등정들 Central Western Slope and Plains에서 Onsight로서

Absolute classic!

Followed the original route description with no issues. Hell of a day out!

Managed to not make it an epic, as a party of 5. We climbed in 2 + 3, worked well, enough room on the belay stances in general. We were overtaken by a party of 2, no issue with a bit of considered rope use. Walked out from Balor hut at 6am, started climbing at 7.30 (in the dark hard to stay on the track up and left after crossing the creek (find the cairns at the crossing), we ended up 30 meters below Cornerstone and had to scramble up, despite a reccie the night before). Topped at 15.30pm had a break and lunch. The descent very doable (it was dry), first a short abseil and a little scramble down the green track. Another short abseil (one bolt with homemade plate). Then a long walk/scramble down more green goodness to last tree (two jerricans of water there, one empty, the other broken but filled with disgusting looking water). From there down climb/walk/all fours to double bolt and chain anchor above waterfall (would hate to that part in the dark when wet). Instructions clear enough to make it with care to the last abseil (double bolt/chain) great views at last of the sun, and down to ledge. Walked off and found the track down just in the last light, walk out to the saddle and balor hut easy to find and fast.

Good addition to the bungles . Approx 30m of new climbing. The finger crack is great. The adventure begins on the approach.

Prometheus is Bound no more - we freed that motherfucker!!!!!! Holy dooooley this was a coming of age climb. My most gnarly to date.

18 hour mission - left camp at 8am, back at 2am. Type 1,2,3 fun, all in a day - 30 degs and sun does that. Only 2L water each, big L (defs sun stroke vibes). 2 parties of 2 but we sorta shared gear so ended up being kinda a 4.

I swung leads with Sam (side note - STOKED I got to send this together with him, my first climbing friend in Sydney, and before he leaves for the other side of the world!) and we went well. Couple of linked pitches meant I had the gnarly traverse pitch 6 that is not for the faint of heart. Haz lead Ashton and went a high line, which the guide specifically warns against, so Sam and I decided on a lower line. I was going well, foot jugs and pro for 7-8m around the corner then my line turned a pro-less 18 with thin holds and fuck that - talk about the fear of god! Back climbed, went up and followed Haz's line which was dece. Next pitch was night fall and on run out choss blocks so I shat brix, but yelled the loudest I ever have on a climb (and thats saying something) when I got round the arete to solid rock and placed a bomber cam and nut. I don't know what that feeling was. Rest was smooth up, beautiful, serene gratitude for it all.

The descent was on brand for the day. couldn't find the rap to save our lives (lol eventually did), but made the rap longer and harder for ourselves and bashed back to camp. The relief, accomplishment, commeradarie, stoke, fatigue, confusion and elation was all evident. I don't even know but in love with the story.

I FUCKING LOVE THE BUNGLES.

CHEERS FELLAS THAT WAS ANYTHIN!!!!!

Super sick! was the first climb of Easter Bungles' 24, on the arvo of arrival. Ran up with Haz. Boys back together. Did an extra pitch on the approach pretty much as we were bashing/scrambling up and that was harder than solo'ing the first 3 pitches of the rib. rock broke onto my leg and was a bit scratched up, but the rest of the day was sensational. Beaut climbing and were side by side with the rest of the crew going up cornerstone rib - fun day out for all!

An interesting day where we started with 5 and ended the day with 3 (no one fell off! 2 members bailed at the top of pitch III). We started at around 8am and returned at 11pm for a 15 hour day.

Initially this was climbed as 2 parties of 2 and 3. Marlee and Erika were the first party. I was with Anna and Jessie. We did not climb the pitches as numbered here. I will number the 'official' pitches in Roman and our pitches in Arabic numerals.

Excellent climbing. Loved the exposure on pitch IV! I would argue the climb is sandbagged because the move on pitch IV is harder than 14. Perhaps a grade 15/16 move? The rock quality on much of the route, especially the final 2 pitches is somewhat dubious, but good quality placements can be found with a little investigating.

Anna led the first 2 pitches (combined pitch I/II/III).

Marlee then made an attempt at pitch IV, but was a little spooked by the moves off a directional nut she placed and retreated. I then had to catch up so the full party was on the belay ledge. I led pitch IV (as pitch 3) while Erika and Jessie elected to bail due to anticipated time constraints. This later proved wise.

Rope drag was substantial on pitch 3 and 4, but otherwise uneventful. Anna led pitch 5 (combined pitches VI/VII) and earned the glory of summitting first.

Descent down the Green Glacier was confusing. Our beta is as follows.

1. Descend the gully until you find the rap chains.

2. Abseil off the chains for around 35m until the terrain eases off.

3. Walk down the Green Glacier for a while, navigating some steep bits.

4. Once the greenery ends, you should keep walking until you end up on a ledge with rap chains on the left side (facing out). This is beyond the tree with chains and containers of radioactive water attached.

5. Rap down to another ledge, follow the track into the trees on the right (facing out), initially down then up briefly until you see a cairn on a rocky outcrop. There should be some chains there.

