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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 질 | |||
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일요일 29번째 9월 2019 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
North Wall - Main | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Bachelor - 누구와 One Day Hero | 130m, 13 | ★★ 아주좋음 | |||
Didn't re-climb P3 (shared with Right in the Bunghole). P1 is a pleasant ramble with a few tricky face-moves, but P2 is an awesome, old-school wandery slab-venture with spaced gear and bolts, and some improbably steep sections at the grade. Probably one of the better routes here for getting acquainted with the Gorge.
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수요일 30번째 8월 2017 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
South Wall - Main | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Evolution - 누구와 Stephen Varney | 220m, 55 | ★★★ 클래식 | |||
I finally got to do the 3 "classic" pitches on this route, and sure enough, they WERE bloody classic. P1-P3 - Repeat, Lead Clean (I've onsighted them previously when I climbed Aurora) - Very slabby. A Poxy start pitch, a very thin middle pitch, and a bold (but not as hard or as scary as I remember) finale pitch. Not as terrible as I remember; P4 - 2nd Clean - Probably the hardest bit of climbing on the route. I found this sustained, pumpy, technical and with terrible feet. Great!; P5 - Onsight - Great, sustained technical climbing up a vague corner-system. A proper classic. P6 - Onsight - Extremely juggy, steep-ish climbing on perfect rock. Very straightforward, but tonnes of fun in an exposed position. P7 - We chose to finish up the top (crux) pitch of Jumpmaster instead of the normal finish (which I ticked first go today placing all gear on lead).
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화요일 26번째 5월 2015 - Mt Gibraltar | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
20 21 | ★★ Modern Masculinity | 80m | ★★ 아주좋음 | |||
With Stephen. Onsight all pitches that I haven't led previously. Linked P2 and P3 to avoid the awkward trad belay. Very good climbing for ME (in a hideously awkward, funky Trad kind of way), but probably not everyone's cup of tea. P1 - Access slab as for Big Bird. P2 - Probably 21. Thrutchy and insecure corner crux. Rather goey. P3 - Easier than it looks exposed traversing up the finger crack. P4 - Very awkward and insecure, with seemingly illogical moves necessary. Hard to grade.
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일요일 24번째 5월 2015 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
North Wall - Main | ||||||
21 | ★ Arctic Cat | 25m | ★★ 아주좋음 | |||
Hard moves between the 1st and 2nd bolt, then getting progressively easier as you go. Enjoyable slabbing, and the rock isn't as sharp as its neighbours. Quite long.
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일요일 24번째 5월 2015 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
South Wall - Little Thai Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Gilding the Lily | 25m, 9 | ★★★ 클래식 | |||
One of the best easier-grade pitches of climbing I've ever done in Bungonia. Immaculate rock for the 1st half, then deteriorating afterwards. Fortunately the whole climb has consistently GREAT climbing with a huge variety of engaging moves. Thoroughly recommended.
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22 | ★★ A Tufa to Far | 25m | ★★ 아주좋음 | |||
Quite enjoyable. A lot of climbing and moves for a short climb. Funky (mud) tufas with a tricky last move. The rock quality is actually pretty reasonable for Bungonia. Might be soft-ish at the grade? Definitely worth a lap.
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금요일 22번째 5월 2015 - Wingello | ||||||
Gulp Road Candy & Supa Fun Happy Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Supa Fun Happy | 20m | ★★★ 클래식 | |||
One of the best "soft sandstone" routes of its type I've ever done... A shame that the rock deteriorates towards the top (and that it isn't longer). Didn't feel too hard for a 23. Awesomely polished compact slopers, that ALMOST climbs like a Taipan-esque "water groove" route, completely with stemming and rad body positions. Thoroughly enjoyable.
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금요일 22번째 8월 2014 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Central Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Thomas the Tank | 10m, 6 | ★ 좋음 | |||
Thought I'd done this before, maybe not? A one-sequence-wonder, though that particular sequence is quite enjoyable. Went direct and didn't find it too hard. Work those feet!
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일요일 19번째 1월 2014 - Cinderella Crag | ||||||
Pitt Street Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Wee Bean | 12m | ★★ 아주좋음 | |||
Technical and traddie. Probably not a good warm-up because it's so stance-friendly, but not bad for an easy short climb.
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일요일 19번째 1월 2014 - Cinderella Crag | ||||||
White Knight Wall | ||||||
22 | Mantle Mania (Mantle Mania - Mark Farrell) | 30m | 안하는 것이 좋음 | |||
This pox should never have been bolted. Dirty, loose, fragile rock, bolted to induce ledgefall potential, and unpleasant climbing from start to finish. I wouldn't wish this on my worst enemies. Both Gene and myself removed kilograms of loose rock as we climbed, and Gene almost decked out as a jug ripped while clipping the 2nd bolt. Atrocious.
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토요일 23번째 2월 2013 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
The First Cave | ||||||
21 | ★★ Bruised Poonarnee | 14m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | |||
Better than it looks, and a more worthwhile addition than I expected. Bouldery start to some funky laybacking and smearing. The rock was so slippery that twice my smear-footers exploded but somehow I kept it together.
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일요일 6번째 1월 2013 - Mt Gibraltar | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Anty Climb | 20m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | |||
Classic friction slabbing on GOOD rock. Would probably be a 19 at Tarana, but in reality 21/22 is probably more in line with modern grading. Sustained, technical and balancy. Genuinely pleasant to climb.
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일요일 8번째 7월 2012 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
20 | ★ Back to the Future | 8m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | |||
3 bolts then anchors? Blank, deathly vertical blade arete? Pretty good rock? Why hasn't this consumer bolted boulder had more ascents, I thought it was tenuous, smearing, arete slapping fun... For like 7 metres. Let's see some more traffic on it, people.
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토요일 30번째 6월 2012 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
The First Cave | ||||||
20 | ★★ Galvanise | 10m, 5 | ★★ 아주좋음 | |||
Fun jugging, with one hard-ish reachy move. About right for the grade, though without any distinctly grade 20 moves. Will make a good warm up for the cave, next time.
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토요일 30번째 6월 2012 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall | ||||||
18 20 | ★★ Corner from Heaven (Courner From Heaven) | 20m, 7 | ★ 좋음 | |||
Awesome moves on lower 2/3rds. The dubious rock towards the top spoils the experience a bit. Not hard for the grade.
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일요일 20번째 5월 2012 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Vox Populi Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Vox Populi | 15m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | |||
Very different climbing to everything else on this wall. The wire placements are a bit fiddly, but pretty good. For the grade this is interesting and a bit technical. Worth a lap.
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20 | ★★ Three and a Half Thousand | 16m, 7 | ★ 좋음 | |||
Run-out on the easy ground. It's quite hard (and a bit contrived) to stay on the direct line of this climb. I climbed the line religiously and ended up in some pretty weird positions. Okay climbing, but there are better climbs here.
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