루트들 New South Wales and ACT에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Abseil down to double bolt belay. Pre or stick clip 1st bolt. Follow the arete the whole way up

Hard start (dyno from cairn) into more dynamic climbing. 25M1 if clipping and pulling to first bolt.

Up chimney to ledge. Pull onto beautiful blank wall & boulder your way up the thin cryptic crack to the top.

First ascent was in commemoration to Yanick Jean-legros & Andrew Abel - both loosing there lives in the mountains

"This is the way the world ends, not with a bang but a whimper" (T. S. Elliot's The Hollow Men). Fantastic hard climbing. Big moves or big whippers! Stick clip the high first bolt and climb the awesome seam past another 7 or so fixed hangers. Bring trad for between the first two bolts (#0.4-#0.75 cams, small wires). Continue past the lower offs and top the cliff for full value - hopefully the anchor will be moved up next rebolt.

This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear.

Starts behind pillar up at the back left. Climb Sloth Roof but keep going past the anchor for another 10 meters of mind blowing journey through a ceiling with tufa looking ironstone features. Ends a the opposite wall when your feet land onto a ledge after just another incredible 180 deg feet first cut loose.

Start 6m left of Eternity.

Easiest access is to rap down Date with Density and walk 100m west along the base to the start. Or, rap 2/3rds the way down Slipstream to the big ledge/scree slope, then walk 30m to the left (looking out) on slopey ledge to DUB at top of arete. 30m rap to DUB then 35m rap to ground. U-Bolts and gear.

1. 33m (23) Up left-facing corner (large wires, cams up to hand-size) for 15m past bushes. Hand traverse L along ledge to u-bolt, then diagonally left to arete and up to DUB. 7 u-bolts and gear.

2. 30m (27) Up stunning arete. 8 U-bolts. If you rapped the line put a 1m sling on the 2nd bolt when rapping the route so you can get out if you can't pull the moves. Or bring a stick up to the ledge, or just rap off and escape up Slipstream.

Headpointing comes to the mountains. First ascent was done using toprope rehearsal in order to clean and find the line. A ground-up ascent is possible just committing.

Start on arete at base off steep gully and at the beginning of the left leading diagonal break.

Obvious finger crack, rap rings over the lip.

The outrageous roof crack so steep you climb downwards.

Start: Traverse in from the left or climb 'Foreplay' then reset anchor at the back of the roof.

Through offwidth crack which slowly tapers all the way down to nothing before opening up again and then up the headwall.

Orsum Rock And Nice Gear Everywhere - Just Ask Mikl (O.R.A.N.G.E. J.A.M.)

The awesome crack 5m R of the start of Slipstream. Can be done in one pitch but be careful with rope length. This nook is surprisingly hot on sunny mornings; e.g. if the Boyce maximum is 7C with 30-50km/h W-SW wind, you will be too hot here in the sun. The route goes into shade about 1pm.

1. 20m 27 The crack, to DRB. Lots of thin gear, some is not easy to place on lead.

2. 37m 19, dirtier but easier. 1 FH. U-bolts and carrots at back of ledge for belay.

Walk 20m L and finish up pitches 3-5 of Slipstream.

climb blankness R of Tilt. Clip Ubolt on ledge before lurching out into space. Rebolted 2018.

8m consistent overhang in 17m of height. Very well protected finger crack topping out the cliff. Very clean. Only one jug after the low first crux, then pumpfest on fingerlocks, then a last crux pinching the dyke to pumpy easier few metres. Top out past DRB anchor. Shady in summer, sunny in winter.

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A mega line linking improbable features up much steepness, and a contender for one of the best at the grade in the Blueys. Partially equipped by Emil, and finished years later by Paul.

Climb The Thin Line of Reprieve on gear (#6/Wires, 0.3, 2, & 3) to first rooflet and hard to clip bolt. Then bust out a rising traverse left with wild, gymnastic moves, before continuing more directly up steep prow to no hands rest. From the rest, dyno for all you're worth, then power through sustained steep climbing for 20m to the belay.

