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The Fear Factory
Excellent bouldering destination with a reputation for highballs with sketchy landings. In reality, there's a lot of safer stuff here too, including a few Sydney classics. Useful Info: Please avoid excessive erosion of the access routes and the base of the walls. You don't want the top outs to get any higher, surely? Information largely drawn from Peter Balint's excellent 'Sydney Bouldering' guide. Buy one if you don't have one! |
The Courtyard
Top spot for a first visit, catches morning sun and contains a number of crag classics, mostly on slabs and slabby aretes |
The Courtyard |
V11
★★★ Where The Wild Things Are
Start under the roof over the pit of death and head toward the lip. Crux on the face and up high and left to finish. Spotter and pads are advisable. |
V0 R
★ Crocodile Crocodile May I Cross Your Golden River
Rightmost line on this boulder, off the mossy slab and up the short wall |
V3 R
★★ Flick Footy
well right of TZ, follow slopey breaks up to the summit ridge above a dodgy landing |
V3 R
★★★ The Twilight Zone
Delicately straight upwards to the finish of 'The Trance' |
V4 R
★★ The Trance
To the right of 'Frankenstein' is a big highball slab. 'The Trance' follows a rightward-leaning faint seam to the top |
★ Project
Slab project mentioned in the guide. Plumb line to the peak of the boulder. Done on top rope by Pete Balint but never without. |
V4 R
★★ When Snail's Attack
Climb under the peak to about three quarter boulder height, run out of feet and bail to the arete. |
V0
★★ Frankenstein
That's what we're here for! Megaclassic curving arete, as good as any and at a reasonable grade too. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder. |
V0-
★ The Exorcist
The 'Frankenstein' arete taken on the left-hand side. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder. |
V0
Vibes
Slabby top wall of the 'Frankenstein' boulder. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder. |
V10
Project Runway
Wall left of Golden Showers. Big jump off of rubbish crimps. Connor Lucas |
V2
★ Golden Showers
Obvious square-cut corner, curving at the top. Either a great problem, or a bag, depending on your point of view |
V5
★★ Elm Street
Cranky wall immediately right, rated. |
V3
★★ Blunt Instrument
The arete right of 'Elm Street' |
V5
★ A Sharp Knife In The Back
Climb the wall right of Blunt Instrument using the arete, topping out to the right. |
V0
★ Edward Scissorhands
Easy arete and a good intro, climbed on the right all the way up. |
V2
★ Sounds of Seduction
Marvellous slab climbing to the right. Start at the small boulder and go straight up. |
V5
★★★ Disco Inferno
Tough slab to the right, underneath the tree |
V5
★★ Cowboy Beebop
Stand start and up the wall between Disco Inferno and Rocksteady Teddy. |
V5
★★★ Rocksteady Teddy
To the right is a faint seam. smear on up left of this. |
V5
★★★ Unsteady Freddy
Subtle line 1m R of Rocksteady Teddy |
V2
★ Big Ted
Lovely slab. |
V2
★★ Jemima
To the right, get established in the big pocket then run for the top |
V2
Sesame Street
a metre of two right, up a couple of moves then left via slopey ramp to finish up 'Jemima' |
V0
Grover
Straight up from the start of 'Sesame Street' |
V3 R
★★ Poltergeist
low start on the arete, scary finish |
V4 R
Doppelganger
Left of 'Poltergeist', start in the corner, go up and leftish |
V0
★ Boulder 1
Stand start up slab |
The Acrachronisms
Scared witless from highballs with sketchy topouts? Sick of the old sandpaper slab-slide? Binged on mingy crimps and bleeding fingies? Exhausted by endless compression sessions? Look no further, for here in the very center of The Factory is a place you can practise a new form of purgatory: simultaneously shredding both side of both hands while dangling like a demented bat from splitter cracks. Yes it's The Acrachronisms, three searing splitters, with or without finger-locking, flares and extended ceiling section. |
The Acrachronisms |
Acrachronism 1
Undercut crack, impossible to avoid the tree topping out. |
28
★★★ Margins of the Mind
Middle crack - turn the lip then to top, mantle to finish. |
★★★ Acrachronism 3
A full 4.5m of mostly thin ceiling crack, flared turn, and a couple of jams to finish. Even has some roof holds and pockets. |
The Whiteboard
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
The Whiteboard |
V2
★ Jumping Smurf
Jump to the top of the arete and over. |
V1
★ Funky
Up left of the corner. |
V0
★ Lounge
The centre. |
V1
Tunes
Just right of the arete. |
V4
★★ Dust Monitor
Stand start on the arete and climb it on its left side. |
V12
Blackboard
Stand start, up on slopey pockets to top. Very friction dependent. |
V10
Nails on the Board
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V10
★★ The Whiteboard Affair
From the very thin orange break, make a tricky and technical jump start, then take on the powerful and slopey top. V8 from Pete, V10 from Sharik Walker... |
V6
★★ Permanent Marker
A powerful, continuous sloping arete. Sit start, then slap up the left leaning arete. |
V6
Sports Rorts
A nice line, a big jump and a tough top. |
Agostino's Corner Store
Variety, Variety, Variety. Mostly friendly too. |
Agostino's Corner Store |
V1
★ Boulder 2
Up small arete |
V1
★ One Stop Shop