6. Rap down to the ground ~50m.

A brutal introduction to the Bungles. The approach and descent were arguably much harder than any of the climbing!

I completed this climb in 2 long pitches. Rope drag was noticeable but not the worst I've experienced.

Descent down the abseil gully in the dark was difficult. And finding the "easy descent" after the second abseil was very difficult, with numerous false starts. The descent after the second abseil is to the left (facing the wall) and you should re-emerge on the ledge that you start Endeavour Face/Vertigo on. We ended up leaving some tat on a tree to safely lower ourselves, which was then returned to us a couple of days later by our new friends at camp who smartly climbed and returned during the day!

had a great time on this with Khush, both got a few leads, something different to doing Cornerstone for a 3rd time!! some cool moves, good gear and topped at a similar time to the party on Cornerstone, had chats on the way up. down in the dark but at like 9pm ish.

what an absolute MISSION this climb was. ever since seeing Dyl and Lee on it, the same time last year, we knew we had to Do it. it just looks at you when walking up from the carpark, its a must do for anyone brave enough. with Khush And Sam in the other pair, the 4 of us set off around 8am for the mega line climb of the weekend, with the hot sun coming up, it was going to be a long day. bashed around and finally found the start about 1030 I think. as Ashton wasn't leading I had to do every pitch, which was a struggle after a while, but well worth the push on. i was in front so some of the pitches I left gear in the climb for the others to lead on, which helped them, but made us all quiet slw together. first 4 or 5 were pretty good with the pitch 6 traverse being super exposed, I was told I took the line to high but except for the heinous drag, ended quite well. after that I think I did part of Pegesus, some sick corner finger crack, that Ashton really struggled on, but everything else was cruizy. until we got to the top in the dark and didn't remember where the rap was, took quite a while to figure out it was on the other summit. and then 1 hour turned to 2, then 4, then we were at camp at 2am. soo when you're out of water for 4 hours and not thinking too clearly, time just goes on. but all went physically well, and we got up the next day for another one!!

pretty good, Jordan got on his first lead for a while, then I finished the rest in a 55m and 15m pitch. after the epic the day before, getting off was super easy, and got back to camp at like 4pm.

Nice one👍

So stoked to tick this climb after first seeing this line on a bushwalking trip almost 3 years ago. We decided to rack up at the hut and departed at 7:15 with 2x sets of wires, cams 0.3-3 with doubles 0.3-2, some hexes and 16 alpine draws. We lost the track a bit when crossing the side creek as we were too far from the confluence but were at the base by 8:15 and climbing as a party of 3 by 8:30. Pitches 1-3 were combined into two pitches with minimal gear placed putting us ahead of schedule. P4 was the one to remember, traversing out onto the face to gain all that exposure, putting in some gear and trying to follow the path of least resistance up was a highlight. Michael bravely look the lead at P6 after lugging the backpack up the 1st 5 pitches for a 2:30pm top out. Leisurely lunch on the summit with the skinks and chatted to a hiker on the return to the hut for a 10.5hr day total. The descent took longer than expected however it was not helped by me tossing 100m of rope off the 1st 10m down climb/rap into a big tangle in the bushes below. The radios were very useful and our 2L of water per person was adequate.

(essay incoming)

Given the infamous record of epics and bails on this route, we debated whether to attempt this climb for a solid few hours in front of the fire at Balor Hut. Deciding it was sure to be an adventure and we were both happy to bail if it got dicey, we gave it a shot. Whilst we did manage to find our way up the Buttress without significant incident, I’m not sure whether it was really worth it! If you’re reading this and debating whether to climb it, maybe just go do something else and hike up Bluff Mountain if you also really want to make an ascent and (like us) aren’t strong enough for Phoenix.

We did it in 8 pitches, plus a long scramble to the top. P1 - short up the slab, should have pushed left more but the pro was rubbish P2 - also quite short, traversing left through a gnarly overhang, which we probably should have gone below on P1 instead. Okay pro but the climbing was much more difficult than 13, and genuinely wrecked me P3/4 - moving further left, finally locating the buttress and feeling like we were approximately on route. P5-8 - up the buttress, stuck to the left side of the nose. Sections of relatively nice climbing interspersed with fighting through vegetation. Lots of semi-detached rock, some of which is very loose and some of which seemed okay.

We took 1hr 15 mins approach from Balor Hut (including some route finding), 7hr 30 mins climbing, 30 mins at the summit, then 1hr 45 mins down to Pincham trailhead picking up packs from the hut en route. 11hr day all up.

Honestly this was an amazing adventure, completely lives up to the hype! It’s a great line, awesome position with nice climbing the whole way and solid pro.

Very cool descent through the Canyon too, although worth noting that the last abseil with a 70m rope only gets you to a small ledge approx 3m above the large one, requiring a largely safe but still exposed down climb

From Balor Hut, we had a 1hr approach (including some route finding), 5hr climbing, 45 mins at the summit, 2hr descent and 45 mins return for a 9.5hr day.