1. 12m (25)

2. 25m (27)

3. 20m (27)

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1x #0.4 (x2 if linking P1 and P2), #0.75, #1, #4.

1. 30m (27) - 7 Bolts and a #0.4 Cam (to protect the final move to the anchor).

2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.75 and #1 Cam to anchor.

3. 25m (21) - 5 Bolts to anchor.

Middle crack - turn the lip then to top, mantle to finish.

1. 25m (27) Up Boyzone corner for 10m then step left (BR). Through roof to flake (BR) then up to break. Move right and up to roof (BR), then launch out big roof to BR on lip. Continue up to belay on BRs on B P2.

2. 20m (27) Over rooves and up (BRs and a large cam) to belay on ledge as for B P3.

3. 30m As for B P4.

20m right of FA at brown slime. Blast straight up the wall (BRs and small to mid size cams) to belay as for B P2. Rap off, or finish up B.

One of the more varied bits of climbing around. Start up "beat up and thrown out" then follow the steel out right, pumpy and powerful to the top

bring one plate for the glue in carrot or improvise

Single 40m pitch overhanging ~12m, half on gear and half on bolts, starting from trad belay (BD #1 and #2) 6m left of the start of Two Nobodies.

Up flake feature past 5 bolts. Hard moves off #0.75/#1 cams, then 3 more bolts of punchy climbing to #1, #0.4 and #4 cams to major horizontal. 2 more bolts leads to the upper crux, rising traverse left across a weird hanging feature (avoid trending right into death choss). #2/#3 cams in break below the final roof, then punch out the roof and overhanging prow on amazing pocket jugs, protected by #0.3 and #0.5 cams, leading to final mantle and anchor.

Can escape the crag from here via P3 (22) of Two Nobodies.

Gear: BD #0.3 to #4, with doubles of #0.75, #1 and #2.

A proper long and overhanging monster. The money pitch is 65m long, and overhangs more than 20m!!! Surely there isn't much like that in the Blueys at the grade? Suffice to say, you will get pumped.

Rock quality is Bell-esque, so adjust stars accordingly.

1. 65m (27) - Intimidating! 11 bolts to join Gaze a Gazely stare just above the roof, then continue upwards forever. Strategic long/giant runners, and roller biners essential ! See Gaze for necessary rack for this pitch.

2. 10m (20) - 1 Bolt, to #0.4 and bolt belay.

Outrageous climbing on a 36º angle!! Bomber gear that is easy to place, with a few sections of committing climbing. Be aware of the big ledge !!! DBB.

1. 30m Start up CL for half a dozen bolts or so before drifting left into Excelsior at about 3/4 height. Some small cams for the crack or very runout to DRBB.

2. 23m (27) Bronco style up arete and through roof to join Bareback.

In welsh means "sloping lands", and is the name of a local river. funnily enough originates from Gwynedd where i was last working. Basically, poorly protected first moves gets you to a piton, then the crux.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638935338/

Thin and powerful. 6 rings and #3 Friend. Lower off last bolt.

Not including unclimbed projects, this is the hardest climb in Nerriga.

A link of Chaos Roof and Where Iron Crosses Grow. Start as for Chaos Roof. Up past the first few bolts to the roof and instead of pulling the roof move, step L and up into the roof of WICG.

Ben says it is hyperclassic. One look will make you think otherwise. The worst route in the area? The rock in the top half is terrible. Start about 60m right of the 'Junket Pumper' terrace. Walk along the path - not through the bush.

Start up Mummy's Old Carrots, clip the anchor and climb past the fixed nut into the crack below the roof. Follow this all the way until it fizzles out past multiple blobs of old coach screw. Back jump (consider re-aiding if too tired) to clean. Whispers amongst the local trees suggest that back in the day this was in the realm of 28/29 but someone local and wise may have some more solid information on this (as well as the real name and FA).