Short slab just around the left of Plastic Strips. Nice 2 mover |
V1
★ Plastic Strips
The entrance to the store. Good climbing up the buttress. |
V2
★ Drumstick
Start off the low broken jug. |
V1
★ Leg of Ham
Hands free balancey fun up the slab. |
V5
★★★ Liquorice Arete
Sit down then slap your way up the overhanging slopey nose. Powerful and sustained to what some consider a tough mantle. |
V1
★ Monte
A cute little arete with a dynamic start and a physical finish. The wall on the right side of the crack is off. |
V3
★★★ The Full Monte
This time establish yourself completely on the arete before moving up. |
V0
Crusty Bread Rolls
A fun short problem up the juggy arete, start low for even better value. |
V1
Trolley Boy
The faint arete, starting on its left. |
V2
Full of Fruit
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V2
Sour Cherry
Up just left of the arete. |
V0
Cracked Pepper
The little arete on good holds. |
V1
Matty's Little Masterpiece
From the low break, crank up just right of the arete. |
V1
F.M.C.D.s
Follow the committing ramp rightwards to the top. Bad landing. |
V0+
Sherbert
Surprisingly good and continuous climbing up the steep little buttress. |
The Golden Wall
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
The Golden Wall |
V3
Fool's Gold
A very weird almost classic. The series of good deep, but always moist, pockets have a completely unannounced tendency to send you flying backwards into the conveniently located spotting tree. |
V5
★★★ Solid Gold Disco Dancer
The twin pocketed seams offer sustained, classy and committing climbing. |
The Slabs
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
The Slabs |
E5 6a
★★★ Arc De Triomphe
Climb the fantastic overhung arc up the slab. Just enough holds to be climbable. Serious unprotected climbing at an unreasonable height. One of the best lines in Sydney. |
V0
Knockin' Off Orchids
Geographically the first problem at the Factory and a real trouser filler it is too. Start in the corner, move up and right then committingly follow the seam to the top. Very bad landing. |
Oddball Buttress
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
Oddball Buttress |
V0
Cummingtonite
Off the break and up. Forgettable. |
V2
The Art of Mixing Drinks
From the low right facing flake, move left and up. Thin and committing. Bad landing. |
V4
The Phantom Dancer
Potentially a horrendous landing. |
V1
★★ Sunshine Crack
Not as relaxing as a Caribbean cruise, but don't be afraid there's no jamming here mon. There is a fair bit of exposure though. Bad landing |
V3
★★★ Back to Funk
Get down and get groovy, this old skool classic has got some funking moves above a bad ass landing. |
V5
★★★ 2000 Light Years From Home
Start in the little cave and then (hopefully) float up the balancey, technical and stunning arete. Trend right to top, not left via the decent rail. Landing? Probably very messily on the track way down below - don't find out! |
V2
★★ Dead Line
The left side of the front of the buttress. Committing and airy. What landing? |
V0
Marmaduke
Big, tall, hairy and beautiful. Up the right side of the arete. Don't fall. |
V0
★★ Ink Pink You Stink
Start as for Marmaduke, then follow the big footholds and the hillside up and left around the arete to a distinct crux. |
V4
Oddity
Short and tough stuff off the layaway in the gully. |
V2
Monday Night Metal
Stay on the right of the arete. Goey. |
No Man's Land
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
No Man's Land |
V3
★★ Sounds on Sunday
Cruise your way up the right side of this little arete. Take care, the large block and the tough top has already sent one victim halfway down the hill. |
V1
Unrelated Entity
Bear hug the buttress. Sandy and a tough top. |
V2
★ Boulder 3
Sit start far down left and make way diagonally up rightwards. |
V5
★★★ Thai Panic
Tasty! A great line up the dark wall. Crimpy, cranky and very committing. Horrendous landing. |
V1
Prancing Pony
A nice little trot up an airy buttress. Not a great landing. |
V0
Builder's Crack
The corner crack. |
V2
Ken's Arete
Scramble then tackle the totally committing arete on its right side. |
V3
★ Raspberry Jelly
Stand on the ledge, take a deep breath and climb the short face using the right arete. Totally committing, bad landing. |
V0
★★ Glitter Beach Barbie
An ideal Factory intro. Up the right side of the arete on good holds, mantle left to finish. |
V1
★ Rich Vein
Up the thin seam staying away from the crack. Much better than it looks. |
V2
Vain
Stand on the ledge, then commit to the short crimpy slab staying left of Rich Vein. |
Lindfield Lusho Wall
Vertical, with comparatively friendly landings |
Lindfield Lusho Wall |
V0
The Geek
From the bottom of the flake, straight up. |
V3
★★ Super Fly
Excellent funky arete-ing. Get down and do it! |
V2
★★ Eligible Bachelor
A beautiful problem up the right side of the wall. |
V2
★★ Lindfield Lusho
Classic Factory wall climb. |
V5
★★ 000 Emergency
Check your insurance policy and have the phone at hand, then scramble up (too high) and procrastinate over the short committing crux. The narrow buttress between the crack and the arete. Nail biting excellence with a horrendous landing. |
V0
Cracked
The corner. |
V3
Biscuit Spit
A very committing crimpy narrow line just left of Cracked. |