루트들 New South Wales and ACT에서

Bulges

Same than "Impossible Mission", super rusty bolts and always wet.

Sit start just left of Slaptopussy (Right hand in the good pocket, Left hand on crimp) and layback the steep groove up the left side of the little pillar. Shares some holds with Slaptopussy.

The nearest climb you can do to the now banned Three Sisters! (They are only 20m away).

Rack: 4 bolt plates, wires and cams (max #3 Camelot size)

Approach: walk down tourist track to bridge going across to the Three Sisters (Honeymoon Bridge). Scramble down to under this bridge and head down very steep vegetated gully towards Scenic World. There isn't much sign of a track and lots of rubbish from tourists. About 50m down the gully is a vegetated ledge system. Orange Slice is 10m right (facing out) of the approach gully.

1. 25m 15. Black slab for 5m to base of leftward curving orange corner. Up this on nice waterpolished rock to comfy ledge and double BR belay. Back it up with good cams and wires.

2. 20m 16. Fused corner with little arete on the right side. At top of corner mantle up to ledge on left. 1 BR and bad piton for belay. Backup with #2 cam and high small wire.

3. 30m 16 Ignore bolts above (that's the direct) - and instead traverse right steeply along break and up black wall (not well protected) past hard to spot old bolts. Scramble up through small bushes to good tree belay well back. Say hi to many gawking tourists. When they ask if you are abseiling- tell them no, you are kayaking. That should shut them up.

King Line up the arete; start hugging the bottom and slap your way to victory.

Thin hands and laybacking with bomber gear until the crack runs out. Find the key small gear and say your prayers. If the small cam comes sailing down the wall the belayer will know to leave the mine before the disaster.

Highball face

Marked start. Good climbing throughout (especially up the arete up high), but with a low crux with tricky protection.

startring flat hold into pocket and top

Up the overhanging V groove

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Start as for My Red Slug. Natural pro. Leftward up wall to top.

Start on little undercling and the flake corner. Go Left and up.

An adventure sport route, good luck.

Starts up the toilet bowl, traverse and up the existing line past some slopers to a spicy finish. Needs another bolt as lower offs. Originally bolted by Nick Wagland.

Open Project. Start left hand in the slot crimp, right in the sloppy gaston. Body tension and terrible feet up to get to the four finger pocket then desperate moves to the top. Humidity can make this almost feel impossible.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth An old crack climb. Natural protection. Up the cracks past the old bolt marks.

Start at shallow crack. Up to ledge (bolt will be added to protect start) cams in pockets the up the arête. Thought provoking at the grade but a decent trad lead. DBB on top.

This is the left side of the arete climbed by the hot dog routes. Five meters right of High on Crack at the common start. Up and right heading over to the arete. Follow the arete up sometimes using holds on the left side and sometimes on the right, to clip the common anchors with the line to the left.

Direct version of Rindless sit starting matched on the crimprail, fraction more morpho than original.

Pleasant short slabby wall. Needs a clean.

A series of rails inside the gable roof

A famous chimney slot problem - originally done on trad (at grade 20) and now retrobolted. Up ramp to base of chimney (optional belay). Squeeze upwards and be thankful it is no longer graded 17!

Start at a sandy flake left of the cave.

Starting a few metres to the right of Analysis Paralysis. Sit start with hands on the lowest holds (A left hand rail and right hand crimp) Bust up to a block side pull and a slopey right hand crimp and make your way up and right to mantle and slab top out The 'stand start' from the block side pull and slopey crimp, probably goes at about 6

From the crescent bloc gain the main bloc (sans side corner bloc) to finish as for East Arete.

As the name says. Start 1m right of Cadabra Eyes.

Behind the cave is a vertical thin crack

Use the arete as a left hander and a hand jam on the right keeping mostly to the right of the arete

Up the left side of the slab.

Head up L side of hanging block to flake up L side of block to bolt belay. (BR's & SLCD's)

Start: Several metres L of a broken corner with a large stump and a fallen tree, about 20m R of stump hole.

http://www.jottie.com.au/bouldering/McIntyre-050805/IMG_0949_copy.html

Find the glued on hold next to campus top out and follow chalk to the top.

Sit start from left ground bloc only.

A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the new U bolt anchors.