The deceptive and desperate face right of 'Moonsong' with four bolts. The crux is at the top; move left to trad belay.

Mind blowing line along the lip of a huge cave going from the bottom right to the top left. 15m of increasingly steep hand to wide hand/fist crack. Then 25m ceiling with a variety of fist/offwidth/jugs/chimney, ends where the ceiling crack meets the other side of the cave. No topout, backclean. If you stop at 15m just before the crack opens up and steepens to 80deg overhanging you can call it Disbelief (24)

Very well protected all the way. Steep section C4 1x#0.75, 1x#1, 2x#2, 3x#3 Ceiling section 8x#4, 2x#5, 1x#6

The whole crack is protected from rain and sun but will start seeping after several days of proper downpour.

Excellent finger crack to DBB at top of cliff. Mostly finger-sized gear, but some big cams (#4+) are essential to protect the first hard moves. http://www.flickr.com/photos/kandk/4117216050/in/photostream/

Amazing finger crack dividing the Disbelief Cave in two. Tricky easier start to shallow hueco below clean splitter (handy Z4#0.1 and bomber C4#4). From there, the angle is about 45-60deg and most of your body weight will be held up by 3 consecutive solid finger locks in some of the most outrageous moves with footwork at head height. Progress on good but shallow huecos to juggy section. Return to ceiling crack with several finger locks up to a fix wire at the end of the finger crack. Always dry and drizzle free. https://youtu.be/Wsu631XwrWU?si=GrCxwJvDCp9SW7Dq

The big time route of the quarry. First cleaned by Hill until he got bored with it and gave it to Ralph who finished the job. the climb was done over many weekends as the bumbling Ralph pushed the standards to the min. Apart from all this shit the climb is absolutely worthless and has the 'very' chopped look about it. if you want to fuck around for days trying to get up this mother then you're quite welcome to it, some of the locks are pretty sharp and there aren't many footholds on the whole climb so forget about good boots.

(1) The groove to the right of C. Climb the shallow groove on finger locks. As you would expect the runners are pretty tricky to get in and this will probably consume most of your time and flesh.

Some of the finest and most "out-there" arete climbing in the Blueys, with tonnes of exposure, and situated on one of the most sought-after bits of real estate around.

Access as for The Horror.

1. 15m (21) As for P1 of The Horror. This pitch can (and should) be linked into the next one (and was on the FA). 1 Bolt, 2 x #0.75, #1, #3, #4.

2. 25m (23) All trad! Up the face to gain hanging fused corner system, then sporty moves up linked corners, flakes and prows to semi-hanging belay on small ledge. #0.2, #0.3, #0.4, 2 x #1, 2 x #2, 2 x #3, 2 x #4, #5.

3. 32m (27) Hard, sustained, steep, scary. One of the best bits of arete climbing in the Blueys. Up the arete, though several rooflets, concluding with a wild finale to gain a cozy belay on a hanging prow. 8 Bolts, optional #0.5 near the top.

4. 35m (23) Very hard moves to gain the second bolt above the roof (its about gr21 if you pull up to the first bolt), then easier face climbing on gear to bolt near the top. Straight up the face from here, then -where it turns to dirt- truck right on obvious break (#2) to prow, and up this to anchor. 3 Bolts, Thread, #0.2/0.3, 2 x #0.75, 2 x #1, 3 x #2, 2 x #3, #4.

Frothy Thomson on the First Ascent of Darkest Congo

The name aptly describes the style of climbing at the quarry. Whilst cleaning this route Ferret was heard to mutter 'I don't like frigging climbs, I just do it out of habit.' This baby rears it's ugly bum with the major problem of not having any footholds where it counts, i.e. on the rock. Apart from that little drawback it's quite a good climb up a very thin finger crack, creeps with fat digits: better pound them down with a hammer or blow them off with explosives if they want to get up this unit.

(1) The next crack in the wall to the right of SS.

