
8 | Sorrow | 23 | ||||||
9 | Great Pets | 23 | 18m | |||||
10 |
★ Skyline Major
FA: lots | 16 | 90m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||||
12 |
★★ Raspberry Jam and Crackers
Face climbing. Start: wall L of Andromeda FA: Body, Kennedy & Closs, 1972 | 18 | 25m | |||||
13 | ★★ Frostbite's for Wusses | 20 R | 25m | |||||
14 |
★ Andromeda
Old fashioned chimney right of RJ&C. FA: T Christie & G Wyatt, 1965 FFA: R Williams, 1967 | 14 | 24m | |||||
15 | ★★ Discipline | 20 | 32m | |||||
16 |
★★ All Systems Go
The wall left of the Pulpit. Climb up the crack on L of Pulpit for 3m them move L and straight up wall to small roof. Turn roof on R continue up crack to ledge then follow the hand crack to bolted belay at 32m. Originally continued up Skyline Minor but most people rap off here. Be careful rapping off on 60m rope! FA: Muhlen & B Kennedy | 18 | 32m | |||||
17 |
★ Reluctance
From the top of the Pulpit, continue straight up to gain finger crack. Up then left to finish at chains as for All Systems Go. FA: N Deka & J Richardson, 1980 | 20 | 36m | |||||
18 |
★ The Pulpit
FA: FA Unknown | 13 | 50m | |||||
19 |
★★ Pulpit Chimney
The obvious chimney. Most people belay on spacious ledge above the huge chockstone. | 12 | 60m, 2 | |||||
20 | Pulpit Crack | 20 | 60m, 2 | |||||
21 |
★★ Tearaway
On of best pitches of 18 on the Mountain, following the arete to the right of Pulpit Chimney.
| 18 | 55m, 2 | |||||
22 |
★★ Subterfuge
Start at thin crack between Pulpit Chimney and Pegasus | 20 | 55m | |||||
23 |
★★ Conflict In The Cabal
Spicy. Start as per Subterfuge, but continue directly up the face without straying into Pegasus or the arete on the left. | 20 | 50m | |||||
24 |
★★ Pegasus
A quality route on steep, clean rock (original 2 pitches). Start 4m to the R of Pulpit Chimney at a squeeze chimney with two chockstones. Follow the chimney directly and climb to the top of the huge detached flake, (Belay possible) Climb the short crack to a ledge (possible to traverse L to join Skyline Minor (11)) continue directly up the steep crack to belay just short of the Buttress Pinnacle. | 14 | 48m | |||||
25 | ★ Xanthos | 19 | 48m | |||||
26 |
★★★ Centaur
Thin crack through hand sizes and off width near top. Wires useful in first half. Belay and Abseil Point 45m from ground. FA: R Cross & Lawson, 1965 FA: Ewbanks & Kennedy, 1968 | 17 | 48m | |||||
27 | ★ Adventure before Dementia | 19 | 18m | |||||
28 |
★★ Sideshow
Short finger crack on the left wall of the Chasm, climbs up to DBB FA: D.Fife, A.Adams & Phil Steane | 18 | 12m | |||||
29 | ★★★ Crasm Chack | 20 | 30m | |||||
30 | ★ The Chasm | 11 | 48m | |||||
31 |
★★★ Mira Mira
The line of bolts on the R side of the chasm. Brilliant steep bouldery moves lead to easier arete climbing before joining Vanity. All bolts apart from an optional 0.3 cam on the face traverse of Vanity at mid height. FA: N. Perndt, 2013 | 28 | 35m | |||||
32 | The Labyrinth | 9 | 56m, 6 | |||||
33 | Project 1 - Simon Young | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
34 |
★★ Vanity
Starting on the right side of the chasm, follow seams (wires) to bolts on face. Traverse right into (somewhat concerning) undercling flake after clipping the 3rd bolt, then blast up the right arete past 3 more bolts to the top. | 25 | 35m, 6 | |||||
35 | ★ Excellence | 22 | 35m | |||||
36 | Little Chasm Buttress | 10 | 22m | |||||
37 | ★★ Boys Games | 22 | 30m, 9 | |||||
38 |
★ Game On
Intricate route finding up the next pillar right of Boy's Games to DBB (shared with Climbing Edge Memorial Climb). A difficult onsight. | 21 | 28m, 10 | |||||
39 |
★ Pension Day
FA: S. Scott & T. McKenny, 2월 2016 | 20 | 20m, 9 | |||||
40 | Plomat | 16 | 40m | |||||
41 |
★ Climbing Edge Memorial Climb
Mixed Route | 22 | 36m, 2 | |||||
42 |
★★ Osteomen
The arête right of CEMC. The first section can be climbed on either side of the arête, leading to a good rest before the steep finish. The crux is passing the last bolt. FA: D. Stephenson, S. Scott & T. McKenny, 5월 2018 | 23 | 20m, 10 | |||||
Climbs from the Notch | ||||||||
44 | ★★ Sentinel Ridge | 14 | 70m | |||||
45 |
★★ Yugi Crack
Climb the super thin crack, passing a small overlap at the bottom. No loweroffs so take a biner for the last bolt if there's not one already there. | 26 | 18m | |||||
Upper Cliff | ||||||||
47 | ★★★ Cascade Crack | 25 | 27m | |||||
48 | Kakapo Corner | 21 |
1.12. Far North
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.894472, 147.241725
설명
An isolated 40 ft. tower to the north of the 'Northern Buttress'. A faint trail heads right from near the Chasm and runs around the 'Lost World' and uphill to the "Knob". There are 2 or 3 ways to the top. Descent by abseil.
First climbed Sept. '61.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Toy Town | ||||||||
2 | ★ War toy | 21 | 10m | |||||
3 | Childs play | 20 | 10m | |||||
4 | ★★ Nancy boys | 21 | 10m | |||||
5 | Boys toy | 20 | 8m | |||||
6 | ★★ Virgin Boys | 18 | 11m | |||||
Johnston's Knob Area | ||||||||
8 | ★ Shelter from the Storm | 17 | 20m | |||||
9 | ★ Pipedream | 16 | 15m | |||||
10 |
★ Sergeant Slaughter
Great climb on a large block with ringbolts visible from Johnstone's Knob. 4 BRs plus rap station. G. Phillips, Oct. 1995. | 21 | 12m, 4 | |||||
11 |
★★ Great Red Pointer
Great sport climbing on the Hobart side of Johnstones Knob involving both aretes and passing a knife blade to a ledge with rap anchor. Protected by 3 carrots. | 19 | 12m, 3 | |||||
12 |
Johnstone's Knob
The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station. Unknown, Sept. 1961. | 12 | 12m | |||||
DNA Land | ||||||||
14 | Pancakes | 12 | 8m | |||||
15 | Simple Minds | 8 | 8m | |||||
16 | Rheumatism | 17 | 10m | |||||
17 | ★★ Gear Freak | 16 | 10m | |||||
18 | ★★ D.N.A. | 16 | 10m | |||||
19 | Adolescent Drifters | 14 | 15m |