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Nympho Buttress
Some of the absolute best rock on Maroon is found here. A band of Trachyte mixed in with the Ryholite. |
22
Clap Trap
Start: The square dot furtherest left at the crag. Easy start (gear up the crack) and easy finish (no gear), with a dynamic crux in the middle, passing 2 FHs & a bolt (shared with IHAIP), to chains on tree above. |
21
I'll Huff And I'll Puff
Start: The square dot 1m R of the above climb. Nice sustained face climb, on good rock. Up passing 4 bolts, then shares 5th bolt with CT. No gear. |
20
Modern Inconveniences
Good for a warm up. Start: At the dot below the crack, around the arête from IHAIP. Up easy pillar and into tricky corner with thoughtful protection. Left through roof & up R of the belay tree (CT & IHAIP), then into nice finger crack with good gear. Chains on tree. Needs a cool head down low. |
21
Oberon Is Watching
Start: At the dot 1m R of GC. Excellent climbing, easier than it looks. Rap chains at top. |
25
Dog's Spew
Start: The dot in the shallow L facing corner a few metres R of OIW. Up the very blank L trending corner to the top of the pillar. The name says it all. Rap chains at top. |
23
All Hands On Dick
Start: The dot on the small pillar a few metres R of DS. Up L trending easy face/crack & into corner, onto sharp arête & follow FHs up the face. |
22
A Return From Exile
Start: The dot just R of the small All Hands On Dick pillar. An acrobatic little number. Up the crack line (gear) to the first bolt 7-8m up, then up passing 2 more BRs, (don’t despair at the overhang, but locate the hidden pocket), then 5 FHs to chains at top. Shares chains with UFG. |
21
Up For Grabs
Start: just Right of ARFE - the middle dot (in the alcove). Fairly easy for the grade; two hard moves. Up trending R following the flakes & cracks into the cave. One BR, the rest is trad. Shares chains with ARFE. |
14 M3
Dead End
Start: Below cave. RURP November 1969 |
15 M3
Deep Purple
Start: beneath cave. RURP November 1969 |
17
★ The Nympho P1
Start below cave – the RH dot in the alcove below the FH. Up on good flakes & gear to the pillar, up to the FH, then bold moves above the FH (no more gear) thru the overhang & into the cave. Belay chains on left. |
24
★★ The Nympho
One of Australia’s classic climbs, but only for the chosen few.
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25
The Nympho - Direct Pitch 2
NB: gear runs out & potential for ground fall till next gear is reached in the upper flake. |
18 M4
Climax
"Start: The white line in the buttress. Start Right of Deep Purple.
"Superb climbing and positions - the best on the buttress." RURP July/August 1972 (unfortunately neither Ron nor Tony can recall exactly where the route exited the cave or went from there.) |
17 M4
Erotica
Quoted from RURP:
"Good mixed climbing up a fine line." RURP July/August 1972 (Ron cannot recall the details of this route, but I would suggest that it is Right of the cave.) |
25
A Trick Of The Light
Start: Faint dot on the rock a few metres R of the above alcove.
Rap chains at top. |
25
unknown
Start: A Trick Of The Light.
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21
Spanish Dancer
Start: The painted dot a few metres right of ATOTL. The quality of the rock leaves something to be desired in places, but the climb well and truly makes up for it. Can be done easily in 2 Pitches, 1st chain on P1 is for raping down; second chains are much more comfortable for belaying.
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22
Hidden Agenda
Start: At the dot (marked HA & BE) below the shallow cave – a few metres R of SD.
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22
The Bitter End
Start: As for Hidden Agenda. Up the crack below the cave, up to a bulge, and onto the arête, passing the cave. Short traverse right onto the bulge and up a hard layback. Follow the crack and face to top. |
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