The most obvious line through an enormous arrow head shaped stain. Fantastic steep crack, fingers, hands, chicken wings, funky dropknees, karate kicks, few pockets and few good crimps and jugs. Stops where the rock quality deteriorates after obvious bulge in ceiling. Lower off.

First two pitches as for Siblings of the Sun. Then from the second belay go directly up to join a hand crack (rather than trending right and up from this belay, which is Siblings). From here continue up the soaring line of bolts with increasing difficulty, with the final 2 pitches tackling the orange headwall (5m L of Siblings' last 3 pitches).

1. 25m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.

2. 40m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 2.

3. -m (23)

4. -m (23)

5. -m (24)

6. 25m (25) The first 10m is a bit of a contrived squeeze onto Siblings, with rotten bolts and rock which was only ever spot cleaned.

7. 25m (27) Also great. The only headwall route which is on til the very top. Rebolted recently (2015), so until p6 is fixed its an excellent single pitch rap-in option. All bolts with 1 or 2 optional bits of trad.

Steve's contribution to trad climbing. A bit cruxy since a hold broke, but still well worthwhile. The crux is bolt protected. Take 2 or 3 #0.5 camalots, plus singles up to #3.

Great climbing on the wall just right of 'Olympus Mons'.

An outstanding, naturally protected line up the obvious weakness through right side of the cave. The first half was originally climbed by Greg Child (and co) at grade 23 to the small stance just before the angle begins to steepen dramatically. From this point things get pumpy and you will need to draw on your bouldering nous. After the business is over be prepared for a longer-than-expected head wall above.

The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

The steep crack, hard though well protected. A Blue Mountains gem. Take double cams from 0.4 Camalot (yellow Alien) to 3 Camalot as well as single set of nuts. Double ring lower-off

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

Classic test piece. Giles never really believed he could climb so hard. Start about 50m to the right after the waterfall. Still has some fragile rock; best to stick clip 1st bolt. Can be done only on the bolts, but a few cams are prudent (#1, 0.5/0.3, 3), as are rollers and extenders. 60m rope minimum.

A good trad pitch on perfect rock with ample protection and amazing movement.

Frees the old aid climb "Information".

1. Start up the off width corner, 'Oleo' and then traverse left along the finger crack that trends slightly downwards. Perfect gear all along the crack although hard to place on lead in many places so running out the cruxes is the way to go. Technical movement on bad feet and flaring, slopey finger locks along almost the whole route is the name of the game. Finish at the far left arête and do the second pitch from there.

2. From the far left arete, continue to follow the rising crack traverse to the far left of this wall and top out to the summit from there. Technical, balancey movement for the grade and good small cams for protection. Trad belays.

Up to first bolt, up.

Start: As for LL.

The bolts were bad 20 years ago!

Start: 12m right of RTT. cairn.

Water level needs to be fairly low. Fantastic juggy start then progressively harder through the face, a big dyno, then probably head left up the arete.

Up the boulder seam through a mini roof then classic and sustained steep wall climbing to a tricky finale.

Between 'Evolution Direct Finish' and 'The Other End of Evolution'. After freeing past the first three bolts on Evolution P7 take a long rest on the ledge, then head straight up past 9 more bolts.

Climb 5/6 of Haasnoot been done, then go across left and up staying on good clean rock. Long quick draw length required around the corner and for the last bolt runner of Haasnoot been done.

4m R of T. Warwick sent it. Giles sent it. Maybe they are qualified to edit description. A fine route likely to wound egos. Recently rebolted.

30mtr right of Maurice Road, stickclip first bolt, pull through large holds in roof onto wall. Huge moved on glorious steepenings

Starting at the top of the handline. Up and out through the monster roof. Fun!

Exposed and thin wall climbing, left of Oranges Poranges. From lookout as per OP to furthest anchors on ledge. Rap 55m (or twice with intermediate rappel station) to 3 bolt semi-hanging belay. If you fall from this belay, you will have 7 seconds to think about your mistake before hitting the ground. Validated with a rock-drop-test.

The awesome line to the left of Father Figure, starts under the roof and then climbs the orange wall to the right of the cave.