Traverse from the corner arête to Veronica.

Up rail. Needs more cleaning

Warning! Fragile flake! Up the right thin arete of the wide crack. I'm putting this route up here as it's the most obvious line but it's not safe to climb. I removed a loose block behind the thin high flake but the remaining thin flake isn't particularly solid. An easy climb but you might end up like season 2 Tasha Yar if you climb it.

Hex bolts from platform on north facing wall, just to right of easy corner. Double carrots at top and bottom. Access by jumping across the water, using a plank to cross, or abseiling in.

A good first section if a little hard to find. The climb starts 3m left of Satan Sorrow. Climb up the crack in the corner to the ledge, good pro all the way. Up the chimney to top out

Sit start on low crimps, up over the bulge. Previously named on theCrag as 'cool pocket'.

On the back side of the Trigrams cluster. Even less fun than the name suggests. Stand start, sitter awaits someone bored.

Hard, use the tiny two finger nubbin, huck for the top.

Start with both hands on the big sidepull. use tiny edge to stand and then straight up.

5m R of the warty tree. Up to first BR at the patch of white lichen. Traverse R and up to second BR. Up to FH and crux. Clip fourth BR and you're there. Chain belay.

Up slab to the juggy crack up high, anchors at top

2 bolts up the slab and to the base of crack and then up the obvious crack, back right to lower offs.

The first of the three main cracks on this compact little wall. A stiff little lay back crack with not many snails.

(1) Up the stiff little layback crack taking care not to doom to many little blue snails to their deaths when they try to attack you.

A current project by Josh up right side of cave. 3 bolts + DBB

Good climbing on good rock. Start: Obvious corner out of Nest.

1. 8m Crack and corner.

2. 17m Straight up.

Up the right and traverse just below the top to finish at Moorish Idols

The rightward diagonal leading to a slabby open book corner on awesome rock up high. Start 10m right of Panache.

The second corner left of waterfall

Sit start left arete and right crimp. Up and right to finish as for scarab

Stand/crouch far left of Western face/wall left foot on low shelf and left hand on juggy sidepull moving right to traverse the lip and top out via mantle into and up the juggy groove just left of the headstone.

Follow corner to small roof then go left following obvious flake, up past horizontal (#3 or #4 cam), step slightly left and follow seam to top. Good pro. Trad anchor needed for belay.

Start about 1.5 metres right of Annette (Pox Free). Straight up to bolt above horizontal break and continue straight to top. No devious leftwards steps onto the resting ledge allowed. Protected by an ethical bolt. This is a bolt that you can slide out if it offends and slide it back in if you want to live a lot longer.

A bit of a grunt.

1. 40m Crack/chimney between wall and left side of protruding buttress.

Sitstart with RH through the big eye

Great warm-up and also suitable for top-roping as it's only vertical - unlike everything else at this crag. Far right route up orange streak, with a flake in the middle. Scramble in to belay ledge from the left end.

Contrived technical sit start to Razoback starting left hand edge, right hand shark tooth.

Sit variant to Cames Jameron. Hasn't been done, hasn't been tried. Sit start on the good low crack-y holds on the left side. Big RH move to the start of Cames Jameron. Top out as normal.

Traverse left to right along the underhang.

Subtle moves past a small pocket to slopers then easy up to lower off on small headwall.

Sit start on the LHS, left hand good edge, right hand crimp. Top out on jugs.

Sit start on the "mille-feuille"-like rock to the big sheet before the top out.

Sit start on the left on the flat ledge. Move right and out the roof via some good holds to finish on the jug rail.

Start on crimps, move up and left, move right along overhung arete, mantle the left hand side of the overhang.

The first route to be bolted on this section of wall. Heads left after the 4th bolt and then up to a bouldery crux on the lip of the roof to gain the high corner/arete.

Starts where boulder seat is close to wall. Many sidepulls.

Sit start and mantle the smaller right of the two Eastern facing blocs of The Prophets standing hands free before exiting left.

From the small pocket jug to the V shaped jug ridge. Dyno?

Wowsers! All time mega classic. Start as per Aristocat, boulder its main crux and then head into a mind boggling amount of sustained climbing, culminating with a potentially heart breaking finish. Absolute stonker! Stu Monique Jorge flash

Another fun, easy kiddy route.