Blunt arete 4m to the right of BB&B.

Up project to 2nd bolt then right to scoops and arete.

Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor.

"Yes, the 5G I put in your Telstra pit gave you COVID."

Unrelenting!

Straight up slab left of the belay bolt. Boulder moves to turn the bulge, traverse left, then continue up the steep "slab" on inspiring white and grey rock, with surprisingly dynamic moves.

The first route to be bolted on this section of wall. Heads left after the 4th bolt and then up to a bouldery crux on the lip of the roof to gain the high corner/arete.

Wow - Mega line. The King line of the crag. Start as for Cougars. Follow it to the seam, traverse R and up to join 50SOMD at the nose and finish at its anchors for now.... Sustained junkyard awesomeness

The Coneheads of the south west.

You'll be proud you got up it. Not everyone's favourite! The leftmost route on this ledge directly up and left of the access rungs, starting in a steep crack feature.

Very hard wandery face-climbing above a sucking void. Spaced (but safe) bolts and insecure moves will keep you gripped the entire way.

If it all turns pear-shaped, you can either climb out via Freedom Ring (substantially easier climbing) or ascend the fixed abseil line (if you left it in situ as per below).

ACCESS: Walk down to start of Lunch Ledge, instead of going left towards Mirrorball, go right and cross the creek to cliffline with prominent arete (Pitch 5 of Damascus). Scramble along narrow vegetated ledge left of the arete. The first set of rings is the topout of Damascus (P4). Continue left to a small cave (above huge drop-off - take care). Crawl through cave and rack up at double rap rings with a smattering of old carrots near them. Fix 70m rope to bolts and rap off into the void (down the Abandoned Giles Project) - kick on the way down to stay in contact with the rock. About 30m down is an old set of FHs - best to clip one of them to stay connected to the rock. Eventually touch down on large ledge with a couple of small banksia trees. This ledge is big enough to walk around on without roping up.

Walk right along the ledge to a single ring belay, lead or self-belay across to the rings 3m further right (top belay of Damascus P1).

1. 15m (24) 7 bolts - From the belay at the end of Damascus Pitch 1, traverse right and up small right-facing flake with very bouldery moves at the start (consider pre-clipping the first 2 or 3 bolts!), then easy moves trending right to ledge belay.

2. 35m (28) 13 bolts - Up extremely sustained thin and dynamic face, with a long and very demanding crux to gain cruisy flake feature. Steel yourself for an easier but rather gripping finish. Semi-hanging belay.

3. 20m (22) 8 bolts - Step left off the belay, and traverse to join the end of Damascus P3 (be careful -no additional bolts). Link this into Damascus P4 to reach the top.

Start 5m R of the flake of Funky Gripsta. Stick clip & batman to start. Excellent bouldery moves most of the way, with possible heartbreak high and an inspired runout to finish.

If the long routes are a little too intimidating this dynamic classic is for you. Fun climbing and jumping between some good holds.

Dont be scared of jumping!

Link-up of the first half of Snout Counter and the top half of God's Gift to Wart Hogs at a moderate grade. Long pumper on mostly big holds with 3 little boulder problems.

Traverse across the brilliant white rock in an excellent position, crossing the bulge to a fine headwall. Extend the clip on the bolt before the steepness to avoid excessive drag.

Up detached block to traverse right up face, through largest section of roof to headwall. Very distinct boulder problem in roof. Lots of 60-80cm slings after block. A small chain assists clipping last bolt, then a hard move at top ,with namesake drag, to loweroffs. A 70mtr rope will just get you to the ground.

6m R. The cool-looking overhanging mini-corner-seam. Very bouldery and difficulty might be a bit height dependent? 6 FH’s to anchor. A grade or 2 harder now after broken holds **

Starting on far left of wall just right of handover rope. Boulder up under roof, reach through to big jug on arete. Bouldery sequence to ledge. Traverse left and up as it steepens into the technical crux. If that goes well, make your way up and left, navigating around the huge flake feature and final big move to top out. 10 bolts to lower off.

2 Beautiful arêtes separated by a short punchy haiku. The wall faces north east and is well protected on winter mornings, and gets afternoon shade in summer. Take 15 draws.

Rap 30m to a stance 10m below the ledge, then either 20m to belay #3 (hanging) or 30 to belay #2 (good ledge but leave slings to pull ropes). Rap 40m and left slightly to hanging stance at a small ledge on lip of choss. On all raps you must bounce to be able to reach anchors. Take prussics. If you're not cruising 27 arêtes, you might leave a rope or 2 fixed.

1. 40m (25) 40m Up wall and left to arete and up to cave (The Master's Ledge)

2. 8m (26) Around bulge to hanging belay (The waiting Room)

3. 35m (27) Out left over the sucking void (past a possible 2 ring belay for those who have bitten off more than they can masticate) and up the arete to ledge.

4. 20m (20) Over bulge and up

The longest and hardest of the link ups. Climb 'Cheerleader' to it's last bolt before the anchor it shares with 'Heaven Sent Honey', climb right past 2 bolts, cross 'Beautiful And Bald Like Barten' and climb the entire upper half of 'Dial M For Monkey' to its anchors.

Long, sustained, fun, pumpy and worth the effort to make it work.

Another ultra classic. Steep pumper with many quality boulder problems split by good rest jugs. A very unique crux.

Start up the first 4 bolts of LRNP and keep on heading up.

Clip the low belayer's bolt on the left so the leader doesn't get knackered by the rope when dogging the crux.

The pumper extension to Mr Magoo through the roof, the holds are good but the pump is mega.

The route is all too obvious - a bottomless chimney hanging over your head like gaping dinosaur jaws. A unique experience, not soon forgotten.

Start: In undercut steep blank roof with super bouldery moves to get the obvious pocket. Power through roof with balance to chains.

Great consumer climbing with plenty of good jugs and some thin, long pulls. The bolting is a bit spicy but safe.

An old Rabbit project.Start 6m right of Duke Nukem on the ledge left of Rodent. From ringbolt belay on ledge follow bolts up sustained wall to anchors under last little roof.

Diagonally right through slight cave and straight up (crux) to the second set of lower offs. Rebolted & Extension added 2004 - Wilde/Jefferson

Huge line of Permadraws heading out the roof.

The line 10m R which blasts straight up the guts of the steepness. U-bolt, then 6 FH’s up the 45 degree overhung wall to an incredible finish with one of the best holds I’ve ever seen on the finishing ledge. Classic.

Pouncy low roof, sloper crux, traverse left then cool hanging corner, arete and a baffling final move. 10 bolts to lower off.

Powerful, and weirdly technical roof thuggery. Very unique for the Blueys. Similar in difficulty to Force Cannon at The Pit. Maybe coolum 26?

So named because it's possible to deck from any of the first 4 bolts with an inattentive belayer.

A DF to expectorant or start up anticoagulant, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008)

A fun slab to half way followed by hard, technical, bouldery climbing directly up the middle of the steep headwall above. Great climbing, and a beautiful piece of rock.

A couple of notes...

• Take care of falls with a soft catch, you will possibly hit the ledge falling between the 1st and 2nd, or 2nd and 3rd bolts. A new bolt has been added between what was the 3rd and 4th bolts making this section nice and safe now.

• The grade will probably vary greatly with height, so take whatever seems right for you. If you're quite short, this will still be doable and super fun with creative beta, but expect a challenge.

Megan has sent this after a long term siege. 27/28? Still waiting for the name and grade.

Glow true! The long-awaited direct start to the "Funky Monkey Glow Linkup". A tough boulder problem to gain the pockets, grade needs confirming.

Superb technical and powerful climbing the whole way, requiring much more fitness than most Blue Mtns routes. The pumpy runout finish just adds to what is a truly memorable route.

Route to the right of the crack. Keep out of the crack!